Shelves of 3/4 ply, need to have dividers every 2"

The supply store did not have anything like traditional 1/4 HB for the
dividers, I ended up buying some 3/16 ply to use. Maybe a mistake.

How would you cut a 3/16 groove in the 3/4 boards? (I need them every 2",
making a total of 32 slots)

My sawblade is 1/8, my smallest router bit is 1/4 sigh

Suggestions please!

markndawoods

Markndawoods wrote:
....
How would you cut a 3/16 groove in the 3/4 boards? (I need them every 2",
making a total of 32 slots)

My sawblade is 1/8, my smallest router bit is 1/4 sigh

....

Most (all?) dado sets will only give you 1/4" w/ two outside cutters so
buy a 3/16" router bit is probably the most effective choice.

Otherwise, you'll have to double-pass on the saw which is twice the
work; twice the chance to make an error.

Alternative is use 1/8" grove and rabbet the top/bottom of the panels to
fit.

--

On Sep 27, 8:44*pm, "Markndawoods" wrote:
Shelves of 3/4 ply, need to have dividers every 2"

The supply store did not have anything like traditional 1/4 HB for the
dividers, I ended up buying some 3/16 ply to use. Maybe a mistake.

How would you cut a 3/16 groove in the 3/4 boards? (I need them every 2",
making a total of 32 slots)

My sawblade is 1/8, my smallest router bit is 1/4 sigh

Suggestions please!

markndawoods

Do you have a sled for your saw?

On Sep 27, 8:47*pm, dpb wrote:


Alternative is use 1/8" grove and rabbet the top/bottom of the panels to
fit.

That'd be the way I would do it.
The nice thing about that is that the edge of the dado gets covered
and that in itself allows you a bit of slack.
Easier assembly.

On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 17:44:42 -0700, "Markndawoods"
wrote:

Shelves of 3/4 ply, need to have dividers every 2"

The supply store did not have anything like traditional 1/4 HB for the
dividers, I ended up buying some 3/16 ply to use. Maybe a mistake.

How would you cut a 3/16 groove in the 3/4 boards? (I need them every 2",
making a total of 32 slots)

My sawblade is 1/8, my smallest router bit is 1/4 sigh

Suggestions please!

markndawoods



When your fence is parallel to the body of the blade, the blade will
cut 1/8". If you make the fence unparallel to the blade, the blade
will make a wider cut.


Regards,

Tom Watson
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/

Tom Watson wrote:
On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 17:44:42 -0700, "Markndawoods"
wrote:

Shelves of 3/4 ply, need to have dividers every 2"

The supply store did not have anything like traditional 1/4 HB for the
dividers, I ended up buying some 3/16 ply to use. Maybe a mistake.

How would you cut a 3/16 groove in the 3/4 boards? (I need them every 2",
making a total of 32 slots)

My sawblade is 1/8, my smallest router bit is 1/4 sigh

Suggestions please!

markndawoods



When your fence is parallel to the body of the blade, the blade will
cut 1/8". If you make the fence unparallel to the blade, the blade
will make a wider cut.

I suppose, but that's a pretty bizarre technique. Probably not so good
either if you're looking for a really clean cut with perfectly straight
sides (which may not matter in this case), but an interesting suggestion
nonetheless.

--
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Robatoy wrote:
On Sep 27, 8:44 pm, "Markndawoods" wrote:
Shelves of 3/4 ply, need to have dividers every 2"

The supply store did not have anything like traditional 1/4 HB for the
dividers, I ended up buying some 3/16 ply to use. Maybe a mistake.

How would you cut a 3/16 groove in the 3/4 boards? (I need them every 2",
making a total of 32 slots)

My sawblade is 1/8, my smallest router bit is 1/4 sigh

Suggestions please!

markndawoods

Do you have a sled for your saw?

If you have a sled, you could drill a 1/8" hole in the base (not all the
way through) near the fence at a point 2" from the blade, then drop a
short piece of 1/8" rod in the hole so that it protrudes up from the
sled surface a short distance (somewhat less then the depth of your dado
cuts). Position the board against the pin, make a cut, then reposition
the board such the pin protrudes up into the slot you just cut, then
repeat as necessary. Drill another hole close to the first one, but
1/16" further away from the blade, reposition the pin in that hole, then
repeat the process, making sure to snug the board up against the pin
each time (since the new slot will now be 1/16" wider than the pin).
Test the positioning of that second hole on some scrap first; you may
need to reposition the pin by drilling a different hole if the width of
your dado is incorrect.

