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#1
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Engineer's square
How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc?
Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I think the squares may also come in handy when installing a vise on my workbench to be (so I need a larget one for that?). A good graduated combination square would be useful too, no? If the engineers squares above were graduated I'd probably use them so much for general tasks that I'd end up messing them up/dropping them... At this point, I don't even have a good steel rule. Some of you have seen me around here long enough to know I am a beginner. What should I be collecting along these lines? Thanks, Bill P.S. Cleaned the (8') gutters today with a Sear ShopVac accessory ($19.99). Definitely a great tool for that chore! Since I recently had new roof installed, besides leaves they were full of grit and nails, etc. It blows leaves, cleans gutters, vacuums the car well. I never before got such satisfaction from a "vacuum cleaner"! : ) |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
"Bill" wrote in message ... How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I think the squares may also come in handy when installing a vise on my workbench to be (so I need a larget one for that?). A good graduated combination square would be useful too, no? If the engineers squares above were graduated I'd probably use them so much for general tasks that I'd end up messing them up/dropping them... At this point, I don't even have a good steel rule. Some of you have seen me around here long enough to know I am a beginner. What should I be collecting along these lines? Thanks, Bill Bill, While the engineers squares at this price point are somewhat accurate, save your money and get a Starrett Try Square (~$75) and build a nice box for it. It is accurate enough (2 thou / 12") for anything you'll align in your shop or want to measure. It will also last you a lifetime and be a great tool to give to your grandson/daughter one of these days. (that's when the wheels on the walker are worn flat...;-) Bob S. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
"BobS" wrote in message ... "Bill" wrote in message ... How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I think the squares may also come in handy when installing a vise on my workbench to be (so I need a larget one for that?). A good graduated combination square would be useful too, no? If the engineers squares above were graduated I'd probably use them so much for general tasks that I'd end up messing them up/dropping them... At this point, I don't even have a good steel rule. Some of you have seen me around here long enough to know I am a beginner. What should I be collecting along these lines? Thanks, Bill Bill, While the engineers squares at this price point are somewhat accurate, save your money and get a Starrett Try Square (~$75) and build a nice box for it. It is accurate enough (2 thou / 12") for anything you'll align in your shop or want to measure. It will also last you a lifetime and be a great tool to give to your grandson/daughter one of these days. (that's when the wheels on the walker are worn flat...;-) Bob S. Thank you, Bob S. I assume you mean "Reliable Try-Square, No. 61" (which is 6" in length). Getting-by with one would be just getting by, no? Starrett sure has a dizzying arrays of fine products (starret.com), and I thank you for introducing me to them. However, in view of the "big picture" I think I may be wise to buy the Groz squares (or similar) and put the leftover $ towards one of many other tools that I need. Well, who knows, maybe I'll find one on sale! : ) Bill |
#4
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Engineer's square
On Nov 23, 10:52*pm, "BobS" wrote:
"Bill" wrote in message ... How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I think the squares may also come in handy when installing a vise on my workbench to be (so I need a larget one for that?). A good graduated combination square would be useful too, no? If the engineers squares above were graduated I'd probably use them so much for general tasks that I'd end up messing them up/dropping them... At this point, I don't even have a good steel rule. *Some of you have seen me around here long enough to know I am a beginner. *What should I be collecting along these lines? Thanks, Bill Bill, While the engineers squares at this price point are somewhat accurate, save your money and get a Starrett Try Square (~$75) and build a nice box for it. *It is accurate enough (2 thou / 12") for anything you'll align in your shop or want to measure. It will also last you a lifetime and be a great tool to give to your grandson/daughter one of these days. (that's when the wheels on the walker are worn flat...;-) Buy the best you can afford *now*, this is the one tool that will make or break your every project. One good Starrett is worth 20 cheap Swansons. Bought one cheap Swanson 6" square for jobsite work, $5.00. Actually dead-on accurate out of the package, but the aluminum parts wore out within 6 months. Tossed the stock, saved the blade and scriber. Shiny blade was made much more readable by lightly sanding it with 320 and a shot of oil. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
On Nov 23, 10:52*pm, "BobS" wrote:
