I picked up a stanley #8 jointer plane over the weekend.

It looks in good shape but the blade needs to be tuned and sharpened.
The question is how. I have a slow speed grinder and a tormek. None of
the attachments that I have fit the width of the blade

william kossack wrote:
| I picked up a stanley #8 jointer plane over the weekend.
|
| It looks in good shape but the blade needs to be tuned and
| sharpened. The question is how. I have a slow speed grinder and a
| tormek. None of the attachments that I have fit the width of the
| blade

DAGGS: rec.woodworking "scary sharp"

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
william kossack wrote:
| I picked up a stanley #8 jointer plane over the weekend.
|
| It looks in good shape but the blade needs to be tuned and
| sharpened. The question is how. I have a slow speed grinder and a
| tormek. None of the attachments that I have fit the width of the
| blade

DAGGS: rec.woodworking "scary sharp"

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/


See if you can find a description of Mike Dunbar's scary sharp method, his
technique helps with free hand honing. It essentially is holding the iron in
front of you at full contact with the bevel edge and moving the iron
laterally be rocking your body back and forth side ways. It works!

A dull plane is a terrible thing, you should not be exposed to it. If
you'll send it to me, I'll relieve you of this serious problem.

Old Guy


"william kossack" wrote in message
...
I picked up a stanley #8 jointer plane over the weekend.

It looks in good shape but the blade needs to be tuned and sharpened. The
question is how. I have a slow speed grinder and a tormek. None of the
attachments that I have fit the width of the blade

the main problem is the end of the blade has been somehow rounded. I'm
going to have to remove maybe a 1/16th of an inch of the blade to get a
straight edge to then sharpen

Old guy wrote:
A dull plane is a terrible thing, you should not be exposed to it. If
you'll send it to me, I'll relieve you of this serious problem.

Old Guy


"william kossack" wrote in message
...
I picked up a stanley #8 jointer plane over the weekend.

It looks in good shape but the blade needs to be tuned and sharpened. The
question is how. I have a slow speed grinder and a tormek. None of the
attachments that I have fit the width of the blade

william kossack wrote in
:

the main problem is the end of the blade has been somehow rounded.
I'm going to have to remove maybe a 1/16th of an inch of the blade to
get a straight edge to then sharpen


Rounded? Or cambered? It's not unusual to camber, or slightly round the
corners of the plane blade, so as not to leave 'plane tracks'.

David Charlesworth describes a simple method for that. Check the hand tool
message archives at woodcentral.com

Patriarch

Patriarch wrote:


Rounded? Or cambered? It's not unusual to camber, or slightly round the
corners of the plane blade, so as not to leave 'plane tracks'.

Scrub/Jack plane - cambered - sure. #8 joiner? Don't think so.

charlie b

Lowell Holmes wrote:


"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
william kossack wrote:
| I picked up a stanley #8 jointer plane over the weekend.
|

See if you can find a description of Mike Dunbar's scary sharp method, his
technique helps with free hand honing. It essentially is holding the iron in
front of you at full contact with the bevel edge and moving the iron
laterally be rocking your body back and forth side ways. It works!

But an edge sharpened laterally is more likely to break off as the scratches
are running the width of the blade. Vertical sharpening, with the scratches
running the length of the blade, gives a stronger edge.

--
It's turtles, all the way down

"charlieb" wrote in message
...
Patriarch wrote:


Rounded? Or cambered? It's not unusual to camber, or slightly round the
corners of the plane blade, so as not to leave 'plane tracks'.

Scrub/Jack plane - cambered - sure. #8 joiner? Don't think so.

charlie b

Christopher Schwarz says to camber a jointer, as does Jeff Gorman. I haven't
done it yet, but intend to. :-)

I would say that Lie Nielsen concurs since Schearz is on one of their DVD's
and that's one place he said to do it.

Larry Blanchard wrote in
:

Lowell Holmes wrote:


"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
william kossack wrote:
| I picked up a stanley #8 jointer plane over the weekend.
|

See if you can find a description of Mike Dunbar's scary sharp
method, his technique helps with free hand honing. It essentially is
holding the iron in front of you at full contact with the bevel edge
and moving the iron laterally be rocking your body back and forth
side ways. It works!

But an edge sharpened laterally is more likely to break off as the
scratches are running the width of the blade. Vertical sharpening,
with the scratches running the length of the blade, gives a stronger
edge.


When I'm done, there ARE no scratches. Just a glistening mirror finish
that looks great in the tool shrine.

You don't want to actually USE those puppies, do you? ;-)

Patriarch

"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 136...
Larry Blanchard wrote in
:

Lowell Holmes wrote:

But an edge sharpened laterally is more likely to break off as the
scratches are running the width of the blade. Vertical sharpening,
with the scratches running the length of the blade, gives a stronger
edge.


