I am going to get my first "real" table saw, not the bench top type but
floor model, now here is the question, left or right tilt, what are the
pro's and con's of each??

Cheers,
Thomas Cleveland

now here is the question, left or right tilt, what are the
pro's and con's of each??


I just recently switched from a right tilt contractor-style saw to a
left tilt cabinet saw. The big advantage of the left tilt is that you
can leave the rip fence on the right side of the blade, and the blade
tilts away from it. This arrangement prevents you from trapping your
cutoff between the blade and fence - a sure recipie for kickback.

With a right tilt saw, you have to move the rip fence to the right of
the blade - and then you're working from an unfamiliar position. I
always felt uncomfortable making cuts like this.

Any thoughts on what brand/model saws you are considering?

With a right tilt saw, you have to move the rip fence to the right of
the blade -

Oops, my last post should have stated that you have to move the rip
fence to the LEFT side of the blade.

DOH!!

You might get a lot of opinions on this. Mine is: look at overall
quality, price and best package of features. Don't get hung up on
tilt.

I have a Griz 1023S which is right tilt. We traveled to SW Missouri a
few years ago to help the son trim out his new home. His saw was left
tilt and my first thought was "Oops - gonna have to get used to
this!". I can honestly say it took all of 30 minutes to forget about
the difference. Same amount of time when I got back to my machine
after three weeks at his house.

RonB

THOMAS CLEVELAND wrote:
I am going to get my first "real" table saw, not the bench top type but
floor model, now here is the question, left or right tilt, what are the
pro's and con's of each??

Do a google search. This has been discussed before. As has already
been said, it's not that big a deal, and usability counts more than tilt
direction.

Look at things like where the dust collector outlet is, whether the
motor bay door will be accessible, whether it has a riving knife or
splitter, quality of fence, etc.

Chris

Congrats.

You'll find left tilt is sold at least 5:1 maybe more over right tilt.

The only good reason for a right tilt I have heard is for a left
hander but even then it is just a small advantage when it comes to
changing blades and adjusting bevel IIRC. The ability to keep the
fence to the right of the blade when doing bevels (with no dangerous
oinch) is the main reason.

On Jul 13, 12:15*pm, (THOMAS CLEVELAND) wrote:
I am going to get my first "real" table saw, not the bench top type but
floor model, now here is the question, left or right tilt, what are the
pro's and con's of each??

Cheers,
Thomas Cleveland

"THOMAS CLEVELAND" wrote:


I am going to get my first "real" table saw, not the bench top type
but
floor model, now here is the question, left or right tilt, what are
the
pro's and con's of each??

IMHO, you are not concentrating on the right thing, namely THE FENCE.

Start with a good fence, jack it up and drive any piece of junk that
wants to call itself a table saw and you probably won't be unhappy.

Reverse the situation, good saw, crappy fence, and you will go to your
grave an unhappy woodworker.

I had a Unifence, I was not unhappy.

Lew

.....The only good reason for a right tilt I have heard is for a left
hander but even then it is just a small advantage when it comes to
changing blades and adjusting bevel IIRC...


I've had both and I agree the right left thing is not that big of a deal.

I now have a right-tilting cabinet saw.

I am right handed and I can manipulate that nut just fine with my left hand.
But, when I do get the blade attached I will not have to adjust the cursor
on my fence to account for a different size kerf. Not so with LT.

Also, the dust port and bevel crank are reversed. That's why I went with RT.
It put the dust collection on the optimal side of the saw for my shop
configuration..

-Steve

On Jul 13, 8:42*pm, "C & S" wrote:
....The only good reason for a right tilt I have heard is for a left
hander but even then it is just a small advantage when it comes to
changing blades and adjusting bevel IIRC...

I've had both and I agree the right left thing is not that big of a deal.

I now have a right-tilting cabinet saw.

I am right handed and I can manipulate that nut just fine with my left hand.
But, when I do get the blade attached I will not have to adjust the cursor
on my fence to account for a different size kerf. *Not so with LT.

Also, the dust port and bevel crank are reversed. That's why I went with RT.
It put the dust collection on the optimal side of the saw for my shop
configuration..

Oh, the dust port is in the rear-center of an RT, rather than the
center-rear, like my LT Unisaw? ;-)

Oh, the dust port is in the rear-center of an RT, rather than the

center-rear, like my LT Unisaw? ;-)

I realize that some saws have rear dust ports. The Jet's send the dust left
or right depending on tilt. I'm failry sure everybody (with the notabile
exception of the brand new Unisaws) swap their bevel crank based in L/R tilt
..

-Steve

On Jul 14, 9:08*am, "StephenM" wrote:
Oh, the dust port is in the rear-center of an RT, rather than the
center-rear, like my LT Unisaw? ;-)

I realize that some saws have rear dust ports. The Jet's send the dust left
or right depending on tilt. I'm failry sure everybody (with the notabile
exception of the brand new Unisaws) swap their bevel crank based in L/R tilt

Mine is "brand new", but it isn't the new design (rather, X5) and has
the rear port. The rear port makes a whole lot more sense.

wrote in message
...
On Jul 14, 9:08 am, "StephenM" wrote:
Oh, the dust port is in the rear-center of an RT, rather than the
center-rear, like my LT Unisaw? ;-)

I realize that some saws have rear dust ports. The Jet's send the dust
left
or right depending on tilt. I'm failry sure everybody (with the notabile
exception of the brand new Unisaws) swap their bevel crank based in L/R
tilt

Mine is "brand new", but it isn't the new design (rather, X5) and has
the rear port. The rear port makes a whole lot more sense.
3

Not more sense in all cases, I use a 15 roller fold down rear extension
table that has about 3" floor clearance when folded down. Rear discharge
would prevent the extension table to fold down completely.