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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
Greetings All,
I have a basement which has just a couple of 48" flourescents right now. I need to add more lighting and was looking at replacing the flourescents with something else brighter. Since the machine layout will be in flux for a while, ceiling cans are out. Besides, my local code requires conduit everywhere, and I'm not going thru that for ceiling cans. I was at the borg and picked up a couple of GE 24" halogen fixtures, thnking they would be nice and bright. I was dead wrong. Dim, compared to my flourescents. Probably good for a small area at best. The one thing I did like about them is they are linkable. Any ideas out there? Bright, and linkable would be good.... TIA, Mark |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
"mark" wrote in message ... Greetings All, I have a basement which has just a couple of 48" flourescents right now. I need to add more lighting and was looking at replacing the flourescents with something else brighter. Since the machine layout will be in flux for a while, ceiling cans are out. Besides, my local code requires conduit everywhere, and I'm not going thru that for ceiling cans. I was at the borg and picked up a couple of GE 24" halogen fixtures, thnking they would be nice and bright. I was dead wrong. Dim, compared to my flourescents. Probably good for a small area at best. The one thing I did like about them is they are linkable. Any ideas out there? Bright, and linkable would be good.... TIA, Mark I would reccomend mutiple floursecents. They are cool and cheap. The more, the better. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
I would reccomend mutiple floursecents. They are cool and cheap. The more,
the better. I agree with the fluorescents. You can put different color temperature tubes in, (instead of the stock ones that give everything that pukey green tint) which will give you much better results when staining. However, I recommend not going with the $8-11 garage fixtures. The ballasts last about a year and can not be replaced. At minimum, buy a fixture in which the ballast can be replaced. You should be able to find $15-18 fixtures with ballast replacement under 10 dollars. The ballasts will last at least a few years, and the fixture is stronger than tin foil. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... I would reccomend mutiple floursecents. They are cool and cheap. The more, the better. I agree with the fluorescents. You can put different color temperature tubes in, (instead of the stock ones that give everything that pukey green tint) which will give you much better results when staining. However, I recommend not going with the $8-11 garage fixtures. The ballasts last about a year and can not be replaced. At minimum, buy a fixture in which the ballast can be replaced. You should be able to find $15-18 fixtures with ballast replacement under 10 dollars. The ballasts will last at least a few years, and the fixture is stronger than tin foil. -- -MIKE- Man, I found those *great* $8.99 fixtures at Home Depot and put them up in my unheated shop. (Maryland so it's been a bit chilly for a while now.) The worst $60 I've spent for quite some time. Cold I could deal with... but cold and flickering lights is a bit stiff. Ed |
#5
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Shop Lighting opinions
On Jan 11, 6:55*pm, "Ed Edelenbos" wrote:
Man, I found those *great* $8.99 fixtures at Home Depot and put them up in my unheated shop. * (Maryland so it's been a bit chilly for a while now..) The worst $60 I've spent for quite some time. *Cold I could deal with.... but cold and flickering lights is a bit stiff. But isn't the endless buzzzzing kind of relaxing... |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
"Limp Arbor" wrote in message ... On Jan 11, 6:55 pm, "Ed Edelenbos" wrote: Man, I found those *great* $8.99 fixtures at Home Depot and put them up in my unheated shop. (Maryland so it's been a bit chilly for a while now.) The worst $60 I've spent for quite some time. Cold I could deal with... but cold and flickering lights is a bit stiff. But isn't the endless buzzzzing kind of relaxing... If it was a constant 60hz I could probably get used to it. The un-ending buzz---buzz---buzz--- of attempting to start (on up to 3 fixtures at a time) combined with the flickering is just downright dangerous with blades flying around. (grin) Ed (not ready for "Stumpy" as a nickname) |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
