Been watching this mini series the last few weeks.

Couple of interesting tricks.

The use of a continuous groove in the cabinet wall for the biscuits
used to locate face frames thus eliminating nails, etc.

Looks like a good approach.

Anybody using this technique on a regular basis?

An old boat builder's trick.

Using a surveyor's transit or level to shoot a level reference line on
the walls to eliminate floor variations in an older building.

Makes a lot of sense to me.

Anybody else use this technique?

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Been watching this mini series the last few weeks.

Couple of interesting tricks.

The use of a continuous groove in the cabinet wall for the biscuits
used to locate face frames thus eliminating nails, etc.

Looks like a good approach.

Anybody using this technique on a regular basis?

I use a different method that uses a dado in the back of the face frame
to accept the cabinet sides, floor and/ or top


An old boat builder's trick.

Using a surveyor's transit or level to shoot a level reference line on
the walls to eliminate floor variations in an older building.

Makes a lot of sense to me.

Anybody else use this technique?

http://www.e-woodshop.net/Projects7.htm

Scroll down to the two paragraphs just above "Day 2 ... "

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote:

I use a different method that uses a dado in the back of the face
frame to accept the cabinet sides, floor and/ or top

Assume these are stopped dados.


http://www.e-woodshop.net/Projects7.htm

Scroll down to the two paragraphs just above "Day 2 ... "

SFWIW, a water level gets the job done with a lot less hassle.

A little water and some food coloring and you are in business.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...

"Swingman" wrote:

I use a different method that uses a dado in the back of the face frame
to accept the cabinet sides, floor and/ or top

Assume these are stopped dados.



The stile dados are through, top to bottom. The floor rail dado T's into
the stile dado. You don't see a dado unless you remove the counter top or
put a mirror under the toe kick.

"Swingman" wrote:

You bet .. meaning once the cabinet sides, and top and bottom, are
glued into those dadoes in the back of the face frame, which further
reinforces the face frame joinery, you have a helluva stout unit ...
and, if the face frame is square to start with, you now have a
strong, "square" cabinet.

Now comes the next question.

Is the face frame stock wide enough to allow for the dado cut and the
pocket screw to be side by side or are the pocket screw and the dado
on top of one another?

Seems like side by side could be a problem.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Swingman" wrote:

You bet .. meaning once the cabinet sides, and top and bottom, are
glued into those dadoes in the back of the face frame, which further
reinforces the face frame joinery, you have a helluva stout unit ...
and, if the face frame is square to start with, you now have a
strong, "square" cabinet.

Now comes the next question.

Is the face frame stock wide enough to allow for the dado cut and the
pocket screw to be side by side or are the pocket screw and the dado
on top of one another?

Seems like side by side could be a problem.

Pocket holes are usually on the rail, a bottom rail on a base cabinet,
and both top and bottom rails on a wall cabinet.

The only time it may remotely be an issue, then not much of one, is on
the bottom rail of the typical base cabinet.

A FF rail for a base cabinet that is 1 1 /2" wide has plenty of room for
a 3/4" dado AND one pocket hole screw on each side.

(most wall cabinets will have wider rails, both top and bottom, to make
room for trim on top, and recessed lighting on bottom, usually 2 to 2
1/2", or more).

This single pocket hole screw on the bottom rail is quite sufficient for
the purpose, particularly if you use glue on the joint (even though it
is end grain on on side) AND, most importantly, the cabinet sides and
bottom, when applied and glued into the dadoes, amply reinforce this
"single pocket hole screw" joint between the rail and stile.

In short, not a problem ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote:

In short, not a problem ...

Ah So, understand.

This NYW project wsas designed to have painted Poplar cabinets.

The paint schedule was interesting.

Two (2) primer coats followed by a satin oil base finish coat.

The primer coats were sanded with 320 between coats.

No mention was made of the time schedule, but allowing the primer
enough time to cure enough for sanding didn't just happen.

Anybody want to hazard a guess?

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Swingman" wrote:

I use a different method that uses a dado in the back of the face
frame to accept the cabinet sides, floor and/ or top

Assume these are stopped dados.


http://www.e-woodshop.net/Projects7.htm

Scroll down to the two paragraphs just above "Day 2 ... "

SFWIW, a water level gets the job done with a lot less hassle.

A little water and some food coloring and you are in business.

