Somewhere I picked up the tip to hook your outside fingers over the
fence as you made a cut on a narrow piece. That way, your hand won't
be able to get any closer to the blade than as far as your fingers
can stretch.

Puckdropper


Until you slip.

There is that. Darwin takes care of his own. Doesn't matter how wide or
narrow the cut is if you're prone to that. Maybe make appropriate
allowances by permanently removing the key from the power switch.


I think we've been down this road in another thread.
People who do stupid things have more "accidents."

I've heard it million times, "I was being careful and I don't know what
happened, something was on my shoe, I missed some saw dust when I swept,
blah, blah, blah."

We make jigs and push sticks "grippers" and for a reason.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Jan 20, 11:55 pm, "Leon" wrote:
Not my rule, just a common sence approach of how to gauge safe from unsafe.
You do have to admit that 20 x 20 is more likely to cause a problem than say
20 x 80,

I am a heckuva lot more comfortable doing 20x20 than the long stuff,
because I rarely work with long material and I don't have the outfeed
support that you probably take for granted, and my fence doesn't
extend very far past the back of the blade. That's the kind of thing
I would have to stop, move things around, plan everything out, and be
uncomfortable doing. I deal with small parts day in and day out, so
my comfort level is much higher there. 20x20 is kind of huge for me
actually. I make boxes not furniture.


I am not assuming anything here, nor do I think you sound like an idiot.
Where did you get that idea? You simply sound inexperienced whether you are
or not. I do things quite often that are not necessarily considered safe
but I deal with those situations as they come up.

I've been around table saws for 15 years or so, and I began doing it
that way out of experience a few years ago. I don't expect to
convert anyone to my way of doing it, but I maintain that it in that
situation it's safer to back out than to go through. Longer pieces I
do at the band saw, and I would do the short ones there too if I
didn't feel it was safe.

The OP sounds
inexperienced and the best approach here is to warn against an unsafe
procedure rather than give him a false sense of security and risk being
injured. With time he will learn through close calls and hopefully only
close calls that the unexpected can happen at any moment. Experience will
help him recognize those times and how to better deal with the task.

The safety rules are good, but it's kind of like the building code.
You can follow all the rules and still make a crappy house. If you
understand what's behind the rule then you can understand when you're
in a situation where the rule isn't going to cover it. I have a scar
to remind me that using pushing sticks doesn't guarantee you're safe.
The biggest mistake I see people make is to just fixate on what is
happening at the cut and ignore what is happening at the fence. Get
your hands out of the path of the cut and the blade will do its job
just fine without you staring at it, as long as you do your job of
feeding the stock properly.

On Wed, 21 Jan 2009 09:52:46 +0000 (GMT), Stuart
wrote:

In article
,
Kent wrote:
Is what I am doing safe or not?

If in doubt, don't!


I hope I can help prevent an injury here. Before you make the cut,
stop and seriously ask yourself if there is a safer way to make this
cut. Nobody will criticize you for working more safely, and for
woodworking, you need to keep as many fingers as possible.

wrote in message
...
On Jan 20, 11:55 pm, "Leon" wrote:


I've been around table saws for 15 years or so, and I began doing it
that way out of experience a few years ago. I don't expect to
convert anyone to my way of doing it, but I maintain that it in that
situation it's safer to back out than to go through. Longer pieces I
do at the band saw, and I would do the short ones there too if I
didn't feel it was safe.

I felt perfectly safe when I cut the end of my thumb off 20 years ago. I
had completed cutting a dado and had turned the saw off. You never know
when an accident can happen.


The OP sounds
inexperienced and the best approach here is to warn against an unsafe
procedure rather than give him a false sense of security and risk being
injured. With time he will learn through close calls and hopefully only
close calls that the unexpected can happen at any moment. Experience
will
help him recognize those times and how to better deal with the task.

The safety rules are good, but it's kind of like the building code.
You can follow all the rules and still make a crappy house. If you
understand what's behind the rule then you can understand when you're
in a situation where the rule isn't going to cover it. I have a scar
to remind me that using pushing sticks doesn't guarantee you're safe.

