OK, I am getting along on my kitchen project and are now up to hanging door
on the bottom cabinets. These are face frame units with a 1" overlay. I
bought a handful of Blum 39C 1 INCH OVERLAY 39C358C.16 hinges, and after
setting up a jig to drill them on my DP on a test piece, I tool it over to a
unit and noticed that these hinges made the door appear to stand-off the
face frame by 1/16-1/8", which I do not consider desirable.

I am looking at the Compact 33 with the 1" overlay edge plate as a possible
solution. Will this solve my off-set problem or will I have the same thing?
Any suggestions to solve this problem?

SteveA

On May 12, 9:34*pm, "SteveA" wrote:
OK, I am getting along on my kitchen project and are now up to hanging door
on the bottom cabinets. These are face frame units with a 1" overlay. I
bought a handful of Blum 39C 1 INCH OVERLAY 39C358C.16 hinges, and after
setting up a jig to drill them on my DP on a test piece, I tool it over to a
unit and noticed that these hinges made the door appear to stand-off the
face frame by 1/16-1/8", which I do not consider desirable.

I am looking at the Compact 33 with the 1" overlay edge plate as a possible
solution. Will this solve my off-set problem or will I have the same thing?
Any suggestions to solve this problem?

SteveA

How close is the edge of the door coming to the face of the face-frame
when opening/closing the door at the hinge side?
If that action maintains that 1/16 or 1/8, then simply moving the
plate back into the cabinet should cover it.
Is the front-to-back adjustment fully exhausted then?

"SteveA" wrote in message
...
OK, I am getting along on my kitchen project and are now up to hanging
door on the bottom cabinets. These are face frame units with a 1" overlay.
I bought a handful of Blum 39C 1 INCH OVERLAY 39C358C.16 hinges, and after
setting up a jig to drill them on my DP on a test piece, I tool it over to
a unit and noticed that these hinges made the door appear to stand-off the
face frame by 1/16-1/8", which I do not consider desirable.

I am looking at the Compact 33 with the 1" overlay edge plate as a
possible solution. Will this solve my off-set problem or will I have the
same thing? Any suggestions to solve this problem?

SteveA

typically one would use silicone bumpons to prevent door slamming. they're
about that thick.

"SteveA" wrote in message
...
OK, I am getting along on my kitchen project and are now up to hanging
door on the bottom cabinets. These are face frame units with a 1" overlay.
I bought a handful of Blum 39C 1 INCH OVERLAY 39C358C.16 hinges, and after
setting up a jig to drill them on my DP on a test piece, I tool it over to
a unit and noticed that these hinges made the door appear to stand-off the
face frame by 1/16-1/8", which I do not consider desirable.

I am looking at the Compact 33 with the 1" overlay edge plate as a
possible solution. Will this solve my off-set problem or will I have the
same thing? Any suggestions to solve this problem?

SteveA


The gap is pretty much the nature of the beast for Euro style hinges,
basically all hinges that allow you to fit doors next to each other. The
reason that the hinge holds the door out from the cabinet is so that the
1/8" thick edge of the door next to the hole will clear the face frame or
cabinet. The hinges allow the doors to open with out swinging out,
therefore the clearance has to come from some where. The some where
clearance is that which is between the back of the door and the face frame.
You can buy appropriately spacers so that the door fronts will be on the
same plane.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On May 12, 9:34 pm, "SteveA" wrote:
OK, I am getting along on my kitchen project and are now up to hanging
door
on the bottom cabinets. These are face frame units with a 1" overlay. I
bought a handful of Blum 39C 1 INCH OVERLAY 39C358C.16 hinges, and after
setting up a jig to drill them on my DP on a test piece, I tool it over to
a
unit and noticed that these hinges made the door appear to stand-off the
face frame by 1/16-1/8", which I do not consider desirable.

I am looking at the Compact 33 with the 1" overlay edge plate as a
possible
solution. Will this solve my off-set problem or will I have the same
thing?
Any suggestions to solve this problem?

SteveA

How close is the edge of the door coming to the face of the face-frame
when opening/closing the door at the hinge side?
If that action maintains that 1/16 or 1/8, then simply moving the
plate back into the cabinet should cover it.
Is the front-to-back adjustment fully exhausted then?

Cant do it if there is a face frame behind the door, the door hinge side
edge will hit the face frame if you move it too closely.

