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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Opinions for heating shop
Hi all.
Well, froze me socks of yesterday, so its time to look into heating for my shop. Details: - Outdoor, above ground shop, ~75' from my house (read closest NG supply). - ~16x18 feet. 8 foot ceilings *except* the center portion (lets say about 16x6 feet thats open straight up (for a skylight). - All walls are insulated with R12 pink. - Portions of the ceiling are R20 where i could, other is R12 - Floor is _not_ insulated (ill do this next year if i need to), wont be easy since drywall sits on top of plywood floor, and i cant get underneath from outside. My dilema: I only have 40amps out here. God knows im kicking myself for cheaping out on wire when i buried it, but thats all ive got. So any serious electric heat means the strongest power tool i can use is a hand saw. What i've got right now: An "industrial" electirc fan heater. It draws 20 amps at 220v iirc. It outputs ~16,000 BTU's. Hooked it up yesterday, I cant see it providing enough heat. Plus it eats up a good chunk of power. What Im considering: - One of those free standing radiant propane heaters - ie "http://www.propaneshop.com/mall/more.asp" - which is rated at 8-42k btu. Question: Any comments? - A forced air propane heater - ie http://www.heatershop.com/propane_fo...ir_30_fas.html Question: Comments? AND I worried about risk of explosion since it would be pulling in duty shop air. Valid? OR do you have any other comments or suggestions on what avenue I might go for heating? One approach I considered was wall a hung radiant propane heater for ~1000.00 with plenty of heat (like 70k btu) - however this bad boy required a dedicated propane tank installed outside beside my shop. Since my shop is in my backyard, surrouned by hedges and nowhere close to the driveway for refilling the tank, this isnt really an option (nor is getting getting it past my wife, she would consider that an "eyesore"). Plus im not really up on spending 1000 bucks on a heating system Running NG from the house is another possibily, but my guess is the cost of that would be up there given the need for professionals to do some of the instal, etc etc. Much thanks for your comments! |
#2
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Opinions for heating shop
Regarding one of the radiant heaters...correct me if I'm wrong (as if
that doesn't happen *automatically* on this newsgroup...), but I think one of the byproducts of the radiant propane heaters is water vapor. It's one of the reasons campers won't use them in small tents because they cause condensation to form and everything gets wet. Now, given your shop air is not currently being "treated," this is probably no big deal. But could this possibly aggravate a rust problem on tool steel? |
#3
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Opinions for heating shop
this quarters issue of fine woodworking magazine has an article on this very
subject. gives the pro's and cons of the different types of heating systems.go though your local bookstore and read it. Len |
#4
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Opinions for heating shop
Wood burning stove. If you're like most woodworkers, your scraps will
keep you warm and keep the shop clean. |
#5
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Opinions for heating shop
Duke of Burl wrote:
Wood burning stove. If you're like most woodworkers, your scraps will keep you warm and keep the shop clean. Insurance costs might be higher though. Chris |
#6
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Opinions for heating shop
re water byproduct. Good point - Ive heard this as well, and ive also
heard that rust on tools is an issue. re Woodworking magazine having article - will do, thanks, though im hesitant. re Wood burning stove. Id be all over this. But honestly - an open fire in a workshop with plenty of dust flying around scares me (unless I go airtight, what I have in the house). And that aside, i just can't see my insurance company going for this, but who knows, I will look into it. Thanks all, keep those responses coming! |
#7
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Opinions for heating shop
IMHO, I would not use an unvented heater anywhere. In addition to producing
water as a byproduct of combustion, they also pump carbon dioxide into your workspace. For a shop, a good choice is a vented, ceiling-mounted tube heater. Some (but not the only) sites for info): http://www.airmechanicalinc.com/page54.html http://www.agradiant.com/ --Jim |
#8
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Opinions for heating shop
I don't have much bare steel in my garage so I use a propane