I NEVER use a push stick, they scare me to death. I always apply downward
pressure, typically I use a Gripper or a home made hold down devise with a
hook on the rear.


The biggest mistake I see people make is to just fixate on what is
happening at the cut and ignore what is happening at the fence. Get
your hands out of the path of the cut and the blade will do its job
just fine without you staring at it, as long as you do your job of
feeding the stock properly.

Yeah I used to think that way, I always keep my eye on the blade when it is
spinning. My lesson 20 years ago taught me that any thing can happen when
you are not paying attention to the blade.

On Jan 20, 10:07*am, Kent wrote:
I would like to know if what I am doing on a table saw is safe. I have
ripped a board to 4" in width. I then have a piece of 3/4" plywood
that is approximately 5" X 5" and I would like to cut this to 4" wide
to exactly match (in width) *the first piece I ripped. I am sliding
the 5" X 5" plywood through by hand holding it tight to the fence.
Pushing it through with a push stick does not "feel" safe to me. There
is plenty of clearance for my fingers when I slide it through.
However, since the board is only 5" across, it also does not feel safe
to me to have the plywood fully behind the blade with nothing on eiter
side as I am sliding it through. Miter saw would liekly be safer,
however, I am trying to exactly match the first board I ripped.

Is what I am doing safe or not?

Grrrripper table saw accessory.
Best store bought push stick thing-a-ma-jig ever.
Robb

"Leon" wrote

I NEVER use a push stick, they scare me to death. I always apply
downward pressure, typically I use a Gripper or a home made hold down
devise with a hook on the rear.

Ditto ... not enough "control", as far as I'm concerned.

I prefer the old "shoe" style "push" stick with a long "sole" that keeps
downward pressure on the work piece, as well as against the fence if need
be, way past the blade.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Knotbob" wrote in message
...
On Jan 20, 10:07 am, Kent wrote:
I would like to know if what I am doing on a table saw is safe. I have
ripped a board to 4" in width. I then have a piece of 3/4" plywood
that is approximately 5" X 5" and I would like to cut this to 4" wide
to exactly match (in width) the first piece I ripped. I am sliding
the 5" X 5" plywood through by hand holding it tight to the fence.
Pushing it through with a push stick does not "feel" safe to me. There
is plenty of clearance for my fingers when I slide it through.
However, since the board is only 5" across, it also does not feel safe
to me to have the plywood fully behind the blade with nothing on eiter
side as I am sliding it through. Miter saw would liekly be safer,
however, I am trying to exactly match the first board I ripped.

Is what I am doing safe or not?

Grrrripper table saw accessory.
Best store bought push stick thing-a-ma-jig ever.
Robb

Anybody run a Gripper into the blade? I'm wondering if they explode like the
plastic push sticks that come (or used to come??) with Delta and Jet
tools...

John

"Leon" wrote in message
...

I felt perfectly safe when I cut the end of my thumb off 20 years ago. I
had completed cutting a dado and had turned the saw off. You never know
when an accident can happen.

I can see how our viewpoints can differ, given that. My thumb is the primary
hold down and pusher device. Without it, I sure wouldn't have the control I
count on for even the simplest cut. (I wonder if you're about to tell me it
was your left thumb...)

I have my share of lessons learned also, but all of them without serious
injury. Are they any less valuable for that? Most recently, I thoughtlessly,
casually reached across the front of the blade to prod a cut-off away from
the blade with a pusher stick. At least I got half of it right; the plastic
didn't bleed as a result. It was over in an instant, leaving me puzzled for
long seconds on what had happened. There was a loud bang, the stick jerked
sharply, and there was a ragged new hole behind me in the shoji I just put
up around that end of the shop. (Brilliant choice of material, that.) The
fence wasn't even on the table, so it wasn't a kickback. The tip of the
pusher got snagged by the blade, and slammed into the insert plate hard
enough to shatter. The insert bears testimony to the saw's power. It's bent
and dented now beyond salvage. Not to mention, a contractor's saw's
trunnions don't hold up well to that kind of abuse. I had to re-align the
blade to the miter slots after that.