You would notice, if you read it of course, that I do indeed mention the
use of water levels?? g


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Wed, 2 Dec 2009 14:40:01 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Swingman" wrote:

In short, not a problem ...

Ah So, understand.

This NYW project wsas designed to have painted Poplar cabinets.

The paint schedule was interesting.

Two (2) primer coats followed by a satin oil base finish coat.

The primer coats were sanded with 320 between coats.

No mention was made of the time schedule, but allowing the primer
enough time to cure enough for sanding didn't just happen.

Anybody want to hazard a guess?

Lew




Haven't seen the show, but it could be done in a day or two. It all
depends on the product they spray, size of the job, size of the crew
and spray booth/drying are size. Lacquers, surfacers and many water
based lacquers (modified acylics) dry quickly - easily in half an
hour, quicker if heat is used to help the process. Three coats in a
day possible with some jobs, doors can take a little longer having to
do both sides.

Jeffo

"Swingman" wrote:

You would notice, if you read it of course, that I do indeed mention
the use of water levels?? g

Haven't checked lately, but these days my guess is that laser levels
are getting very competitively priced.

After all, they have been using them to shoot T-Bar ceilings in
commercial buildings since the early 70's.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...

"Swingman" wrote:

You would notice, if you read it of course, that I do indeed mention the
use of water levels?? g

Haven't checked lately, but these days my guess is that laser levels are
getting very competitively priced.

After all, they have been using them to shoot T-Bar ceilings in commercial
buildings since the early 70's.

Lew



Swingman and I used a laser level on the last kitchen install that we did
together. That worked out pretty nicely.

"Leon" wrote:

Swingman and I used a laser level on the last kitchen install that
we did together. That worked out pretty nicely.


Did you/buy?

Would you do it on the next job?



Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote:

Swingman and I used a laser level on the last kitchen install that we did
together. That worked out pretty nicely.


Did you/buy?

Would you do it on the next job?



Lew


Swingman bought it, Ryobi. I would certainly use it again, the continous
red laser line over
a level gives you a long level line around the room vs. chasing a level.

http://www.cporyobi.com/products/zrell0006.html

or HD

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Leon" wrote:

Swingman and I used a laser level on the last kitchen install that
we did together. That worked out pretty nicely.


Did you/buy?

Would you do it on the next job?

Actually I have three laser levels.

The one Leon is talking about is not a high dollar unit, runs in $50 -
70 range, IIRC from Lowe's or Home Depot. It does what I need it to do.
Has both horizontal and vertical beams, is self leveling and fits on an
old camera tripod. I always take it with me to a job site, so yes, it
will be used on the next job. There are many, much more expensive, units
available.

If you want, I'll get the particulars when I get to the shop.

Let me know.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Leon wrote:

Swingman bought it, Ryobi. I would certainly use it again, the continous
red laser line over
a level gives you a long level line around the room vs. chasing a level.

Damn ... didn't remember the name, and thought the line was green!! g

Thankee ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 11:18:50 -0600, Swingman wrote:

Leon wrote:

Swingman bought it, Ryobi. I would certainly use it again, the continous
red laser line over
a level gives you a long level line around the room vs. chasing a level.

Damn ... didn't remember the name, and thought the line was green!! g

Thankee ...


Hey Karl, I've got a kitchen ceiling to begin on Monday that is pretty
much a potato chip, being 4" out in 12' and with an inconsistent
variation to boot. I got my water level out and the tube is all green
from bio****. Sounds like one of these gizmos might be the ticket and
cheap enough to absorb into a single project, if need be.

If you have a good cheap one to vouch for, I'd be glad to hear about
it. I've stayed away from them because anything better than a toy was
too spendy.

Thanks.

tom



Regards,

Tom Watson
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/

Tom Watson wrote:
On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 11:18:50 -0600, Swingman wrote:

Leon wrote:

Swingman bought it, Ryobi. I would certainly use it again, the continous
red laser line over
a level gives you a long level line around the room vs. chasing a level.
Damn ... didn't remember the name, and thought the line was green!! g

Thankee ...


Hey Karl, I've got a kitchen ceiling to begin on Monday that is pretty
much a potato chip, being 4" out in 12' and with an inconsistent
variation to boot. I got my water level out and the tube is all green
from bio****. Sounds like one of these gizmos might be the ticket and
cheap enough to absorb into a single project, if need be.

