Sorry to bring up and old, old subject, but what do most of you
use to glue up case goods or furniture? My personal favorite was
Elmer's yellow carpenter glue and I keep a bottle of it in my
present, tiny, workshop. I liked the strength, open time,
reasonable moisture resistance and the fact that after clamping, a
damp rag would clean up squeeze-out so the wood would still take
stain. (It also was "scrapable" and could be popped off after
drying.) There's probably little difference between Elmer's and
Tightbond, but I just got used to buying Elmer's in the gallon
bottle and refilling my little dispensers with it.

I've also used Gorilla glue here on some melamine board shelving
and it's not too bad. I don't care for getting it off my fingers,
though.

--
Nonny

What does it mean when drool runs
out of both sides of a drunken
Congressman's mouth?

The floor is level.

"Nonny" wrote in message
...
Sorry to bring up and old, old subject, but what do most of you use to
glue up case goods or furniture? My personal favorite was Elmer's yellow
carpenter glue and I keep a bottle of it in my present, tiny, workshop. I
liked the strength, open time, reasonable moisture resistance and the fact
that after clamping, a damp rag would clean up squeeze-out so the wood
would still take stain. (It also was "scrapable" and could be popped off
after drying.) There's probably little difference between Elmer's and
Tightbond, but I just got used to buying Elmer's in the gallon bottle and
refilling my little dispensers with it.

I've also used Gorilla glue here on some melamine board shelving and it's
not too bad. I don't care for getting it off my fingers, though.


I have use many types of wood glue through the years and because all modern
glues are pretty much going to do exactly what you want I make my choice as
to the color the glue will be when cured.

Yellow glue if I don't care what the joint will look like or will be
painting over.

"White" Gorilla glue, not polyurethane, for light colored woods as this glue
dries clear.

TBIII for medium to darker woods, it dries to a dark brown color.

On 12/03/2009 12:22 PM, Nonny wrote:
Sorry to bring up and old, old subject, but what do most of you
use to glue up case goods or furniture?

For basic shop stuff, sheet goods, and panel glue-ups, yellow glue. If
consideration is made for expansion, panels almost never come apart, and
if they do it's easy to clean up the glue line and glue it back
together. I like the LV glue, but TBIII is good as well. Both of them
will work at fairly low temperatures, important up here in the winter.

For joints on "good" pieces that might need to be repaired sometime down
the line, liquid hide glue or epoxy. Both of them are repairable in
ways that yellow glue isn't. Epoxy can also have a longer open time,
and fills gaps structurally, which hardly any other glue does.

I'd like to try plastic resin glue, but in the winter I'd have to use a
heat blanket to keep it warm enough to cure.

I've used Roo Glue on melamine. Worked reasonably well.

Chris

Leon wrote:
"Nonny" wrote in message
...
Sorry to bring up and old, old subject, but what do most of you use to
glue up case goods or furniture? My personal favorite was Elmer's yellow
carpenter glue and I keep a bottle of it in my present, tiny, workshop. I
liked the strength, open time, reasonable moisture resistance and the fact
that after clamping, a damp rag would clean up squeeze-out so the wood
would still take stain. (It also was "scrapable" and could be popped off
after drying.) There's probably little difference between Elmer's and
Tightbond, but I just got used to buying Elmer's in the gallon bottle and
refilling my little dispensers with it.

I've also used Gorilla glue here on some melamine board shelving and it's
not too bad. I don't care for getting it off my fingers, though.


I have use many types of wood glue through the years and because all modern
glues are pretty much going to do exactly what you want I make my choice as
to the color the glue will be when cured.

Yellow glue if I don't care what the joint will look like or will be
painting over.

"White" Gorilla glue, not polyurethane, for light colored woods as this glue
dries clear.

TBIII for medium to darker woods, it dries to a dark brown color.





If you use Gorilla Glue for biscuits joints is there a problem with the
wood splitting from the expansion of the glue.

I am using 1 X 2 material.

Keith Nuttle wrote:
....

If you use Gorilla Glue for biscuits joints is there a problem with the
wood splitting from the expansion of the glue.
....

If you mean that foaming polyurethane crap, I'd not use it for anything
of the sort.

It has some very minimal uses where need the water resistance but it's
not worth beans for anything else. Tests show the polyurethanes aren't
as strong as the yellow glues so the "gorilla" stuff is just
marketing...add to the foaming the cleanup and all and there's just no
place for it other than really specific uses...

