The Good Bohemian wrote:

At the base of
the cabinet (let's use a vanity as an example), there's a 4" kickplate
that holds the cabinet off the floor and provides support and moisture
protection (I presume). Are there supposed to be cross braces in this
kick plate construction? In other words, is it sufficient to hold the
cabinet assy. on top of 4 4" boards on the perimeter and one sheet
over top without having crossers underneath? I don't know if I am
being clear or not but try to envision the base of a cabinet where the
kickplate is... Is there anything behind the kickplate holding the
cabinet up or is it just held on with the simple frame and a sheet
over top?

My kitchen cabinets (assuming I ever get around to making 'em g) will use
legs like the "Cabinet Legs 45010-90" on this page:
http://www.cabinetmaking.com/hardware.html
The adjustable legs make leveling the cabinets much easier than the
traditional 2x4 & shims method.

Based on someone's good idea sometime back, they will also have drawers for
cookie sheets and the like between the adjustable legs.

-- Mark

Kick plates can be an integral part of the base cabinet itself; they can be
a platform (usually 2 x 4's on edge) the cabinet (without built-in kick
plate) sits on; or alternately, you can use adjustable legs and just apply a
kick panel to the front.

Of those methods, I almost always build the kick plates into each individual
cabinet.

You do this by making the cabinet SIDES the exact height of your desired
base cabinet (36", less the countertop and underlay, so usually 34 1/2"),
then notch out for the kick plate panel in the front of each cabinet side.

I generally make this notch 4 1/2" high and 4" deep (including the face
frame).

The floor of the cabinet sits right above the horizontal part of the notch
and runs from the front of the cabinet, all the way to back.

The kick plate panel is attached to the vertical part of the notches in the
two sides, directly under the floor.

The back panel of the cabinet runs all the way to the floor for extra
support.

I also "cleat" (Quarter round of the appropriate size, about 6" long works
well) the floor, on the underside, to the sides, back and kick plate panel.

IME, this last step strengthens your base considerably for those granite
countertops.

As you can tell from the above, I probably overbuild by today's standards.
However, I guarantee you that I'll never have to clean up the mess after one
of my cabinets fail.

As I learned with computers, taking the money for a job is the easy part ...
providing tech support when something breaks is what kills you.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/21/03


"The Good Bohemian" wrote in message


I was wondering if some of you more seasoned cabinet makers might
answer a few burning questions?? I am in the midst of getting some
really good books (among them would be 'Cabinetmaking and Millwork,
Feirer'). Before I get the reference material in, I was wondering if
someone could set me straight on carcase construction with either 3/4
particle board or cabinet quality ply or mdf, etc... At the base of
the cabinet (let's use a vanity as an example), there's a 4" kickplate
that holds the cabinet off the floor and provides support and moisture
protection (I presume). Are there supposed to be cross braces in this
kick plate construction? In other words, is it sufficient to hold the
cabinet assy. on top of 4 4" boards on the perimeter and one sheet over
top without having crossers underneath? I don't know if I am being
clear or not but try to envision the base of a cabinet where the
kickplate is... Is there anything behind the kickplate holding the
cabinet up or is it just held on with the simple frame and a sheet over
top?

I have been endlessly scowering the net for good detailed info on
carcase construction but it seems tricky to come by. I will start with
Feirer's book and go from there but in the meantime, if any of you
could suggest other texts, videos, etc. I would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,


Andrew.
(St. Catahrines)

If I understand what you are asking. No, cross members aren't required to
hold the case but they will go a long way towards keeping that bottom shelf
from sagging from either weight or age.

Out of the half dozen books I have on cabinet making the one I find most
useful is "Cabinetmaking Procedures for the small shop" Kevin Fristad and
John Ward.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"The Good Bohemian" wrote in message
...


I was wondering if some of you more seasoned cabinet makers might
answer a few burning questions?? I am in the midst of getting some
really good books (among them would be 'Cabinetmaking and Millwork,
Feirer'). Before I get the reference material in, I was wondering if
someone could set me straight on carcase construction with either 3/4
particle board or cabinet quality ply or mdf, etc... At the base of
the cabinet (let's use a vanity as an example), there's a 4" kickplate
that holds the cabinet off the floor and provides support and moisture
protection (I presume). Are there supposed to be cross braces in this
kick plate construction? In other words, is it sufficient to hold the
cabinet assy. on top of 4 4" boards on the perimeter and one sheet over
top without having crossers underneath? I don't know if I am being
clear or not but try to envision the base of a cabinet where the
kickplate is... Is there anything behind the kickplate holding the
cabinet up or is it just held on with the simple frame and a sheet over
top?