"charlie" wrote in message
...

"SteveA" wrote in message
...
OK, I am getting along on my kitchen project and are now up to hanging
door on the bottom cabinets. These are face frame units with a 1"
overlay. I bought a handful of Blum 39C 1 INCH OVERLAY 39C358C.16 hinges,
and after setting up a jig to drill them on my DP on a test piece, I tool
it over to a unit and noticed that these hinges made the door appear to
stand-off the face frame by 1/16-1/8", which I do not consider desirable.

I am looking at the Compact 33 with the 1" overlay edge plate as a
possible solution. Will this solve my off-set problem or will I have the
same thing? Any suggestions to solve this problem?

SteveA

typically one would use silicone bumpons to prevent door slamming. they're
about that thick.


Some of them are, there are hundreds of sizes. Typically you want a 1/8"
thick bumper.

That seems to say it all, having spent the day looking at all the
manufacturers available drawings, it seems that this space is unavoidable.
It also seems that it is fairly un-noticeable, as I had to go back and check
a couple of doors that I threw on another cabinet only to see the same gap
that I was getting in a tizzy about.

It seems that I will have to just bit the bullet and mount a set and see
what I think. Worse case scenario, it seems that I can eliminate this 'gap'
if I go to a smaller over-lay with a hinge other than the 'compact' series.

Thanx for all replies

SteveA

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"SteveA" wrote in message
...
OK, I am getting along on my kitchen project and are now up to hanging
door on the bottom cabinets. These are face frame units with a 1"
overlay. I bought a handful of Blum 39C 1 INCH OVERLAY 39C358C.16 hinges,
and after setting up a jig to drill them on my DP on a test piece, I tool
it over to a unit and noticed that these hinges made the door appear to
stand-off the face frame by 1/16-1/8", which I do not consider desirable.

I am looking at the Compact 33 with the 1" overlay edge plate as a
possible solution. Will this solve my off-set problem or will I have the
same thing? Any suggestions to solve this problem?

SteveA


The gap is pretty much the nature of the beast for Euro style hinges,
basically all hinges that allow you to fit doors next to each other. The
reason that the hinge holds the door out from the cabinet is so that the
1/8" thick edge of the door next to the hole will clear the face frame or
cabinet. The hinges allow the doors to open with out swinging out,
therefore the clearance has to come from some where. The some where
clearance is that which is between the back of the door and the face
frame. You can buy appropriately spacers so that the door fronts will be
on the same plane.

"SteveA" wrote in message
...
That seems to say it all, having spent the day looking at all the
manufacturers available drawings, it seems that this space is unavoidable.
It also seems that it is fairly un-noticeable, as I had to go back and
check a couple of doors that I threw on another cabinet only to see the
same gap that I was getting in a tizzy about.

It really is not that bad especially if there are other doors mounted
closely, they tend to keep you from seeing the gap. On lower kitchen
cabinets there is usually a fully closing drawer that hides the gap at the
top of the door. Upper cabinets typically require you to squat down and
look up to see the gap at the bottoms of the doors.

The "Euro" style hinges were originally designed for doors to literally be
almost directly next to each oher and typically 2 doors would share the same
cabinet side/divider. It was a requirement for the doors to have clearance
to open so that the doors would not swing over from the opening. You never
saw a gap becaause you esentially did not even see the edges of the doors
unless you were looking at the very end of a row of doors.

There are numerous Euro style face frame hinges that have been adapted for
face fram cabinets, the kind you probably bought.


It seems that I will have to just bit the bullet and mount a set and see
what I think.

I literally buy these style hinges by the hundreds and use them almost
exclusively for all of my cabinets, bathroom, and kitchen jobs. I have not
had any complaints although I warn the customer that there will be a slight
gap. For the most part my customers are more worried about not seeing the
hinge rather than the slight off set from the face frame.



Worse case scenario, it seems that I can eliminate this 'gap'
if I go to a smaller over-lay with a hinge other than the 'compact'
series.

I don't think so, I could be wrong. I think the only way to lessen the gap
is to actually drill the hole closer to the edge of the door and move the
hinge in farther in the cabinet. This will weaken the door in that spot.
Because these type hinges pivot near the center of the thickness of the
door, the door when opened does not require any more face frame area than is
needed when the door is closed. The normally called for 1/8" offset of the
hinge hole from the edge of the door requires that door to be offset from
the face frame at least the same amount, otherwise the hinge side of the
door will come in contact with the face frame as you attempt to open the
door.