"Bill" wrote in message ... How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I think the squares may also come in handy when installing a vise on my workbench to be (so I need a larget one for that?). A good graduated combination square would be useful too, no? If the engineers squares above were graduated I'd probably use them so much for general tasks that I'd end up messing them up/dropping them... At this point, I don't even have a good steel rule. *Some of you have seen me around here long enough to know I am a beginner. *What should I be collecting along these lines? Thanks, Bill Bill, While the engineers squares at this price point are somewhat accurate, save your money and get a Starrett Try Square (~$75) and build a nice box for it. *It is accurate enough (2 thou / 12") for anything you'll align in your shop or want to measure. It will also last you a lifetime and be a great tool to give to your grandson/daughter one of these days. (that's when the wheels on the walker are worn flat...;-) Buy the best you can afford *now*, this is the one tool that will make or break your every project. One good Starrett is worth 20 cheap Swansons. Bought one cheap Swanson 6" square for jobsite work, $5.00. Actually dead-on accurate out of the package, but the aluminum parts wore out within 6 months. Tossed the stock, saved the blade and scriber. Shiny blade was made much more readable by lightly sanding it with 320 and a shot of oil. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
"BobS" wrote in message ... While the engineers squares at this price point are somewhat accurate, save your money and get a Starrett Try Square (~$75) and build a nice box for it. It is accurate enough (2 thou / 12") for anything you'll align in your shop or want to measure. It will also last you a lifetime and be a great tool to give to your grandson/daughter one of these days. (that's when the wheels on the walker are worn flat...;-) Bob S. I finally decided to "take the plunge". Seems like it will be helpful in installing a woodworkers vise on the benchtop I want to build (right?). Now I find out neither Rockler nor Woodcraft carry the 12" hardened-steel version (C33H-12-4R). Would have liked to have found it locally, but I can't seem to find a good source near Indianapolis. I contacted Starrett who gave me "two numbers to start with". The first one had been disconnected. Evidently there is more money to be made selling the 9.99 versions. Bill |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
Bill wrote:
"BobS" wrote in message ... While the engineers squares at this price point are somewhat accurate, save your money and get a Starrett Try Square (~$75) and build a nice box for it. It is accurate enough (2 thou / 12") for anything you'll align in your shop or want to measure. It will also last you a lifetime and be a great tool to give to your grandson/daughter one of these days. (that's when the wheels on the walker are worn flat...;-) Bob S. I finally decided to "take the plunge". Seems like it will be helpful in installing a woodworkers vise on the benchtop I want to build (right?). Now I find out neither Rockler nor Woodcraft carry the 12" hardened-steel version (C33H-12-4R). Would have liked to have found it locally, but I can't seem to find a good source near Indianapolis. I contacted Starrett who gave me "two numbers to start with". The first one had been disconnected. Evidently there is more money to be made selling the 9.99 versions. FWIW, Amazon has that model for 85 bucks and shipping. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
"J. Clarke" wrote in message ... Bill wrote: "BobS" wrote in message ... While the engineers squares at this price point are somewhat accurate, save your money and get a Starrett Try Square (~$75) and build a nice box for it. It is accurate enough (2 thou / 12") for anything you'll align in your shop or want to measure. It will also last you a lifetime and be a great tool to give to your grandson/daughter one of these days. (that's when the wheels on the walker are worn flat...;-) Bob S. I finally decided to "take the plunge". Seems like it will be helpful in installing a woodworkers vise on the benchtop I want to build (right?). Now I find out neither Rockler nor Woodcraft carry the 12" hardened-steel version (C33H-12-4R). Would have liked to have found it locally, but I can't seem to find a good source near Indianapolis. I contacted Starrett who gave me "two numbers to start with". The first one had been disconnected. Evidently there is more money to be made selling the 9.99 versions. FWIW, Amazon has that model for 85 bucks and shipping. Yep, $85 including shipping. My wife mentioned she would like to give me a woodworking item for xmas...haven't mentioned anything yet. Did you see that Larry the Cable Guy skit, where he explains that the waitress rubbed his neck, and then he thought "Gosh, I should've asked for....!" ; ) Of course, the truth is that we try to lead a thrifty life style--at least I do. : ) Bill |
#9
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Engineer's square
Bill wrote:
My wife mentioned she would like to give me a woodworking item for xmas...haven't mentioned anything yet. I'd sure like to have a Lee Valley Imperial Micro-Adjust Marking Gauge for Christmas, if anybody wants to get one for me: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...55&cat=1,42936 I think your wife wants to get you one too Bill. :-) -- "Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green To reply, eat the taco. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/ |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
