I was considering getting a Rigid bandsaw until I read some of the
reviews on the HD web site. I like the looks of the saw, like the price
and I already have a table saw and jointer, which I am very pleased
with. Is this saw really as bad as some have suggested?

I've got the 14" model I picked up about 2 months ago. I've used it
about 3-4 times now and have no issues other than dust collection with
it. With the right blade tension, it tracks almost perfectly
straight, table is easy to adjust level, blade changeout is decent
(except for that plastic guard on the left being awkward). If you can
get it at a reasonable price, pick up a few blades extra and run w/
it!!!

On Oct 7, 11:10 pm, mapdude wrote:
I was considering getting a Rigid bandsaw until I read some of the
reviews on the HD web site. I like the looks of the saw, like the price
and I already have a table saw and jointer, which I am very pleased
with. Is this saw really as bad as some have suggested?

If you're not in an overwhelming hurry, I've got a Ridgid 14" sitting
here in its box, plus a Steel City 16" standing nearby. I need to
assemble both, but can't work in the shop right now--temps still in
the high 80s, low 90s, no air, age creeping up along with the
waistline, etc. I figure to get them done some time towards the end of
the month (nose surgery late next week is probably going to eat 2-3
days, and my schedule is already too damned tight for this week and
early next). Figure the 26th or so.

On Sun, 07 Oct 2007 22:10:23 -0500, mapdude wrote:

I was considering getting a Rigid bandsaw until I read some of the
reviews on the HD web site. I like the looks of the saw, like the price
and I already have a table saw and jointer, which I am very pleased
with. Is this saw really as bad as some have suggested?

I've had the BS1400 for a few years.. motivation to choose Ridgid was typical,
my wife got my a HD credit card and it was the only brand that they had a 14" BS
in..

Set up was pretty easy and maybe I got their one good machine, but I had no
issues with tracking, wobble, etc..
I use my miter fence from the table saw to cut pen blanks and other small stuff
and am surprised how straight and square it cuts... I really didn't buy the saw
for precision cuts..

It's been very good to me, though I do abuse it a bit... when cutting bowl
blanks round and things like that, I have to keep reminding myself that it's
only 3/4 hp and to SLOW DOWN.. not a bad thing, IMO..

Changes I've made:
Cool blocks... great investment, IMHO.. been using the same ones for maybe 2
years and they're still "cool"...

riser kit... least expensive was from Grizzly... for the money saved, I could
care less if the block is green..
Not only gives you more cutting clearance, but in my case more visibility and
light... also, you can play with table tops and jigs without worrying about
cutting clearance..
(I learned here in the rec that Griz, Ridgid and others are the same saw)

Link belt... made it MUCH quieter and allows more fine tuning of belt tension...

Dust collection:
Took out the little mickey mouse port and taped the opening over...
Cut a 4" hole in the lower door and put a DC on it.. MUCH BETTER!
I had a Y on it for a while with a 2nd hose under the table near the blade
guard, but the results weren't worth the hassle, IMHO..

I have gotten in the habit of taking the belt guard off every few months and
using the DC to suck the shavings out of that area...
Sawdust tends to accumulate between the top of the stand and the belts...
Probably not something that will hurt anything, but I have this image in my head
of the BS bursting into flames...
Future plans for a hinged door or something to make this task easier..
Thinking about that, I don't think it's putting much crap there since I did the
4" port in the door...




mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Oct 7, 11:10 pm, mapdude wrote:
I was considering getting a Rigid bandsaw until I read some of the
reviews on the HD web site. I like the looks of the saw, like the price
and I already have a table saw and jointer, which I am very pleased
with. Is this saw really as bad as some have suggested?

I have the older version, all grey in color. My saw was exactly what I
could
afford at the time. The fact that I was to able purchase it for $275
on sale also
helped. I have upgraded mine same as mac davis with link belt & cool
blocks.
I honestly don't see any reason for trading it up on a better brand/
model. I
have built some boats and lots of furniture with it and as long as I
don't push
it too hard it performs well. I wouldn't want to resaw thick (4")
hardwood with it
though. Anyone built a cabinet base for their Rigid?
My Rigid jointer has also performed very well and I believe I have
gotten more
than I paid for with both tools.

On Mon, 08 Oct 2007 11:06:18 -0700, bookman wrote:

On Oct 7, 11:10 pm, mapdude wrote:
I was considering getting a Rigid bandsaw until I read some of the
reviews on the HD web site. I like the looks of the saw, like the price
and I already have a table saw and jointer, which I am very pleased
with. Is this saw really as bad as some have suggested?

