I am a new jointer owner so I haven't tried this yet. I am going to laminate
some curly maple veneer on 1/2" baltic birch plywood. When it is all done, I
need to have a very straight edge. Can I run that edge over my jointer? I
thought I would clamp another piece of wood over the veneer to make sure it
wasn't torn by the jointer knives but will I get into problems running the
plywood over the jointer? I could always experiement but this veneer is
expensive so I thought I would check with the group for some ideas before
trying it.

TIA.

Dick SNyder

On Nov 9, 7:37*am, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
I am a new jointer owner so I haven't tried this yet. I am going to laminate
some curly maple veneer on 1/2" baltic birch plywood. When it is all done, I
need to have a very straight edge. Can I run that edge over my jointer?

You can, but you'll ruin your steel knives right quick. The glue is
so hard it'll leave little ridges in the blades. Unless you have
carbide, you don't want to do it. What you can do is joint it on your
router table, by shimming the outfeed side of the fence out. The
carbide is tough enough to stand up to the glue. The ideal thing
would be to cut it straight first, then just flush trim the veneer.

JP

To cut it straight first I need to start with one straight edge which I can
put against my table saw fence which I cut the opposing edge. I'm trying to
figure out how to get that first straight edge. I have jointed boards on my
router table before buying a used jointer 2 months ago. I have HSS knives so
I will go back to my router table. Thanks for your advice.
"Jay Pique" wrote in message
...
On Nov 9, 7:37 am, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
I am a new jointer owner so I haven't tried this yet. I am going to
laminate
some curly maple veneer on 1/2" baltic birch plywood. When it is all done,
I
need to have a very straight edge. Can I run that edge over my jointer?

You can, but you'll ruin your steel knives right quick. The glue is
so hard it'll leave little ridges in the blades. Unless you have
carbide, you don't want to do it. What you can do is joint it on your
router table, by shimming the outfeed side of the fence out. The
carbide is tough enough to stand up to the glue. The ideal thing
would be to cut it straight first, then just flush trim the veneer.

JP

Dick Snyder wrote:
To cut it straight first I need to start with one straight edge
which
I can put against my table saw fence which I cut the opposing edge.

Clamp against the fence a straight board long enough that two points
on the work piece will ride on it. Cut one edge. You now have a
straight edge. Use that one against the fence to cut the other.

I'm trying to figure out how to get that first straight edge. I have
jointed boards on my router table before buying a used jointer 2
months ago. I have HSS knives so I will go back to my router table.
Thanks for your advice. "Jay Pique" wrote in
message
...
On Nov 9, 7:37 am, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
I am a new jointer owner so I haven't tried this yet. I am going to
laminate
some curly maple veneer on 1/2" baltic birch plywood. When it is
all
done, I
need to have a very straight edge. Can I run that edge over my
jointer?

You can, but you'll ruin your steel knives right quick. The glue is
so hard it'll leave little ridges in the blades. Unless you have
carbide, you don't want to do it. What you can do is joint it on
your
router table, by shimming the outfeed side of the fence out. The
carbide is tough enough to stand up to the glue. The ideal thing
would be to cut it straight first, then just flush trim the veneer.

JP

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Sun, 9 Nov 2008 13:21:56 +0000, J. Clarke wrote
(in article ):

Clamp against the fence a straight board long enough that two points
on the work piece will ride on it. Cut one edge. You now have a
straight edge. Use that one against the fence to cut the other.

How do I get the first long board straight... ?

Do I need an even longer board?

How do I get THAT straight... ?

:-)

Bored Borg wrote:
On Sun, 9 Nov 2008 13:21:56 +0000, J. Clarke wrote
(in article ):

Clamp against the fence a straight board long enough that two
points
on the work piece will ride on it. Cut one edge. You now have a
straight edge. Use that one against the fence to cut the other.

How do I get the first long board straight... ?

Do I need an even longer board?

How do I get THAT straight... ?

Since it's not plywood you do it on the jointer.


--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Bored Borg wrote:

How do I get the first long board straight... ?

Do I need an even longer board?

How do I get THAT straight... ?

I have an 8' and a 20' length of _straight_ alumin(i)um angle in my shop
to solve exactly that problem. :-)

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
To cut it straight first I need to start with one straight edge which I
can put against my table saw fence which I cut the opposing edge. I'm
trying to figure out how to get that first straight edge. I have jointed
boards on my router table before buying a used jointer 2 months ago. I
have HSS knives so I will go back to my router table. Thanks for your
advice.