Man, I found those *great* $8.99 fixtures at Home Depot and put them up in my unheated shop. * (Maryland so it's been a bit chilly for a while now..) The worst $60 I've spent for quite some time. *Cold I could deal with.... but cold and flickering lights is a bit stiff. Ed: Take 'em back, demand a refund or try exchanging them if they are not all "Finicky" in the cold. I changed out a couple that did that - they are not all flickering in my case. Could be you got a bad lot. If you got 'em from Lowes, return them and get a set from Wal-Mart, or HD. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
On Sun, 11 Jan 2009 17:21:56 -0600, -MIKE- cast forth these pearls of
wisdom...: I would reccomend mutiple floursecents. They are cool and cheap. The more, the better. I agree with the fluorescents. You can put different color temperature tubes in, (instead of the stock ones that give everything that pukey green tint) which will give you much better results when staining. However, I recommend not going with the $8-11 garage fixtures. The ballasts last about a year and can not be replaced. At minimum, buy a fixture in which the ballast can be replaced. You should be able to find $15-18 fixtures with ballast replacement under 10 dollars. The ballasts will last at least a few years, and the fixture is stronger than tin foil. I have often recommended the $8 shop fixture from Home Depot. It has a 0 degree C ballast, and the ballast is easily changed if you were so inclined. I've had them hanging for a couple of years now and they've outlived the $35 fixtures I had in my garage. I have a furnace in my garage so it never gets much colder than around 40 F or so, and my Borg shop lights fire up immediately in those temps. No flicker, no buzz. I have 15 of them hanging in my garage, so it's not likely that I just got a couple of good ones. I was never able to find any ballasts for under $10, even though people say they have. Typically considerably more than that. At $8 for the whole fixture, it's kind of hard to beat the price. -- -Mike- |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
I would reccomend mutiple floursecents. They are cool and cheap. The more,
the better. I agree with the fluorescents. You can put different color temperature tubes in, (instead of the stock ones that give everything that pukey green tint) which will give you much better results when staining. However, I recommend not going with the $8-11 garage fixtures. The ballasts last about a year and can not be replaced. At minimum, buy a fixture in which the ballast can be replaced. You should be able to find $15-18 fixtures with ballast replacement under 10 dollars. The ballasts will last at least a few years, and the fixture is stronger than tin foil. I have often recommended the $8 shop fixture from Home Depot. It has a 0 degree C ballast, and the ballast is easily changed if you were so inclined. I've had them hanging for a couple of years now and they've outlived the $35 fixtures I had in my garage. I have a furnace in my garage so it never gets much colder than around 40 F or so, and my Borg shop lights fire up immediately in those temps. No flicker, no buzz. I have 15 of them hanging in my garage, so it's not likely that I just got a couple of good ones. I was never able to find any ballasts for under $10, even though people say they have. Typically considerably more than that. At $8 for the whole fixture, it's kind of hard to beat the price. Well, you've certainly had a different experience than me. For the last 9 years, I changed out those cheap ones, like they're disposable. None lasted more than 2 years, some less than a year. The ballasts were twice as much as the fixtures. When I did open one up, I found all the ballast parts scattered in the fixture housing, all attached in a different manner, with wiring all tangled and soldered. The ballasts for the $15 fixture is one a self contained metal housing and can be changed with one screw and a few wire nuts, without disassembling or un-mounting the fixture. Another $18 light had an integrated plug.. the ballast could be changed quicker than two tubes. :-) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
On Mon, 12 Jan 2009 11:45:45 -0600, -MIKE- cast forth these pearls of
wisdom...: Well, you've certainly had a different experience than me. For the last 9 years, I changed out those cheap ones, like they're disposable. None lasted more than 2 years, some less than a year. The ballasts were twice as much as the fixtures. When I did open one up, I found all the ballast parts scattered in the fixture housing, all attached in a different manner, with wiring all tangled and soldered. The ballasts for the $15 fixture is one a self contained metal housing and can be changed with one screw and a few wire nuts, without disassembling or un-mounting the fixture. Another $18 light had an integrated plug.. the ballast could be changed quicker than two tubes. :-) Are you talking about the $8 fixtures at HD Mike? That's the specific cheap fixture we're speaking about here. I've opened several of those up and have never seen what you describe. I did have a like experience with the $20 fixtures from Lowes. Pure junk. I'm pretty sure they were American Florescent. They quickly stop going into run mode and begin eating up bulbs like there is no tomorrow. Where are you getting the $18 dollar fixtures you're using? Brand? Always on the hunt for good stuff in case I later decide that the good stuff I've stumbled across does not turn out to be all that good. -- -Mike- |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