I have been endlessly scowering the net for good detailed info on
carcase construction but it seems tricky to come by. I will start with
Feirer's book and go from there but in the meantime, if any of you
could suggest other texts, videos, etc. I would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,


Andrew.
(St. Catahrines)

Hows about worrying about fixing your damn clock instead of building
cabinets.







"The Good Bohemian" wrote in message
...


I was wondering if some of you more seasoned cabinet makers might
answer a few burning questions?? I am in the midst of getting some
really good books (among them would be 'Cabinetmaking and Millwork,
Feirer'). Before I get the reference material in, I was wondering if
someone could set me straight on carcase construction with either 3/4
particle board or cabinet quality ply or mdf, etc... At the base of
the cabinet (let's use a vanity as an example), there's a 4" kickplate
that holds the cabinet off the floor and provides support and moisture
protection (I presume). Are there supposed to be cross braces in this
kick plate construction? In other words, is it sufficient to hold the
cabinet assy. on top of 4 4" boards on the perimeter and one sheet over
top without having crossers underneath? I don't know if I am being
clear or not but try to envision the base of a cabinet where the
kickplate is... Is there anything behind the kickplate holding the
cabinet up or is it just held on with the simple frame and a sheet over
top?

I have been endlessly scowering the net for good detailed info on
carcase construction but it seems tricky to come by. I will start with
Feirer's book and go from there but in the meantime, if any of you
could suggest other texts, videos, etc. I would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,


Andrew.
(St. Catahrines)

"js" wrote in message
...
Hows about worrying about fixing your damn clock instead of building
cabinets.

Having a Midol moment or what?



"The Good Bohemian" wrote in message
...


I was wondering if some of you more seasoned cabinet makers might
answer a few burning questions?? I am in the midst of getting some

Usually, the sides are all one piece (in lieu of a separate base). The
bottom is dadoed into the sides and sits over the 4" front piece. No
need for extra bracing as the perceived load is not going to be greater
than what the bottom can carry. If you're going to be storing lead
ingots, you might want to brace accordingly...

clock fixed.

Yeah it looks like your sorry. setting it ahead another day.


*plonk*
"The Good Bohemian" wrote in message
...
In article , js
wrote:

Hows about worrying about fixing your damn clock instead of building
cabinets.


Thanks for the inspiring assistance. Sometimes it seems that we should
be able to go back to bed and then get up on the right side before we
face the world. Sorry to plague the ng with my clock. My bad.




Andrew.

I was wondering if some of you more seasoned cabinet makers might
answer a few burning questions?? I am in the midst of getting some
really good books (among them would be 'Cabinetmaking and Millwork,
Feirer'). Before I get the reference material in, I was wondering if
someone could set me straight on carcase construction with either 3/4
particle board or cabinet quality ply or mdf, etc... At the base of
the cabinet (let's use a vanity as an example), there's a 4" kickplate
that holds the cabinet off the floor and provides support and moisture
protection (I presume). Are there supposed to be cross braces in this
kick plate construction? In other words, is it sufficient to hold the
cabinet assy. on top of 4 4" boards on the perimeter and one sheet over
top without having crossers underneath? I don't know if I am being
clear or not but try to envision the base of a cabinet where the
kickplate is... Is there anything behind the kickplate holding the
cabinet up or is it just held on with the simple frame and a sheet over
top?

I have been endlessly scowering the net for good detailed info on
carcase construction but it seems tricky to come by. I will start with
Feirer's book and go from there but in the meantime, if any of you
could suggest other texts, videos, etc. I would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,


Andrew.
(St. Catahrines)

In article .com,
Swingman wrote:

Kick plates can be an integral part of the base cabinet itself; they can be
a platform (usually 2 x 4's on edge) the cabinet (without built-in kick
plate) sits on; or alternately, you can use adjustable legs and just apply a
kick panel to the front.

Of those methods, I almost always build the kick plates into each individual
cabinet.

You do this by making the cabinet SIDES the exact height of your desired
base cabinet (36", less the countertop and underlay, so usually 34 1/2"),
then notch out for the kick plate panel in the front of each cabinet side.


Thanks for the clarification. Picture someone sitting here scratching
their head feeling fifty shades of stupid saying, 'aaahhhhhhhhhh'.



Thanks again,
Andrew.

In article , js
wrote:

Hows about worrying about fixing your damn clock instead of building
cabinets.


Thanks for the inspiring assistance. Sometimes it seems that we should
be able to go back to bed and then get up on the right side before we
face the world. Sorry to plague the ng with my clock. My bad.




Andrew.