Does anyone know of a source for large diameter 1-1/2"+ threaded
dowels. All my search has turned up so far are the Beall jigs. This
would work but I only need a foot or two and the jigs are pricey.
Harbor freight has a cheaper unit but it's only 1" and...well...it's
harbor freight. Shop-made thread box (such as in the Workbench Book)
is a bit beyond my capability as yet. I'd just as soon buy the dowel
(and nut) already made.

Thanks in advance.
Daryl

PS: If it matters this is to be used in a bench vise.

Mike Dunbar wrote an article for Fine Woodworking Tools & Shops special
issue (Winter 2001/2002, No 153) in which he described building a workbench
with wooden vice screws. The screws were pruchased from Crystal Creek Mill,
PO Box 41, DeWitt, NY 13214, Telephone (315) 446-1229. Contact Howard, he
has or can make just about any size screws and nuts you want.

"daryl1138" wrote in message
m...
Does anyone know of a source for large diameter 1-1/2"+ threaded
dowels. All my search has turned up so far are the Beall jigs. This
would work but I only need a foot or two and the jigs are pricey.
Harbor freight has a cheaper unit but it's only 1" and...well...it's
harbor freight. Shop-made thread box (such as in the Workbench Book)
is a bit beyond my capability as yet. I'd just as soon buy the dowel
(and nut) already made.

Thanks in advance.
Daryl

PS: If it matters this is to be used in a bench vise.

Does anyone know of a source for large diameter 1-1/2"+ threaded
dowels. All my search has turned up so far are the Beall jigs. This
would work but I only need a foot or two and the jigs are pricey.
Harbor freight has a cheaper unit but it's only 1" and...well...it's
harbor freight. Shop-made thread box (such as in the Workbench Book)
is a bit beyond my capability as yet. I'd just as soon buy the dowel
(and nut) already made.

Thanks in advance.
Daryl

Speaking of this, has anyone used the HF wood "tap & dies"? Are they any good?

Dave Hall

On 24 Jan 2004 19:46:41 -0800, (daryl1138) wrote:

Does anyone know of a source for large diameter 1-1/2"+ threaded
dowels.

Make them. If you're into the bench-vice size, it's not too much of a
chore to cut them by hand. It's easier than hand-forming threads in a
small screw.

--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

Woodcraft has the taps and thread boxes. I have the 1 1/2" set and have
used it for a adjustable stool post. The threadbox takes a little tuning
but the results are good, depending on the material.

the taps work just fine right out of the box. I did a short test bolt
and a "pine nut" that I keep on my desk at work as a conversation piece.
the concept of wooden threads seems to elude most people almost as if
there never was anything not made of metal!


BRuce

this link may not work, just do a site search on wood thread
http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/...697BA582C9E89E


daryl1138 wrote:

Does anyone know of a source for large diameter 1-1/2"+ threaded
dowels. All my search has turned up so far are the Beall jigs. This
would work but I only need a foot or two and the jigs are pricey.
Harbor freight has a cheaper unit but it's only 1" and...well...it's
harbor freight. Shop-made thread box (such as in the Workbench Book)
is a bit beyond my capability as yet. I'd just as soon buy the dowel
(and nut) already made.

Thanks in advance.
Daryl

PS: If it matters this is to be used in a bench vise.

--
---

BRuce

BRuce states:


the taps work just fine right out of the box. I did a short test bolt
and a "pine nut" that I keep on my desk at work as a conversation piece.
the concept of wooden threads seems to elude most people almost as if
there never was anything not made of metal!

Odd, considering that push broom handles were wood screw ends into wood threads
until just recently.

Charlie Self
"Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine

http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/m.../business.html

On 25 Jan 2004 16:56:16 GMT, (David Hall) brought
forth from the murky depths:

Speaking of this, has anyone used the HF wood "tap & dies"? Are they any good?

I have the 3/4" model and it's OK. The quality of your
dowel makes a whole lot of difference, though.