"ballasts last about a year and can not be replaced"
his has NOT been my personal experience on two counts. FIrst, I have cheap shop lights that have lasted over six years (and some that did not - see below). Second, you can replace the balasts in these fixtures - but the cost of the replacement is often half again or even twice the price of a replacement fixture. Add to this the fact that replacing the ballast involves removing the hanging fixture to the bench, opening it, cutting wires, adding wire nuts to connect the new ballast, reassembling and then re-hanging the fixture it makes no sense to replace the ballast even if the cost is a bit less than a new shoplight. PS: For those that "quit" prematurely, I have a great solution. I save the cartons they come in. Just need to save one carton of each brand. Then, if it quits, I simply return it and exchange it for a new one. If they have changed the packaging (they do from time to time to frustrate such returns), just buy a new one, slip the old one in the new box and return that one. They (retailers) know that a significant percentage of this Chinese stuff newer saw a QC test and count on the customer to accept the premature failure and buy a new one while calculating a higher "Returns & Allowances" factor in determining their "Markup." to account for the high crap rates. |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
Hoosierpopi wrote:
If they have changed the packaging (they do from time to time to frustrate such returns), just buy a new one, slip the old one in the new box and return that one. They (retailers) know that a significant percentage of this Chinese stuff newer saw a QC test and count on the customer to accept the premature failure and buy a new one while calculating a higher "Returns & Allowances" factor in determining their "Markup." to account for the high crap rates. Otherwise known as theft. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#13
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Shop Lighting opinions
-MIKE- wrote:
Hoosierpopi wrote: If they have changed the packaging (they do from time to time to frustrate such returns), just buy a new one, slip the old one in the new box and return that one. They (retailers) know that a significant percentage of this Chinese stuff newer saw a QC test and count on the customer to accept the premature failure and buy a new one while calculating a higher "Returns & Allowances" factor in determining their "Markup." to account for the high crap rates. Otherwise known as theft. Yeah, but they're screwing us over by selling us this Chinese junk so it's ok... -- "Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day." (From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago) To reply, eat the taco. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/ |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
-MIKE- wrote:
Hoosierpopi wrote: If they have changed the packaging (they do from time to time to frustrate such returns), just buy a new one, slip the old one in the new box and return that one. They (retailers) know that a significant percentage of this Chinese stuff newer saw a QC test and count on the customer to accept the premature failure and buy a new one while calculating a higher "Returns & Allowances" factor in determining their "Markup." to account for the high crap rates. Otherwise known as theft. Well, returning a product that fails in an unreasonable period of time (but outside the store's return policy) isn't quite theft. In the case of something the seller knows is likely to die an early death it's more like revenge than theft. Maybe revenge isn't all that admirable either, but neither is selling junk. |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
-MIKE- wrote:
Hoosierpopi wrote: If they have changed the packaging (they do from time to time to frustrate such returns), just buy a new one, slip the old one in the new box and return that one. They (retailers) know that a significant percentage of this Chinese stuff newer saw a QC test and count on the customer to accept the premature failure and buy a new one while calculating a higher "Returns & Allowances" factor in determining their "Markup." to account for the high crap rates. Otherwise known as theft. And it makes problems for other people. I got a backup power supply once on which some asshole had done that with the battery. Also got a modem, didn't work, took it back to BestBuy, swapped it out, that one didn't work, talked to the store manager and ended up going through five of the things before we found one that worked. And at Harbor Fright, one time, I got a nail gun that was supposed to come with a package of nails--no nails--again went through most of the store's stock before we found one with nails. It amazes me that people will steal a damn little box of nails. This is one example of the failure of ethics and enlightened self interest to adequately replace the fear of an all-knowing and vengeful God in moderating human behavior. -- -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#16
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Shop Lighting opinions
Lee Michaels wrote:
I would reccomend mutiple floursecents. They are cool and cheap. The more, the better. As a fellow basement dweller, I concur. The big problem with basement is ceiling height. With a low ceiling, you need far more fixtures per square foot, as the light doesn't get much chance to spread out. |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
"B A R R Y" wrote in message ... Lee Michaels wrote: I would reccomend mutiple floursecents. They are cool and cheap. The more, the better. As a fellow basement dweller, I concur. The big problem with basement is ceiling height. With a low ceiling, you need far more fixtures per square foot, as the light doesn't get much chance to spread out. Incentive to spread some white paint around. It always amazes me how that helps. Ed |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
Ed Edelenbos wrote:
"B A R R Y" wrote in message ... Lee Michaels wrote: I would reccomend mutiple floursecents. They are cool and cheap. The more, the better. As a fellow basement dweller, I concur. The big problem with basement is ceiling height. With a low ceiling, you need far more fixtures per square foot, as the light doesn't get much chance to spread out. Incentive to spread some white paint around. It always amazes me how that helps. Ed I'm smack in the middle of that very thing right now. I'm not even a third of the way done and it's already making a huge difference. -- "Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day." (From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago) To reply, eat the taco. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/ |
#19
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Shop Lighting opinions
Ed Edelenbos wrote:
"B A R R Y" wrote in message ... Lee Michaels wrote: I would reccomend mutiple floursecents. They are cool and cheap. The more, the better. As a fellow basement dweller, I concur. The big problem with basement is ceiling height. With a low ceiling, you need far more fixtures per square foot, as the light doesn't get much chance to spread out. Incentive to spread some white paint around. It always amazes me how that helps. Ed What he said, basement or any other shop -- white walls make a HUGE difference in ambient light, and frankly ambience as well. Much more cheerful and inspiring than gray cement or bare studs -- If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
On Sun, 11 Jan 2009 18:52:22 -0500, "Ed Edelenbos" wrote:
"B A R R Y" wrote in message . .. Lee Michaels wrote: I would reccomend mutiple floursecents. They are cool and cheap. The more, the better. As a fellow basement dweller, I concur. The big problem with basement is ceiling height. With a low ceiling, you need far more fixtures per square foot, as the light doesn't get much chance to spread out. Incentive to spread some white paint around. It always amazes me how that helps. Ed yep.. I also like mirrors, though they're a bitch to keep dusted.. I have several 18" x 30" mirrors from a garage sale and have them mounted high on walls and angles to reflect light towards the lathes and such.. Even one mirror makes quite a bit of difference.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
On Sun, 11 Jan 2009 18:21:51 -0500, B A R R Y wrote:
Lee Michaels wrote: I would reccomend mutiple floursecents. They are cool and cheap. The more, the better. As a fellow basement dweller, I concur. The big problem with basement is ceiling height. With a low ceiling, you need far more fixtures per square foot, as the light doesn't get much chance to spread out. Sort of a double edge sword though, Barry... My problem with fluorescent is that if you have high ceilings (mine are 10') the fluorescents diffuse... probably the wrong word?.. more than incandescent.. I've dropped some of my T-8 fixtures down a couple of feet and they're much more effective.. OTOH, I also have 2 or 3 goose neck lamps with incandescent "true color" bulbs, for when I want to see details when sanding and such.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
I also am in a basement shop with a low drop ceiling, About 7'6".