I have the older version, all grey in color. My saw was exactly what I
could
afford at the time. The fact that I was to able purchase it for $275
on sale also
helped. I have upgraded mine same as mac davis with link belt & cool
blocks.
I honestly don't see any reason for trading it up on a better brand/
model. I
have built some boats and lots of furniture with it and as long as I
don't push
it too hard it performs well. I wouldn't want to resaw thick (4")
hardwood with it
though. Anyone built a cabinet base for their Rigid?
My Rigid jointer has also performed very well and I believe I have
gotten more
than I paid for with both tools.

Good points!
I realized after reading your post that until I got my BS, I shied away from
Ridgid tools and borg power tools in general..
Looking around my shop now, I realize that my latest 2 additions are a table saw
and planer, both Ridgid..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Oct 9, 10:12 am, mac davis wrote:
On Mon, 08 Oct 2007 11:06:18 -0700, bookman wrote:
On Oct 7, 11:10 pm, mapdude wrote:
I was considering getting a Rigid bandsaw until I read some of the
reviews on the HD web site. I like the looks of the saw, like the price
and I already have a table saw and jointer, which I am very pleased
with. Is this saw really as bad as some have suggested?

I have the older version, all grey in color. My saw was exactly what I
could
afford at the time. The fact that I was to able purchase it for $275
on sale also
helped. I have upgraded mine same as mac davis with link belt & cool
blocks.
I honestly don't see any reason for trading it up on a better brand/
model. I
have built some boats and lots of furniture with it and as long as I
don't push
it too hard it performs well. I wouldn't want to resaw thick (4")
hardwood with it
though. Anyone built a cabinet base for their Rigid?
My Rigid jointer has also performed very well and I believe I have
gotten more
than I paid for with both tools.

Good points!
I realized after reading your post that until I got my BS, I shied away from
Ridgid tools and borg power tools in general..
Looking around my shop now, I realize that my latest 2 additions are a table saw
and planer, both Ridgid..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ridgid is alright but if I wa not in a hurry or dire need I wuld look
for some good old american iron being sold from an out of business
shop or old wood workers estate. The biggest problems with the Ridgid
BS is the lightweight castings used onthe upper end, its easy to
spring out of shape by trying to tension the blade sufficiently, and
then the motor is working hard too as its over rated for what it
actually is in horsepower..........Put an amp meter on it when cutting
something like 1" pine and its maxing out the amperage draw rating of
the motor as its basically border line in its application. Even the
blade guides leave a lot to be desired. I would save or hold on to my $
$$$ and start looking for that long lost piece of american iron.
However if yur satisfied with a 1/4" wide blade and cutting thin
materials I suppose it will do just fine. At a minimum I wuld buy a
JET and even then its not really near as good as an old American made
piece that you may find. I picked up an Oliver 24" bandsaw w/3 phase
motor which I replaced with a single phase 220 motor, and had right at
$400 in it counting the motor I used and new tires ( i installed
polyurethane tires in place of rubber).............All 110% castiron
and made to run 24/7

eekamouse wrote:
On Oct 9, 10:12 am, mac davis wrote:

On Mon, 08 Oct 2007 11:06:18 -0700, bookman wrote:

On Oct 7, 11:10 pm, mapdude wrote:

I was considering getting a Rigid bandsaw until I read some of the
reviews on the HD web site. I like the looks of the saw, like the price
and I already have a table saw and jointer, which I am very pleased
with. Is this saw really as bad as some have suggested?

I have the older version, all grey in color. My saw was exactly what I
could
afford at the time. The fact that I was to able purchase it for $275
on sale also
helped. I have upgraded mine same as mac davis with link belt & cool
blocks.
I honestly don't see any reason for trading it up on a better brand/
model. I
have built some boats and lots of furniture with it and as long as I
don't push
it too hard it performs well. I wouldn't want to resaw thick (4")
hardwood with it
though. Anyone built a cabinet base for their Rigid?
My Rigid jointer has also performed very well and I believe I have
gotten more
than I paid for with both tools.