If you have a good cheap one to vouch for, I'd be glad to hear about
it. I've stayed away from them because anything better than a toy was
too spendy.

Tom,

As you well know, you get what you pay for, but this Ryobi unit that
Leon provided the links for works just fine for the price.

Obviously wouldn't recommend it for laying out a foundation, but it does
the job inside just fine. I would try to use it on a tripod if you have
one ... took a standard camera body thread, may have even had a adapter
for same.

I liked the fact that it self leveled very quickly, and had both
vertical and horizontal beams ... but it is plastic for the most part.

Basically paid for itself on the first kitchen, as far as I'm concerned.

IOW, I wouldn't hesitate to buy it again, if necessary, just to do one
kitchen installation with more than one wall.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:

Swingman bought it, Ryobi. I would certainly use it again, the
continous red laser line over
a level gives you a long level line around the room vs. chasing a level.

Damn ... didn't remember the name, and thought the line was green!! g


If you want it in green

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 11:51:44 -0600, Swingman wrote:

IOW, I wouldn't hesitate to buy it again, if necessary, just to do one
kitchen installation with more than one wall.


Thanks Karl. I jumped into the thread late and didn't see Leon's
links. I'll find them and see if I can pick one up tomorrow.

Much appreciated!



Regards,

Tom Watson
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/

"Swingman" wrote:

Actually I have three laser levels.

The one Leon is talking about is not a high dollar unit, runs in
$50 - 70 range, IIRC from Lowe's or Home Depot. It does what I need
it to do. Has both horizontal and vertical beams, is self leveling
and fits on an old camera tripod. I always take it with me to a job
site, so yes, it will be used on the next job. There are many, much
more expensive, units available.

If you want, I'll get the particulars when I get to the shop.

At $50, it's almost a throw away.

Sounds like it's limited to indoor work which isn't a problem.

What about outdoor work?

Significant price increase?

My interest was what was available today.

Lew

On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 11:18:50 -0600, Swingman wrote:

Leon wrote:

Swingman bought it, Ryobi. I would certainly use it again, the continous
red laser line over
a level gives you a long level line around the room vs. chasing a level.

Damn ... didn't remember the name, and thought the line was green!! g

Thankee ...


I thought you were color blind?

Now Leon has two different Ryobi levels posted. Which one is the
right one?



Regards,

Tom Watson
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/

"Tom Watson" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 11:18:50 -0600, Swingman wrote:

Leon wrote:

Swingman bought it, Ryobi. I would certainly use it again, the
continous
red laser line over
a level gives you a long level line around the room vs. chasing a level.

Damn ... didn't remember the name, and thought the line was green!! g

Thankee ...


I thought you were color blind?

Now Leon has two different Ryobi levels posted. Which one is the
right one?


Swingman has the Blue $50 version, the one I posted a link to first.
Not the Tek4 green version posted second.

On Thu, 3 Dec 2009 13:17:34 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


"Tom Watson" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 11:18:50 -0600, Swingman wrote:

Leon wrote:

Swingman bought it, Ryobi. I would certainly use it again, the
continous
red laser line over
a level gives you a long level line around the room vs. chasing a level.

Damn ... didn't remember the name, and thought the line was green!! g

Thankee ...


I thought you were color blind?

Now Leon has two different Ryobi levels posted. Which one is the
right one?


Swingman has the Blue $50 version, the one I posted a link to first.
Not the Tek4 green version posted second.


Thanks Leon.

being a cheap bastige, i'll go with the first one.



Regards,

Tom Watson
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/

In ,
Lew Hodgett dropped this bit of wisdom:
"Swingman" wrote:

Actually I have three laser levels.

The one Leon is talking about is not a high dollar unit, runs in
$50 - 70 range, IIRC from Lowe's or Home Depot. It does what I need
it to do. Has both horizontal and vertical beams, is self leveling
and fits on an old camera tripod. I always take it with me to a job
site, so yes, it will be used on the next job. There are many, much
more expensive, units available.

If you want, I'll get the particulars when I get to the shop.

At $50, it's almost a throw away.

Sounds like it's limited to indoor work which isn't a problem.

What about outdoor work?

Significant price increase?

My interest was what was available today.