I have 4 twin tube, 4 ' flourescents hanging between the beams. True to their nature the light is fairly sterile and evenly dull. I solved it by looking at where I spent the majority of my tome and I installed and installed talk lighting in can type fixtures in the ceiling. I initially used incandescent bulbs but have gone to the high white cf bulbs. They give the room a bit more "natural" lighting and don't generate that much heat. I have "mac davis" wrote in message ... On Sun, 11 Jan 2009 18:21:51 -0500, B A R R Y wrote: Lee Michaels wrote: I would reccomend mutiple floursecents. They are cool and cheap. The more, the better. As a fellow basement dweller, I concur. The big problem with basement is ceiling height. With a low ceiling, you need far more fixtures per square foot, as the light doesn't get much chance to spread out. Sort of a double edge sword though, Barry... My problem with fluorescent is that if you have high ceilings (mine are 10') the fluorescents diffuse... probably the wrong word?.. more than incandescent.. I've dropped some of my T-8 fixtures down a couple of feet and they're much more effective.. OTOH, I also have 2 or 3 goose neck lamps with incandescent "true color" bulbs, for when I want to see details when sanding and such.. mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#23
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Shop Lighting opinions
"mark" wrote in message ... Greetings All, I have a basement which has just a couple of 48" flourescents right now. I need to add more lighting and was looking at replacing the flourescents with something else brighter. Since the machine layout will be in flux for a while, ceiling cans are out. Besides, my local code requires conduit everywhere, and I'm not going thru that for ceiling cans. I was at the borg and picked up a couple of GE 24" halogen fixtures, thnking they would be nice and bright. I was dead wrong. Dim, compared to my flourescents. Probably good for a small area at best. The one thing I did like about them is they are linkable. Any ideas out there? Bright, and linkable would be good.... TIA, Mark Mark, Replace your existing fixtures with ones that take the T8 bulbs. They are twice as bright as regular fluorescents for about the same cost. You may not have to add any more fixtures either - I didn't. Another advantage is that they don't flicker when the temp is cold. Bob S. |
#24
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Shop Lighting opinions
Bob S. wrote:
"mark" wrote in message ... Greetings All, I have a basement which has just a couple of 48" flourescents right now. I need to add more lighting and was looking at replacing the flourescents with something else brighter. Since the machine layout will be in flux for a while, ceiling cans are out. Besides, my local code requires conduit everywhere, and I'm not going thru that for ceiling cans. I was at the borg and picked up a couple of GE 24" halogen fixtures, thnking they would be nice and bright. I was dead wrong. Dim, compared to my flourescents. Probably good for a small area at best. The one thing I did like about them is they are linkable. Any ideas out there? Bright, and linkable would be good.... TIA, Mark Mark, Replace your existing fixtures with ones that take the T8 bulbs. They are twice as bright as regular fluorescents for about the same cost. You may not have to add any more fixtures either - I didn't. Another advantage is that they don't flicker when the temp is cold. Bob S. And they don't buzz and fizz. I changed over my main shop to T8 and now I hate to turn on the lights in the storage room which is still t12. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA Social Security: World's biggest Ponzi Scheme. |
#25
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Shop Lighting opinions
On Sun, 11 Jan 2009 18:15:33 -0500, Gerald Ross cast forth these pearls of
wisdom...: Bob S. wrote: "mark" wrote in message ... Greetings All, I have a basement which has just a couple of 48" flourescents right now. I need to add more lighting and was looking at replacing the flourescents with something else brighter. Since the machine layout will be in flux for a while, ceiling cans are out. Besides, my local code requires conduit everywhere, and I'm not going thru that for ceiling cans. I was at the borg and picked up a couple of GE 24" halogen fixtures, thnking they would be nice and bright. I was dead wrong. Dim, compared to my flourescents. Probably good for a small area at best. The one thing I did like about them is they are linkable. Any ideas out there? Bright, and linkable would be good.... TIA, Mark Mark, Replace your existing fixtures with ones that take the T8 bulbs. They are twice as bright as regular fluorescents for about the same cost. You may not have to add any more fixtures either - I didn't. Another advantage is that they don't flicker when the temp is cold. Bob S. And they don't buzz and fizz. I changed over my main shop to T8 and now I hate to turn on the lights in the storage room which is still t12. Both of those "advantages" are a function of the newer light fixture and bulb than they are of the T8 size. -- -Mike- |
#26
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Shop Lighting opinions