forced-air heater with a 50# tank (about as much as I want to carry). It's shaped like the kerosene-fueled models; cylindrical with air in one end and flame out the other. It's adjustable 30-40-50 thousand btu. No thermostat, so I must turn it off when I start sweating. It does not get very cold in north Texas, so heating the area sufficiently around me does not take long. The little fan only draws about 3 amps 110V. I don't really have any dust since I'm usually working on a vehicle. I have one of the radiant heads that sits on a propane bottle. That's a rather large red-hot piece of metal that can burn skin easily. It's quiet too, so you don't realize that it's hot until you are very close. All the heat goes straight up except for the radiant heat that is felt about 12-18 inches away. On 28 Nov 2005 12:51:29 -0800, wrote: What Im considering: - A forced air propane heater - ie http://www.heatershop.com/propane_fo...ir_30_fas.html Question: Comments? AND I worried about risk of explosion since it would be pulling in duty shop air. Valid? |
#9
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Opinions for heating shop
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#10
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Opinions for heating shop
Unless you want to run another gas line, or upgrade the electric, you need
"portable" fuel. This could be wood, kero or propane. I'd suggest checking on prices to see what is most affordable and the heater to go with it. I currently heat with kero and a fireplace I salvaged from a job (which is nice....especially when it's real cold and snowy, the shop is "cozy") The torpedo kero heater gets the shop warm quickly and the fire maintains it. My plans are to replace the fireplace (they are nice, but inefficient) with a wood burner and add a propane heater (our tank is 12' from the shop) to keep things warm. In your case, kero or wood is probably the way to go. A torpedo will warm it up quickly, but they are noisy. A radiant heater, although quiet, will take longer. Keep in mind that any unvented heater will add water vapor to the air in your shop, whether it be kero or propane or natural gas etc.. Personally, my biggest problem with water vapor causing rust is in springtime when the heaters are not running, but the humidity is high. Having a wood burner would probably be the least expensive to operate, you can burn scraps, branches that fall off your trees, trash, etc... It costs me about $75 a season for wood to keep the fireplace stocked and about the same in kero for a season. Propane is expensive, and IMO unless you have a large tank, or don't heat your shop much, is a pain to have to go get a tank filled all the time. My .02... Good luck and saty warm! --dave wrote in message oups.com... Hi all. Well, froze me socks of yesterday, so its time to look into heating for my shop. Details: - Outdoor, above ground shop, ~75' from my house (read closest NG supply). - ~16x18 feet. 8 foot ceilings *except* the center portion (lets say about 16x6 feet thats open straight up (for a skylight). - All walls are insulated with R12 pink. - Portions of the ceiling are R20 where i could, other is R12 - Floor is _not_ insulated (ill do this next year if i need to), wont be easy since drywall sits on top of plywood floor, and i cant get underneath from outside. My dilema: I only have 40amps out here. God knows im kicking myself for cheaping out on wire when i buried it, but thats all ive got. So any serious electric heat means the strongest power tool i can use is a hand saw. What i've got right now: An "industrial" electirc fan heater. It draws 20 amps at 220v iirc. It outputs ~16,000 BTU's. Hooked it up yesterday, I cant see it providing enough heat. Plus it eats up a good chunk of power. What Im considering: - One of those free standing radiant propane heaters - ie "http://www.propaneshop.com/mall/more.asp" - which is rated at 8-42k btu. Question: Any comments? - A forced air propane heater - ie http://www.heatershop.com/propane_fo...ir_30_fas.html Question: Comments? AND I worried about risk of explosion since it would be pulling in duty shop air. Valid? OR do you have any other comments or suggestions on what avenue I might go for heating? One approach I considered was wall a hung radiant propane heater for ~1000.00 with plenty of heat (like 70k btu) - however this bad boy required a dedicated propane tank installed outside beside my shop. Since my shop is in my backyard, surrouned by hedges and nowhere close to the driveway for refilling the tank, this isnt really an option (nor is getting getting it past my wife, she would consider that an "eyesore"). Plus im not really up on spending 1000 bucks on a heating system Running NG from the house is another possibily, but my guess is the cost of that would be up there given the need for professionals to do some of the instal, etc etc. Much thanks for your comments! |
#11
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Opinions for heating shop
wrote in message