Ask, and I'll tell ya' what I _really_ think about it...

$0.02, etc., etc., etc., ...

--

Subject

TBII for typical wood working joints.

Epoxy for long open time joints or where gap filling is required.

Gorilla glue is the most overpriced under peckered product on the
planet IMHO.

Totally worthless.

HTH

Lew

"Keith Nuttle" wrote in message
...

I have use many types of wood glue through the years and because all
modern glues are pretty much going to do exactly what you want I make my
choice as to the color the glue will be when cured.

Yellow glue if I don't care what the joint will look like or will be
painting over.

"White" Gorilla glue, not polyurethane, for light colored woods as this
glue dries clear.

TBIII for medium to darker woods, it dries to a dark brown color.




If you use Gorilla Glue for biscuits joints is there a problem with the
wood splitting from the expansion of the glue.

I am using 1 X 2 material.


You need to be more specific as which Gorilla Glue you are talking about.
However if you are talking about the polyurethane glue I seriousely doubt
you would see a problem regardless if its application. If it expanded so
much to split wood it seems to reason it would push joints apart also. I
don't think it is going to happen. This is not an expanding foam sealer
that you commonly see around windows and door jams.

However the white glue or regular wood glues would be a better choice.
Biscuits work by expanding when they absorbe moisture from the glue.
Typically the polyurethane glue uses moisture to cure, the glue itself
probably will not cause a biscuit to properly expand.

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
Subject

TBII for typical wood working joints.

Epoxy for long open time joints or where gap filling is required.

Gorilla glue is the most overpriced under peckered product on the planet
IMHO.

Totally worthless.


Have you ever use the Gorilla "WHITE" glue? I find it pretty good and works
exactly like the typical TB water based wood glue. IIRC cheaper than TBIII.

On Thu, 3 Dec 2009 10:22:29 -0800, "Nonny" wrote:

Sorry to bring up and old, old subject, but what do most of you
use to glue up case goods or furniture? My personal favorite was
Elmer's yellow carpenter glue and I keep a bottle of it in my
present, tiny, workshop. I liked the strength, open time,
reasonable moisture resistance and the fact that after clamping, a
damp rag would clean up squeeze-out so the wood would still take
stain. (It also was "scrapable" and could be popped off after
drying.) There's probably little difference between Elmer's and
Tightbond, but I just got used to buying Elmer's in the gallon
bottle and refilling my little dispensers with it.

I've also used Gorilla glue here on some melamine board shelving
and it's not too bad. I don't care for getting it off my fingers,
though.


I've been buying Elmer's Woodworking glue for over 30 years--it does
the job. A gallon lasts me about 10-20 months. Over the years I can
now judge how much glue to apply with very little squeeze-out.

"Leon" wrote:

Have you ever use the Gorilla "WHITE" glue?

No.

I find it pretty good and works exactly like the typical TB water
based wood glue. IIRC cheaper than TBIII.

Haven't used TBIII either.

Around here, if TBII doesn't do the job, it's time for epoxy.

Lew

Nonny wrote:
Sorry to bring up and old, old subject, but what do most of you use to
glue up case goods or furniture? My personal favorite was Elmer's
yellow carpenter glue and I keep a bottle of it in my present, tiny,
workshop. I liked the strength, open time, reasonable moisture
resistance and the fact that after clamping, a damp rag would clean up
squeeze-out so the wood would still take stain. (It also was
"scrapable" and could be popped off after drying.) There's probably
little difference between Elmer's and Tightbond, but I just got used to
buying Elmer's in the gallon bottle and refilling my little dispensers
with it.

I've also used Gorilla glue here on some melamine board shelving and
it's not too bad. I don't care for getting it off my fingers, though.

Titebond I or II until it gets too cold in the garage, or I need better
water resistance, then Titebond III. Epoxy for gap- or hole-filling.
Haven't tried hide glue yet, but I will, because it's reversible and
repairable.

In article , sails.man1
@verizon.net says...

Subject

TBII for typical wood working joints.

Epoxy for long open time joints or where gap filling is required.

Gorilla glue is the most overpriced under peckered product on the
planet IMHO.

Totally worthless.

HTH

Lew

NB: I do not live in North America, so things may be different here.