"Kent" wrote in message
...
I would like to know if what I am doing on a table saw is safe. I have
ripped a board to 4" in width. I then have a piece of 3/4" plywood
that is approximately 5" X 5" and I would like to cut this to 4" wide
to exactly match (in width) the first piece I ripped. I am sliding
the 5" X 5" plywood through by hand holding it tight to the fence.
Pushing it through with a push stick does not "feel" safe to me. There
is plenty of clearance for my fingers when I slide it through.
However, since the board is only 5" across, it also does not feel safe
to me to have the plywood fully behind the blade with nothing on eiter
side as I am sliding it through. Miter saw would liekly be safer,
however, I am trying to exactly match the first board I ripped.

Is what I am doing safe or not?

If you are interested, I just posted a photo of the push stick I use on
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking. Easily holds a 5" piece of wood.

"MikeWhy" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message
I can see how our viewpoints can differ, given that. My thumb is the
primary hold down and pusher device. Without it, I sure wouldn't have the
control I count on for even the simplest cut. (I wonder if you're about to
tell me it was your left thumb...)

I have my share of lessons learned also, but all of them without serious
injury. Are they any less valuable for that? Most recently, I
thoughtlessly, casually reached across the front of the blade to prod a
cut-off away from the blade with a pusher stick. At least I got half of it
right; the plastic didn't bleed as a result. It was over in an instant,
leaving me puzzled for long seconds on what had happened. There was a loud
bang, the stick jerked sharply, and there was a ragged new hole behind me
in the shoji I just put up around that end of the shop. (Brilliant choice
of material, that.) The fence wasn't even on the table, so it wasn't a
kickback. The tip of the pusher got snagged by the blade, and slammed into
the insert plate hard enough to shatter. The insert bears testimony to the
saw's power. It's bent and dented now beyond salvage. Not to mention, a
contractor's saw's trunnions don't hold up well to that kind of abuse. I
had to re-align the blade to the miter slots after that.



Hummmmm , Left thumb, I had just finished cutting a dado and had turned
the saw off. I then proceeded to remove the fence, swung my left hand
directly over the top of the blade as it was coasting down. Wham! It took
me one year to finally realize what had happened when I almost did it again.
I too initially thought it was a kick back but there was no damaged wood.
Funny how your mind stops remembering when you get injured.

On Jan 21, 6:44 pm, "Leon" wrote:

I NEVER use a push stick, they scare me to death. I always apply downward
pressure, typically I use a Gripper or a home made hold down devise with a
hook on the rear.

I was using "push stick" as a generic term for anything in between
your hand and the work. And I don't care how fancy it is, it can't
stop the wood from bowing after it's cut. You may be able to keep it
down to prevent the kickback with the gripper or whatever, but I
decided it's just not worth it.


The biggest mistake I see people make is to just fixate on what is
happening at the cut and ignore what is happening at the fence. Get
your hands out of the path of the cut and the blade will do its job
just fine without you staring at it, as long as you do your job of
feeding the stock properly.

Yeah I used to think that way, I always keep my eye on the blade when it is
spinning. My lesson 20 years ago taught me that any thing can happen when
you are not paying attention to the blade.

I didn't say ignore the blade, I said not to be fixated on it. You
can even be staring at the damn blade and watch your hand go right
into it before you realize what you just did. It's not enough to be
looking, you have to have your brain turned on too.

-Kevin

On Tue, 20 Jan 2009 17:58:06 +0000, Edwin Pawlowski wrote
(in article ):
What you need is a better push stick. Or should I say, push "device".

I have no trouble at all putting that through using my push device that has
a long flat bottom to hold the wood in place. Picture the handle of a hand
saw withthe hand grip hole. I traced the saw handle on a piece of 3/4"
plywood, made a flat bottom about 6" long with a 1/2" catch on the back.
Good grip, good control, lots of safety.



