I build a lot of boxes. Materials used include red oak, poplar and
pine. No problem with the hard woods BUT.

When finishing white pine with Minwax clear gloss polyurethane (oil
base). The first coat obviously raises grain and requires light
sanding and another coat. Now recently I have had to apply a third
coat and still have spots that when looking across the glaze appear to
have been missed. I know to use a sanding sealer before staining (no
stain in this case). Suppose that would be a better seal than the
poly?

Suggestions will be appreciated.
Kenneth

Digger wrote in
:

I build a lot of boxes. Materials used include red oak, poplar and
pine. No problem with the hard woods BUT.

When finishing white pine with Minwax clear gloss polyurethane (oil
base). The first coat obviously raises grain and requires light
sanding and another coat. Now recently I have had to apply a third
coat and still have spots that when looking across the glaze appear to
have been missed. I know to use a sanding sealer before staining (no
stain in this case). Suppose that would be a better seal than the
poly?

Suggestions will be appreciated.
Kenneth


Raising the grain with water is a problem? Then a quick sanding, with fine
paper, and you should be ok. Even if you DO want to mess up the project
with Minwax...

;-)

Patriarch,
not a fan of the yellow can...

On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 20:39:30 -0500, Patriarch
wrote:

Digger wrote in
:

I build a lot of boxes. Materials used include red oak, poplar and
pine. No problem with the hard woods BUT.

When finishing white pine with Minwax clear gloss polyurethane (oil
base). The first coat obviously raises grain and requires light
sanding and another coat. Now recently I have had to apply a third
coat and still have spots that when looking across the glaze appear to
have been missed. I know to use a sanding sealer before staining (no
stain in this case). Suppose that would be a better seal than the
poly?

Suggestions will be appreciated.
Kenneth


Raising the grain with water is a problem? Then a quick sanding, with fine
paper, and you should be ok. Even if you DO want to mess up the project
with Minwax...

;-)

Patriarch,
not a fan of the yellow can...

I agree about the yellow can. Are you saying to raise the grain with
water then apply the poly? Minwax oil based poly is the same as
several other brands so I have no problem with it. BTW the best tinted
paste wax I have ever found is from England (can't remember the name
at the moment) but their US distributer is in Memphis. Last time I
bought a gallon was 80.00 but last forever.
Kenneth

"Digger" wrote in message
...

I agree about the yellow can. Are you saying to raise the grain with
water then apply the poly? Minwax oil based poly is the same as
several other brands so I have no problem with it. BTW the best tinted
paste wax I have ever found is from England (can't remember the name
at the moment) but their US distributer is in Memphis. Last time I
bought a gallon was 80.00 but last forever.
Kenneth

I think he is saying that oil based finishes DO NOT raise the grain. Only
water based finishes raise the grain.

With pine you should first go down with a sanding sealer so that the varnish
does not soak in and give the blotchy spots you mention.

On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 21:29:02 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:


"Digger" wrote in message
.. .

I agree about the yellow can. Are you saying to raise the grain with
water then apply the poly? Minwax oil based poly is the same as
several other brands so I have no problem with it. BTW the best tinted
paste wax I have ever found is from England (can't remember the name
at the moment) but their US distributer is in Memphis. Last time I
bought a gallon was 80.00 but last forever.
Kenneth

I think he is saying that oil based finishes DO NOT raise the grain. Only
water based finishes raise the grain.

With pine you should first go down with a sanding sealer so that the varnish
does not soak in and give the blotchy spots you mention.

Ahh, I appreciate that!

Digger wrote:
On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 20:39:30 -0500, Patriarch
wrote:

Digger wrote in
:

I build a lot of boxes. Materials used include red oak, poplar and
pine. No problem with the hard woods BUT.

When finishing white pine with Minwax clear gloss polyurethane
(oil base). The first coat obviously raises grain and requires
light sanding and another coat. Now recently I have had to apply
a third coat and still have spots that when looking across the
glaze appear to have been missed. I know to use a sanding sealer
before staining (no stain in this case). Suppose that would be a
better seal than the poly?

Suggestions will be appreciated.
Kenneth


Raising the grain with water is a problem? Then a quick sanding,
with fine paper, and you should be ok. Even if you DO want to
mess up the project with Minwax...

;-)

Patriarch,
not a fan of the yellow can...

I agree about the yellow can. Are you saying to raise the grain with
water then apply the poly?

No. Raise grain, sand, apply poly.


--

dadiOH
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