oups.com... Hi all. Well, froze me socks of yesterday, so its time to look into heating for my shop. Details: - Outdoor, above ground shop, ~75' from my house (read closest NG supply). - ~16x18 feet. 8 foot ceilings *except* the center portion (lets say about 16x6 feet thats open straight up (for a skylight). - All walls are insulated with R12 pink. - Portions of the ceiling are R20 where i could, other is R12 - Floor is _not_ insulated (ill do this next year if i need to), wont be easy since drywall sits on top of plywood floor, and i cant get underneath from outside. My dilema: I only have 40amps out here. God knows im kicking myself for cheaping out on wire when i buried it, but thats all ive got. So any serious electric heat means the strongest power tool i can use is a hand saw. What i've got right now: An "industrial" electirc fan heater. It draws 20 amps at 220v iirc. It outputs ~16,000 BTU's. Hooked it up yesterday, I cant see it providing enough heat. Plus it eats up a good chunk of power. What Im considering: - One of those free standing radiant propane heaters - ie "http://www.propaneshop.com/mall/more.asp" - which is rated at 8-42k btu. Question: Any comments? - A forced air propane heater - ie http://www.heatershop.com/propane_fo...ir_30_fas.html Question: Comments? AND I worried about risk of explosion since it would be pulling in duty shop air. Valid? OR do you have any other comments or suggestions on what avenue I might go for heating? One approach I considered was wall a hung radiant propane heater for ~1000.00 with plenty of heat (like 70k btu) - however this bad boy required a dedicated propane tank installed outside beside my shop. Since my shop is in my backyard, surrouned by hedges and nowhere close to the driveway for refilling the tank, this isnt really an option (nor is getting getting it past my wife, she would consider that an "eyesore"). Plus im not really up on spending 1000 bucks on a heating system Running NG from the house is another possibily, but my guess is the cost of that would be up there given the need for professionals to do some of the instal, etc etc. Much thanks for your comments! Lots of good advice so far. I'll give you my 2c as well. I use a large kero heater for my 2 1/3 bay garage/shop (Just shy of 500 sq ft). Its uninsulated on 2 sides (2 sides adjoin house) garage doors are aluminum type. Mine is 30K BTU if I remember correctly. Lows sells one, I think I got mine there or at the Orange store, I don't remember. It takes a couple of hours to bring it up to a comfortable temp when its really cold (like 20deg F). It can maintain temp in garage at any experienced outside temp so far. Anyway, my kero heater is the circular type, not the bullet type. One similar is here http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...5C7&lpage=none In fact that may be the one I have. OK - Another option - I have a cottage. No insulation. off ground, on piers. Built in 1887. I have an unvented comfortglow 30K BTU Blue Flame propane heater. I have a 100lb bottle that I use a service to fill up. I only use the cottage on weekends and for a week straight in summer. I do not use it after the end of October until about March. We do have some cool nights in the early spring or late fall. Anyway - This heater mounts to the wall, has a thermostat and a blower. It does a great job at heating the cottage (about 900 sq ft). I did not put one of these in my garage because my wall space is a precious commodity. http://www.comfortglow.com/blueflame/cb30t.html Good luck and let us know what you decide. |
#12
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Opinions for heating shop
On Mon 28 Nov 2005 02:51:29p, wrote in
oups.com: - A forced air propane heater - ie http://www.heatershop.com/propane_fo...ir_30_fas.html Question: Comments? AND I worried about risk of explosion since it would be pulling in duty shop air. Valid? OR do you have any other comments or suggestions on what avenue I might go for heating? A woodworking coworker told me he invested in the propane version of a Hot Dawg system. http://store.patiohearth.com/hotdagahehdf.html It vents *and* takes its air from the outside. No condensation. He really likes it. Runs it 24/7 to keep the cast iron at 45 or so, turns it up about an hour before he uses the shop. We're in south central Wisconsin. I'd get it myself but he's out in the country and I'm in the city where the red tape is so bad I quit researching before I'd found out about every permit, inspection, and licensed contractor I'd need before I was done. It looks like electric is the only way for me but fortunately it also looks like I'll be okay with a 30 amp heater. (I don't really WANT to brag, but I got 60 amps in my garashop, neener, neener, neener.) Oh, his shop is a converted two-car. Can't remember the dimensions. I know he's got lots more room than my 20x19. |
#13
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Opinions for heating shop
That seems like a pretty slick solution but slick will cost ya. Seems
thermostaticly controlled too! Nice. "Dan" wrote in message .. . On Mon 28 Nov 2005 02:51:29p, wrote in oups.com: - A forced air propane heater - ie http://www.heatershop.com/propane_fo...ir_30_fas.html Question: Comments? AND I worried about risk of explosion since it would be pulling in duty shop air. Valid? OR do you have any other comments or suggestions on what avenue I might go for heating? A woodworking coworker told me he invested in the propane version of a Hot Dawg system. http://store.patiohearth.com/hotdagahehdf.html It vents *and* takes its air from the outside. No condensation. He really likes it. Runs it 24/7 to keep the cast iron at 45 or so, turns it up about an hour before he uses the shop. We're in south central Wisconsin. I'd get it myself but he's out in the country and I'm in the city where the red tape is so bad I quit researching before I'd found out about every permit, inspection, and licensed contractor I'd need before I was done. It looks like electric is the only way for me but fortunately it also looks like I'll be okay with a 30 amp heater. (I don't really WANT to brag, but I got 60 amps in my garashop, neener, neener, neener.) Oh, his shop is a converted two-car. Can't remember the dimensions. I know he's got lots more room than my 20x19. |
