Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Old October 11th 03, 12:57 PM
Eric
 
Posts: n/a
Default Cedar deck maintenance

I built a cedar deck last year (approx 300 sq ft). Stained it with a
"semitransparent stain" from (I think) Behr (Home Depot). I can't
imagine that the wood hadn't cured, but in a large section (over 3 - 4
boards), the stain just bubbled up and peeled off. Now, after a year,
the stain on the high traffic parts of the deck is wearing off. My
primary question is how to prep the deck for refinishing. Sanding the
entire deck isn't an option, because the decking was put down with
screws, so they can't be set deeper into the wood. I've read that
power washing is an option, but will require going over the deck with
a sander (although that would be light sanding and, therefore,
feasible). I've also read about using TSP and bleach solutions, but
that seems to be more for mildew, which is not a problem in this case
(yet). So, has anyone found the magic bullet? (I'm in Nashville, in
case there are any regional solutions.)

My second question is what to use once I've prepped the deck. I know
there are opaque stains (that sound like they're paint, right?) and
semitransparent stains (more like what I think of as a woodstain,
right?) If I've got those right, I like the idea of a semitransparent
stain. Otherwise, I'd have built the deck out of pine. Consumer
Reports likes Wolman and Olympic semitransparent stains. I've read
about Sikkens, too. Is there any consensus?

Eric

  #2   Report Post  
Old October 11th 03, 03:06 PM
Leon
 
Posts: n/a
Default Cedar deck maintenance


"Eric" wrote in message
om...
I built a cedar deck last year (approx 300 sq ft). Stained it with a
"semitransparent stain" from (I think) Behr (Home Depot). I can't
imagine that the wood hadn't cured, but in a large section (over 3 - 4
boards), the stain just bubbled up and peeled off. Now, after a year,
the stain on the high traffic parts of the deck is wearing off.


This is not uncommpn with a stained or painted surface that gets foot
traffic. Aslo, if you did not seal or stain all sides of the boards, read
that as the bottom side, they can still absorbe moisture and cause the stain
ot sealer to fail.

My primary question is how to prep the deck for refinishing. Sanding the
entire deck isn't an option, because the decking was put down with
screws, so they can't be set deeper into the wood. I've read that
power washing is an option, but will require going over the deck with
a sander (although that would be light sanding and, therefore,
feasible). I've also read about using TSP and bleach solutions, but
that seems to be more for mildew, which is not a problem in this case
(yet). So, has anyone found the magic bullet? (I'm in Nashville, in
case there are any regional solutions.)

Unfortunately most any stain and or clear finish is going to have to be
maintained every couple of years. Many people just leave the surface
unfinished and let nature do its work. There are oil type finishes on the
market that do hold up better in the elements, Penofin IIRC does better than
most from what I have read.


My second question is what to use once I've prepped the deck. I know
there are opaque stains (that sound like they're paint, right?) and
semitransparent stains (more like what I think of as a woodstain,
right?) If I've got those right, I like the idea of a semitransparent
stain. Otherwise, I'd have built the deck out of pine. Consumer
Reports likes Wolman and Olympic semitransparent stains. I've read
about Sikkens, too. Is there any consensus?


For a finish to hold up decently outdoors, you need one that inhibits UV
rays from the sun. As you mentioned, opaque finishes tend to do best as
they block more of the suns rays that break down the finish. That said
however, it is still important to treat, stain, and or finish all sides that
are exposed to the elements. Moisture seeping in from the back sides of
the boards will eventually cause any finish to fail. Unfortunately you are
probably going to have to accept tthe fact that a re-do is going to be a
fact of life every 2 to 3 years.







Eric



  #3   Report Post  
Old October 11th 03, 08:44 PM
Eric
 
Posts: n/a
Default Cedar deck maintenance

I realize it will take repeated maintenance. This being my first time
through the process, my questions are how best to prep and what
products win the vote.
  #4   Report Post  
Old October 11th 03, 10:39 PM
Roger Jensen
 
Posts: n/a
Default Cedar deck maintenance

Eric,

As a wood preservative I would use nothing but Cabot products. They have
never failed to meet my expectations in dealing with outdoor woods. I have a
redwood deck and fence in my backyard, both have been treated with Cabot
3000 clear and have held up great. Fence was retreated after 5 years, deck
is two years old and still looks great. I have a lot of redwood furniture of
varied ages, some as much as 20 years old, all were finished with Cabot
sealers and remain looking good with minimal maintenance.

If your finish "bubbled up" it sounds like it was never bonded...that is
absorbed into the wood. No doubt there are many reason why that might have
happened, including product you used. The only way you will ever get a new
finish to absorb properly is to remove the old one. You mentioned screws not
allowing you to sand, can you remove them, countersink and re-screw the
deck? If so, then sanding down becomes an option and a really good one. If
not, then perhaps you would be best served using a chemical stripper.

Rog



"Eric" wrote in message
om...
I built a cedar deck last year (approx 300 sq ft). Stained it with a
"semitransparent stain" from (I think) Behr (Home Depot). I can't
imagine that the wood hadn't cured, but in a large section (over 3 - 4
boards), the stain just bubbled up and peeled off. Now, after a year,
the stain on the high traffic parts of the deck is wearing off. My
primary question is how to prep the deck for refinishing. Sanding the
entire deck isn't an option, because the decking was put down with
screws, so they can't be set deeper into the wood. I've read that
power washing is an option, but will require going over the deck with
a sander (although that would be light sanding and, therefore,
feasible). I've also read about using TSP and bleach solutions, but
that seems to be more for mildew, which is not a problem in this case
(yet). So, has anyone found the magic bullet? (I'm in Nashville, in
case there are any regional solutions.)

My second question is what to use once I've prepped the deck. I know
there are opaque stains (that sound like they're paint, right?) and
semitransparent stains (more like what I think of as a woodstain,
right?) If I've got those right, I like the idea of a semitransparent
stain. Otherwise, I'd have built the deck out of pine. Consumer
Reports likes Wolman and Olympic semitransparent stains. I've read
about Sikkens, too. Is there any consensus?

Eric



---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.522 / Virus Database: 320 - Release Date: 9/29/2003




Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Help - Deck flashing and inspections Jim Austin Woodworking 9 September 26th 03 09:00 PM
Cedar deck spacing Greg Woodworking 2 August 12th 03 03:02 AM
Varnishing a house deck? [deck refinishing] Ignoramus26420 Woodworking 19 July 22nd 03 03:20 PM
Deck Decision Help peter Woodworking 8 July 21st 03 05:36 PM
Deck Construction ? KJR UK diy 3 July 19th 03 10:11 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 05:19 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2004-2020 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"

 

Copyright © 2017