Good points!
I realized after reading your post that until I got my BS, I shied away from
Ridgid tools and borg power tools in general..
Looking around my shop now, I realize that my latest 2 additions are a table saw
and planer, both Ridgid..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Ridgid is alright but if I wa not in a hurry or dire need I wuld look
for some good old american iron being sold from an out of business
shop or old wood workers estate. The biggest problems with the Ridgid
BS is the lightweight castings used onthe upper end, its easy to
spring out of shape by trying to tension the blade sufficiently, and
then the motor is working hard too as its over rated for what it
actually is in horsepower..........Put an amp meter on it when cutting
something like 1" pine and its maxing out the amperage draw rating of
the motor as its basically border line in its application. Even the
blade guides leave a lot to be desired. I would save or hold on to my $
$$$ and start looking for that long lost piece of american iron.
However if yur satisfied with a 1/4" wide blade and cutting thin
materials I suppose it will do just fine. At a minimum I wuld buy a
JET and even then its not really near as good as an old American made
piece that you may find. I picked up an Oliver 24" bandsaw w/3 phase
motor which I replaced with a single phase 220 motor, and had right at
$400 in it counting the motor I used and new tires ( i installed
polyurethane tires in place of rubber).............All 110% castiron
and made to run 24/7

I can't agree with the statement on 1" pine. I have used mine on 3 and
4 inch

red oak for furniture parts as well as cutting bowl disks from dry
blanks in various
woods.

On Tue, 09 Oct 2007 13:06:47 -0700, eekamouse wrote:


Ridgid is alright but if I wa not in a hurry or dire need I wuld look
for some good old american iron being sold from an out of business
shop or old wood workers estate. The biggest problems with the Ridgid
BS is the lightweight castings used onthe upper end, its easy to
spring out of shape by trying to tension the blade sufficiently, and
then the motor is working hard too as its over rated for what it
actually is in horsepower..........Put an amp meter on it when cutting
something like 1" pine and its maxing out the amperage draw rating of
the motor as its basically border line in its application. Even the
blade guides leave a lot to be desired. I would save or hold on to my $
$$$ and start looking for that long lost piece of american iron.
However if yur satisfied with a 1/4" wide blade and cutting thin
materials I suppose it will do just fine. At a minimum I wuld buy a
JET and even then its not really near as good as an old American made
piece that you may find. I picked up an Oliver 24" bandsaw w/3 phase
motor which I replaced with a single phase 220 motor, and had right at
$400 in it counting the motor I used and new tires ( i installed
polyurethane tires in place of rubber).............All 110% castiron
and made to run 24/7

Ridgid works for me.. especially since at the time of purchase, my wife had
gotten me a HD credit card with 10% off 1st purchase and 1 year no interest or
payments on purchase over $300.. ;-]

After trying blades from 1/4" to 3/4", I've found that a 3/8" blade works best
for me and what I do..

Sure, it's not a Luguna, but it was only $325...
I cut bowl blanks out of green wood up to 10" thick, so I doubt that 1" pine is
a problem....
I was cutting goblet blanks out of 12" sections of 3" thick mahogany last week
and was happy with the cuts... just can't be in a hurry..

I'm trying to picture where I'd fit a 24" BS in my shop... probably have to put
it outside and that would be a pita... lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Oct 9, 6:43 pm, John Siegel wrote:
eekamouse wrote:
On Oct 9, 10:12 am, mac davis wrote:

On Mon, 08 Oct 2007 11:06:18 -0700, bookman wrote:

On Oct 7, 11:10 pm, mapdude wrote:

I was considering getting a Rigid bandsaw until I read some of the
reviews on the HD web site. I like the looks of the saw, like the price
and I already have a table saw and jointer, which I am very pleased
with. Is this saw really as bad as some have suggested?

I have the older version, all grey in color. My saw was exactly what I
could
afford at the time. The fact that I was to able purchase it for $275
on sale also
helped. I have upgraded mine same as mac davis with link belt & cool
blocks.
I honestly don't see any reason for trading it up on a better brand/
model. I
have built some boats and lots of furniture with it and as long as I
don't push
it too hard it performs well. I wouldn't want to resaw thick (4")
hardwood with it
though. Anyone built a cabinet base for their Rigid?
My Rigid jointer has also performed very well and I believe I have
gotten more
than I paid for with both tools.

Good points!
I realized after reading your post that until I got my BS, I shied away from
Ridgid tools and borg power tools in general..
Looking around my shop now, I realize that my latest 2 additions are a table saw
and planer, both Ridgid..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ridgid is alright but if I wa not in a hurry or dire need I wuld look
for some good old american iron being sold from an out of business
shop or old wood workers estate. The biggest problems with the Ridgid
BS is the lightweight castings used onthe upper end, its easy to
spring out of shape by trying to tension the blade sufficiently, and
then the motor is working hard too as its over rated for what it
actually is in horsepower..........Put an amp meter on it when cutting
something like 1" pine and its maxing out the amperage draw rating of
the motor as its basically border line in its application. Even the
blade guides leave a lot to be desired. I would save or hold on to my $
$$$ and start looking for that long lost piece of american iron.
However if yur satisfied with a 1/4" wide blade and cutting thin
materials I suppose it will do just fine. At a minimum I wuld buy a
JET and even then its not really near as good as an old American made
piece that you may find. I picked up an Oliver 24" bandsaw w/3 phase
motor which I replaced with a single phase 220 motor, and had right at
$400 in it counting the motor I used and new tires ( i installed
polyurethane tires in place of rubber).............All 110% castiron
and made to run 24/7