On Nov 23, 9:18*pm, "Bill" wrote:
How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I think the squares may also come in handy when installing a vise on my workbench to be (so I need a larget one for that?). A good graduated combination square would be useful too, no? If the engineers squares above were graduated I'd probably use them so much for general tasks that I'd end up messing them up/dropping them... At this point, I don't even have a good steel rule. *Some of you have seen me around here long enough to know I am a beginner. *What should I be collecting along these lines? Thanks, Bill P.S. *Cleaned the (8') gutters today with a Sear ShopVac accessory ($19..99). Definitely a great tool for that chore! *Since I recently had new roof installed, besides leaves they were full of grit and nails, etc. It blows leaves, cleans gutters, vacuums the car well. * I never before got such satisfaction from a "vacuum cleaner"! : ) A speed square. A Swanson Speed Square is a great way to get going. Not too expensive either. I'd start with one of those. It is the most used square in my shop. |
#11
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Engineer's square
On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 20:02:48 -0800 (PST), the infamous Robatoy
scrawled the following: On Nov 23, 9:18*pm, "Bill" wrote: How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I think the squares may also come in handy when installing a vise on my workbench to be (so I need a larget one for that?). A good graduated combination square would be useful too, no? If the engineers squares above were graduated I'd probably use them so much for general tasks that I'd end up messing them up/dropping them... At this point, I don't even have a good steel rule. *Some of you have seen me around here long enough to know I am a beginner. *What should I be collecting along these lines? Thanks, Bill P.S. *Cleaned the (8') gutters today with a Sear ShopVac accessory ($19.99). Definitely a great tool for that chore! *Since I recently had new roof installed, besides leaves they were full of grit and nails, etc. It blows leaves, cleans gutters, vacuums the car well. * I never before got such satisfaction from a "vacuum cleaner"! : ) A speed square. A Swanson Speed Square is a great way to get going. Not too expensive either. I'd start with one of those. It is the most used square in my shop. That's my mainstay in the field. In the shop, the little pair of 4-inchers from LVT do it for me quite often (but I keep a SSS in the shop, too.) -- It is not because things are difficult that we do not dare; it is because we do not dare that they are difficult. -- Seneca |
#12
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Engineer's square
On Nov 24, 8:11*am, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 20:02:48 -0800 (PST), the infamous Robatoy scrawled the following: On Nov 23, 9:18*pm, "Bill" wrote: How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I think the squares may also come in handy when installing a vise on my workbench to be (so I need a larget one for that?). A good graduated combination square would be useful too, no? If the engineers squares above were graduated I'd probably use them so much for general tasks that I'd end up messing them up/dropping them... At this point, I don't even have a good steel rule. *Some of you have seen me around here long enough to know I am a beginner. *What should I be collecting along these lines? Thanks, Bill P.S. *Cleaned the (8') gutters today with a Sear ShopVac accessory ($19.99). Definitely a great tool for that chore! *Since I recently had new roof installed, besides leaves they were full of grit and nails, etc. It blows leaves, cleans gutters, vacuums the car well. * I never before got such satisfaction from a "vacuum cleaner"! : ) A speed square. A Swanson Speed Square is a great way to get going. Not too expensive either. I'd start with one of those. It is the most used square in my shop. That's my mainstay in the field. In the shop, the little pair of 4-inchers from LVT do it for me quite often (but I keep a SSS in the shop, too.) -- It is not because things are difficult that we do not dare; it is because we do not dare that they are difficult. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * -- Seneca Bill mentioned he was a relatively new at this, so my suggestion was based on cheap. not-too-bad accuracy, easy to handle. A standard combo square is not that much more accurate IMHO unless you drop some serious coin, but they make a fine depth gauge as well. For tablesaw set up etc, a 6" machinist square does it all for me. If more than a couple of thou mess you up, use thicker glue. G |
#13
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Engineer's square
On 11/23/2009 08:18 PM, Bill wrote:
At this point, I don't even have a good steel rule. Some of you have seen me around here long enough to know I am a beginner. What should I be collecting along these lines? An engineers square is usually quite stock-heavy. They're mostly useful for machine setup. A try square is better for laying out joinery. A good steel rule is accurate right out to each end, with easy to read markings. A 12" is nice, and a 6" comes in handy for smaller items. Some have markings on the end as well (useful for setting bit or blade height). The 6" Shinwa (at Lee Valley and other places) does a good job. A good combination square is useful. The Starrett or equivalent is expensive but nice. Another option would be to take a 45/45/90 plastic drafting triangle (generally very accurate) down to the big box store and test all the cheaper squares until you find one that happens to be accurate. Also check that the blade is straight. Chris |