When I'm done, there ARE no scratches. Just a glistening mirror finish
that looks great in the tool shrine.

You don't want to actually USE those puppies, do you? ;-)

Patriarch

I didn't make myself understood. You sharpen the iron the normal way. The
lateral movement is how you move your arms. I always honed by pushing the
iron or chisel away from me and I avoided rocking the iron or chisel by
pushing it to the end of the hone.

The method on the DVD that came with my Norton water stones shows how to
hold the iron dead flat on its bevel, but instead of pushing the iron away
from your body, you rotate the iron 0 degrees an move your arms and the iron
from right to left. You do this by rocking your body sideways. The scratches
do not run the width of the blade. As with yours, my irons and chisels are
polished to a mirror finish.

I think Mike Dunbar introduced the side to side action with his scary sharp
method.

Patriarch wrote:

But an edge sharpened laterally is more likely to break off as the
scratches are running the width of the blade.**Vertical*sharpening,
with the scratches running the length of the blade, gives a stronger
edge.


When I'm done, there ARE no scratches.**Just*a*glistening*mirror*finish
that looks great in the tool shrine.

Now look under a microscope :-).

But another poster pointed out that I misunderstood the technique described.
The blade is sharpened in the normal way.

--
It's turtles, all the way down

Lowell Holmes wrote:

"charlieb" wrote in message
...
Patriarch wrote:


Rounded? Or cambered? It's not unusual to camber, or slightly round the
corners of the plane blade, so as not to leave 'plane tracks'.

Scrub/Jack plane - cambered - sure. #8 joiner? Don't think so.

charlie b

Christopher Schwarz says to camber a jointer, as does Jeff Gorman. I haven't
done it yet, but intend to. :-)

I would say that Lie Nielsen concurs since Schearz is on one of their DVD's
and that's one place he said to do it.


A #7 & #8 are primarily used for getting the edge a board flat and
straight- for edge joining two boards - hence "joiner/jointer" name.
Resulting surface doesn't have to be square to the face of the
boards - IF the two boards are against each other and "joined"
at the same time.

If there's a slight curve / camber in the iron it should produce
a slight concave surface. That means not much contact between
the two boards being edge glued together - and a very weak joint.

Am I missing something?

charlie b

"charlieb" wrote in message
...
snip

A #7 & #8 are primarily used for getting the edge a board flat and
straight- for edge joining two boards - hence "joiner/jointer" name.
Resulting surface doesn't have to be square to the face of the
boards - IF the two boards are against each other and "joined"
at the same time.

If there's a slight curve / camber in the iron it should produce
a slight concave surface. That means not much contact between
the two boards being edge glued together - and a very weak joint.

Am I missing something?

charlie b

I understand your concern. I haven't done it yet. I have an extra iron that
I intend to camber and try. Schwarz states in his video that the amount of
camber you put into a jointer iron is much less than you put in a smoother.
He states that the amount of hollow in the edge (of the glue joint) is
barely discernable.
I'm not saying it is the thing to do, but just pointing out there are people
that do recommend it. I intend to experiment with it. :-)

Patriarch wrote:
william kossack wrote in
:

the main problem is the end of the blade has been somehow rounded.
I'm going to have to remove maybe a 1/16th of an inch of the blade to
get a straight edge to then sharpen


Rounded? Or cambered? It's not unusual to camber, or slightly round the
corners of the plane blade, so as not to leave 'plane tracks'.

David Charlesworth describes a simple method for that. Check the hand tool
message archives at woodcentral.com

Patriarch

I'll have to look at it again but I thought it was more than just the edges

On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 21:23:30 -0600, william kossack
wrote:

I picked up a stanley #8 jointer plane over the weekend.

Any guesses as to what this beastie is?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MEWA:IT&ih=003

My best guess is that someone dropped their #8 and broke it in half.
Rather than welding or strapping the mouth as usual, they then moved the
handles and frog to the undamaged rear section of the body and cut a new
mouth.

On Jul 17, 11:23 pm, william kossack wrote:
I picked up a stanley #8 jointer plane over the weekend.

It looks in good shape but the blade needs to be tuned and sharpened.
The question is how. I have a slow speed grinder and a tormek. None of
the attachments that I have fit the width of the blade

Your cap iron does. Use it as a "jig" with your slow speed grinder
by
attaching it sideways to the bevel side of your iron, far enough from
the edge that you can let it ride across the front of the toolrest.

I hope you're not quenching the hot blade in water. That makes
the steel crumbly by shocking it. Better to go slow and "quench"
with the air draft from the spinning wheel. You can also press the
blade against a piece of flat cast iron, like a tablesaw top. Note
that
coarse white vitrified bond aluminum oxide cuts coolest. Gray
carborundum is meant for mild steel, not high carbon.