First time I came across 'gorilla glue' it was that red foaming stuff
sold in squeeze bottles. And yes, I agree: totally useless crap. The few
times I used it the joints just popped after a period of time.

On the other hand, there's the white/clear 'gorilla grip' that is sold
in cartidges suitable for caulking guns. This stuff does hardly foam so
long as you don't use it on wet wood. And it holds very very well
indeed. Seems like another animal entirely. Have to anticipate problems
with creep during glue up - it can be as slippery as axle grease. Also
it doesn't wash off the fingers like white glue and you have to use a
spreader rather than a stiff brush - otherwise I'd use it a lot more
than I do.
But it's a superior product, and I prefer it for any kind of kitchen
table/benchtop/chopping board that gets wet or even hot&wet regularly,
since I have difficulty finding aerolite308 these days.

f.w.i.w. -P.

On 12/03/2009 01:52 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Gorilla glue is the most overpriced under peckered product on the
planet IMHO.

Totally worthless.

In general, liquid polyurethane glues (like Gorilla glue) want a very
tight fit (it's not gap filling at all) and sufficient humidity.

On the plus side, it is water resistant, has a longer open time than PVA
can glue different materials together, and doesn't need the mixing that
epoxy does.

Chris

On Dec 3, 5:55*pm, Chris Friesen wrote:
On 12/03/2009 01:52 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Gorilla glue is the most overpriced under peckered product on the
planet IMHO.

Totally worthless.

In general, liquid polyurethane glues (like Gorilla glue) want a very
tight fit (it's not gap filling at all) and sufficient humidity.

On the plus side, it is water resistant, has a longer open time than PVA
can glue different materials together, and doesn't need the mixing that
epoxy does.

Chris


If one uses a fair bit of epoxy, the MixPac dispensers are pretty easy
to use. A fresh tip, a whole variety of viscosities and set-up times.
The smaller types are most economical for the lower quantity user.
Larger systems cost a lot to start off with, but the price per ml goes
down. The 50 ml guns are ideal.

http://www.adhesivepackaging.com/ima...mp_mxp-50t.jpg

Peter Huebner wrote:
....

NB: I do not live in North America, so things may be different here.

Think??? vbg

First time I came across 'gorilla glue' it was that red foaming stuff
sold in squeeze bottles. And yes, I agree: totally useless crap. The few
times I used it the joints just popped after a period of time.

On the other hand, there's the white/clear 'gorilla grip' that is sold
in cartidges suitable for caulking guns. This stuff does hardly foam so
long as you don't use it on wet wood. And it holds very very well
indeed. Seems like another animal entirely. Have to anticipate problems
with creep during glue up - it can be as slippery as axle grease. Also
it doesn't wash off the fingers like white glue and you have to use a
spreader rather than a stiff brush - otherwise I'd use it a lot more
than I do.
But it's a superior product, and I prefer it for any kind of kitchen
table/benchtop/chopping board that gets wet or even hot&wet regularly,
since I have difficulty finding aerolite308 these days.

The gorilla US web site doesn't seem to show that--I'd not realized they
had even introduced a wood glue but in looking it appears it's a white
PVA glue that meets ANSI Type I/II tests for water resistance (a la
Titebond II and III) which not any other white PVA does afaik.

A quick search didn't find an online price for it except for another
quick-set version of the same glue in 2-oz bottles that seemed pretty
pricey and not particularly useful for general woodworking.

They didn't have a lot of technical details concerning it; in particular
I looked but saw no mention of the chalk temperature for comparison.

But, as a PVA glue, it certainly would not have the dastardly foaming
characteristics of the polyurethanes nor the cleanup hassles. Oh, it
did have a pretty short clamp time w/ a 5-10 min open time.

--

"Nonny" wrote in message
...
Sorry to bring up and old, old subject, but what do most of you use to
glue up case goods or furniture?

My favorite is Lee Valley 2002 GF. Flows nice, clean up easily. If I need a
waterproof, I use TB III.

Titebond III for most glue ups; Plastic resin glue for complicated glue-ups
needing longer open time; Epoxy (West system 105/207) for bent laminations
and veneer glue ups; Contact cement for attaching plastic laminate to
substrate; Roo glue when smooth surfaces like melamine are involved.

