Just picked up one of these at a sale and have a few questions.

It's in relatively good condition but I plan on giving it a thorough tuning.
I'm puzzled about the plane iron though - it appears that it has been ground
in a slight arc across the cutting edge as opposed to a 90 degree cut. Is
this normal for these planes? I've seen some planes with a curved blade
before but wondering what effect it will have if I grind straight across.

2nd item - Although it's relatively rust free, the japanning is chipped in
quite a few places. Having it re-japanned ( is that a word??) is not a
viable option as is trying to do that myself. What might be a good
alternative - I was thinking some sort of epoxy paint. Any ideas?

Thanx,

Vic

"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...
Just picked up one of these at a sale and have a few questions.

It's in relatively good condition but I plan on giving it a thorough
tuning. I'm puzzled about the plane iron though - it appears that it has
been ground in a slight arc across the cutting edge as opposed to a 90
degree cut. Is this normal for these planes? I've seen some planes with a
curved blade before but wondering what effect it will have if I grind
straight across.

2nd item - Although it's relatively rust free, the japanning is chipped
in quite a few places. Having it re-japanned ( is that a word??) is not a
viable option as is trying to do that myself. What might be a good
alternative - I was thinking some sort of epoxy paint. Any ideas?


A slight camber on the iron is useful for correcting out of square
conditions and it keeps the corners from leaving tracks. By slight we're
talking about 1/64" at the ends as compared to the middle.

Personally, for a "user" vs. a decoration I wouldn't bother with fixing the
Japanning... but that's me.

John

"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
...

"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...
Just picked up one of these at a sale and have a few questions.

It's in relatively good condition but I plan on giving it a thorough
tuning. I'm puzzled about the plane iron though - it appears that it has
been ground in a slight arc across the cutting edge as opposed to a 90
degree cut. Is this normal for these planes? I've seen some planes with
a curved blade before but wondering what effect it will have if I grind
straight across.

2nd item - Although it's relatively rust free, the japanning is chipped
in quite a few places. Having it re-japanned ( is that a word??) is not
a viable option as is trying to do that myself. What might be a good
alternative - I was thinking some sort of epoxy paint. Any ideas?


A slight camber on the iron is useful for correcting out of square
conditions and it keeps the corners from leaving tracks. By slight we're
talking about 1/64" at the ends as compared to the middle.

Personally, for a "user" vs. a decoration I wouldn't bother with fixing
the Japanning... but that's me.

John

Thanx John - Actually I agree about the japanning. I'll just clean it up and
leave it.

The iron isn't rounded at the corners, it's a smooth arc from side to side.
I'll grind it square and round the corners as I usually do. Just wasn't
familiar with this plane and wanted to be sure the arc wasn't a design
function.

Vic

Vic Baron wrote:
"John Grossbohlin" wrote in
message ...

"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...
Just picked up one of these at a sale and have a few questions.

It's in relatively good condition but I plan on giving it a thorough
tuning. I'm puzzled about the plane iron though - it appears that
it has been ground in a slight arc across the cutting edge as
opposed to a 90 degree cut. Is this normal for these planes? I've
seen some planes with a curved blade before but wondering what
effect it will have if I grind straight across.

2nd item - Although it's relatively rust free, the japanning is
chipped in quite a few places. Having it re-japanned ( is that a
word??) is not a viable option as is trying to do that myself. What
might be a good alternative - I was thinking some sort of epoxy
paint. Any ideas?


A slight camber on the iron is useful for correcting out of square
conditions and it keeps the corners from leaving tracks. By slight
we're talking about 1/64" at the ends as compared to the middle.

Personally, for a "user" vs. a decoration I wouldn't bother with
fixing the Japanning... but that's me.

John

Thanx John - Actually I agree about the japanning. I'll just clean it
up and leave it.

The iron isn't rounded at the corners, it's a smooth arc from side to
side. I'll grind it square and round the corners as I usually do.
Just wasn't familiar with this plane and wanted to be sure the arc
wasn't a design function.

It's called "camber" and it is a design function on a jointer plane. The
idea is that you can adjust an out of square edge by the position of the
plane rather than by having to tilt the plane or adjust the iron.

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Vic Baron wrote:
"John Grossbohlin" wrote in
message ...