--
If it ain't perfect, improve it...
But don't break it while you're fixin' it!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"Markndawoods" wrote:

How would you cut a 3/16 groove in the 3/4 boards? (I need them every
2",
making a total of 32 slots)

A sled and a 1/8" cleat attached to sled offset from saw cut by 2".

Two passes get 3/16" cut, 2" offset insures repetitive spacing of
3/16" cuts.

Lew

On Sep 27, 10:14*pm, Steve Turner
wrote:
Robatoy wrote:
On Sep 27, 8:44 pm, "Markndawoods" wrote:
Shelves of 3/4 ply, need to have dividers every 2"

The supply store did not have anything like traditional 1/4 HB for the
dividers, I ended up buying some 3/16 ply to use. Maybe a mistake.

How would you cut a 3/16 groove in the 3/4 boards? (I need them every 2",
making a total of 32 slots)

My sawblade is 1/8, my smallest router bit is 1/4 sigh

Suggestions please!

markndawoods

Do you have a sled for your saw?

If you have a sled, you could drill a 1/8" hole in the base (not all the
way through) near the fence at a point 2" from the blade, then drop a
short piece of 1/8" rod in the hole so that it protrudes up from the
sled surface a short distance (somewhat less then the depth of your dado
cuts). *Position the board against the pin, make a cut, then reposition
the board such the pin protrudes up into the slot you just cut, then
repeat as necessary. *Drill another hole close to the first one, but
1/16" further away from the blade, reposition the pin in that hole, then
repeat the process, making sure to snug the board up against the pin
each time (since the new slot will now be 1/16" wider than the pin).
Test the positioning of that second hole on some scrap first; you may
need to reposition the pin by drilling a different hole if the width of
your dado is incorrect.

--
If it ain't perfect, improve it...
But don't break it while you're fixin' it!
To reply, eat the taco.http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Yup, got it. That would work nicely.
If your sled is wide enough, do both top and bottom shelves at the
same time, as one slab and then rip it lengthwise into two pieces.

"Markndawoods" wrote in
:

Shelves of 3/4 ply, need to have dividers every 2"

The supply store did not have anything like traditional 1/4 HB for the
dividers, I ended up buying some 3/16 ply to use. Maybe a mistake.

How would you cut a 3/16 groove in the 3/4 boards? (I need them every
2", making a total of 32 slots)

My sawblade is 1/8, my smallest router bit is 1/4 sigh

Suggestions please!

markndawoods



There's two ways to make pieces fit in grooves: Either enlarge the size
of the groove, or reduce the size of the piece. I'll leave this to your
determination as to it's usefulness, but you could possibly reduce the
size of the piece to the 1/8" required for your dividers. I'd only do
the edges of the ply that go in the groove.

This is probably a more viable technique for larger dividers where the
reduction is sorta like a dado & tongue and groove.

Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

"Markndawoods" wrote in message
. ..
Shelves of 3/4 ply, need to have dividers every 2"

The supply store did not have anything like traditional 1/4 HB for the
dividers, I ended up buying some 3/16 ply to use. Maybe a mistake.

How would you cut a 3/16 groove in the 3/4 boards? (I need them every 2",
making a total of 32 slots)

My sawblade is 1/8, my smallest router bit is 1/4 sigh

Suggestions please!

markndawoods


Make your slots 1/8" wide with your blade. Them with a straight router bit
shave 1/16" off of one side of the 3/16" plywood the depth of your slot.

I do this all the time, did it last week to make a so called 1/4" plywood
panel fit in a tight slot.

Or use a 1/6" spacer between your work and the fence. Make a pass, remove
the spacer and make the pass again.
Plastic laminate will probably work.

On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 20:58:32 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

Tom Watson wrote:

When your fence is parallel to the body of the blade, the blade will
cut 1/8". If you make the fence unparallel to the blade, the blade
will make a wider cut.




I suppose, but that's a pretty bizarre technique. Probably not so good
either if you're looking for a really clean cut with perfectly straight
sides (which may not matter in this case), but an interesting suggestion
nonetheless.


It is actually a common technique - used for a less common purpose.



Regards,

Tom Watson
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/

"Tom Watson" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 20:58:32 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

Tom Watson wrote:

When your fence is parallel to the body of the blade, the blade will
cut 1/8". If you make the fence unparallel to the blade, the blade
will make a wider cut.




I suppose, but that's a pretty bizarre technique. Probably not so good
either if you're looking for a really clean cut with perfectly straight
sides (which may not matter in this case), but an interesting suggestion
nonetheless.