"Nonny" wrote in message
...
Sorry to bring up and old, old subject, but what do most of you use to
glue up case goods or furniture? My personal favorite was Elmer's yellow
carpenter glue and I keep a bottle of it in my present, tiny, workshop. I
liked the strength, open time, reasonable moisture resistance and the fact
that after clamping, a damp rag would clean up squeeze-out so the wood
would still take stain. (It also was "scrapable" and could be popped off
after drying.) There's probably little difference between Elmer's and
Tightbond, but I just got used to buying Elmer's in the gallon bottle and
refilling my little dispensers with it.

I've also used Gorilla glue here on some melamine board shelving and it's
not too bad. I don't care for getting it off my fingers, though.

--
Nonny

What does it mean when drool runs
out of both sides of a drunken
Congressman's mouth?

The floor is level.

In article ,
says...

A quick search didn't find an online price for it except for another
quick-set version of the same glue in 2-oz bottles that seemed pretty
pricey and not particularly useful for general woodworking.

They didn't have a lot of technical details concerning it; in particular
I looked but saw no mention of the chalk temperature for comparison.

But, as a PVA glue, it certainly would not have the dastardly foaming
characteristics of the polyurethanes nor the cleanup hassles. Oh, it
did have a pretty short clamp time w/ a 5-10 min open time.

The Gorilla Grip I was writing about is not a white/pva/aliphatic type
glue, it's a polyurethane based one.

http://www.holdfast.co.nz/pages/prod...id=20075&psid=
20075

It's sold as a construction glue, 2 hour cure, will stick to wood,
treated timber, concrete,wallboard, mdf, formica, brick, polystyrene ...
but not polyethylene or polypropylene.

Incidentally, the working temperature range given is impressive: -30 to
+100 Celsius.

I'd be surprised if it's not sold in the us/ca area, but maybe under a
different product name - however: this stuff has the gorilla glue logo
all over it, and it's infinitely superior to the red foamy 'gorilla
glue'.

-P.

"dpb" wrote in message
...
Peter Huebner wrote:
Snip


A quick search didn't find an online price for it except for another
quick-set version of the same glue in 2-oz bottles that seemed pretty
pricey and not particularly useful for general woodworking.


Any glue in a 2 oz configuration is going to be pricey. I have been buying
Gorilla Glue White for a couple of years now.

Home Depot sells The White Gorilla Glue in 18oz containers for $5.97. I
would call that pretty cheap.



http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...4X-_-100662003

Peter Huebner wrote:
....
The Gorilla Grip I was writing about is not a white/pva/aliphatic type
glue, it's a polyurethane based one.

....

I'd be surprised if it's not sold in the us/ca area, but maybe under a
different product name - however: this stuff has the gorilla glue logo
all over it, and it's infinitely superior to the red foamy 'gorilla
glue'.

Interesting -- there's no hint of such a product on the US Gorilla glue
site--they have only four glue products listed -- the red foamy crap, an
epoxy, a cyano-superglue and the aforementioned white pva wood glue.

--

Leon wrote:
....

Any glue in a 2 oz configuration is going to be pricey. ...

My point...I didn't see anything else show up in a (very) quick google
just to try to satisfy my curiosity...

Home Depot sells The White Gorilla Glue in 18oz containers for $5.97. I
would call that pretty cheap.

About what Titebond I/II are, indeed, and less than III...

No HD or other big boxes here; have not seen it at the local building
supply where they keep the original stuff on the checkout counters...the
ads do seem to work...


--

"Leon" wrote:
Home Depot sells The White Gorilla Glue in 18oz containers for
$5.97. I would call that pretty cheap.

Not compared to TBII at about $20/gal.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote:
Home Depot sells The White Gorilla Glue in 18oz containers for $5.97. I
would call that pretty cheap.

Not compared to TBII at about $20/gal.



Geez Lew. much cheaper in the 55 gallon drum compared to the TBII at about
$20. ;~)

"dpb" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
...

Any glue in a 2 oz configuration is going to be pricey. ...

My point...I didn't see anything else show up in a (very) quick google
just to try to satisfy my curiosity...

Home Depot sells The White Gorilla Glue in 18oz containers for $5.97. I
would call that pretty cheap.

About what Titebond I/II are, indeed, and less than III...

No HD or other big boxes here; have not seen it at the local building
supply where they keep the original stuff on the checkout counters...the
ads do seem to work...