"Bob S." wrote in message ... Replace your existing fixtures with ones that take the T8 bulbs. They are twice as bright as regular fluorescents for about the same cost. You may not have to add any more fixtures either - I didn't. Another advantage is that they don't flicker when the temp is cold. Bob S. Something else to consider, CLEAN the existing bulbs, if they are dusty a lot of light is being blocked. |
#27
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Shop Lighting opinions
On Sun, 11 Jan 2009 14:51:31 -0600, "mark" wrote:
Greetings All, I have a basement which has just a couple of 48" flourescents right now. I need to add more lighting and was looking at replacing the flourescents with something else brighter. Since the machine layout will be in flux for a while, ceiling cans are out. Besides, my local code requires conduit everywhere, and I'm not going thru that for ceiling cans. I was at the borg and picked up a couple of GE 24" halogen fixtures, thnking they would be nice and bright. I was dead wrong. Dim, compared to my flourescents. Probably good for a small area at best. The one thing I did like about them is they are linkable. Any ideas out there? Bright, and linkable would be good.... TIA, Mark I have eight 4' flourescent fixtures with reflectors. I drilled a hole every 8" along the edges of the reflectors and fastened hardware cloth to the reflectors. This prevents a swinging 2x4 from hitting a tube, yet easy to replace a tube. I installed electrical outlets on the ceiling--each oulet has an extra outlet for future units if needed. The chains holding the lamps allow you to move the light as needs change. I wired my ceiling outlets to a bank of wall switches near the shop door. I'm very fortunate to have windows in my basement shop, great for sharpening. Still, I have adjustable incandescent task lamps near my bandsaw, drill press, lathe, miter saw, putting concentrated light near the cut. As I got older I needed more light. |
#28
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Shop Lighting opinions
Phisherman wrote:
I have eight 4' flourescent fixtures with reflectors. I drilled a hole every 8" along the edges of the reflectors and fastened hardware cloth to the reflectors. This prevents a swinging 2x4 from hitting a tube, yet easy to replace a tube. Great idea! I installed electrical outlets on the ceiling--each oulet has an extra outlet for future units if needed. I find the garage door opener outlet on the garage ceiling the most useful outlet in the building, it's always easy to reach, nothing is ever in the way, and it's a beefy circuit. I think I'm going to add another one. |
#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
On Sun, 11 Jan 2009 14:51:31 -0600, mark cast forth these pearls of
wisdom...: Greetings All, I have a basement which has just a couple of 48" flourescents right now. I need to add more lighting and was looking at replacing the flourescents with something else brighter. Since the machine layout will be in flux for a while, ceiling cans are out. Besides, my local code requires conduit everywhere, and I'm not going thru that for ceiling cans. I was at the borg and picked up a couple of GE 24" halogen fixtures, thnking they would be nice and bright. I was dead wrong. Dim, compared to my flourescents. Probably good for a small area at best. The one thing I did like about them is they are linkable. Any ideas out there? Bright, and linkable would be good.... TIA, Mark Where do you live that requires conduit for a simple lighting run in a basement? What a pain. I'd just hang some more florescents. You can get different heat ranges that will provide much better light - just look at the bulbs in your local Borg. -- -Mike- |
#30
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Shop Lighting opinions
Whatever you do for additional lighting, also consider making the walls
and ceiling lighter in color to reflect more light. I have a long, narrow shop. It has 5 2 tube 4' flourescents running down the middle. And then, along each edge of the room, 4 more of them. The main light switches (3 ways, at each door) turns on the middle section and separate switches turn on the lights on each edge of the shop. The whole shop is painted white. Even with all that, I still do have task lights (incandescent) at the lathe and the scroll saw. Just a note on height: This shop has 9 foot ceilings. But I still didn't want the lamps in the way if I'm standing up an 8 foot sheet of something, so instead of the chains that hold the fixtures up, I screwed them right to the ceiling (with a 1" spacer). This set up works quite well. Pete Stanaitis ---------------- mark wrote: Greetings All, I have a basement which has just a couple of 48" flourescents right now. I need to add more lighting and was looking at replacing the flourescents with something else brighter. Since the machine layout will be in flux for a while, ceiling cans are out. Besides, my local code requires conduit everywhere, and I'm not going thru that for ceiling cans. I was at the borg and picked up a couple of GE 24" halogen fixtures, thnking they would be nice and bright. I was dead wrong. Dim, compared to my flourescents. Probably good for a small area at best. The one thing I did like about them is they are linkable. Any ideas out there? Bright, and linkable would be good.... TIA, Mark |
#31
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Shop Lighting opinions
What is the purpose of the 1" spacer?