I can't agree with the statement on 1" pine. I have used mine on 3 and
4 inch

red oak for furniture parts as well as cutting bowl disks from dry
blanks in various
woods.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So can I assume you actually performed a amperage draw test on the saw
under various conditions as well as temp rise on the motor......... I
doubt it...........Your just T'd cause you got such a **** poor saw
barely over what a Harbor Freight saw would equate to.

On Oct 10, 9:49 am, mac davis wrote:
On Tue, 09 Oct 2007 13:06:47 -0700, eekamouse wrote:
Ridgid is alright but if I wa not in a hurry or dire need I wuld look
for some good old american iron being sold from an out of business
shop or old wood workers estate. The biggest problems with the Ridgid
BS is the lightweight castings used onthe upper end, its easy to
spring out of shape by trying to tension the blade sufficiently, and
then the motor is working hard too as its over rated for what it
actually is in horsepower..........Put an amp meter on it when cutting
something like 1" pine and its maxing out the amperage draw rating of
the motor as its basically border line in its application. Even the
blade guides leave a lot to be desired. I would save or hold on to my $
$$$ and start looking for that long lost piece of american iron.
However if yur satisfied with a 1/4" wide blade and cutting thin
materials I suppose it will do just fine. At a minimum I wuld buy a
JET and even then its not really near as good as an old American made
piece that you may find. I picked up an Oliver 24" bandsaw w/3 phase
motor which I replaced with a single phase 220 motor, and had right at
$400 in it counting the motor I used and new tires ( i installed
polyurethane tires in place of rubber).............All 110% castiron
and made to run 24/7

Ridgid works for me.. especially since at the time of purchase, my wife had
gotten me a HD credit card with 10% off 1st purchase and 1 year no interest or
payments on purchase over $300.. ;-]

After trying blades from 1/4" to 3/4", I've found that a 3/8" blade works best
for me and what I do..

Sure, it's not a Luguna, but it was only $325...
I cut bowl blanks out of green wood up to 10" thick, so I doubt that 1" pine is
a problem....
I was cutting goblet blanks out of 12" sections of 3" thick mahogany last week
and was happy with the cuts... just can't be in a hurry..

I'm trying to picture where I'd fit a 24" BS in my shop... probably have to put
it outside and that would be a pita... lol

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I am sure you wuld refuse such a saw if it was given too you. Most
foks would set up a saw like that in the living room if they had to if
they could get one like it.I assume your happy with your bench top
Harbor Freight or Crapsman or better yet the China made Delta for $99
at Lowes.............Sure is nice where somethnig that is totally
unrelated to the topic has to be induced, such as having to use it
outside and PITA etc etc.I read that as , God dam I missed out on a
super deal because |I was too ****ing lazy to get off my fat ****ing
ass andl ook around so now I am stuck with this Delta crap.but at
least it fits on my kitchen table!

On Wed, 10 Oct 2007 11:35:02 -0700, eekamouse wrote:


I am sure you wuld refuse such a saw if it was given too you. Most
foks would set up a saw like that in the living room if they had to if
they could get one like it.I assume your happy with your bench top
Harbor Freight or Crapsman or better yet the China made Delta for $99
at Lowes.............

Wow.. did they call you "Mr. Sun Beam" in school?

Sure, I'd set up the saw in my carport with the rest of the big tools if I got
it free.. but tools just don't seem to fall out of the sky for me..

But I'd still keep the Ridgid in the shop for the everyday stuff that I bought
it for..
And I'll also keep trying to answer the questions people post instead of telling
them how stupid they are for asking about a specific tool..

Sorry if my Karma ran over your Dogma..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Oct 8, 9:12 am, Duff wrote:
blade changeout is decent
(except for that plastic guard on the left being awkward).

I have the same bs, and the comment about the plastic guard made be
chuckle - I went thru the same thing till I read a post (on here I
think) that the guard can be simply turned back to front - that way
you never have to take it off!
Far as I can see, it presents no safety issue, and makes blade changes
a breeze.