Hard to say specifically without knowing how long your plywood is... If it's
relatively short compared to your fence, cutting one side and then cutting
the opposite side is usually sufficient. If it's relatively long, a long
straight edge clamped to your fence will let you cut one edge, then cut the
opposite edge. You may want to plan on cutting the first edge again if you
didn't cut the pieces to rough size initially. A steel stud would suffice
for a straight edge for the initial cut.

I'd avoid jointing the edge of plywood. I have face planed ACX and BCX for
use in making shop cabinets to get uniform thickness with success but edges
are tough on the knives and tend to blow up.

John

OK - I can see how this would work for me. The plywood I have is 31" x 24".
I have a 48" long level which I can clamp along the fence. Then I can run
the plywood against it.

Thanks.

Dick


"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Dick Snyder wrote:
To cut it straight first I need to start with one straight edge
which
I can put against my table saw fence which I cut the opposing edge.

Clamp against the fence a straight board long enough that two points
on the work piece will ride on it. Cut one edge. You now have a
straight edge. Use that one against the fence to cut the other.

I'm trying to figure out how to get that first straight edge. I have
jointed boards on my router table before buying a used jointer 2
months ago. I have HSS knives so I will go back to my router table.
Thanks for your advice. "Jay Pique" wrote in
message
...
On Nov 9, 7:37 am, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
I am a new jointer owner so I haven't tried this yet. I am going to
laminate
some curly maple veneer on 1/2" baltic birch plywood. When it is
all
done, I
need to have a very straight edge. Can I run that edge over my
jointer?

You can, but you'll ruin your steel knives right quick. The glue is
so hard it'll leave little ridges in the blades. Unless you have
carbide, you don't want to do it. What you can do is joint it on
your
router table, by shimming the outfeed side of the fence out. The
carbide is tough enough to stand up to the glue. The ideal thing
would be to cut it straight first, then just flush trim the veneer.

JP

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Nov 9, 9:51*am, Morris Dovey wrote:
Bored Borg wrote:
How do I get the first long board straight... ?

Do I need an even longer board?

How do I get THAT straight... *?

I have an 8' and a 20' length of _straight_ alumin(i)um angle in my shop
to solve exactly that problem. :-)

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Oh yeah? Are yours ± 0.002 over 12 feet? Huh? Huh? G

http://www.pinske-edge.com/catalog/c...Straight_Edges

Robatoy wrote:
On Nov 9, 9:51 am, Morris Dovey wrote:
Bored Borg wrote:

How do I get the first long board straight... ? Do I need an even
longer board? How do I get THAT straight... ?

I have an 8' and a 20' length of _straight_ alumin(i)um angle in my
shop to solve exactly that problem. :-)

Oh yeah? Are yours ± 0.002 over 12 feet? Huh? Huh? G

The twenty-footer is "pretty danged straight", so - since you haven't
said ±0.002 of /what/ units, I'll assume AU - I'll say: "Yeah, sure!"
Pretty good, eh?

The eight-footer (being only 8 feet long) isn't /anything/ over 12 feet. :-)

Best of all, the cost was under $1/foot.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

On Nov 9, 10:09*pm, Morris Dovey wrote:
Robatoy wrote:
On Nov 9, 9:51 am, Morris Dovey wrote:
Bored Borg wrote:
How do I get the first long board straight... ? Do I need an even
longer board? How do I get THAT straight... *?
I have an 8' and a 20' length of _straight_ alumin(i)um angle in my
shop to solve exactly that problem. :-)
Oh yeah? Are yours ± 0.002 over 12 feet? Huh? Huh? *G

The twenty-footer is "pretty danged straight", so - since you haven't
said ±0.002 of /what/ units, I'll assume AU - I'll say: "Yeah, sure!"
Pretty good, eh?

The eight-footer (being only 8 feet long) isn't /anything/ over 12 feet. :-)

Best of all, the cost was under $1/foot.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

I have a 6" wide x 1/4" x 144" for which I paid $ 80.00. I am pretty
happy with that. It is wide enough that I can use a router on top with
a trimmed bushing. It is straight enough for all practical purposes if
I don't lean into it too much.

On Sun, 09 Nov 2008 08:51:09 -0600, Morris Dovey
wrote:

Bored Borg wrote:

How do I get the first long board straight... ?