----------------------------------------------------------------
* Blessed are those who can * Humorous T-shirts Online
* laugh at themselves, for they * Comprehensive Website Dev.
* shall never cease to be amused * http://www.diversify.com
----------------------------------------------------------------

I have a good idea how you would cut the male thread but how would you
get the matching female thread?

Andy Dingley wrote in message . ..
On 24 Jan 2004 19:46:41 -0800, (daryl1138) wrote:

Does anyone know of a source for large diameter 1-1/2"+ threaded
dowels.

Make them. If you're into the bench-vice size, it's not too much of a
chore to cut them by hand. It's easier than hand-forming threads in a
small screw.

In article 1075060684.328746@sj-nntpcache-3,
BRuce wrote:
Woodcraft has the taps and thread boxes. I have the 1 1/2" set and have
used it for a adjustable stool post. The threadbox takes a little tuning
but the results are good, depending on the material.

the taps work just fine right out of the box. I did a short test bolt
and a "pine nut" that I keep on my desk at work as a conversation piece.
the concept of wooden threads seems to elude most people almost as if
there never was anything not made of metal!


Those who have never seen an adjustable piano stool, or a dis-assembled
push-broom (or floor-wax applicator), I guess.

On 25 Jan 2004 19:17:47 -0800, (daryl1138) wrote:

I have a good idea how you would cut the male thread but how would you
get the matching female thread?

Generally you use a metal-cutting tap. These are hard to find, but
they do sometimes show up (old tooling from steam engine fitting works
for me). You might like to grind the flutes bigger to give more chip
clearance, but they'll usually cut fairly well. A die OTOH, doesn;t
work for threading wood.

In big sizes, then find Diderot's encyclopedie (or similar ancient
reference book) and look for illustrations of how it used to be done.
The usual way is with a point cutter and a couple of pointed guide
pins, suitably arranged to form the helix. It's a painstaking process,
because you have to make sure it doesn't slip out of the guidance
groove as it first starts to cut.

Another good way (and how I've done it) is to use a metalworker's
screwcutting lathe. Clamp the wooden "nut" to the cross slide and set
up a boring bar between centres to carry the threading tool. Once you
have it set up, you can bang them out in no time.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

most of the folks where I work are either high end hi-tech or H1Bs. the
1st group probably have never seen a push broom and the second group for
whatever reason seem to be amazed at anything that I make from from wood.

i have several old broom handles out in the shed and can remember using
them since i was in high school but a lot of "younger folks" probably
have never used one.

I think the a lot of the amazement may be more from the perspective that
it could be done outside of a factory by a person they know.

BRuce

Charlie Self wrote:

BRuce states:


the taps work just fine right out of the box. I did a short test bolt
and a "pine nut" that I keep on my desk at work as a conversation piece.
the concept of wooden threads seems to elude most people almost as if
there never was anything not made of metal!


Odd, considering that push broom handles were wood screw ends into wood threads
until just recently.

Charlie Self
"Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine

http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/m.../business.html

--
---

BRuce

daryl1138 wrote:
I have a good idea how you would cut the male thread but how would you
get the matching female thread?

Woodcraft seels both the Beall system for wood threading and a less
expensive one in a variety of sizes. They come with a tap and a die.
Another use for mineral oil in the shop. G

Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 18:44:46 GMT, wrote:

Woodcraft seels both the Beall system for wood threading

Doesn't go big enough for a bench vice screw though ?

On 25 Jan 2004 19:17:47 -0800, (daryl1138) brought
forth from the murky depths:

I have a good idea how you would cut the male thread but how would you
get the matching female thread?

Make a tap. See Underhill's "Woodwright's Workshop" for pics
and detailed instructions on how to make your own parts, both
taps and dies (screwboxes).


