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Leon
 
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Default Cedar deck maintenance


"Eric" wrote in message
om...
I built a cedar deck last year (approx 300 sq ft). Stained it with a
"semitransparent stain" from (I think) Behr (Home Depot). I can't
imagine that the wood hadn't cured, but in a large section (over 3 - 4
boards), the stain just bubbled up and peeled off. Now, after a year,
the stain on the high traffic parts of the deck is wearing off.


This is not uncommpn with a stained or painted surface that gets foot
traffic. Aslo, if you did not seal or stain all sides of the boards, read
that as the bottom side, they can still absorbe moisture and cause the stain
ot sealer to fail.

My primary question is how to prep the deck for refinishing. Sanding the
entire deck isn't an option, because the decking was put down with
screws, so they can't be set deeper into the wood. I've read that
power washing is an option, but will require going over the deck with
a sander (although that would be light sanding and, therefore,
feasible). I've also read about using TSP and bleach solutions, but
that seems to be more for mildew, which is not a problem in this case
(yet). So, has anyone found the magic bullet? (I'm in Nashville, in
case there are any regional solutions.)

Unfortunately most any stain and or clear finish is going to have to be
maintained every couple of years. Many people just leave the surface
unfinished and let nature do its work. There are oil type finishes on the
market that do hold up better in the elements, Penofin IIRC does better than
most from what I have read.


My second question is what to use once I've prepped the deck. I know
there are opaque stains (that sound like they're paint, right?) and
semitransparent stains (more like what I think of as a woodstain,
right?) If I've got those right, I like the idea of a semitransparent
stain. Otherwise, I'd have built the deck out of pine. Consumer
Reports likes Wolman and Olympic semitransparent stains. I've read
about Sikkens, too. Is there any consensus?


For a finish to hold up decently outdoors, you need one that inhibits UV
rays from the sun. As you mentioned, opaque finishes tend to do best as
they block more of the suns rays that break down the finish. That said
however, it is still important to treat, stain, and or finish all sides that
are exposed to the elements. Moisture seeping in from the back sides of
the boards will eventually cause any finish to fail. Unfortunately you are
probably going to have to accept tthe fact that a re-do is going to be a
fact of life every 2 to 3 years.







Eric