It is actually a common technique - used for a less common purpose.


Absolutely, think of it as a simple and slight "cove" molding being made on
the TS.

Tom Watson wrote:
On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 20:58:32 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

Tom Watson wrote:

When your fence is parallel to the body of the blade, the blade will
cut 1/8". If you make the fence unparallel to the blade, the blade
will make a wider cut.



I suppose, but that's a pretty bizarre technique. Probably not so good
either if you're looking for a really clean cut with perfectly straight
sides (which may not matter in this case), but an interesting suggestion
nonetheless.


It is actually a common technique - used for a less common purpose.

Sure, commonly used to cut coves, and as long as he's only widening the kerf by 1/16" it
should work fine. Not so good for 3/4" dadoes though. :-)

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Tom Watson wrote:
On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 20:58:32 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

Tom Watson wrote:

When your fence is parallel to the body of the blade, the blade will
cut 1/8". If you make the fence unparallel to the blade, the blade
will make a wider cut.



I suppose, but that's a pretty bizarre technique. Probably not so good
either if you're looking for a really clean cut with perfectly straight
sides (which may not matter in this case), but an interesting suggestion
nonetheless.


It is actually a common technique - used for a less common purpose.



Regards,

Tom Watson
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/


I made a big cove sut for some custom crown molding that way.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sep 27, 8:44*pm, "Markndawoods" wrote:
Shelves of 3/4 ply, need to have dividers every 2"

The supply store did not have anything like traditional 1/4 HB for the
dividers, I ended up buying some 3/16 ply to use. Maybe a mistake.

How would you cut a 3/16 groove in the 3/4 boards? (I need them every 2",
making a total of 32 slots)

My sawblade is 1/8, my smallest router bit is 1/4 sigh

Suggestions please!

markndawoods

I just did this for a shoe storage unit. I needed 96 3/16" wide 3/16"
deep 16" long dados. I made a jig to use with my router which had a
1/8" downspiral bit and a 3/8" collar installed. My jig would make 3
dados before I had to reposition it.
Worked like a champ.
Ted

On Sep 28, 11:54*am, Stuart wrote:
In article ,
* *Markndawoods wrote:

Shelves of 3/4 ply, need to have dividers every 2"
..., I ended up buying some 3/16 ply to use. Maybe a mistake.
How would you cut a 3/16 groove in the 3/4 boards? (I need them every
2", making a total of 32 slots)

First measure the thickness of your plywood. 3/16" is nominal and will
vary slightly even with the same sheet. Measure it imperial and metric
then buy a router cutter to suit.

Or get a wobble dado blade and keep fiddling with the dial until
it hits the right thickness of cut. I get better cuts with a table
saw than with small router bits.

Measuring is always good; I like feeler gages for slot-too-wide
determinations.

In any case, the glue in your plywood is gonna gunk the blade; get
a brass brush and suitable cleaner (my preference is lye), you'll
need it to keep the cuts clean.

Shelves of 3/4 ply, need to have dividers every 2"

The supply store did not have anything like traditional 1/4 HB for the
dividers, I ended up buying some 3/16 ply to use. Maybe a mistake.

How would you cut a 3/16 groove in the 3/4 boards? (I need them every 2",
making a total of 32 slots)

My sawblade is 1/8, my smallest router bit is 1/4 sigh

Suggestions please!

markndawoods

Ok, so here's what I did...

Cut each slot on the TS, standard 1/8" blade, single pass. Took each divider
to the router table and passed the edges over to shave off 1/32 on each
side. Could have taken 1/16 off one side, but hey, it was quick and easy and
now they are centered.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

markndawoods

Check your 7 1/4" circular saw blades, you may find a matching pair
that can be stacked together, perhaps with a shim in the middle, for 3/16"


--
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

In article ,
Tom Watson wrote:
...snipped...

When your fence is parallel to the body of the blade, the blade will
cut 1/8". If you make the fence unparallel to the blade, the blade
will make a wider cut.


Regards,

Tom Watson

That's a nice trick, Tom. I'll remember that one!


Thanks


--
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

Larry W wrote:

In article ,
Tom Watson wrote:
...snipped...

When your fence is parallel to the body of the blade, the blade will
cut 1/8". If you make the fence unparallel to the blade, the blade
will make a wider cut.


Regards,

Tom Watson


That's a nice trick, Tom. I'll remember that one!


Thanks



If you use the method make sure you keep a firm hold on the stock. The
kerf is widened by the back of the blade causing a tendency for the
stock to lift.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA