I made a gothic bench from douglas fir and stained it. Assembly will
be made with wedged through tenons and tusked through tenons. I want to use
it outside on our deck and realize from other projects that polyurethane
doesn't quite hold up like I would want it to.
Would shellac give a lasting protection on stained fir? I was thinking
of a good quality car wax. At least that would not peel and I could apply
as needed.
Or, has anyone used something on the order of Thompson's waterseal on
outdoor furniture??

Barry

On Nov 9, 7:27 am, "Barry Kwasny" wrote:
I made a gothic bench from douglas fir and stained it. Assembly will
be made with wedged through tenons and tusked through tenons. I want to use
it outside on our deck and realize from other projects that polyurethane
doesn't quite hold up like I would want it to.
Would shellac give a lasting protection on stained fir? I was thinking
of a good quality car wax. At least that would not peel and I could apply
as needed.
Or, has anyone used something on the order of Thompson's waterseal on
outdoor furniture??

Barry

I don't know of any film-forming finish that stands up to sunlight.
The failure mode is peeling and flaking that allows the wood
underneath to weather in patches. Not a pretty sight. I'd use a
penetrating oil finish like Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) or Tung Oil.
You'll have to reapply occasionally depending on exposure, but it
shouldn't require much surface prep. Beware that many finishes that
claim to be Tung Oil, like Formby's or Minwax, are really varnishes
with a little Tung Oil added to emphasize the grain. These will fail
outdoors just like varnish.

DonkeyHody
"In theory, threory and practice are the same, but in practice they
are not."

"Barry Kwasny" wrote in message
...
I made a gothic bench from douglas fir and stained it. Assembly will
be made with wedged through tenons and tusked through tenons. I want to
use it outside on our deck and realize from other projects that
polyurethane doesn't quite hold up like I would want it to.
Would shellac give a lasting protection on stained fir? I was thinking
of a good quality car wax. At least that would not peel and I could apply
as needed.
Or, has anyone used something on the order of Thompson's waterseal on
outdoor furniture??

I've had both good and bad results with poly so I'd not use it in most
cases, especially direct sun.

Best results I've had is with Penofin Oil. UV protection, no film, quick
and easy to apply.

Barry Kwasny wrote:
I made a gothic bench from douglas fir and stained it.
Assembly will be made with wedged through tenons and tusked through
tenons. I want to use it outside on our deck and realize from
other projects that polyurethane doesn't quite hold up like I would
want it to. Would shellac give a lasting protection on stained
fir? I was thinking
of a good quality car wax. At least that would not peel and I
could apply as needed.
Or, has anyone used something on the order of Thompson's
waterseal on outdoor furniture??

There is nothing - NOTHING - you can put on it that won't require
maintenance. Worst are film finishes (varnish, poly or alkyd;
lacquer; shellac); easiest to renew are oils. Wax? Dunno, probably
about as good as anything.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Nov 9, 12:12 pm, "dadiOH" wrote:
Barry Kwasny wrote:
I made a gothic bench from douglas fir and stained it.
Assembly will be made with wedged through tenons and tusked through
tenons. I want to use it outside on our deck and realize from
other projects that polyurethane doesn't quite hold up like I would
want it to. Would shellac give a lasting protection on stained
fir? I was thinking
of a good quality car wax. At least that would not peel and I
could apply as needed.
Or, has anyone used something on the order of Thompson's
waterseal on outdoor furniture??

There is nothing - NOTHING - you can put on it that won't require
maintenance. Worst are film finishes (varnish, poly or alkyd;
lacquer; shellac); easiest to renew are oils. Wax? Dunno, probably
about as good as anything.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

I use thompson's waterseal on outdoor stuff, but it has to be
reapplied
every year or two.

I was thinking Spar Varnish, the stuff they made for boats that is now
used on exterior doors but then someone mentioned Penofin. Yup, that's
what the pros would use. Penofin can come in colors too but just get
the straight stuff. Any good pro paint sho[p should likely have it.


On Nov 9, 5:27 am, "Barry Kwasny" wrote:
I made a gothic bench from douglas fir and stained it. Assembly will
be made with wedged through tenons and tusked through tenons. I want to use
it outside on our deck and realize from other projects that polyurethane
doesn't quite hold up like I would want it to.
Would shellac give a lasting protection on stained fir? I was thinking
of a good quality car wax. At least that would not peel and I could apply
as needed.
Or, has anyone used something on the order of Thompson's waterseal on
outdoor furniture??

Barry

"Barry Kwasny" wrote:

I made a gothic bench from douglas fir and stained it. Assembly will
be made with wedged through tenons and tusked through tenons. I want to
use it outside on our deck and realize from other projects that
polyurethane doesn't quite hold up like I would want it to.
Would shellac give a lasting protection on stained fir? I was thinking
of a good quality car wax. At least that would not peel and I could apply
as needed.


3 COATS LAMINATING EPOXY FOLLOWED BY 3 COATS VARNISH/POLY CONTAINING UV
INHIBITORS.

(Cap Lock off)

The epoxy protects the wood and the varnish protects the epoxy

THe varnish/poly is simple to repair.

Lew

..

Lew,
Only 3 coats of Varnish ?

All kidding aside - you did forget to mention it should be 'short oil'
varnish.

DO NOT, repeat NOT use 'Spar Varnish'. If you do, on a warm summer day you
WILL glue your butt to the bench !!

'Spar' NEVER hardens . . . it's not supposed to. The idea was to protect
wooden spars, allow movement & flexing, and yet be 'clear' to allow
inspection of the mast, yards, etc.

Regards,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"Lew Hodgett" wrote ...

"Barry Kwasny" wrote:
I made a gothic bench from douglas fir and stained it. {SNIP}

3 COATS LAMINATING EPOXY FOLLOWED BY 3 COATS VARNISH/POLY CONTAINING UV
INHIBITORS.

(Cap Lock off)

The epoxy protects the wood and the varnish protects the epoxy

THe varnish/poly is simple to repair.

Lew

"Ron Magen" wrote:

Only 3 coats of Varnish ?

All kidding aside - you did forget to mention it should be 'short oil'
varnish.

DO NOT, repeat NOT use 'Spar Varnish'. If you do, on a warm summer day you
WILL glue your butt to the bench !!

'Spar' NEVER hardens . . . it's not supposed to. The idea was to protect
wooden spars, allow movement & flexing, and yet be 'clear' to allow
inspection of the mast, yards, etc.

If this group was composed of boat builders, would have suggested 8-9 coats
of both epoxy and varnish/poly.G.

Lew

Fri, Nov 9, 2007, 8:27am (Barry*Kwasny) doth queryeth:
snip*Or, has anyone used something on the order of Thompson's
waterseal on outdoor furniture??

There's better than Thompson's. Talked to the Franklin glue guys
awhile back, I was told some sculpturerers use Titebond II as a coat for
outdoor sculptures. Apparently they're holding up well. I've not tried
outdoors, but it seems to be working quite well on some of my indoor
projects.



JOAT
Viet Nam. Divorce. Cancer. Been there, done that, got over it. Now
where the Hell are my T-shirts?
- JOAT