I'm hoping to have my project ready for some finish this weekend.
Based on a test of water-based stain followed by BLO vs Danish Oil
SWMBO will probably want the DO.

I picked up what I hope will be the right color (Dark Walnut) and
Watco instructions say to flood the surface and leave for 30 minutes
then reapply.

Do I just pour it on and spread with a brush or rag? The tables are
Maple so I doubt much will soak into the wood in 30 minutes.

After letting dry for 72 hours (per instructions) I plan to cover with
Varnish (not poly).

RayV wrote:
I'm hoping to have my project ready for some finish this weekend.
Based on a test of water-based stain followed by BLO vs Danish Oil
SWMBO will probably want the DO.

I picked up what I hope will be the right color (Dark Walnut) and
Watco instructions say to flood the surface and leave for 30 minutes
then reapply.

Do I just pour it on and spread with a brush or rag?

Whatever works.
_____________

The tables are
Maple so I doubt much will soak into the wood in 30 minutes.

After letting dry for 72 hours (per instructions) I plan to cover
with Varnish (not poly).

To each their own but danged if I understand why people build
something of quality hardwood and then color it to resemble something
else.

Nor do I understand why people apply an oil then apply oil varnish on
top of it. Just the varnish would give the same effect.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Yikes. You will find that Maple will not take much color, not evenly
and especially not from an oil finish. I'm afraid what you'll get is
dirty looking Maple that is very unappealing.

While I would likely never go this route myself, I find myself
reccomending it quite a bit here on the wreck; use MinWax Polyshades.
It will coat over the top of the wood with a transparent colored
finish. Be very careful to get even coats and build several coats to
the darkness you want.

BW


On Oct 19, 10:34 am, RayV wrote:
I'm hoping to have my project ready for some finish this weekend.
Based on a test of water-based stain followed by BLO vs Danish Oil
SWMBO will probably want the DO.

I picked up what I hope will be the right color (Dark Walnut) and
Watco instructions say to flood the surface and leave for 30 minutes
then reapply.

Do I just pour it on and spread with a brush or rag? The tables are
Maple so I doubt much will soak into the wood in 30 minutes.

After letting dry for 72 hours (per instructions) I plan to cover with
Varnish (not poly).

On Fri, 19 Oct 2007 10:34:54 -0700, RayV
wrote:

I'm hoping to have my project ready for some finish this weekend.
Based on a test of water-based stain followed by BLO vs Danish Oil
SWMBO will probably want the DO.

I picked up what I hope will be the right color (Dark Walnut) and
Watco instructions say to flood the surface and leave for 30 minutes
then reapply.

Do I just pour it on and spread with a brush or rag? The tables are
Maple so I doubt much will soak into the wood in 30 minutes.

TEST IT! G It sounds as if you haven't tried Dark Walnut Watco.

A dark oil may very well blotch on maple, and the smooth surface of
maple will allow lots of the asphaltium (? G) pigment in that color
to wipe right off.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

Nor do I understand why people apply an oil then apply oil varnish on
top of it. Just the varnish would give the same effect.


oil dries slower and allows for more working with while wet. it
penetrates further because it has more time for capillary action to
pull it in. fresh oil on top of yesterday's oil makes no witness lines
and watching how it absorbs gives good feedback as to how well
saturated the wood is. wood saturated to capacity with oil has
significantly different optical properties than wood with a surface
film alone.

however, the oil doesn't provide much surface protection. varnish is a
good, tight, tough surface film.

On Oct 20, 3:23 pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
Yikes. You will find that Maple will not take much color, not evenly
and especially not from an oil finish. I'm afraid what you'll get is
dirty looking Maple that is very unappealing.

While I would likely never go this route myself, I find myself
reccomending it quite a bit here on the wreck; use MinWax Polyshades.
It will coat over the top of the wood with a transparent colored
finish. Be very careful to get even coats and build several coats to
the darkness you want.

BW

On Oct 19, 10:34 am, RayV wrote:



I'm hoping to have my project ready for some finish this weekend.
Based on a test of water-based stain followed by BLO vs Danish Oil
SWMBO will probably want the DO.

I picked up what I hope will be the right color (Dark Walnut) and
Watco instructions say to flood the surface and leave for 30 minutes
then reapply.

Do I just pour it on and spread with a brush or rag? The tables are
Maple so I doubt much will soak into the wood in 30 minutes.

After letting dry for 72 hours (per instructions) I plan to cover with
Varnish (not poly).- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You and B A R R Y were right on. I had tried DO 'natural' on Maple
and liked the way it enhanced the grain esp. the curly figure.

However, when I got the dark DO and tried it on the Maple the color
didn't take very well (blotchy and not nearly dark enough). Went and
got the h2o based polyshades and got just the color SWMBO wanted.

I really like building with maple especially for furniture but I'm
finding that putting a finish on it when you want color is a PITA.

As a side note all of the trouble I went through to find boards with
some curly figure were for naught. SWMBO said "I don't like those
lines", those panels have now become the shelves. Luckily I made all
of the panels big enough it won't matter.