"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...
Just picked up one of these at a sale and have a few questions.

It's in relatively good condition but I plan on giving it a thorough
tuning. I'm puzzled about the plane iron though - it appears that
it has been ground in a slight arc across the cutting edge as
opposed to a 90 degree cut. Is this normal for these planes? I've
seen some planes with a curved blade before but wondering what
effect it will have if I grind straight across.

2nd item - Although it's relatively rust free, the japanning is
chipped in quite a few places. Having it re-japanned ( is that a
word??) is not a viable option as is trying to do that myself. What
might be a good alternative - I was thinking some sort of epoxy
paint. Any ideas?


A slight camber on the iron is useful for correcting out of square
conditions and it keeps the corners from leaving tracks. By slight
we're talking about 1/64" at the ends as compared to the middle.

Personally, for a "user" vs. a decoration I wouldn't bother with
fixing the Japanning... but that's me.

John

Thanx John - Actually I agree about the japanning. I'll just clean it
up and leave it.

The iron isn't rounded at the corners, it's a smooth arc from side to
side. I'll grind it square and round the corners as I usually do.
Just wasn't familiar with this plane and wanted to be sure the arc
wasn't a design function.

It's called "camber" and it is a design function on a jointer plane. The
idea is that you can adjust an out of square edge by the position of the
plane rather than by having to tilt the plane or adjust the iron.




I've got one of my jack planes set up with a a slight arc. I find it useful
for taking off lots of wood in a hurry, while the reduced effective width of
cut lowers resistance. Can't imagine ever wanting to do that to a jointer
though.

diggerop

I bought and old mid teens Cor. Stanley 607 on ebay and cleaned it up with 1
part citric acid mixed with to parts water by volume. It's a great rust
remover. I use it on all the old tools I pick up that have rust on them.
Citric acid comes in a powder from the local beer or wine homebrewing store.
I scrub with a green pad and let it soak some more. Repeat until rust is
gone. I was tempted to re-japan with this stuff

http://www.libertyonthehudson.com/pontypool.html

but rust hasn't really come back and like John's mine is a user.


"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...
Just picked up one of these at a sale and have a few questions.

It's in relatively good condition but I plan on giving it a thorough
tuning. I'm puzzled about the plane iron though - it appears that it has
been ground in a slight arc across the cutting edge as opposed to a 90
degree cut. Is this normal for these planes? I've seen some planes with a
curved blade before but wondering what effect it will have if I grind
straight across.

2nd item - Although it's relatively rust free, the japanning is chipped
in quite a few places. Having it re-japanned ( is that a word??) is not a
viable option as is trying to do that myself. What might be a good
alternative - I was thinking some sort of epoxy paint. Any ideas?

Thanx,

Vic

10 parts water..

"Jim Hall" wrote in message
...
I bought and old mid teens Cor. Stanley 607 on ebay and cleaned it up with
1 part citric acid mixed with to parts water by volume. It's a great rust
remover. I use it on all the old tools I pick up that have rust on them.
Citric acid comes in a powder from the local beer or wine homebrewing
store. I scrub with a green pad and let it soak some more. Repeat until
rust is gone. I was tempted to re-japan with this stuff

http://www.libertyonthehudson.com/pontypool.html

but rust hasn't really come back and like John's mine is a user.


"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...
Just picked up one of these at a sale and have a few questions.

It's in relatively good condition but I plan on giving it a thorough
tuning. I'm puzzled about the plane iron though - it appears that it has
been ground in a slight arc across the cutting edge as opposed to a 90
degree cut. Is this normal for these planes? I've seen some planes with
a curved blade before but wondering what effect it will have if I grind
straight across.

2nd item - Although it's relatively rust free, the japanning is chipped
in quite a few places. Having it re-japanned ( is that a word??) is not
a viable option as is trying to do that myself. What might be a good
alternative - I was thinking some sort of epoxy paint. Any ideas?

Thanx,

Vic

On Oct 25, 12:46*am, "Jim Hall"
wrote:

I was tempted to re-japan with this stuff

http://www.libertyonthehudson.com/pontypool.html

My 1927 edition of Henley's Formulas For Home and Workshop has this
for Japan Black.