Lew

I got one of those $50 levels which are really good indoors and also got to set the top rail on my fence. At 50 feet the dot got a little big but it was still useable. Wouldn't be without it. Only 1 caveat -- works better outdoors at night. ;-)
P D Q

On Wed, 02 Dec 2009 10:58:52 -0600, the infamous Swingman
scrawled the following:

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Been watching this mini series the last few weeks.

Couple of interesting tricks.

The use of a continuous groove in the cabinet wall for the biscuits
used to locate face frames thus eliminating nails, etc.

Looks like a good approach.

Anybody using this technique on a regular basis?

I use a different method that uses a dado in the back of the face frame
to accept the cabinet sides, floor and/ or top


An old boat builder's trick.

Using a surveyor's transit or level to shoot a level reference line on
the walls to eliminate floor variations in an older building.

Makes a lot of sense to me.

Anybody else use this technique?

http://www.e-woodshop.net/Projects7.htm

Scroll down to the two paragraphs just above "Day 2 ... "

I love your Day 2 toe-kick drawers and their enlightened description
of use.

--
Follow the path of the unsafe, independent thinker. Expose your ideas
to the dangers of controversy. Speak your mind and fear less the label
of 'crackpot' than the stigma of conformity. And on issues that seem
important to you, stand up and be counted at any cost.
-- Thomas J. Watson

On Wed, 2 Dec 2009 14:40:01 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
scrawled the following:


"Swingman" wrote:

In short, not a problem ...

Ah So, understand.

This NYW project wsas designed to have painted Poplar cabinets.

The paint schedule was interesting.

Two (2) primer coats followed by a satin oil base finish coat.

The primer coats were sanded with 320 between coats.

No mention was made of the time schedule, but allowing the primer
enough time to cure enough for sanding didn't just happen.

Anybody want to hazard a guess?

Primer dries in a heartbeat, Lew. What's to "cure"?

--
Follow the path of the unsafe, independent thinker. Expose your ideas
to the dangers of controversy. Speak your mind and fear less the label
of 'crackpot' than the stigma of conformity. And on issues that seem
important to you, stand up and be counted at any cost.
-- Thomas J. Watson

Larry Jaques wrote:

I love your Day 2 toe-kick drawers and their enlightened description
of use.



Before they became common, had one client that kept things she didn't
want the maid to find in the kitchen toe-kick drawers.

Impossible to see, I learned early that if you use them you'd better let
the floor guys know not to nail them shut when applying shoe molding.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Tom Watson" wrote in message
...

being a cheap bastige, i'll go with the first one.

Having worked with that one I'd get it too.

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:

I love your Day 2 toe-kick drawers and their enlightened description
of use.



Before they became common, had one client that kept things she didn't want
the maid to find in the kitchen toe-kick drawers.

Impossible to see, I learned early that if you use them you'd better let
the floor guys know not to nail them shut when applying shoe molding.


LOL. And remember to open the door before nailing the trim around a new
door jam.

Snowing at your house yet? Too cold to work outside. ;~(

On Wed, 02 Dec 2009 19:04:02 -0500, the infamous Jeffo
scrawled the following:

On Wed, 2 Dec 2009 14:40:01 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Swingman" wrote:

In short, not a problem ...

Ah So, understand.

This NYW project wsas designed to have painted Poplar cabinets.

The paint schedule was interesting.

Two (2) primer coats followed by a satin oil base finish coat.

The primer coats were sanded with 320 between coats.

No mention was made of the time schedule, but allowing the primer
enough time to cure enough for sanding didn't just happen.

Anybody want to hazard a guess?

Lew




Haven't seen the show, but it could be done in a day or two. It all
depends on the product they spray, size of the job, size of the crew
and spray booth/drying are size. Lacquers, surfacers and many water
based lacquers (modified acylics) dry quickly - easily in half an
hour, quicker if heat is used to help the process. Three coats in a
day possible with some jobs, doors can take a little longer having to
do both sides.

Do both sides of the door in one hanging with these, Jeffo:
(****, I can't find them anywhere) Well, they're rotatable hooks with
an expandable 30mm disc which fit into the euro hole in the cabinet
doors so you can hang 'em for spraying. I could have sworn LVT had
them, and I can't find them on WWHardware, either. Go figure.

