Well, I went to Lee Valley Tools and picked up the Kreg Mitre Gauge Tuesday.
Cost $169 CA before taxes. I briefly considered the Incra Mitre 1000SE which
was exactly the same price. However the Incra was considerably heavier, it
had more hardware behind the fence which would tend to make it more likely
to fall off the edge of a table saw and I could see immediately that it had
a slightly higher learning curve to properly operate it. Not that the
learning curve was a detriment or anything like that, because I'm sure it
would have added a little extra capability over the Kreg, but I was looking
for simple, easy to use and easy to assemble. The Kreg had that.

Anyway I used the mitre yesterday. What a difference over the stock 6"
mitre. With the tape measure properly calibrated, the flip stop properly
set, I was able to easily knock off a good 80% of the time needed to cut
tenons to an exact length. No more of this sneaking up on a cut line and
accidentally going over it with an attendant amount of cursing. I cut in two
hours what had previously taken me eight. My buddy who to date has been a
little afraid of the tablesaw and never would have considered trying to cut
tenons was actually eager to try it out for himself, and he cut them
perfectly.

It's nice when you buy a tool that meets expectations. It's really nice when
you buy one that easily surpasses those expectations and does the job in one
fifth of the time. I should have bought one of these mitres years ago!

Cool!

I have a question for you. The adjustable flip stop, is it held in place by
a "T" style bolt or a regular hex head bolt? The bolt that slides inside
the fence track top slot.

"Leon" wrote in message
I have a question for you. The adjustable flip stop, is it held in place
by
a "T" style bolt or a regular hex head bolt? The bolt that slides inside
the fence track top slot.

It's held in place by a "T" style bolt. However, it would likely be
interchangeable with a hex head bolt since all fence track slots appear to
be the same size.

I've got a question for you. You've had your Kreg for awhile now. Have you
used any of the track slots to add some type of optional appliance and if so
what were they? Also, have you added a sacrificial wooden fence by any
chance?

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
I have a question for you. The adjustable flip stop, is it held in place
by
a "T" style bolt or a regular hex head bolt? The bolt that slides inside
the fence track top slot.

It's held in place by a "T" style bolt. However, it would likely be
interchangeable with a hex head bolt since all fence track slots appear to
be the same size.

You dont want to use the hex bolts for the sliding stop, mine came that way
and was later advised to use the "T" bolt. The T bolt sldes back and forth
down the track much more smoothly AND it stays where you want when you
tighten the thumb nut to lock the stop in position. With the hex nut the
stop slid irratically AND creeped a bit when locking down with the thumb
nut. I just wanted to make you aware of this for future additions to
sliding bolts in slots. ;~)



I've got a question for you. You've had your Kreg for awhile now. Have you
used any of the track slots to add some type of optional appliance and if
so
what were they? Also, have you added a sacrificial wooden fence by any
chance?

No additions yet! BUT for a coulple of years now I have been wanting to add
a sacrificial fence. Big project. LOL I want to add a scarificial fence
and cover the face of it with PSA sand paper to add more grip to the
surface. IIRC the later models have a break away lower section to the stop
so that it will fot properly over a wooden fence. It is indicated by a
crimped spot near the bottom to ease breaking away.

So far I have only cut into the fence a couple of times when forgetting to
adjust the fence distance from the blade and setting the gauge to 45
degrees.

Typically only uwe the Kreg for squaring stock and cutting a few shorter
pieces. I suspect you could add a longer fence similar to the Incra styles
for longer cut off capacity.

"Leon" wrote in message
You dont want to use the hex bolts for the sliding stop, mine came that
way
and was later advised to use the "T" bolt. The T bolt slides back and
forth

On my model, the fence itself is held to the mitre by two hex head bolts. If
it's the same way with yours, have you considered replacing them with T
bolts?

No additions yet! BUT for a couple of years now I have been wanting to
add
a sacrificial fence. Big project. LOL I want to add a sacrificial fence
and cover the face of it with PSA sand paper to add more grip to the

Tool Reviews mentions that. He just glued some sandpaper directly to the
aluminum.

As to adding additions or jigs to the fance, I'm considering attaching a
bottle holder so I can safely put down my beer when I want to cut something.


so that it will fit properly over a wooden fence. It is indicated by a
crimped spot near the bottom to ease breaking away.

Yup, my model has that breakaway piece. I am am considering buying the
square production stop for about $20.

"Leon" wrote in message
No additions yet! BUT for a coulple of years now I have been wanting to
add
a sacrificial fence. Big project. LOL I want to add a sacrificial fence
and cover the face of it with PSA sand paper to add more grip to the
surface.

I forgot to mention, it immediately occurred to that a sacrificial fence
would come in handy when I was cross cutting finer woods and wanted to
prevent tear out.

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
You dont want to use the hex bolts for the sliding stop, mine came that
way
and was later advised to use the "T" bolt. The T bolt slides back and
forth

On my model, the fence itself is held to the mitre by two hex head bolts.
If
it's the same way with yours, have you considered replacing them with T
bolts?

I had to take a look. Yes I did! and I used the Brass T bolts so every
thing slides creamy.


No additions yet! BUT for a couple of years now I have been wanting to
add
a sacrificial fence. Big project. LOL I want to add a sacrificial
fence
and cover the face of it with PSA sand paper to add more grip to the

Tool Reviews mentions that. He just glued some sandpaper directly to the
aluminum.

As to adding additions or jigs to the fance, I'm considering attaching a
bottle holder so I can safely put down my beer when I want to cut
something.


so that it will fit properly over a wooden fence. It is indicated by a
crimped spot near the bottom to ease breaking away.

Yup, my model has that breakaway piece. I am am considering buying the
square production stop for about $20.

I considered that stop too, and I'll say this again, I mostly use mine to
square stock. The flip up comes in handy, the production stop would have to
be removed IIRC. I try to use my Dubby's for production cutting.

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
No additions yet! BUT for a coulple of years now I have been wanting to
add
a sacrificial fence. Big project. LOL I want to add a sacrificial
fence
and cover the face of it with PSA sand paper to add more grip to the
surface.

I forgot to mention, it immediately occurred to that a sacrificial fence
would come in handy when I was cross cutting finer woods and wanted to
prevent tear out.


Especially for that and indicating the exact cut location for measuring down
to locate the stop. I still have not attached the tape measure to my
fence. ;~)