#14
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Engineer's square
Bill wrote:
At this point, I don't even have a good steel rule. Some of you have seen me around here long enough to know I am a beginner. What should I be collecting along these lines? I found this to be one of the most useful measuring/marking tools I've acquired--I use it constantly. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...79&cat=1,42936 |
#15
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Engineer's square
On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 21:18:25 -0500, Bill wrote:
How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I think the squares may also come in handy when installing a vise on my workbench to be (so I need a larget one for that?). I think that's the same set I bought at Woodcraft. The precision of (IIRC) 0.0006" is marked on the blades, but no indication of whether that's overall or per inch. In either case, I set the 6" up against a pricey machinists square on a flat surface and there was absolutely no light between the blades. I'm happy. -- Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw |
#16
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Engineer's square
I think that's the same set I bought at Woodcraft. The precision of (IIRC) 0.0006" is marked on the blades, but no indication of whether that's overall or per inch. In either case, I set the 6" up against a pricey machinists square on a flat surface and there was absolutely no light between the blades. I'm happy. If it only says .0006, it's per inch, not total error. |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 21:18:25 -0500, Bill wrote: How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I think the squares may also come in handy when installing a vise on my workbench to be (so I need a larget one for that?). I think that's the same set I bought at Woodcraft. The precision of (IIRC) 0.0006" is marked on the blades, but no indication of whether that's overall or per inch. In either case, I set the 6" up against a pricey machinists square on a flat surface and there was absolutely no light between the blades. I'm happy. The precision should be per inch. While they are on the lower end of accuracy for squares used for setting up metal cutting tools, their precision goes beyond anything that is likely to be detectable in woodworking. Face it, there's nothing magic about machining two pieces of steel flat and sticking them together at right angles--they can do that as well in India or China as they do in the US and Japan and the EU. The place to spend the bucks is with a combination square--there the cheap ones usually aren't square out of the box and if they are they don't stay square very long--since they have moving parts, maintaining precision is more difficult than for something that is permanently welded/brazed. I finally spent the bucks for a Starrett and I'm glad I did. Browne & Sharpe and Mitutoyo also make good ones. |
#18
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Engineer's square
On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 06:56:42 -0500, J. Clarke wrote:
Face it, there's nothing magic about machining two pieces of steel flat and sticking them together at right angles--they can do that as well in India or China as they do in the US and Japan and the EU. I've got one of the first squares from Stanley Rule and Level Company. They put the handle and the blade in a jig and poured molten metal into a matching set of holes. After all these years, it's still right on! -- Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw |
#19
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Engineer's square
"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message ... On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 21:18:25 -0500, Bill wrote: How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I think the squares may also come in handy when installing a vise on my workbench to be (so I need a larget one for that?). I think that's the same set I bought at Woodcraft. The precision of (IIRC) 0.0006" is marked on the blades, but no indication of whether that's overall or per inch. In either case, I set the 6" up against a pricey machinists square on a flat surface and there was absolutely no light between the blades. I'm happy. Accuracy of that double square is stated as " better than 0.001" per inch" http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...79&cat=1,42936 Bob S. |
#20
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Engineer's square
BobS wrote:
"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message ... On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 21:18:25 -0500, Bill wrote: How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I think the squares may also come in handy when installing a vise on my workbench to be (so I need a larget one for that?). I think that's the same set I bought at Woodcraft. The precision of (IIRC) 0.0006" is marked on the blades, but no indication of whether that's overall or per inch. In either case, I set the 6" up against a pricey machinists square on a flat surface and there was absolutely no light between the blades. I'm happy. A few years ago, long before I found this forum, I bought two carpenter's squares, 24" and 8", believing that I was starting my woodworking tool collection. I assume they may be good for deciding flatness and maybe cutting some square (replacement) pieces of drywall and as a replacement for a steel rule (?). I anticipated using them as a try square on wood, but from what I've read here they don't make the grade.. Does anyone here use carpenters squares for anything (besides stairways and roofs)? Probably precise enough to use on outdoor furniture, huh--or better than that? Bill |