Pretty much what I was thunking.

The fire-poker / sleeping-dog-prodder push sticks are a smack in the face
waiting to happen.

Push device should be big enough to:
-a push along,
-b hold workpiece down
-c keep fingers high enough so that _when_ something goes wrong, they are
_still_ out of cut range.

The _when_ should cover things like being suddenly startled by loud bangs,
phone vibrating, swmbo tapping you on the shoulder, cramp, wasp sting,
kickback, losing your footing or fainting and pitching forward, plagues of
frogs etc...

otherwise, use an Incra or similar and make the accurate measurement on the
"wrong" (waste) side of the blade from very oversize stock

Zero-clearance blade slot makes a HUGE difference in my limited experience.

On Thu, 22 Jan 2009 04:00:51 +0000, Leon wrote
(in article ):

Hummmmm , Left thumb, I had just finished cutting a dado and had turned
the saw off. I then proceeded to remove the fence, swung my left hand
directly over the top of the blade as it was coasting down. Wham! It took
me one year to finally realize what had happened when I almost did it again.
I too initially thought it was a kick back but there was no damaged wood.
Funny how your mind stops remembering when you get injured.

I've just changed my loud. instant-stopping FEPOS benchtop saw for a much
better contractor's (site) saw with a 315mm blade, no brake and a near silent
motor...

This thing takes about a minute to spin down and of course would be illegal
if new (U.K.)

Respect. Fear.


Patience.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message

If you are interested, I just posted a photo of the push stick I use on
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking. Easily holds a 5" piece of wood.

Very similar to the design I've been using for years:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/PushStick.jpg


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

wrote in message
...
On Jan 21, 6:44 pm, "Leon" wrote:



The biggest mistake I see people make is to just fixate on what is
happening at the cut and ignore what is happening at the fence. Get
your hands out of the path of the cut and the blade will do its job
just fine without you staring at it, as long as you do your job of
feeding the stock properly.

Yeah I used to think that way, I always keep my eye on the blade when it
is
spinning. My lesson 20 years ago taught me that any thing can happen
when
you are not paying attention to the blade.

I didn't say ignore the blade, I said not to be fixated on it. You
can even be staring at the damn blade and watch your hand go right
into it before you realize what you just did. It's not enough to be
looking, you have to have your brain turned on too.

-Kevin


Correct, you did not say ignore the blade nor did I indicate that you said
that. I said that I always keep my eye off on the blade when it is
spinning. If you are set up properly and taking prudent precautions you
should not have to worry about other areas of the saw.

I totally agree that you can be staring at the blade and watch your hand go
right into it before you realize what you did. And, it is pretty simple to
realize that having said that, that not watching the blade would increase
the chance of your hand doing the same.

That sounds like a pretty simple analysis but accidents happen in the
simplest of situations. You cannot be too careful.

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message

If you are interested, I just posted a photo of the push stick I use on
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking. Easily holds a 5" piece of wood.

Very similar to the design I've been using for years:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/PushStick.jpg



I see you posting a lot in the last couple of days. Are you back at home or
using that new fangled phone in the field? LOL

"Leon" wrote in message
...

Damn



I said that I always keep my eye off on the blade when it is spinning.


Correction,

I said that I always keep my eye on the blade when it is
spinning

Leon wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...

Damn



I said that I always keep my eye off on the blade when it is spinning.


Correction,

I said that I always keep my eye on the blade when it is
spinning

Try using a blindfold.
;-)
--
Froz...

2 feet longer than a d00tchie.

On Thu, 22 Jan 2009 07:30:45 -0600, Swingman wrote:

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message

If you are interested, I just posted a photo of the push stick I use on
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking. Easily holds a 5" piece of wood.

Very similar to the design I've been using for years:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/PushStick.jpg

This one actually works well... and is a conversation piece too.

http://www.whipplesargent.com/whipjig5.pdf

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message

If you are interested, I just posted a photo of the push stick I use on
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking. Easily holds a 5" piece of wood.