Note to WeeGee: The Master Rockhard Table Top Varnish I used on the
freebie dining table was as follows:

"Put a beautiful, hard amber finish on your fine furniture projects!
This top-of-the-line phenolic resin “short oil” varnish has a low
percentage of oil for a super durable finish. Perfect for tabletops
where a harder finish is required. "


http://www.waterlox.com/site/431/default.aspx
Waterlox is tung oil and phenolic resin.

"Waterlox vs. Urethane - Waterlox forms a protective finish that won’t
chip, peel, crack, or wrinkle. Waterlox never requires sanding for
adhesion purposes. So touch-ups can be done at any time without
sanding down to the bare wood. Waterlox gives you a naturally
beautiful, protective finish that never looks like a sheet of plastic"

--
Follow the path of the unsafe, independent thinker. Expose your ideas
to the dangers of controversy. Speak your mind and fear less the label
of 'crackpot' than the stigma of conformity. And on issues that seem
important to you, stand up and be counted at any cost.
-- Thomas J. Watson

On Thu, 3 Dec 2009 13:17:34 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


Swingman has the Blue $50 version, the one I posted a link to first.
Not the Tek4 green version posted second.



I did a little reading about these gizmos last night and, despite
being a cheap bastage, I went for the Tek4 model. I already had their
Tek4 infrared thermometer and was impressed by its design and
performance.

The new level gizmoid is really cool. I've got at least two ceiling
projects I can use it on.

At this rate I might actually make it into the twenty first century
before I die...


nah.



Regards,

Tom Watson
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/

On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 12:36:18 -0500, the infamous Tom Watson
scrawled the following:

On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 11:18:50 -0600, Swingman wrote:

Leon wrote:

Swingman bought it, Ryobi. I would certainly use it again, the continous
red laser line over
a level gives you a long level line around the room vs. chasing a level.

Damn ... didn't remember the name, and thought the line was green!! g

Thankee ...


Hey Karl, I've got a kitchen ceiling to begin on Monday that is pretty
much a potato chip, being 4" out in 12' and with an inconsistent
variation to boot. I got my water level out and the tube is all green
from bio****. Sounds like one of these gizmos might be the ticket and
cheap enough to absorb into a single project, if need be.

Probably. OTOH, filling the green tube with bleach water will clean
it out in half an hour, should you choose to accept that mission.
A new tool sounds like a much better idea. I picked up a HF
Multifunction tool yesterday for $35. That's a $365 savings over the
Fein, so I bought a hot dog at Costco to splurge some of the savings.


If you have a good cheap one to vouch for, I'd be glad to hear about
it. I've stayed away from them because anything better than a toy was
too spendy.

I bought a StraitLine Intersect laser and haven't used it yet (no tile
or cabinet hangin' jobs in the 2 years since.) $8 + $7 priority
shipping from an eBay vendor. BTW, always doublecheck any laser line
which doesn't come from a unit costing $1,377 from Berger.

--
Follow the path of the unsafe, independent thinker. Expose your ideas
to the dangers of controversy. Speak your mind and fear less the label
of 'crackpot' than the stigma of conformity. And on issues that seem
important to you, stand up and be counted at any cost.
-- Thomas J. Watson

On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 13:26:16 -0500, the infamous Tom Watson
scrawled the following:

On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 11:18:50 -0600, Swingman wrote:

Leon wrote:

Swingman bought it, Ryobi. I would certainly use it again, the continous
red laser line over
a level gives you a long level line around the room vs. chasing a level.

Damn ... didn't remember the name, and thought the line was green!! g

Thankee ...


I thought you were color blind?

Now Leon has two different Ryobi levels posted. Which one is the
right one?

Same unit, same price, but the one from CPO is a refurb. :\

--
Follow the path of the unsafe, independent thinker. Expose your ideas
to the dangers of controversy. Speak your mind and fear less the label
of 'crackpot' than the stigma of conformity. And on issues that seem
important to you, stand up and be counted at any cost.
-- Thomas J. Watson

On Thu, 3 Dec 2009 10:24:27 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
scrawled the following:


"Swingman" wrote:

Actually I have three laser levels.

The one Leon is talking about is not a high dollar unit, runs in
$50 - 70 range, IIRC from Lowe's or Home Depot. It does what I need
it to do. Has both horizontal and vertical beams, is self leveling
and fits on an old camera tripod. I always take it with me to a job
site, so yes, it will be used on the next job. There are many, much
more expensive, units available.

If you want, I'll get the particulars when I get to the shop.

