Any tips on how to get the belt over that pulley! You know what I mean,
that replacement belt that is exactly the minimum size necessary to fit over
the pulleys without bending the motor axle. For now my jointer is sitting
idle in the shop, dripping blood and sweat as I break my body against it
trying to get that belt over the pulley lip.

I was thinking of using a thin crowbar to leverage the belt over the top of
the pulley, but it's putting far too much pressure on the cutter axle.

Ah well, really I didn't expect a slew of responses, more just venting
aggrevation at the moron who sized the belt for my jointer.

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
...
Any tips on how to get the belt over that pulley! You know what I mean,


Doesn't the motor attach to the jointer in slotted holes, or attach to a
plate with slotted holes, such that you can loosen some bolts and the motor
pivots allowing you to adjust the belt tension?

John

Eigenvector wrote:
Any tips on how to get the belt over that pulley! You know what I mean,
that replacement belt that is exactly the minimum size necessary to fit
over the pulleys without bending the motor axle. For now my jointer is
sitting idle in the shop, dripping blood and sweat as I break my body
against it trying to get that belt over the pulley lip.

I was thinking of using a thin crowbar to leverage the belt over the top
of the pulley, but it's putting far too much pressure on the cutter axle.

Ah well, really I didn't expect a slew of responses, more just venting
aggrevation at the moron who sized the belt for my jointer.

I understand your frustration - and suggest that it'd be a good idea to
ensure that your /next/ jointer have some means of adjusting belt
tension. (It makes this job a lot easier)

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

There HAS to be a method for adjusting tension since no two belts are
exactly the same length nor do they remain exactly the same length as
they age. Locate that mechanism and use it. You;d need to adjust the
tension anyway since you are replacing the belt.

Pete Stanaitis
-----------------------

Eigenvector wrote:
Any tips on how to get the belt over that pulley! You know what I mean,
that replacement belt that is exactly the minimum size necessary to fit
over the pulleys without bending the motor axle. For now my jointer is
sitting idle in the shop, dripping blood and sweat as I break my body
against it trying to get that belt over the pulley lip.

I was thinking of using a thin crowbar to leverage the belt over the top
of the pulley, but it's putting far too much pressure on the cutter axle.

Ah well, really I didn't expect a slew of responses, more just venting
aggrevation at the moron who sized the belt for my jointer.

On Aug 1, 4:42*pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
Any tips on how to get the belt over that pulley! *You know what I mean,
that replacement belt that is exactly the minimum size necessary to fit over
the pulleys without bending the motor axle. *For now my jointer is sitting
idle in the shop, dripping blood and sweat as I break my body against it
trying to get that belt over the pulley lip.

I was thinking of using a thin crowbar to leverage the belt over the top of
the pulley, but it's putting far too much pressure on the cutter axle.

Ah well, really I didn't expect a slew of responses, more just venting
aggrevation at the moron who sized the belt for my jointer.

Another thing to try is maybe the pulley is attached to the motor
shaft with a set screw. Unscrew the set screw, pull the pulley off
the shaft and put the belt on, and try (firmly but gently) to put the
pulley (now with the belt on it) over the motor shaft.

Al
who isn't so good at stuff

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
...
Any tips on how to get the belt over that pulley! You know what I mean,
that replacement belt that is exactly the minimum size necessary to fit
over the pulleys without bending the motor axle. For now my jointer is
sitting idle in the shop, dripping blood and sweat as I break my body
against it trying to get that belt over the pulley lip.

I was thinking of using a thin crowbar to leverage the belt over the top
of the pulley, but it's putting far too much pressure on the cutter axle.

Ah well, really I didn't expect a slew of responses, more just venting
aggrevation at the moron who sized the belt for my jointer.

I appreciate the moral support. I did figure it out. No the motor mounts
wouldn't adjust any further - otherwise this would have been simple.

The only way I could do it was unbolt the bed and tip it sideways to lower
the pulley - then I just used that big cast iron mass to leverage it back
into place. Like I said, the belt is the absolute minimum size necessary to
work. I'll never get a belt from them again. That said, the jointer is
purring like a kitten now, all fresh and clean.

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
Eigenvector wrote:
Any tips on how to get the belt over that pulley! You know what I mean,
that replacement belt that is exactly the minimum size necessary to fit
over the pulleys without bending the motor axle. For now my jointer is
sitting idle in the shop, dripping blood and sweat as I break my body
against it trying to get that belt over the pulley lip.

I was thinking of using a thin crowbar to leverage the belt over the top
of the pulley, but it's putting far too much pressure on the cutter axle.

Ah well, really I didn't expect a slew of responses, more just venting
aggrevation at the moron who sized the belt for my jointer.

I understand your frustration - and suggest that it'd be a good idea to
ensure that your /next/ jointer have some means of adjusting belt tension.
(It makes this job a lot easier)

--
Morris Dovey


Well that goes without saying. My jointer is a real basic model, I rarely
use it so at the time I couldn't justify spending more than about 600 bucks.
If I had my druthers I'd have gotten a Powermatic, but it would have been
wasted on me. But belt tension is something that doesn't happen all that
often, funny thing is, I've seen this on more than one tool before. I think
the manufacturers go cheap thinking the belt won't ever wear out anyway.

Eigenvector wrote:
Any tips on how to get the belt over that pulley! You know what I mean,
that replacement belt that is exactly the minimum size necessary to fit
over the pulleys without bending the motor axle. For now my jointer is
sitting idle in the shop, dripping blood and sweat as I break my body
against it trying to get that belt over the pulley lip.

I was thinking of using a thin crowbar to leverage the belt over the top
of the pulley, but it's putting far too much pressure on the cutter axle.

Ah well, really I didn't expect a slew of responses, more just venting
aggrevation at the moron who sized the belt for my jointer.
Most motors have adjustment slots in the base that can be used to takeup
the slack in drive belts. If you don't have these slots then just loosen
the motor enough to slip the belt over the pully. Be carefull not to
drop the motor on your toe.

Dave Nagel

In article , "Eigenvector" wrote:


The only way I could do it was unbolt the bed and tip it sideways to lower
the pulley - then I just used that big cast iron mass to leverage it back
into place. Like I said, the belt is the absolute minimum size necessary to
work. I'll never get a belt from them again. That said, the jointer is
purring like a kitten now, all fresh and clean.

If there truly is no mechanism for adjusting the belt tension -- and I bet
there is; check the manual -- then next time, get a link belt.

Eigenvector wrote:

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...

I understand your frustration - and suggest that it'd be a good idea
to ensure that your /next/ jointer have some means of adjusting belt
tension. (It makes this job a lot easier)

Well that goes without saying. My jointer is a real basic model, I
rarely use it so at the time I couldn't justify spending more than about
600 bucks. If I had my druthers I'd have gotten a Powermatic, but it
would have been wasted on me. But belt tension is something that
doesn't happen all that often, funny thing is, I've seen this on more
than one tool before. I think the manufacturers go cheap thinking the
belt won't ever wear out anyway.

I'm not very knowledgeable about this kind of stuff, but would it work
to use a longer belt and cobble together an adjustable idler pulley?

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
. ..

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...



Well that goes without saying. My jointer is a real basic model, I rarely
use it so at the time I couldn't justify spending more than about 600
bucks. If I had my druthers I'd have gotten a Powermatic, but it would
have been wasted on me. But belt tension is something that doesn't happen
all that often, funny thing is, I've seen this on more than one tool
before. I think the manufacturers go cheap thinking the belt won't ever
wear out anyway.

Unbolt the motor, slip on the belt and reattach the motor. OR, remove the
pulley slip the belt on and then reinstall the pulley. If you "make the
belt fit" by forcing it with this tight of an install you will probably
damage the belt, it won't show up right away, but life expectancy will be
shortened considerably.

"spaco" wrote in message
.. .
There HAS to be a method for adjusting tension since no two belts are
exactly the same length nor do they remain exactly the same length as they
age. Locate that mechanism and use it. You;d need to adjust the
tension anyway since you are replacing the belt.


