OK - I can see how this would work for me. The plywood I have is 31" x 24".
I have a 48" long level which I can clamp along the fence. Then I can run
the plywood against it.

Thanks.

Dick


"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Dick Snyder wrote:
To cut it straight first I need to start with one straight edge
which
I can put against my table saw fence which I cut the opposing edge.

Clamp against the fence a straight board long enough that two points
on the work piece will ride on it. Cut one edge. You now have a
straight edge. Use that one against the fence to cut the other.

I'm trying to figure out how to get that first straight edge. I have
jointed boards on my router table before buying a used jointer 2
months ago. I have HSS knives so I will go back to my router table.
Thanks for your advice. "Jay Pique" wrote in
message
...
On Nov 9, 7:37 am, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
I am a new jointer owner so I haven't tried this yet. I am going to
laminate
some curly maple veneer on 1/2" baltic birch plywood. When it is
all
done, I
need to have a very straight edge. Can I run that edge over my
jointer?

You can, but you'll ruin your steel knives right quick. The glue is
so hard it'll leave little ridges in the blades. Unless you have
carbide, you don't want to do it. What you can do is joint it on
your
router table, by shimming the outfeed side of the fence out. The
carbide is tough enough to stand up to the glue. The ideal thing
would be to cut it straight first, then just flush trim the veneer.

JP

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