----------------------------------------------------------------
* Blessed are those who can * Humorous T-shirts Online
* laugh at themselves, for they * Comprehensive Website Dev.
* shall never cease to be amused * http://www.diversify.com
----------------------------------------------------------------

I plan to use 2 - 1 1/2" for a tail vice, you are looking to hold the
wood not squeeze it into submission. If I can sit 200 lbs straight down
onto the one in my shop stool, it should be able to clamp a board so i
can plane it.

BRuce

Andy Dingley wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 18:44:46 GMT, wrote:


Woodcraft seels both the Beall system for wood threading


Doesn't go big enough for a bench vice screw though ?


--
---

BRuce

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 21:58:48 -0500, BRuce BRuce wrote:

I plan to use 2 - 1 1/2" for a tail vice, you are looking to hold the
wood not squeeze it into submission.

It's a question of helix angle. You need at least a certain pitch on
a vice, or else you'll be winding it in and out all day. If you cut
this onto too small a diameter, the angle of the thread is too steep
and it doesn't hold.

I confused, wouldn't the helix angle be the same regardless of the
diameter? threads per inch is threads per inch. the angle doesn't
change but the surface area changes.

Yes, I will have to run a lot of turns when changing from one operation
to another but if I am clamping a board to plane, a single turn release
or to reclamp the board is all that will be needed. most metal bench
vices have fairly high TPH and some do have quick release.

Once my bench has been finished I will post pictures and number of turns
full open to full closed.

BRuce

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 21:58:48 -0500, BRuce BRuce wrote:


I plan to use 2 - 1 1/2" for a tail vice, you are looking to hold the
wood not squeeze it into submission.


It's a question of helix angle. You need at least a certain pitch on
a vice, or else you'll be winding it in and out all day. If you cut
this onto too small a diameter, the angle of the thread is too steep
and it doesn't hold.


--
---

BRuce

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 08:06:15 -0500, BRuce BRuce wrote:

I confused, wouldn't the helix angle be the same regardless of the
diameter? threads per inch is threads per inch. the angle doesn't
change but the surface area changes.


the angle decreases as diameter increases.

think of one rotation as a triangle. height is thread pitch- it stays
the same. width is diameter- it changes, so the diagonal must change
too.





Yes, I will have to run a lot of turns when changing from one operation
to another but if I am clamping a board to plane, a single turn release
or to reclamp the board is all that will be needed. most metal bench
vices have fairly high TPH and some do have quick release.

Once my bench has been finished I will post pictures and number of turns
full open to full closed.

BRuce

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 21:58:48 -0500, BRuce BRuce wrote:


I plan to use 2 - 1 1/2" for a tail vice, you are looking to hold the
wood not squeeze it into submission.


It's a question of helix angle. You need at least a certain pitch on
a vice, or else you'll be winding it in and out all day. If you cut
this onto too small a diameter, the angle of the thread is too steep
and it doesn't hold.

Bridger wrote:

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 08:06:15 -0500, BRuce BRuce wrote:

I confused, wouldn't the helix angle be the same regardless of the
diameter? threads per inch is threads per inch. the angle doesn't
change but the surface area changes.

the angle decreases as diameter increases.

think of one rotation as a triangle. height is thread pitch- it stays
the same. width is diameter- it changes, so the diagonal must change
too.

True, the thread on a bolt or dowel is a rolled up inclined plane, one of
the basic machines.

The dimensions of the defining triangle is:
Height = distance between peaks (or grooves)
Base = circumference of cylinder (diameter * pi)
Hypotenuse = Length of one turn of the thread.

Thead angle will be arcsine(Height/Hypotenuse)
or arctan(Height/Base)

Increasing the diameter of the cylinder will make the triangle longer and
thus make the angle smaller.

When the thread angle is about 45 degrees or more the screw and nut can
and is used backwards. In other words, instead of using the screw to move
or tighten the nut, the nut is moved to cause the screw to rotate.
Linear motion is turned into rotary motion. A good example would be the
"yankee" screwdriver.

ARM