On Mar 7, 11:04*am, Glenn wrote:
On Mar 7, 12:45*am, coloradotrout wrote:





On Mar 3, 11:44*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

Llamas and goats. *Primary purpose is basic Llama shelter for 2-4
critters.

It has to be low cost. * If it lasts for 10 years, that's fine.

Would 6-4x4 posts, 2x4 girts, and 2x6 rafters be sufficien?

The roof will probably be metal, and the walls OSB.

What's a good source of metal roofing/siding?

That would work, minimum. *The roof will hold, but may sag a little..
Look into Fiber-Cement Siding for the wall sheathing.
It comes in 4x8 sheets like osb, but is impervious to everything.
Maybe the first 4ft. of wall could have OSB on the inside as a kick
shield.

I don't know if there's an aspca in your area or some equivalent
association, but you may want to check and see how much room is needed
for llamas. They're pretty big, no?

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

What's the best way to construct the roof?

I have seen 2x6s (rafters) or such strung from front to back across
the tops of the poles (poles space 8' or more), and then 2x material
(purlins) laid down across those. *When I said laid down, I mean the
wide part of the board (4", 6", 8") is nailed down to the front to
back rafters, and then the roofing is nailed to these.

Would it be better to attach a 2x6 across the front and back of the
building, and then hang rafters between those? *I guess the problem is
there is nothing to attach the roofing material to, so one would first
have to nail some sheathing to the rafters and then the roofiing
material (metal).

The typical way is to run 2x8 or 2x10 along the poles the length of
the building, then rafters along the slope, 8' is a long span for a
2x4, so probably 2x6s would be needed. *Then, if you don't have a a
close rafter spacing, purlins across the rafters to support the
roofing, or if they're closer, . *You can gain some strength for
purlins by attaching them on edge instead of flat, but I don't know if
that would be enough for an 8' span between rafters. *Spacing also
comes into how small a lumber you can use. *There's a whole art to
selecting lumber for projects like this, do a web search for "span
tables".

This is where all those plans people gave you links to would come in
handy, to get an idea of how big a piece of lumber you'll need across
what sort of span...and not have to calculate it all out yourself from
the span tables.
* --Glenn Lyford- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I generally like to work from the concepts to the design to the
building. Most of the links here were for plans of a specific
building. I'm looking for some general ideas and concepts to sort out
what's best for us. One thing we are interested in it a moveable
shelter design. We are new to the property and there are various
features - woods, pasture, ponds, streams, that may very well change
our thoughts on where to locate the shelter. I'm considering a welded
metal frame on skids then sided/roofed that can easily be towed
around. But eventually, I think we'll test our luck with some pole
buildings.

I can see where the combination of 2x along the length, rafters, and
purlins can be many. Wider rafter spacing, more purlins; narrower
rafter spacing, fewer purlins; and so on. Also, the type of roofing
material could play into that. I also need to think in terms of
longevity. I can certainly see where a 50 year old building desing
would be beefier. I was thinking more like $200-$300 and what can we
get for that.

I generally like to work from the concepts to the design to the
building. *Most of the links here were for plans of a specific
building. *I'm looking for some general ideas and concepts to sort out
what's best for us. *One thing we are interested in it a moveable
shelter design. *We are new to the property and there are various
features - woods, pasture, ponds, streams, that may very well change
our thoughts on where to locate the shelter. *I'm considering a welded
metal frame on skids then sided/roofed that can easily be towed
around. *But eventually, I think we'll test our luck with some pole
buildings.

I can see where the combination of 2x along the length, rafters, and
purlins can be many. *Wider rafter spacing, more purlins; narrower
rafter spacing, fewer purlins; and so on. *Also, the type of roofing
material could play into that. *I also need to think in terms of
longevity. *I can certainly see where a 50 year old building desing
would be beefier. *I was thinking more like $200-$300 and what can we
get for that.

Try to read the plans with an eye to technique, rather than getting
distracted by the overall picture of what they do with that
structure. Pay particular attention to structures in the size range
you want to make, as they will use similarly sized materials to what
you want to use. If you want to build it cheaper, consider using
roughsawn lumber from a local mill rather than imported lumber from
one of the big box stores. There are a number of plans at the .edu
websites that are for movable designs, especially in the size ranges
you've been discussing. Like this one:
http://www.bae.uky.edu/ext/Plans/Swine/5787.pdf
Ignore the pens, and look at just the poles and roof. Even this one:
http://www.bae.uky.edu/ext/Plans/Swine/5947.pdf
with the addition of some wire fencing may do what you want. This
one:
http://www.bae.uky.edu/ext/Plans/Misc/5998.pdf
would be more expensive to build, but it wouldn't be that much more
work to add skids in place of the slab.

Also, it may help to do a search on "run-in" sheds, as that seems to
be the general idea of what you want to build.
--Glenn Lyford