#21
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Engineer's square
Bill wrote:
How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I've found engineer squares quite useful for machine setup. I carry a 2" one in my shop apron for quick double-checks on various settings such as jointer fence, etc. I think the squares may also come in handy when installing a vise on my workbench to be (so I need a larget one for that?). Probably not so much. A good tri-square (combination square) would work better A good graduated combination square would be useful too, no? Probably would recommend one of them first or in combination with the engineers squares If the engineers squares above were graduated I'd probably use them so much for general tasks that I'd end up messing them up/dropping them... They wouldn't be engineers squares if they were graduated. Dropping them is definitely not a good thing. At this point, I don't even have a good steel rule. Some of you have seen me around here long enough to know I am a beginner. What should I be collecting along these lines? Thanks, Bill IMO, the set of engineer squares, with a combination square, and a good straight-edge are a good start. -- There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage Rob Leatham |
#22
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Engineer's square
Bill wrote:
How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I think the squares may also come in handy when installing a vise on my workbench to be (so I need a larget one for that?). A good graduated combination square would be useful too, no? If the engineers squares above were graduated I'd probably use them so much for general tasks that I'd end up messing them up/dropping them... At this point, I don't even have a good steel rule. Some of you have seen me around here long enough to know I am a beginner. What should I be collecting along these lines? Thanks, Bill P.S. Cleaned the (8') gutters today with a Sear ShopVac accessory ($19.99). Definitely a great tool for that chore! Since I recently had new roof installed, besides leaves they were full of grit and nails, etc. It blows leaves, cleans gutters, vacuums the car well. I never before got such satisfaction from a "vacuum cleaner"! : ) I'm cheap. For machine set up I use an inexpensive plastic drafting triangles purchased at one of the local office supply places. I find them more than adequate for woodworking. -- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA |
#23
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Engineer's square
Nova wrote:
I'm cheap. For machine set up I use an inexpensive plastic drafting triangles purchased at one of the local office supply places. I find them more than adequate for woodworking. And you never risk dulling a tooth or blade? -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#24
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Engineer's square
"Bill" wrote in message ... How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I think the squares may also come in handy when installing a vise on my workbench to be (so I need a larget one for that?). A good graduated combination square would be useful too, no? If the engineers squares above were graduated I'd probably use them so much for general tasks that I'd end up messing them up/dropping them... At this point, I don't even have a good steel rule. Some of you have seen me around here long enough to know I am a beginner. What should I be collecting along these lines? Thanks, Bill P.S. Cleaned the (8') gutters today with a Sear ShopVac accessory ($19.99). Definitely a great tool for that chore! Since I recently had new roof installed, besides leaves they were full of grit and nails, etc. It blows leaves, cleans gutters, vacuums the car well. I never before got such satisfaction from a "vacuum cleaner"! : ) You'll never regret buying a good square. However, they're only good 'til the first drop, so consider how (and where) you'll be using it. For the purposes you describe, I don't think you can go wrong with the Groz. If you're still not sure, buy the Groz, take it to your shop and see how much or if it's off square, and if that doesn't meet with your minimum requirements, take it back and tell them it's not square and step up to the Starett. |
#25
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Engineer's square
Joe wrote:
"Bill" wrote in message You'll never regret buying a good square. However, they're only good 'til the first drop, so consider how (and where) you'll be using it. For the purposes you describe, I don't think you can go wrong with the Groz. If you're still not sure, buy the Groz, take it to your shop and see how much or if it's off square, and if that doesn't meet with your minimum requirements, take it back and tell them it's not square and step up to the Starett. The only "test" I can think of is the one I learned for a carpenter's squa You use the square to draw a perpendicular line to the edge of a board, then you flip the square over and draw another line. The lines should be the same or parallel. Repeat several times for higher confidence. How does that test measure-up here??? Bill |