SteveP. "spaco" wrote in message .. . But I still didn't want the lamps in the way if I'm standing up an 8 foot sheet of something, so instead of the chains that hold the fixtures up, I screwed them right to the ceiling (with a 1" spacer). This set up works quite well. Pete Stanaitis ---------------- mark wrote: Greetings All, I have a basement which has just a couple of 48" flourescents right now. I need to add more lighting and was looking at replacing the flourescents with something else brighter. Since the machine layout will be in flux for a while, ceiling cans are out. Besides, my local code requires conduit everywhere, and I'm not going thru that for ceiling cans. I was at the borg and picked up a couple of GE 24" halogen fixtures, thnking they would be nice and bright. I was dead wrong. Dim, compared to my flourescents. Probably good for a small area at best. The one thing I did like about them is they are linkable. Any ideas out there? Bright, and linkable would be good.... TIA, Mark |
#32
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Shop Lighting opinions
Highland Pairos wrote:
What is the purpose of the 1" spacer? Airflow to dissipate heat. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#33
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
On Mon, 12 Jan 2009 10:38:48 -0500, Highland Pairos cast forth these pearls
of wisdom...: What is the purpose of the 1" spacer? SteveP. "spaco" wrote in message .. . But I still didn't want the lamps in the way if I'm standing up an 8 foot sheet of something, so instead of the chains that hold the fixtures up, I screwed them right to the ceiling (with a 1" spacer). This set up works quite well. Pete Stanaitis ---------------- mark wrote: Greetings All, I have a basement which has just a couple of 48" flourescents right now. I need to add more lighting and was looking at replacing the flourescents with something else brighter. Since the machine layout will be in flux for a while, ceiling cans are out. Besides, my local code requires conduit everywhere, and I'm not going thru that for ceiling cans. I was at the borg and picked up a couple of GE 24" halogen fixtures, thnking they would be nice and bright. I was dead wrong. Dim, compared to my flourescents. Probably good for a small area at best. The one thing I did like about them is they are linkable. Any ideas out there? Bright, and linkable would be good.... TIA, Mark To allow the ballast to cool. Most ballasts cannot be mounted directly to a surface - they need airflow. -- -Mike- |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
Yup, heat dissipation. It appears that the ballasts are mounted tight
to the metal "shade", using it as a sort of heat sink. Pete Stanaitis -------------------- Mike Marlow wrote: On Mon, 12 Jan 2009 10:38:48 -0500, Highland Pairos cast forth these pearls of wisdom...: What is the purpose of the 1" spacer? SteveP. |
#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
looking at replacing the flourescents with something else brighter.
