Leon,

I would appreciate the link, as this is the route I will be going. Not sure
exactly what I paid for this lot, but almost certainly more than what you
are getting them for. These are also the 'wrap-around' type because I
figured that would be better for alignment than the plain edge plate, and
they also had the additional adjustment.

Again, a newbie learning curve (just got over that with the blumotion under
mount hinges) the first being the test, but at least I had them down-pat by
the time I installed the last set...

SteveA

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"SteveA" wrote in message
...
That seems to say it all, having spent the day looking at all the
manufacturers available drawings, it seems that this space is
unavoidable. It also seems that it is fairly un-noticeable, as I had to
go back and check a couple of doors that I threw on another cabinet only
to see the same gap that I was getting in a tizzy about.

It really is not that bad especially if there are other doors mounted
closely, they tend to keep you from seeing the gap. On lower kitchen
cabinets there is usually a fully closing drawer that hides the gap at the
top of the door. Upper cabinets typically require you to squat down and
look up to see the gap at the bottoms of the doors.

The "Euro" style hinges were originally designed for doors to literally be
almost directly next to each oher and typically 2 doors would share the
same cabinet side/divider. It was a requirement for the doors to have
clearance to open so that the doors would not swing over from the opening.
You never saw a gap becaause you esentially did not even see the edges of
the doors unless you were looking at the very end of a row of doors.

There are numerous Euro style face frame hinges that have been adapted for
face fram cabinets, the kind you probably bought.


It seems that I will have to just bit the bullet and mount a set and see
what I think.

I literally buy these style hinges by the hundreds and use them almost
exclusively for all of my cabinets, bathroom, and kitchen jobs. I have
not had any complaints although I warn the customer that there will be a
slight gap. For the most part my customers are more worried about not
seeing the hinge rather than the slight off set from the face frame.



Worse case scenario, it seems that I can eliminate this 'gap'
if I go to a smaller over-lay with a hinge other than the 'compact'
series.

I don't think so, I could be wrong. I think the only way to lessen the
gap is to actually drill the hole closer to the edge of the door and move
the hinge in farther in the cabinet. This will weaken the door in that
spot. Because these type hinges pivot near the center of the thickness of
the door, the door when opened does not require any more face frame area
than is needed when the door is closed. The normally called for 1/8"
offset of the hinge hole from the edge of the door requires that door to
be offset from the face frame at least the same amount, otherwise the
hinge side of the door will come in contact with the face frame as you
attempt to open the door.

Again I almost exclusively use the compact series hinges, the ones that
mount directly to the door opening face frame "edge". Purchased in lots
of 50 at a time I pay about $67 for the hinges + S&H Singly or in lots
other than multiples of 50 you pay about $1.65 each + S&H. If you would
like I can give you a link to my source.