#26
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Engineer's square
On 11/24/2009 01:46 PM, Bill wrote:
The only "test" I can think of is the one I learned for a carpenter's squa You use the square to draw a perpendicular line to the edge of a board, then you flip the square over and draw another line. The lines should be the same or parallel. Repeat several times for higher confidence. How does that test measure-up here??? If you don't already have a known-good square, then that test works. You need to make sure that the edge you're referencing the square against is straight. If you're using a wooden surface, a knife will give a finer line than a pencil. If you've got a known-good square (a drafting triangle works fine) then take it and the one being tested and place them both facing each other against a known-straight edge. Hold it up against a light and see how big the gap (if any) is between the two blades. Chris |
#27
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Engineer's square
"Bill" wrote in message ... Joe wrote: "Bill" wrote in message You'll never regret buying a good square. However, they're only good 'til the first drop, so consider how (and where) you'll be using it. For the purposes you describe, I don't think you can go wrong with the Groz. If you're still not sure, buy the Groz, take it to your shop and see how much or if it's off square, and if that doesn't meet with your minimum requirements, take it back and tell them it's not square and step up to the Starett. The only "test" I can think of is the one I learned for a carpenter's squa You use the square to draw a perpendicular line to the edge of a board, then you flip the square over and draw another line. The lines should be the same or parallel. Repeat several times for higher confidence. How does that test measure-up here??? Bill that's the test I would use, but with a very sharp marking knife instead of a pencil. jc |
#28
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 21:18:25 -0500, "Bill"
wrote: How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I think the squares may also come in handy when installing a vise on my workbench to be (so I need a larget one for that?). A good graduated combination square would be useful too, no? If the engineers squares above were graduated I'd probably use them so much for general tasks that I'd end up messing them up/dropping them... At this point, I don't even have a good steel rule. Some of you have seen me around here long enough to know I am a beginner. What should I be collecting along these lines? Thanks, Bill P.S. Cleaned the (8') gutters today with a Sear ShopVac accessory ($19.99). Definitely a great tool for that chore! Since I recently had new roof installed, besides leaves they were full of grit and nails, etc. It blows leaves, cleans gutters, vacuums the car well. I never before got such satisfaction from a "vacuum cleaner"! : ) I use my Starrett combination square. It's a little bit better than using an index card. |
#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
"Bill" writes:
How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I found that a nice 4" double square is a pleasure to use, and very handy. They usually go for $40, but I've seen sales for $20. I use that more than a fixed engineering square. |
#30
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
"Bruce Barnett" wrote in message ... "Bill" writes: How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I found that a nice 4" double square is a pleasure to use, and very handy. They usually go for $40, but I've seen sales for $20. I use that more than a fixed engineering square. If you wish to check that your TS blade is vertical, for instance, do you just use the base of the double square? It would appear that the base has the potential to have more "integrity" than the angle it forms with the rule. I like that it is graduated--seems very usable indeed. My thanks to everyone who has helped with this thread! Bill |
#31
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
"Bill" wrote: If you wish to check that your TS blade is vertical, for instance, do you just use the base of the double square? No tools required, just a piece of scrap and a miter gage. Lew |
#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
"Bill" wrote in message ... "Bruce Barnett" wrote in message ... "Bill" writes: How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I found that a nice 4" double square is a pleasure to use, and very handy. They usually go for $40, but I've seen sales for $20. I use that more than a fixed engineering square. If you wish to check that your TS blade is vertical, for instance, do you just use the base of the double square? It would appear that the base has the potential to have more "integrity" than the angle it forms with the rule. If the angle it forms with the rule is not square, return it or throw it away. If I were in your position, I would buy a GOOD combination square a they are very versatile. You won't find a good one at Home Depot. I would suggest Starrett (though I have a Mititoyo). There are several top end combo squares that are as accurate as a Starrett but Starrett will, at a very reasonable charge, fix it if you damage it. Expect to pay $75 to $100 for it. Seems expensive but well worth it. The cheap ones that you find at your local home center are near useless. When setting up a machine, you need accuracy. If the machine is not set up right, it will transfer this inaccuracy to the work piece. After making many pieces, all the errors will ad up to the point things won't fit. This is particularly bad for the less experienced as they may not know what the problem is, They will likely think it is something they're doing wrong when it really is a badly set up machine. You often here people say within 1/64 is close enough for woodwork. For some things it is but for many things, 1/64 off might as well be a mile. |