Yeah that is not right. A lot of equipment had matched sets of belts.
Cabinet saws typically use 3 belts exactly the same length.

Leon wrote:
"spaco" wrote in message
.. .
There HAS to be a method for adjusting tension since no two belts are
exactly the same length nor do they remain exactly the same length as they
age. Locate that mechanism and use it. You;d need to adjust the
tension anyway since you are replacing the belt.


Yeah that is not right. A lot of equipment had matched sets of belts.
Cabinet saws typically use 3 belts exactly the same length.


Leon;

Yes, matched belts do exist but they are expensive compared to
individual belts.

Dave N

On Fri, 1 Aug 2008 13:42:23 -0700, "Eigenvector"
wrote:

Any tips on how to get the belt over that pulley! You know what I mean,
that replacement belt that is exactly the minimum size necessary to fit over
the pulleys without bending the motor axle. For now my jointer is sitting
idle in the shop, dripping blood and sweat as I break my body against it
trying to get that belt over the pulley lip.

I was thinking of using a thin crowbar to leverage the belt over the top of
the pulley, but it's putting far too much pressure on the cutter axle.

Ah well, really I didn't expect a slew of responses, more just venting
aggrevation at the moron who sized the belt for my jointer.


There should be slotted motor mounts you can release. If you have one
(or borrow one from a car mechanic) use a cricket gauge to adjust the
tension per manufacture recommendation.

"David G. Nagel" wrote in message
...

Leon;

Yes, matched belts do exist but they are expensive compared to individual
belts.

Dave N


It does make sense that 3 belts or 2 belts would be more expensive than 1
belt. But yes, those belts are typically a higher quality also, automotive
quality as opposed to industrial.

On Fri, 1 Aug 2008 13:42:23 -0700, "Eigenvector" wrote:

Any tips on how to get the belt over that pulley! You know what I mean,
that replacement belt that is exactly the minimum size necessary to fit over
the pulleys without bending the motor axle. For now my jointer is sitting
idle in the shop, dripping blood and sweat as I break my body against it
trying to get that belt over the pulley lip.

I was thinking of using a thin crowbar to leverage the belt over the top of
the pulley, but it's putting far too much pressure on the cutter axle.

Ah well, really I didn't expect a slew of responses, more just venting
aggrevation at the moron who sized the belt for my jointer.

two words:

link
belt



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Fri, 01 Aug 2008 23:33:40 -0500, "David G. Nagel"
wrote:

Leon wrote:
"spaco" wrote in message
.. .
There HAS to be a method for adjusting tension since no two belts are
exactly the same length nor do they remain exactly the same length as they
age. Locate that mechanism and use it. You;d need to adjust the
tension anyway since you are replacing the belt.


Yeah that is not right. A lot of equipment had matched sets of belts.
Cabinet saws typically use 3 belts exactly the same length.


Leon;

Yes, matched belts do exist but they are expensive compared to
individual belts.

Dave N


What do you mean by "matched sets". Just belts that are made to the
same high quality specifications. Most machinery manufacturers who
offer quality products offer the same belt whether it is one or three.

A better design would be a single flat serpentine that would give you
another 3/8" depth of cut. (prototype happily working away for about
ten years in Planterviles MS.)

Frank

"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 01 Aug 2008 23:33:40 -0500, "David G. Nagel"
wrote:

What do you mean by "matched sets". Just belts that are made to the
same high quality specifications. Most machinery manufacturers who
offer quality products offer the same belt whether it is one or three.

Back in my old automotive days GM sold "matched sets" of belts because some
of the Frigidare AC compressors used 2 belts side by side. They had to be
exactly the same length so thay they could be tightened evenly. I was once
told that the belts were all cut from a wider molded belt. Matched sets
were those that were cut next to each other rather than cut and mixed with
others from the larger belt. Sorta like keeping veneer slices stacked
correctly. Apparently the large belt that all the smaller belts were cut
from was a bit smaller in diameter on one end than the other end.



