Tightening up the mouths on both a #3 and #5 Stanley. Want the #3 at
about .020 and the #5 at about .125. In both cases the frog adjusting
screw bottoms out befoe I get the mouths that tight, with just a hint
of iron below the sole. So I just took the screws out and moved the
frogs forward manually. That worked fine, but it would be nice to use
the screws for more precise adjustment.

Question 1 - Is this "too long" screw normal? I suspect it may due to
the irons (both original Stanleys, ca. 1930s) being short from many
honings - likely?

Question 2 - I can fix it by either shimmimg under the adjustment yoke
(moving it further aft) ot grinding 3 or 4 threads off the adjustment
screws. Which is preferable? BTW, these are both users, not
collectables, so staying original is not way up there.

Thanks for any thoughts.

Regards.

Tom

Tom Banes wrote:
snip
Which is preferable? BTW, these are both users, not
collectables, so staying original is not way up there.

If you haven't already, please read Jeff's website, especially the part
on fettling before you do anything irrevocable.

Dave in fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
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http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.patinatools.org

On Thu, 30 Jun 2005 17:05:18 -0500, Tom Banes wrote:

Tightening up the mouths on both a #3 and #5 Stanley. Want the #3 at
about .020 and the #5 at about .125. In both cases the frog adjusting
screw bottoms out befoe I get the mouths that tight, with just a hint
of iron below the sole. So I just took the screws out and moved the
frogs forward manually. That worked fine, but it would be nice to use
the screws for more precise adjustment.

Something's not right. If you back off your chipbreaker, you'll get more
blade through the mouth. The frog adjusting screw is happiest when you
loosen the frog attachment bolts. It's not doing what you think it's
doing, I think. Loosen the frog attachment bolts a hair, put everything
back together, check the mouth opening, lather rinse repeat. When you've
got it as tight as you want, tighten the bolts down. And read the link
another poster mentioned.

--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com

On Thu, 30 Jun 2005 17:05:18 -0500, the opaque Tom Banes
spake:

Tightening up the mouths on both a #3 and #5 Stanley. Want the #3 at
about .020 and the #5 at about .125. In both cases the frog adjusting
screw bottoms out befoe I get the mouths that tight, with just a hint
of iron below the sole. So I just took the screws out and moved the
frogs forward manually. That worked fine, but it would be nice to use
the screws for more precise adjustment.

Question 1 - Is this "too long" screw normal? I suspect it may due to
the irons (both original Stanleys, ca. 1930s) being short from many
honings - likely?

Two things would normally cause something like that. First, if the
plane was refinished, excess paint could build up in the frog holddown
holes. Second, the excess sanding on the frog and its track could
make the standard screws appear too long. You can check for the first
and repair that.


Question 2 - I can fix it by either shimmimg under the adjustment yoke
(moving it further aft) ot grinding 3 or 4 threads off the adjustment
screws. Which is preferable? BTW, these are both users, not
collectables, so staying original is not way up there.

THREE OR FOUR THREADS? Something's missing there or the wrong frogs
are in those planes, Tom. Shimming the frog might be my choice.


- This product cruelly tested on defenseless furry animals -
--------------------------------------------------------
http://diversify.com Web App & Database Programming

After you have checked on the other things that have been posted, try a
thicker blade - that will push the frog back and give you back your range of
adjustment. I put a 1/8" thick blade in my #7 and had to open the mouth to
get clearance but it sure works well.
Craig

"Tom Banes" wrote in message
...
Tightening up the mouths on both a #3 and #5 Stanley. Want the #3 at
about .020 and the #5 at about .125. In both cases the frog adjusting
screw bottoms out befoe I get the mouths that tight, with just a hint
of iron below the sole. So I just took the screws out and moved the
frogs forward manually. That worked fine, but it would be nice to use
the screws for more precise adjustment.

After you have checked on the other things that have been posted, try a
thicker blade - that will push the frog back and give you back your range of adjustment. I put a 1/8" thick blade in my #7 and had
to open the mouth to get clearance but it sure works well.
Craig


What brand of blade might I ask?

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Thanks to all for the input. As usual the issue was not what it
appeared. "Screw too long or hole too short?" The latter, in this
case. The adjustment screws had obviously never been fully screwed in.
By taking the frog and tote off to get a clear shot at the screw,
using some machine oil, and running the screw in and out multiple
times (I didn't have a tap that matched the Stanlley threads),
flushing with WD40, I was able to getthe screws in both planes to seat
fully. The frogs adjust just fine now.

10 minutes of thinking as a result of your responses and all is well.

Thanks.

Tom


Question 1 - Is this "too long" screw normal? I suspect it may due to
the irons (both original Stanleys, ca. 1930s) being short from many
honings - likely?

Question 2 - I can fix it by either shimmimg under the adjustment yoke
(moving it further aft) ot grinding 3 or 4 threads off the adjustment
screws. Which is preferable? BTW, these are both users, not
collectables, so staying original is not way up there.

Thanks for any thoughts.

Regards.

Tom