#33
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
"CW" wrote: If the angle it forms with the rule is not square, return it or throw it away. If I were in your position, I would buy a GOOD combination square a they are very versatile. You won't find a good one at Home Depot. I would suggest Starrett (though I have a Mititoyo). There are several top end combo squares that are as accurate as a Starrett but Starrett will, at a very reasonable charge, fix it if you damage it. Expect to pay $75 to $100 for it. Seems expensive but well worth it. The cheap ones that you find at your local home center are near useless. When setting up a machine, you need accuracy. If the machine is not set up right, it will transfer this inaccuracy to the work piece. After making many pieces, all the errors will ad up to the point things won't fit. This is particularly bad for the less experienced as they may not know what the problem is, They will likely think it is something they're doing wrong when it really is a badly set up machine. You often here people say within 1/64 is close enough for woodwork. For some things it is but for many things, 1/64 off might as well be a mile. Just curious. Since most of the above applies to metal working machinery, how does it transfer to wood working tolerances? You can machine a metal piece +\- 0.001" and come back a month later and find the piece to still be within spec assuming ambient temperatures are similar. Machine a piece of wood to the same +\- 0.001" in the morning and it will be out of spec in the afternoon. Basic reason any material that gets machined, gets glued up the same day, at least in my boat yard. IMHO, expecting to maintain wood tolerances greater than +\-1/64" over any length of time is a stretch. Lew |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
"Lew Hodgett" writes:
Since most of the above applies to metal working machinery, how does it transfer to wood working tolerances? I'm not a big tolerance proponent, but making something like a 12" by 12" by 12" box with 1/8th" thickness required careful tolerances. That's because small errors accumulate over distance and over cobined angles. I have a few combination squares. I bought a Starrett off eBay at a good price. (I actually bought pieces separately - cheaper than buying a set.) Note that there are two kinds of heads - hardened or not. One has a pebbled finshish, and the other is smoother. The Starrett, even though it's old and has a patina, is still very readable. I have a Lufkin and Stanley rule one that has some slight rust, and the readability of the Starrett is much nicer. It's brighter and easier to read in dim light. There is not as much tarnish on it. Perhaps it's the hardened blade. Also - the little pin you use to scribe has a nice solid feel to it, compared to the other two combo squares I have. There's a certain joy in using a Starrett. One of these days I'm going to get a 4" or 6" double square Starrett. I like the Lee Valley DS ($20 on sale) very much, but one of these days.... |
#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
On Nov 25, 2:39*am, "CW" wrote:
"Bill" wrote in message ... "Bruce Barnett" wrote in ... "Bill" writes: How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I found that a nice 4" double square is a pleasure to use, and very handy. They usually go for $40, but I've seen sales for $20. I use that more than a fixed engineering square. If you wish to check that your TS blade is vertical, for instance, do you just use the base of the double square? It would appear that the base has the potential to have more "integrity" than the angle it forms with the rule. If the angle it forms with the rule is not square, return it or throw it away. If I were in your position, I would buy a GOOD combination square a they are very versatile. You won't find a good one at Home Depot. I would suggest Starrett (though I have a Mititoyo). There are several top end combo squares that are as accurate as a Starrett but Starrett will, at a very reasonable charge, fix it if you damage it. Expect to pay $75 to $100 for it. Seems expensive but well worth it. The cheap ones that you find at your local home center are near useless. When setting up a machine, you need accuracy. If the machine is not set up right, it will transfer this inaccuracy to the work piece. After making many pieces, all the errors will ad up to the point things won't fit. This is particularly bad for the less experienced as they may not know what the problem is, They will likely think it is something they're doing wrong when it really is a badly set up machine. You often here people say within 1/64 is close enough for woodwork. For some things it is but for many things, 1/64 off might as well be a mile.- Hide quoted text - Where do you rate a proper dovetail? |