12 oz amber
This is the stumbling block - the price of amber resin must have gone
up quite a bit, relatively, in the 80+ years since the book was
published.
2 oz asphaltum
http://www.texasbeyondhistory.net/co...asphaltum.html
Here's a liquid version, but Henley's is probably referring to the
solid.
http://www.dickblick.com/products/asphaltum-liquid/
Fuse by heat and add 1/2 pint boiled linseed oil and 2 oz rosin.
When cooling, add 16 oz of oil of turpentine.

One day I'll make some. Sometimes I'd rather spend the same amount of
money (and not put a price on my time) just to do something new that's
old.

R

diggerop wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Vic Baron wrote:
"John Grossbohlin" wrote in
message ...

"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...
Just picked up one of these at a sale and have a few questions.

It's in relatively good condition but I plan on giving it a
thorough tuning. I'm puzzled about the plane iron though - it
appears that it has been ground in a slight arc across the
cutting edge as opposed to a 90 degree cut. Is this normal for
these planes? I've seen some planes with a curved blade before
but wondering what effect it will have if I grind straight across.

2nd item - Although it's relatively rust free, the japanning is
chipped in quite a few places. Having it re-japanned ( is that a
word??) is not a viable option as is trying to do that myself.
What might be a good alternative - I was thinking some sort of
epoxy paint. Any ideas?


A slight camber on the iron is useful for correcting out of square
conditions and it keeps the corners from leaving tracks. By slight
we're talking about 1/64" at the ends as compared to the middle.

Personally, for a "user" vs. a decoration I wouldn't bother with
fixing the Japanning... but that's me.

John

Thanx John - Actually I agree about the japanning. I'll just clean
it up and leave it.

The iron isn't rounded at the corners, it's a smooth arc from side
to side. I'll grind it square and round the corners as I usually do.
Just wasn't familiar with this plane and wanted to be sure the arc
wasn't a design function.

It's called "camber" and it is a design function on a jointer plane.
The idea is that you can adjust an out of square edge by the
position of the plane rather than by having to tilt the plane or
adjust the iron.




I've got one of my jack planes set up with a a slight arc. I find it
useful for taking off lots of wood in a hurry, while the reduced
effective width of cut lowers resistance. Can't imagine ever wanting
to do that to a jointer though.

You want it really slight--just enough to be able to adjust the angle of the
edge without tilting the plane. The idea isn't to remove stock quickly, the
idea is to get a square edge easily.

On 25 Oct, 04:46, "Jim Hall" wrote:

*I was tempted to re-japan with this stuff

http://www.libertyonthehudson.com/pontypool.html

"DO NOT STOVE under any circumstances. "

So that's not Pontypool japan then.

"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...


"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
...

"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...
Just picked up one of these at a sale and have a few questions.

It's in relatively good condition but I plan on giving it a thorough
tuning. I'm puzzled about the plane iron though - it appears that it has
been ground in a slight arc across the cutting edge as opposed to a 90
degree cut. Is this normal for these planes? I've seen some planes with
a curved blade before but wondering what effect it will have if I grind
straight across.

2nd item - Although it's relatively rust free, the japanning is chipped
in quite a few places. Having it re-japanned ( is that a word??) is not
a viable option as is trying to do that myself. What might be a good
alternative - I was thinking some sort of epoxy paint. Any ideas?


A slight camber on the iron is useful for correcting out of square
conditions and it keeps the corners from leaving tracks. By slight we're
talking about 1/64" at the ends as compared to the middle.

Personally, for a "user" vs. a decoration I wouldn't bother with fixing
the Japanning... but that's me.

John

Thanx John - Actually I agree about the japanning. I'll just clean it up
and leave it.

The iron isn't rounded at the corners, it's a smooth arc from side to
side. I'll grind it square and round the corners as I usually do. Just
wasn't familiar with this plane and wanted to be sure the arc wasn't a
design function.

The smooth arc is what you want... that way with a fine setting the corners
are inside the body of the plane and don't dig in.

John

Yeah, not the original asphaltum application method. I can't see cooking
asphaltum in the kitchen oven.. In the end, scratched both.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 25 Oct, 04:46, "Jim Hall" wrote:

I was tempted to re-japan with this stuff

http://www.libertyonthehudson.com/pontypool.html

"DO NOT STOVE under any circumstances. "

So that's not Pontypool japan then.