#14
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Opinions for heating shop
Somebody wrote:
Hi all. Well, froze me socks of yesterday, so its time to look into heating for my shop. Details: - Outdoor, above ground shop, ~75' from my house (read closest NG supply). - ~16x18 feet. 8 foot ceilings *except* the center portion (lets say about 16x6 feet thats open straight up (for a skylight). - All walls are insulated with R12 pink. - Portions of the ceiling are R20 where i could, other is R12 - Floor is _not_ insulated (ill do this next year if i need to), wont be easy since drywall sits on top of plywood floor, and i cant get underneath from outside. My dilema: I only have 40amps out here. God knows im kicking myself for cheaping out on wire when i buried it, but thats all ive got. So any serious electric heat means the strongest power tool i can use is a hand saw. IMHO, this job cries out for one thing: SOLAR. When you install the solar, scrap out the sky light. Lew |
#15
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Opinions for heating shop
You've had a bunch of great suggestions, I'll add another. When I lived in
Kodiak Alaska, we used a waste oil heater in our boat barn. It will run off of just about anything petroleum based including used motor oil. Locals would bring oil to us and we heated the shop very cheaply. When no used oil was available we'd burn whatever was cheapest (usually heating oil or diesel) at the time. Just a suggestion. -- Rich Harris :1986 CJ7, Detroits F/R, 4:10's, 33"BFGMT's, Mopar F/I, 4.0L head, Rubicon Express 2.5" Wrangler springs, Procomp MX6 Shocks, and a bunch more fun stuff. To Reply; shave my hair. wrote in message oups.com... Hi all. Well, froze me socks of yesterday, so its time to look into heating for my shop. Details: - Outdoor, above ground shop, ~75' from my house (read closest NG supply). - ~16x18 feet. 8 foot ceilings *except* the center portion (lets say about 16x6 feet thats open straight up (for a skylight). - All walls are insulated with R12 pink. - Portions of the ceiling are R20 where i could, other is R12 - Floor is _not_ insulated (ill do this next year if i need to), wont be easy since drywall sits on top of plywood floor, and i cant get underneath from outside. My dilema: I only have 40amps out here. God knows im kicking myself for cheaping out on wire when i buried it, but thats all ive got. So any serious electric heat means the strongest power tool i can use is a hand saw. What i've got right now: An "industrial" electirc fan heater. It draws 20 amps at 220v iirc. It outputs ~16,000 BTU's. Hooked it up yesterday, I cant see it providing enough heat. Plus it eats up a good chunk of power. What Im considering: - One of those free standing radiant propane heaters - ie "http://www.propaneshop.com/mall/more.asp" - which is rated at 8-42k btu. Question: Any comments? - A forced air propane heater - ie http://www.heatershop.com/propane_fo...ir_30_fas.html Question: Comments? AND I worried about risk of explosion since it would be pulling in duty shop air. Valid? OR do you have any other comments or suggestions on what avenue I might go for heating? One approach I considered was wall a hung radiant propane heater for ~1000.00 with plenty of heat (like 70k btu) - however this bad boy required a dedicated propane tank installed outside beside my shop. Since my shop is in my backyard, surrouned by hedges and nowhere close to the driveway for refilling the tank, this isnt really an option (nor is getting getting it past my wife, she would consider that an "eyesore"). Plus im not really up on spending 1000 bucks on a heating system Running NG from the house is another possibily, but my guess is the cost of that would be up there given the need for professionals to do some of the instal, etc etc. Much thanks for your comments! |
#17
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Opinions for heating shop
Very interesting D'Bonnie, thank you - what youre saying verifies what