Where is here, can yo order on line? Rockler, and HD will ship.

I see that Walmart has it also, in Houston.

"Leon" wrote:

Geez Lew. much cheaper in the 55 gallon drum compared to the TBII
at about $20. ;~)

I reserve 55 gallon drums for my epoxy base resin.

Lew

Leon wrote:
....

Where is here, can yo order on line? Rockler, and HD will ship.

Far SW KS. Could, is it really sufficiently better than TB II/III to
make paying shipping worth it since can get them both in whatever
quantity container desired (at least up to 5 gal pails) locally?

I see that Walmart has it also, in Houston.

That's worse than dealing w/ HD!!! Do have one o' them; I avoid it
as much as possible altho occasionally it becomes about the only place
for some things (not generally hardware-related, though). They're
surely the pits for what they do overall to product availability/choice
in small towns (to throw in the obligatory editorial comment...).

Anyway, would you feel deprived to give up Gorilla white pva in favor of
TB and if so, why? Perhaps I'd throw a a container in another mail
order next time something comes up if were. The ANSI I/II
water-resistance together is some advantage I can see in the
architectural work where I typically use TB III now. Wish I did know
the chalk temperature as that often seems to be an issue come fall or
early spring which is when often either trying to beat real winter or
get jump before field work really hits in spring.

I'm off doing the barn roof/repaint as the major project to fill-in work
when there's a break as did get the new roof on and the whole thing at
least primed. Still most of the doors need redone, all the windows need
built or rebuilt for the ones that still have a window in the opening,
the haymow floor, ... Probably still be at it when I'm 80 at the rate
it gets attention now...

--

"dpb" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
...

Where is here, can yo order on line? Rockler, and HD will ship.

Far SW KS. Could, is it really sufficiently better than TB II/III to make
paying shipping worth it since can get them both in whatever quantity
container desired (at least up to 5 gal pails) locally?


to answer that question, I don't know as foar as what you consider to be
better. If you saw what I mentioned in an earlier post, most all of the
yellow, white, and tan glues work well enough. I prefer to use the Gorilla
white on lighter woods and the joint line is less apparent, it dries clear.
I prefer the TBIII for oak and darkers woods, it dries dark brown. and I
prefer yellow glue when I don't care either way what the joint looks like.

Typically however I do care what the joint looks like.


I see that Walmart has it also, in Houston.

That's worse than dealing w/ HD!!! Do have one o' them; I avoid it
as much as possible altho occasionally it becomes about the only place for
some things (not generally hardware-related, though). They're surely the
pits for what they do overall to product availability/choice in small
towns (to throw in the obligatory editorial comment...).

I know! LOL.


Anyway, would you feel deprived to give up Gorilla white pva in favor of
TB and if so, why?

Absolutely not except for the reason mentioned above. Cured color is whay I
choose one over the other.



Perhaps I'd throw a a container in another mail
order next time something comes up if were. The ANSI I/II
water-resistance together is some advantage I can see in the architectural
work where I typically use TB III now.

Typically because I mostly work with oak and darker woods I use the TB III
more often too.


Wish I did know
the chalk temperature as that often seems to be an issue come fall or
early spring which is when often either trying to beat real winter or get
jump before field work really hits in spring.

I bet an e-mail to Gorillaglue.com would answer your questions.



I'm off doing the barn roof/repaint as the major project to fill-in work
when there's a break as did get the new roof on and the whole thing at
least primed. Still most of the doors need redone, all the windows need
built or rebuilt for the ones that still have a window in the opening, the
haymow floor, ... Probably still be at it when I'm 80 at the rate it gets
attention now...

Have fun!

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote:

Geez Lew. much cheaper in the 55 gallon drum compared to the TBII at
about $20. ;~)

I reserve 55 gallon drums for my epoxy base resin.

Lew

;~)

Leon wrote:
....

Anyway, would you feel deprived to give up Gorilla white pva in favor of
TB and if so, why?

Absolutely not except for the reason mentioned above. Cured color is whay I
choose one over the other.

....

That answers the question fully ... the performance is essentially the
same afay(ou're)c(oncerned/care) other than aesthetics. In that case,
I'll probably just stick w/ TB; could see a change only if it had some
additional advantages such as tack or much quicker clamp time, etc.