At $50, it's almost a throw away.

Sounds like it's limited to indoor work which isn't a problem.

What about outdoor work?

Iffy. Just work at night. bseg


Significant price increase?

Indeed.


My interest was what was available today.

The high-dollar units are usable outside because their lasers are much
brighter and the lines cleaner. That's just one of the major drawbacks
of the cheap units. Surveyors use laser detectors for longer distances
outdoors.

--
Follow the path of the unsafe, independent thinker. Expose your ideas
to the dangers of controversy. Speak your mind and fear less the label
of 'crackpot' than the stigma of conformity. And on issues that seem
important to you, stand up and be counted at any cost.
-- Thomas J. Watson

"Larry Jaques" reveals his true culinary tastes by admitting...

..., so I bought a hot dog at Costco to splurge some of the savings.


I read an article recently about the CEO of Costco. It turns out those hot
dogs are world famous. The do an incredible volume of those hot dogs and
pledge to always make them available for a reasonable price. And they are
extra big sellers overseas.

You are not alone in "splurging" on Costco hot dogs.

Leon wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:

I love your Day 2 toe-kick drawers and their enlightened description
of use.


Before they became common, had one client that kept things she didn't want
the maid to find in the kitchen toe-kick drawers.

Impossible to see, I learned early that if you use them you'd better let
the floor guys know not to nail them shut when applying shoe molding.


LOL. And remember to open the door before nailing the trim around a new
door jam.

Snowing at your house yet? Too cold to work outside. ;~(

Flurries ... Michelle spent the night last night and it was like when
she was a little girl again when I woke her and her Mom hollering
upstairs: "It's snowing ... in Texas! Look out the window, quick, or
you'll miss it!"

They can move fast when they want to ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Tom Watson wrote:
On Thu, 3 Dec 2009 13:17:34 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


Swingman has the Blue $50 version, the one I posted a link to first.
Not the Tek4 green version posted second.



I did a little reading about these gizmos last night and, despite
being a cheap bastage, I went for the Tek4 model. I already had their
Tek4 infrared thermometer and was impressed by its design and
performance.

The new level gizmoid is really cool. I've got at least two ceiling
projects I can use it on.

_Much_ better unit!

Basically I need to scribe a line on walls once or twice a year, so I
took up your slack on being the cheap bastidge.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:
Leon wrote:
....

Snowing at your house yet? Too cold to work outside. ;~(

Flurries ... Michelle spent the night last night and it was like when
she was a little girl again when I woke her and her Mom hollering
upstairs: "It's snowing ... in Texas! Look out the window, quick, or
you'll miss it!"

....

Often that way in TN, too, altho once't in a while even in the
valley it would really dump on us...

Definitely too cold here -- 'twas 7F when first looked out and since
we'd been near 70F and barely frozen before that was feelin' "right
nippy" this am doin' chores...

What's it doin' in the Valley--the cold gettin' that far down? Not
heard from mom's side of family citrus, etc., ...

--

"Leon" wrote:

Snowing at your house yet? Too cold to work outside. ;~(


Per Google, it's 36F in Houston real time which puts it in the "tad
nippy" category.

Lew

Larry Jaques wrote:
Note to WeeGee: The Master Rockhard Table Top Varnish I used on the
freebie dining table was as follows:

"Put a beautiful, hard amber finish on your fine furniture projects!
This top-of-the-line phenolic resin “short oil” varnish has a low
percentage of oil for a super durable finish. Perfect for tabletops
where a harder finish is required. "

I love Behlen's Rockhard Table Top Varnish, but if you're sanding for a repair
or a re-coat and you happen to break through from one coat into the next, it
*will* give you "witness lines". DAMHIKT. This is why I tend to prefer
lacquer type finishes where later coats always "melt" into prior coats.

http://www.waterlox.com/site/431/default.aspx
Waterlox is tung oil and phenolic resin.

"Waterlox vs. Urethane - Waterlox forms a protective finish that won’t
chip, peel, crack, or wrinkle. Waterlox never requires sanding for
adhesion purposes. So touch-ups can be done at any time without
sanding down to the bare wood. Waterlox gives you a naturally
beautiful, protective finish that never looks like a sheet of plastic"

Based on that description, it sounds like Waterlox isn't that much different
than Behlen's Rockhard... What do you perceive the differences to be Larry?

--
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