Very similar to the design I've been using for years:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/PushStick.jpg



I notice the ruler so you can brag how big your stick is.

On Jan 22, 8:30*am, "Swingman" wrote:
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
If you are interested, I just posted a photo of the push stick I use on
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking. *Easily holds a 5" piece of wood.

Very similar to the design I've been using for years:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/PushStick.jpg

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Looks similar to these. The one on the right is 32 years old.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Pushstick.jpg

(you may note a small drive-by..)

Robatoy wrote:

Looks similar to these. The one on the right is 32 years old.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Pushstick.jpg

Not bad, but what I really like is your auxillary fence...

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

On Thu, 22 Jan 2009 14:40:29 -0500, Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message

If you are interested, I just posted a photo of the push stick I use
on alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking. Easily holds a 5" piece of
wood.

Very similar to the design I've been using for years:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/PushStick.jpg



I notice the ruler so you can brag how big your stick is.

Ha. I can't even lift my push stick.

Or get to the saw at the moment, for that matter :-(

On Jan 22, 9:38 am, "Leon" wrote:
Correct, you did not say ignore the blade nor did I indicate that you said
that. I said that I always keep my eye [on] the blade when it is
spinning. If you are set up properly and taking prudent precautions you
should not have to worry about other areas of the saw.

I disagree. You can easily come off the fence at the back and not
realize it if you don't have a splitter, which isn't possible on every
cut. It may not necessarily cause an incident, but it's sure going
to ruin the stock. If the stock is thin it can bow significantly
before a splitter can do anything. With the proper precautions you
can hopefully prevent any incident from causing you harm, but you
don't necessarily prevent the incident from occurring in the first
place, and once things get out of whack anything can happen and you
don't have time to react to it. It's always better to prevent it from
ever starting to happen at all, and you do that by being aware of
everything that is going on and using all of your senses. You can
often see the problems starting to happen in time to correct it, if
you are paying attention. If you are only looking in one different
spot, then it's just going to happen in an instant and you may very
well both have no idea what actually caused it and assume it could not
have been prevented. I'm not saying every incident is preventable, we
all make mistakes and sometimes unforeseeable things go wrong. So I
am not saying prevention makes safety precautions unnecessary, just
that we don't want to fall back on the last line of defense if we
don't have to.

-Kevin

Robatoy wrote:
On Jan 22, 8:30 am, "Swingman" wrote:
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
If you are interested, I just posted a photo of the push stick I use on
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking. Easily holds a 5" piece of wood.
Very similar to the design I've been using for years:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/PushStick.jpg

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Looks similar to these. The one on the right is 32 years old.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Pushstick.jpg

(you may note a small drive-by..)

See abpw for my personalized push stick. An oldie mouldie...

On Jan 22, 5:17*pm, jo4hn wrote:
Robatoy wrote:
On Jan 22, 8:30 am, "Swingman" wrote:
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
If you are interested, I just posted a photo of the push stick I use on
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking. *Easily holds a 5" piece of wood..
Very similar to the design I've been using for years:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/PushStick.jpg

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Looks similar to these. The one on the right is 32 years old.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Pushstick.jpg

(you may note a small drive-by..)

See abpw for my personalized push stick. *An oldie mouldie...

Is that an accurate profile, Jo8hn?

wrote in message
...
On Jan 22, 9:38 am, "Leon" wrote:


I disagree. You can easily come off the fence at the back and not
realize it if you don't have a splitter, which isn't possible on every
cut. It may not necessarily cause an incident, but it's sure going
to ruin the stock.

Ok, I'd much much much rather ruin the stock then my hand. I'll keep my eye
on the blade.


If the stock is thin it can bow significantly
before a splitter can do anything. With the proper precautions you
can hopefully prevent any incident from causing you harm, but you
don't necessarily prevent the incident from occurring in the first
place, and once things get out of whack anything can happen and you
don't have time to react to it.

If you are watching the blade you can simply stop feeding and turn the saw
off, I did this routinely before adding a splitter.