As I age, I can appreciate the need for strong lighting in the shop. What I and my buddy have done is to paint the place white - walls and ceilings - high gloss "Ultra White" from HD, then we went with the fluorescents you are ready to replace. John went with the eight-foot two-bulb fixtures, I went with the cheap ($8.79) "Shoplights" from HD or Lowes. In either case, replacing the fixture is about the same price (8ft) or cheaper (4ft) than replacing the ballasts when they go. Transporting the eight-footers is a bit much, I think, and they need to be "wired-in." The shoplights come with a power cord that allows for simply plugging in the fixture and hanging it upon a couple of screw eyes (or a bent nail and this makes it easy to re-arrange the position of the fixture should your first educated guess prove to be off a few cm. You can use the current location of your power outlets as a guide, but I went with a uniform "string of fixtures about six-foot on center in each direction (lengthwise - widthwise) to locate the duplex outlets in my ceiling and wired one side Hot and the other switched. Using X-10 outlets, one could easily control area lighting in a large shop with this approach and I have done that as well in one shp which has two "sections" so as not to waste power but still allow one of the "three-way" switches to control the lighting (and charging station) circuit. THis circuit also controls power to the compressor so it doesn't recharge at three AM and wake the wife to wake me to go shut it off! So, I say "stay with fluorescents- just add more of them! |
#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
On Jan 11, 2:51*pm, "mark" wrote:
Greetings All, *I have a basement which has just a couple of 48" flourescents right now. I need to add more lighting and was looking at replacing the flourescents with something else brighter. Since the machine layout will be in flux for a while, ceiling cans are out. Besides, my local code requires conduit everywhere, and I'm not going thru that for ceiling cans. I was at the borg and picked up a couple of GE 24" halogen fixtures, thnking they would be nice and bright. I was dead wrong. Dim, compared to my flourescents. Probably good for a small area at best. The one thing I did like about them is they are linkable. Any ideas out there? Bright, and linkable would be good.... *TIA, Mark I've installed 37 4 foot 2 bulb fluorescent fixtures in my basement. About $20 each from Menards. Don't notice any buzzing or flickering. Not cheap at $20 per fixture. And they do need to be wired in. So that takes time and effort. But I'm happy with all of the light. Using the cheap bulbs because they are $0.80 per bulb compared to the $5 per bulb for the high CRI bulbs. Couldn't quite reconcile the difference. White walls and white floor are wonderful. Conduit as opposed to regular old 12/2 sheathed wire? Odd codes. |
#37
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
wrote in message I've installed 37 4 foot 2 bulb fluorescent fixtures in my basement. About $20 each from Menards. That's a whole lot of fixtures and light bulbs. Do the street lights in your neighbourhood dim when you turn on your basement lights? How big *is* your basement? |
#38
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
On Jan 12, 1:48*pm, "Upscale" wrote:
wrote in message I've installed 37 4 foot 2 bulb fluorescent fixtures in my basement. About $20 each from Menards. That's a whole lot of fixtures and light bulbs. Do the street lights in your neighbourhood dim when you turn on your basement lights? How big *is* your basement? I like light. 1200 square feet. Approximately two rectangular rooms of 600 sq ft each. Six rows of three light fixtures each. With another one light behind the staircase. White painted walls and white painted floor. |
#39
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
wrote in message ... On Jan 12, 1:48 pm, "Upscale" wrote: wrote in message I've installed 37 4 foot 2 bulb fluorescent fixtures in my basement. About $20 each from Menards. That's a whole lot of fixtures and light bulbs. Do the street lights in your neighbourhood dim when you turn on your basement lights? How big *is* your basement? I like light. 1200 square feet. Approximately two rectangular rooms of 600 sq ft each. Six rows of three light fixtures each. With another one light behind the staircase. White painted walls and white painted floor. A 1200 sq ft shop! That's huge! It would take me over a month to fill that size shop with half finished projects, cutoffs, new stock, old stock, half refurbed equipment, coffee cups, etc. You are lucky. Larry C |
#40
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Lighting opinions
1200 square feet. Approximately two rectangular rooms
of 600 sq ft each. Six rows of three light fixtures each. With another one light behind the staircase. White painted walls and white painted floor. Drive-by. You suck. jc |
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