#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
"Father Haskell" wrote in message ... On Nov 25, 2:39 am, "CW" wrote: "Bill" wrote in message ... "Bruce Barnett" wrote in ... "Bill" writes: How do the Groz engineer's squares measure up for setting up a TS, BS, etc? Rockler has them (set of 3) on sale for $29.99 instead of $39.99. I found that a nice 4" double square is a pleasure to use, and very handy. They usually go for $40, but I've seen sales for $20. I use that more than a fixed engineering square. If you wish to check that your TS blade is vertical, for instance, do you just use the base of the double square? It would appear that the base has the potential to have more "integrity" than the angle it forms with the rule. If the angle it forms with the rule is not square, return it or throw it away. If I were in your position, I would buy a GOOD combination square a they are very versatile. You won't find a good one at Home Depot. I would suggest Starrett (though I have a Mititoyo). There are several top end combo squares that are as accurate as a Starrett but Starrett will, at a very reasonable charge, fix it if you damage it. Expect to pay $75 to $100 for it. Seems expensive but well worth it. The cheap ones that you find at your local home center are near useless. When setting up a machine, you need accuracy. If the machine is not set up right, it will transfer this inaccuracy to the work piece. After making many pieces, all the errors will ad up to the point things won't fit. This is particularly bad for the less experienced as they may not know what the problem is, They will likely think it is something they're doing wrong when it really is a badly set up machine. You often here people say within 1/64 is close enough for woodwork. For some things it is but for many things, 1/64 off might as well be a mile.- Hide quoted text - Where do you rate a proper dovetail? If I get what you are asking, 1/64 out on a dovetail might as well be a mile. Many people would be amazed at the tolerances that have to be held for joints such as dovetails, box joints, mortise and tennon et.Got to admire guys that can hand cut really nice joints. I've hand cut dovetails. They worked but were anything but nice fitting, not to mention being ugly. |
#37
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
"Bill" writes:
"Bruce Barnett" wrote in message ... I found that a nice 4" double square is a pleasure to use, and very handy. They usually go for $40, but I've seen sales for $20. I use that more than a fixed engineering square. If you wish to check that your TS blade is vertical, for instance, do you just use the base of the double square? I move the blade so that it's flush with the handle, so it has the same shape as an engineering square. It's also handy to measure router bit height, etc. |
#38
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
"Bruce Barnett" wrote in message ... "Bill" writes: "Bruce Barnett" wrote in message ... I found that a nice 4" double square is a pleasure to use, and very handy. They usually go for $40, but I've seen sales for $20. I use that more than a fixed engineering square. If you wish to check that your TS blade is vertical, for instance, do you just use the base of the double square? I move the blade so that it's flush with the handle, so it has the same shape as an engineering square. It's also handy to measure router bit height, etc. I read a bunch of review on Starrett squares at amazon.com--they have a lot of particularly satisfied customers! Beginner's question: Say I use a fine square to mark a 3 or 4 inch line "perfectly", with an awl or knife. How can I extend that line to, say, 10 or 20 inches with accuracy that would please Starrett's customers? Does it suffice to place the knife blade into the first cut, and press the edge of the Starrett rule up against it and continue cutting with the knife against the rule? If not, what is the SOP here? A long while ago when I actually made a lot of projects, they always seemed just a little bit off where ends were supposed to meet and such. Back then I was probably using a ruler and a pencil--where, of course, the corner of a ruler could double as a square... I thought someone said that a good craftsman doesn't blame his tools...but I agree that it seems to make sense to spend a little on the one tool that all of the rest of the tools are going to be set up with... Thanks. Bill |
#39
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
"Bill" writes:
Beginner's question: Say I use a fine square to mark a 3 or 4 inch line "perfectly", with an awl or knife. How can I extend that line to, say, 10 or 20 inches with accuracy that would please Starrett's customers? Well, a Starrett fan would have a 24" combination ruler. But I would either make additional marks along the edge, and especially the other end of the piece of wood, extending the line. and then use a straightedge or framing square. |
#40
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Engineer's square
As well-regarded (and relatively fragile) as the Starrett combination
squares are, how come they don't sell them in a decent case (or do they?)? Was looking at C33H-12-4R, and dreweling over C434-12-4R...circle-divider be darned, there's something about that protractor!! ; ) Maybe I need a konk in the head with a square! Maybe I'd see Starretts??? ::cough cough:: Bill |
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