A better design would be a single flat serpentine that would give you
another 3/8" depth of cut. (prototype happily working away for about
ten years in Planterviles MS.)


Totally agreed, the automotive industry has been using this type belt since
the early 80's. They offer much more contact area with out the heat build
up and can be bent so that the back side of the belt can drive a pulley.
They are better balanced and typically do not hold a shape when stopped for
periods of time. Actually a regular automotive belt works as a good
replacement for the industrial belts that come with power tools. They can
with stand much higher speeds, loads, and are better balanced.

Leon wrote:
"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 01 Aug 2008 23:33:40 -0500, "David G. Nagel"
wrote:

What do you mean by "matched sets".

More than that -- particularly length precisely matched within
tolerances tighter than normal manufacturing.

....

... Most machinery manufacturers who
offer quality products offer the same belt whether it is one or three.

Only (relatively) recently -- in the 60s or so one selected multi-sheave
drive belts by a complex set of numbers if the equipment vendor didn't
provide that as part of the service.

Back in my old automotive days GM sold "matched sets" of belts because some
of the Frigidare AC compressors used 2 belts side by side. They had to be
exactly the same length so thay they could be tightened evenly. I was once
told that the belts were all cut from a wider molded belt. Matched sets
were those that were cut next to each other rather than cut and mixed with
others from the larger belt. Sorta like keeping veneer slices stacked
correctly. Apparently the large belt that all the smaller belts were cut
from was a bit smaller in diameter on one end than the other end.
....

Not quite--they were simply selected to be within tolerances and coded.

See

http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?br...ocation_id=559
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?br...ocation_id=559

for discussion from Gates perspective.

--

"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
...



What do you mean by "matched sets". Just belts that are made to the
same high quality specifications. Most machinery manufacturers who
offer quality products offer the same belt whether it is one or three.

A better design would be a single flat serpentine that would give you
another 3/8" depth of cut. (prototype happily working away for about
ten years in Planterviles MS.)

Frank

Frank I was told by a Browning belt rep that matched belts come from the
same run in production. He stated that when you reset the machinery for the
same belt later it was near impossible to get the same length. He said all
belts for a run had the same match mark.
The place I worked had up to 220hp electrical motors running 10 belts which
had to be matched or you would destroy the fabric in the shorter belts
before the others were tight.
We had one fan that had 2 200hp motors. I found I could get both motors to
pull close to the same amp load by tweaking the belt adjustment.

Virgle

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
...

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
...
Any tips on how to get the belt over that pulley! You know what I mean,
that replacement belt that is exactly the minimum size necessary to fit
over the pulleys without bending the motor axle. For now my jointer is
sitting idle in the shop, dripping blood and sweat as I break my body
against it trying to get that belt over the pulley lip.

I was thinking of using a thin crowbar to leverage the belt over the top
of the pulley, but it's putting far too much pressure on the cutter axle.

Ah well, really I didn't expect a slew of responses, more just venting
aggrevation at the moron who sized the belt for my jointer.

I appreciate the moral support. I did figure it out. No the motor mounts
wouldn't adjust any further - otherwise this would have been simple.

The only way I could do it was unbolt the bed and tip it sideways to lower
the pulley - then I just used that big cast iron mass to leverage it back
into place. Like I said, the belt is the absolute minimum size necessary
to work. I'll never get a belt from them again. That said, the jointer
is purring like a kitten now, all fresh and clean.
As discussed in postings above, belts like all manufacturing are not
precision but will have + or - tolerances in their actual lengths. It sounds
like you have one that is at the end of the - tolerance, or stated another
way, the smallest allowed by the tolerance. If it is that difficult to slip
on you may find if you do get it on that it is way too tight to operate
properly putting too much stress on the shaft or the motor. You may have to
remove the motor and file some slots in either the mount or the motor base
to allow some adjustment
before you can get it assembled without damage to the tool or the belt. Even
if you go for a link-belt you will need some adjustment to compensate for
the segment lengths as you can only adjust the belt by one segment at a
time.