In general, I find the glue line thin enough it isn't obvious enough in
a finished piece to matter what the glue color itself was, but I don't
use much really light wood in glueups where it would be terribly noticeable.

Wish I did know
the chalk temperature as that often seems to be an issue come fall or
early spring which is when often either trying to beat real winter or get
jump before field work really hits in spring.

I bet an e-mail to Gorillaglue.com would answer your questions.

Probably -- doubt it could be enough lower than TB III given it's a PVA
that it would matter, though.

Thanks, was the answer was looking for...

--

On Thu, 3 Dec 2009 11:52:28 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
scrawled the following:

Subject

TBII for typical wood working joints.

Epoxy for long open time joints or where gap filling is required.

Gorilla glue is the most overpriced under peckered product on the
planet IMHO.

Totally worthless.

So, the list lengthens. We have Searz (Crapsman tools), Thompson
(Water Seal), Wagner (paint tools), Feit (compact fluorescent bulbs),
and now Gorilla (glue) as companies whose marketing departments
apparently outstrip their manufacturing prowess by several hundred
percent, eh?

--
Follow the path of the unsafe, independent thinker. Expose your ideas
to the dangers of controversy. Speak your mind and fear less the label
of 'crackpot' than the stigma of conformity. And on issues that seem
important to you, stand up and be counted at any cost.
-- Thomas J. Watson

On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 13:24:37 -0800, Lew Hodgett wrote:


Haven't used TBIII either.

Around here, if TBII doesn't do the job, it's time for epoxy.

I sometimes use III where II would do because of its longer open time and
because it doesn't run as much.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 19:59:12 -0800, Jim Hall wrote:

Titebond III for most glue ups; Plastic resin glue for complicated
glue-ups needing longer open time; Epoxy (West system 105/207) for bent
laminations and veneer glue ups; Contact cement for attaching plastic
laminate to substrate; Roo glue when smooth surfaces like melamine are
involved.

Epoxy for veneer? That's new to me. Please elaborate.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

I've become addicted to this stuff:
http://www.titebond.com/WNTBIIFluorescent.asp

Nothing worse than getting to the stain stage and finding a
problem. This stuff takes out all the guess work.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Nonny" wrote in message
...
Sorry to bring up and old, old subject, but what do most of you
use to glue up case goods or furniture? My personal favorite
was Elmer's yellow carpenter glue and I keep a bottle of it in
my present, tiny, workshop. I liked the strength, open time,
reasonable moisture resistance and the fact that after clamping,
a damp rag would clean up squeeze-out so the wood would still
take stain. (It also was "scrapable" and could be popped off
after drying.) There's probably little difference between
Elmer's and Tightbond, but I just got used to buying Elmer's in
the gallon bottle and refilling my little dispensers with it.

I've also used Gorilla glue here on some melamine board shelving
and it's not too bad. I don't care for getting it off my
fingers, though.

--
Nonny

What does it mean when drool runs
out of both sides of a drunken
Congressman's mouth?

The floor is level.

I used West epoxy at the suggestion of an instructor to attach veneer to a
couple panels. A filler was added. He liked the stuff because it had no
bleed through. He sold sushi boards on the side and used epoxy exclusively
for attaching the veneers..


"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
om...
On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 19:59:12 -0800, Jim Hall wrote:

Titebond III for most glue ups; Plastic resin glue for complicated
glue-ups needing longer open time; Epoxy (West system 105/207) for bent
laminations and veneer glue ups; Contact cement for attaching plastic
laminate to substrate; Roo glue when smooth surfaces like melamine are
involved.

Epoxy for veneer? That's new to me. Please elaborate.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

"DanG" wrote in news:WciSm.40084$ZF3.25294
@newsfe13.iad:

I've become addicted to this stuff:
http://www.titebond.com/WNTBIIFluorescent.asp

Nothing worse than getting to the stain stage and finding a
problem. This stuff takes out all the guess work.


That doesn't look like it costs any more than the regular Titebond II. I
might have to get some when I use up the gallon of Titebond II.

Puckdropper

"Jim Hall" wrote:

I used West epoxy at the suggestion of an instructor to attach veneer
to a couple panels. A filler was added. He liked the stuff because
it had no bleed through. He sold sushi boards on the side and used
epoxy exclusively for attaching the veneers..

Epoxy is another one of those slippery slopes.

Lew