It's always better to prevent it from
ever starting to happen at all, and you do that by being aware of
everything that is going on and using all of your senses. You can
often see the problems starting to happen in time to correct it, if
you are paying attention. If you are only looking in one different
spot, then it's just going to happen in an instant and you may very
well both have no idea what actually caused it and assume it could not
have been prevented.

If you know what you are doing, you know what can cause a problem. Perhaps
you don't to this yet but reviewing what can happen and preparing can cut
down significantly on the unexpected. My number one priority it to keep
from getting cut again. Me keeping my eyes on the spinning blade has been
very successful for the last 20 years and not every cut has been text book
smooth. I have had several incidents for one reason or another, a majority
of the time the stock was the cause, and I so far I have been able to
controll the unwanted reaction.



I'm not saying every incident is preventable, we
all make mistakes and sometimes unforeseeable things go wrong. So I
am not saying prevention makes safety precautions unnecessary, just
that we don't want to fall back on the last line of defense if we
don't have to.


We agree.

"Leon" wrote in message
"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message

If you are interested, I just posted a photo of the push stick I use on
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking. Easily holds a 5" piece of wood.

Very similar to the design I've been using for years:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/PushStick.jpg



I see you posting a lot in the last couple of days. Are you back at home
or using that new fangled phone in the field? LOL

"New fangled" makes a helluva broadband modem for the laptop when in the
boonies. Even does a good imitation of Hilda, Jr ... re-calculating!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Robatoy" wrote

Looks similar to these. The one on the right is 32 years old.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Pushstick.jpg

(you may note a small drive-by..)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I notice that the table saw fence has a Canadian flag on it.

Is this a socialist state reqiurement? G

"Robatoy" wrote

(you may note a small drive-by..)

Duly noted ... one of these days, maybe, but let me get the last one out of
college first before succumbing to that particular compulsion.

ITMT, you and Morris just keep on providing the vicarious thrills ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Lee Michaels wrote:


"Robatoy" wrote

Looks similar to these. The one on the right is 32 years old.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Pushstick.jpg

(you may note a small drive-by..)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I notice that the table saw fence has a Canadian flag on it.

Is this a socialist state reqiurement? G

Yep, Bald Eagles are push sticks.
;-)
--
Froz...

2 feet longer than a d00tchie.

On Jan 22, 8:27*pm, "Swingman" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote

(you may note a small drive-by..)

Duly noted ... one of these days, maybe, but let me get the last one out of
college first before succumbing to that particular compulsion.

ITMT, you and Morris just keep on providing the vicarious thrills ...

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

I was talking about my blow gun.. from the SnapOn truck. Okay... not
really...

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Jan 22, 8:27 pm, "Swingman" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote

(you may note a small drive-by..)

Duly noted ... one of these days, maybe, but let me get the last one out
of
college first before succumbing to that particular compulsion.

ITMT, you and Morris just keep on providing the vicarious thrills ...

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

I was talking about my blow gun.. from the SnapOn truck. Okay... not
really...

An expression with two positive words that, combined, make a negative:
"Yeah, right!"




--
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Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Kent wrote in
.
com:

I would like to know if what I am doing on a table saw is safe.
I have ripped a board to 4" in width. I then have a piece of
3/4" plywood that is approximately 5" X 5" and I would like to
cut this to 4" wide to exactly match (in width) the first piece
I ripped. I am sliding the 5" X 5" plywood through by hand
holding it tight to the fence. Pushing it through with a push
stick does not "feel" safe to me. There is plenty of clearance
for my fingers when I slide it through. However, since the board
is only 5" across, it also does not feel safe to me to have the
plywood fully behind the blade with nothing on eiter side as I
am sliding it through. Miter saw would liekly be safer, however,
I am trying to exactly match the first board I ripped.

Is what I am doing safe or not?

I wouldn't do it, not after a board a few inches wider, and a few
inches longer kicked back on me when doing a rabbit about 5 years ago
and split my right index finger down the middle about 1/2" from the
tip, and that was with the blade only raised about 1/4".