I already decided to do. (Your old shop sounds identical to mine (which I thought was nice, albiet before i saw the pic of your new shop - any shots of the inside? ).) Anyway, after messing around outside last night I'm not so worried. With the heater running I could still run my 3 1/4 HP router and my mitre saw at the same time without tripping a breaker. As you note, as long as I can run one machine with the heater on I should be fine. I dont have a DC yet, but the small scale ones im looking at only draw a couple amps, so no big deal there. Though based on calculations, im still suprised that a 16k BTU heater would be able to warm up and maintain the sq2 footage we are talking about - but then maybe its becasue we are Canadians - warm to us is differnt to warm for a southern america (ie didnt someone earlier say they fliped on the heater when the temp his 60f outside?) So, my current plan is: A forced air Kerosen (possibly propane, im going to research price here), prob ~50k BTU. Ill flip that beast on first thing to warm the place up quick and thats it. Ill leave the electric heater on to keep the chill off and I think ill be good. Final Question: People arm of water vapour with unvented heaters. Makes sense. Im planning on bringing the de-humidifer from the basement out to the shop for the winter - not likes its needed inside during that time anyway. Any reason why this wouldnt work? Thanks for responses everyone, all interesting. |
#18
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Opinions for heating shop
(snip)
Final Question: People arm of water vapour with unvented heaters. Makes sense. Im planning on bringing the de-humidifer from the basement out to the shop for the winter - not likes its needed inside during that time anyway. Any reason why this wouldnt work? Thanks for responses everyone, all interesting. Well... label on my shop dehumidifier sez only use at temps 60 degrees and higher. Coil freezes up otherwise. I suppose you could aim the heater at the coil, enough to melt the ice but not to warm it up enough so that it doesn't work. But then, all you're doing is evaporating the water back into the air. As I think and write... you may be able to put the back of the dehumidifier sticking outside, with a heater on it... nahhh... too geeky. With respect to large hunks of cast iron, though, I grabbed a couple of magnetic engine block heaters that I'm going to be sticking to the large hunks this winter. They're about 100 watts or so, but left on all the time, they should keep the cast iron warm enough to avoid condensation on the "cold night/damp morning" transitions. My shop is not heated full-time, but I did just pick up an 80000BTU reznor shop heater (really too big for my space, but the price was right) that might find a home in there -- as soon as I plumb for gas. And lots of it. "Chip" in Columbus |
#19
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Opinions for heating shop
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#20
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Opinions for heating shop
But honestly - an open fire
in a workshop with plenty of dust flying around scares me (unless I go airtight, what I have in the house). Are you worried about a dust explosion or a simple fire started in a nearby dust pile? If its the former, my router's brushes throw off enough sparks to be an issue, and I'm sure you have some tools that do as well. |
#21
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Opinions for heating shop
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#22
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Opinions for heating shop
But with a vented system, most goes up the flue. With the system he's
talking about, it stays in the shop. |
#23
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Opinions for heating shop
In article . com, "Duke of Burl" wrote:
But with a vented system, most goes up the flue. With the system he's talking about, it stays in the shop. Point is, it doesn't matter what he's burning, or what he's burning it *in*, there's gonna be water vapor produced. Some of it will wind up in the shop. More winds up in the shop if it's unvented, true, but *any* combustion heater will put some water vapor in the shop. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#24
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Opinions for heating shop
Im worried about the dust explosion. I dont know enough on the subject
to know if those are warrented. It makes sense to me that with plentry of dust in the air, and a open flame heater that takes in that dust filled there would be some sort of explosion hazard. Warranted? |
#25
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Opinions for heating shop
If there's so much dust in the shop that there's a possiblility of
explosion, you'd probably suffocate before it could happen. IOW, don't worry about it. |
#26
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Opinions for heating shop
wrote:
Very interesting D'Bonnie, thank you - what youre saying verifies what I already decided to do. (Your old shop sounds identical to mine (which I thought was nice, albiet before i saw the pic of your new shop - any shots of the inside? ).) Anyway, after messing around outside last night I'm not so worried. With the heater running I could still run my 3 1/4 HP router and my mitre saw at the same time without tripping a breaker. As you note, as long as I can run one machine with the heater on I should be fine. I dont have a DC yet, but the small scale ones im looking at only draw a couple amps, so no big deal there. Though based on calculations, im still suprised that a 16k BTU heater would be able to warm up and maintain the sq2 footage we are talking about - but then maybe its becasue we are Canadians - warm to us is differnt to warm for a southern america (ie didnt someone earlier