Again I almost exclusively use the compact series hinges, the ones that
mount directly to the door opening face frame "edge". Purchased in lots of
50 at a time I pay about $67 for the hinges + S&H Singly or in lots other
than multiples of 50 you pay about $1.65 each + S&H. If you would like I
can give you a link to my source.

Leon,

I would appreciate the link, as this is the route I will be going. Not sure
exactly what I paid for this lot, but almost certainly more than what you
are getting them for. These are also the 'wrap-around' type because I
figured that would be better for alignment than the plain edge plate, and
they also had the additional adjustment.

Again, a newbie learning curve (just got over that with the blumotion under
mount hinges) the first being the test, but at least I had them down-pat by
the time I installed the last set...

SteveA

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"SteveA" wrote in message
...
That seems to say it all, having spent the day looking at all the
manufacturers available drawings, it seems that this space is
unavoidable. It also seems that it is fairly un-noticeable, as I had to
go back and check a couple of doors that I threw on another cabinet only
to see the same gap that I was getting in a tizzy about.

It really is not that bad especially if there are other doors mounted
closely, they tend to keep you from seeing the gap. On lower kitchen
cabinets there is usually a fully closing drawer that hides the gap at the
top of the door. Upper cabinets typically require you to squat down and
look up to see the gap at the bottoms of the doors.

The "Euro" style hinges were originally designed for doors to literally be
almost directly next to each oher and typically 2 doors would share the
same cabinet side/divider. It was a requirement for the doors to have
clearance to open so that the doors would not swing over from the opening.
You never saw a gap becaause you esentially did not even see the edges of
the doors unless you were looking at the very end of a row of doors.

There are numerous Euro style face frame hinges that have been adapted for
face fram cabinets, the kind you probably bought.


It seems that I will have to just bit the bullet and mount a set and see
what I think.

I literally buy these style hinges by the hundreds and use them almost
exclusively for all of my cabinets, bathroom, and kitchen jobs. I have
not had any complaints although I warn the customer that there will be a
slight gap. For the most part my customers are more worried about not
seeing the hinge rather than the slight off set from the face frame.



Worse case scenario, it seems that I can eliminate this 'gap'
if I go to a smaller over-lay with a hinge other than the 'compact'
series.

I don't think so, I could be wrong. I think the only way to lessen the
gap is to actually drill the hole closer to the edge of the door and move
the hinge in farther in the cabinet. This will weaken the door in that
spot. Because these type hinges pivot near the center of the thickness of
the door, the door when opened does not require any more face frame area
than is needed when the door is closed. The normally called for 1/8"
offset of the hinge hole from the edge of the door requires that door to
be offset from the face frame at least the same amount, otherwise the
hinge side of the door will come in contact with the face frame as you
attempt to open the door.

Again I almost exclusively use the compact series hinges, the ones that
mount directly to the door opening face frame "edge". Purchased in lots
of 50 at a time I pay about $67 for the hinges + S&H Singly or in lots
other than multiples of 50 you pay about $1.65 each + S&H. If you would
like I can give you a link to my source.

"SteveA" wrote in message
...
Leon,

I would appreciate the link, as this is the route I will be going. Not
sure exactly what I paid for this lot, but almost certainly more than what
you are getting them for. These are also the 'wrap-around' type because I
figured that would be better for alignment than the plain edge plate, and
they also had the additional adjustment.

Again, a newbie learning curve (just got over that with the blumotion
under mount hinges) the first being the test, but at least I had them
down-pat by the time I installed the last set...

Woodworkers Hardware

http://wwhardware.com/index.cfm/pageid/2


This is the Blum hinge that I use all the time. It allows up/down, in/out,
and left and right adjustments.

B038N355C.08

:Remember" Their better pricing is in specific package quantities. 50 are
cheaper than 40, if you order 55 you will get 50 at the lower price and 5 at
the regular single price. At a certain point it makes sense to simply round
up to the next 50 increment.

Here is the link Leon was trying to send:

http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/Pr...D/B038N355C.08

"Pat Barber" wrote in message
...
Here is the link Leon was trying to send:

http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/Pr...D/B038N355C.08


No, no that was not what I was trying to send.


It is what I should have sent LOL

Thank you Pat.