Do I need an even longer board?

How do I get THAT straight... ?

I have an 8' and a 20' length of _straight_ alumin(i)um angle in my shop
to solve exactly that problem. :-)

....this is one of those techniques that may be frowned upon, but I use
an old, straight, level that I've decommissioned from the bubble jobs,
I eyeball the crown of whatever I'm trying to straighten/joint (a good
example is S2S hardwood I buy 'cause it's cheaper), put the concave
side against the straightedge and *that* against the fence (that is
set to maxamize the width of the board), using a deadman that is the
same height as my table to hold everything steady...whew... I then run
the package through the saw. This method took me a few trys, mainly
getting my feet to move properly and at the same time holding the
level against the fence, resulting in making the cut in pretty much
one, smooth motion. Naturally, after the initial pass, I flip the
board and cut the concave side flat. It works for me and I usually
dont do lengths over 10', but it may not be everyone's cup of
gasoline...

cg

On Mon, 10 Nov 2008 01:42:43 GMT, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

OK - I can see how this would work for me. The plywood I have is 31" x 24".
I have a 48" long level which I can clamp along the fence. Then I can run
the plywood against it.

Thanks.

Dick

....you'll need a smidge more straightedge to cover the outfeed even if
your cutting the short side...

cg


"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Dick Snyder wrote:
To cut it straight first I need to start with one straight edge
which
I can put against my table saw fence which I cut the opposing edge.

Clamp against the fence a straight board long enough that two points
on the work piece will ride on it. Cut one edge. You now have a
straight edge. Use that one against the fence to cut the other.

I'm trying to figure out how to get that first straight edge. I have
jointed boards on my router table before buying a used jointer 2
months ago. I have HSS knives so I will go back to my router table.
Thanks for your advice. "Jay Pique" wrote in
message
...
On Nov 9, 7:37 am, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
I am a new jointer owner so I haven't tried this yet. I am going to
laminate
some curly maple veneer on 1/2" baltic birch plywood. When it is
all
done, I
need to have a very straight edge. Can I run that edge over my
jointer?

You can, but you'll ruin your steel knives right quick. The glue is
so hard it'll leave little ridges in the blades. Unless you have
carbide, you don't want to do it. What you can do is joint it on
your
router table, by shimming the outfeed side of the fence out. The
carbide is tough enough to stand up to the glue. The ideal thing
would be to cut it straight first, then just flush trim the veneer.

JP

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

My own technique is a "sandwich" that I use on the tablesaw. I've got 2 - 5
foot long by 1 foot wide pieces of mdf. Milled straight on my table saw. I
drill 1/2" dowels through one and half way through the other to index them
into a sandwich. The dowels protude about an inch above the top piece. When
I need a straight edge on a newly veneered panel, I just put the panel
between the 2 mdf pieces and make a sandwich. The panel sticks out one side
and the mdf provides the straight edge to run against the saw fence. Just
get the panel square inside the sandwich (easy to do) and you've got what
you need.
The other use for the sandwich is also for veneering. When I'm doing
bookmatches of veneers and need to joint the edges, I put the packet of
veneers in the sandwich, clamp it really tight and flat, then run a laminate
trimmer along the edge and take off an 1/8" or so to get perfect edges.

Gary in KC




"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I am a new jointer owner so I haven't tried this yet. I am going to
laminate
some curly maple veneer on 1/2" baltic birch plywood. When it is all done,
I
need to have a very straight edge. Can I run that edge over my jointer? I
thought I would clamp another piece of wood over the veneer to make sure
it
wasn't torn by the jointer knives but will I get into problems running the
plywood over the jointer? I could always experiement but this veneer is
expensive so I thought I would check with the group for some ideas before
trying it.

TIA.

Dick SNyder

I make a sled out of a piece of flat stock. The stock is 3/4 pine
(yes, it's straight!), 48 x 8. I countersunk 2 holes in it for
aluminum hold-downs, and use them to control the piece to be jointed.
I use the hold-downs as handles.

make sure the piece is just ver the edge of the sled.


shelly

wrote:
The stock is 3/4 pine
(yes, it's straight!),

Today. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

2-way tape a long steel scale or other known straight edge to one side
and run this against the saw fence. Then saw the other side off. Now
flip it over, remove the straight edge & tape, and saw it to size.