say they fliped on the heater when the temp his 60f outside?) So, my current plan is: A forced air Kerosen (possibly propane, im going to research price here), prob ~50k BTU. Ill flip that beast on first thing to warm the place up quick and thats it. Ill leave the electric heater on to keep the chill off and I think ill be good. Final Question: People arm of water vapour with unvented heaters. Makes sense. Im planning on bringing the de-humidifer from the basement out to the shop for the winter - not likes its needed inside during that time anyway. Any reason why this wouldnt work? Thanks for responses everyone, all interesting. I may have a humidity problem this winter. I have about 5000 brd. ft. of lumber drying in my garage/shop. Finding room to move is a challenge at the moment. Your humidity problems will likely be the result of temperature changes. De-humidifiers work well, until they freeze solid. Their efficiency tends to drop a tad after that. Give this a think. http://groups.google.com/groups?q=ru...ls&qt_s=Search I use TopCote. Seem to be working. As for the inside of the big shed, imagine lots of drywall thats about half way done priming, and a whole lot of empty. The empty part is what the wood pile is all about. |
#27
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Opinions for heating shop
I have a 24 by 32 foot shop with 10 foot ceiling in
Delaware. I heat it with a Hot Dawg 45,000 BTU propane heater hanging from the ceiling. It operates on a 15 amp circuit and does a great job. Go to this site to look at them. http://www.qcsupply.net/hdmodineng.html Frank wrote in message oups.com... Hi all. Well, froze me socks of yesterday, so its time to look into heating for my shop. Details: - Outdoor, above ground shop, ~75' from my house (read closest NG supply). - ~16x18 feet. 8 foot ceilings *except* the center portion (lets say about 16x6 feet thats open straight up (for a skylight). - All walls are insulated with R12 pink. - Portions of the ceiling are R20 where i could, other is R12 - Floor is _not_ insulated (ill do this next year if i need to), wont be easy since drywall sits on top of plywood floor, and i cant get underneath from outside. My dilema: I only have 40amps out here. God knows im kicking myself for cheaping out on wire when i buried it, but thats all ive got. So any serious electric heat means the strongest power tool i can use is a hand saw. What i've got right now: An "industrial" electirc fan heater. It draws 20 amps at 220v iirc. It outputs ~16,000 BTU's. Hooked it up yesterday, I cant see it providing enough heat. Plus it eats up a good chunk of power. What Im considering: - One of those free standing radiant propane heaters - ie "http://www.propaneshop.com/mall/more.asp" - which is rated at 8-42k btu. Question: Any comments? - A forced air propane heater - ie http://www.heatershop.com/propane_fo...ir_30_fas.html Question: Comments? AND I worried about risk of explosion since it would be pulling in duty shop air. Valid? OR do you have any other comments or suggestions on what avenue I might go for heating? One approach I considered was wall a hung radiant propane heater for ~1000.00 with plenty of heat (like 70k btu) - however this bad boy required a dedicated propane tank installed outside beside my shop. Since my shop is in my backyard, surrouned by hedges and nowhere close to the driveway for refilling the tank, this isnt really an option (nor is getting getting it past my wife, she would consider that an "eyesore"). Plus im not really up on spending 1000 bucks on a heating system Running NG from the house is another possibily, but my guess is the cost of that would be up there given the need for professionals to do some of the instal, etc etc. Much thanks for your comments! |
#28
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Opinions for heating shop
latecomer to this thread. Your planned approach (Forced air kero heater
for the "heavy lifting" and an electric unit to keep the edge off) makes sense. There was alot of concern about moisture as a byproduct of combustion. Curious what you did.. The Salamander (what we call the kero topredo 'round here) is a sound choice for periodic use (as opposed to maintaining constant temp). The shop is an out-building with an uninsulated floor, then theres more moisture coming thru the floor (concrete?) than a kero or propane heater will throw i bet. So What Did you go with and how is it working? MikeD |
#29
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Opinions for heating shop
Final Question: People arm of water vapour with unvented heaters. Makes sense. Im planning on bringing the de-humidifer from the basement out to the shop for the winter - not likes its needed inside during that time anyway. Any reason why this wouldnt work? Way late on this thread but this might help someone. There are "basement" dehumidifiers that specifically address the colder ambient temperatures. Interesting sidelight is that they'll generate heat for the area as well. Got mine at Graingers. Best if you run the drain through a hose to the outside instead of worrying about emptying the tank. TomNie |
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