OK I tried this stuff again. I was using hard maple, I wet it down good. I
glued both sides and seated a 1x2 into a 1/4" rabit that was a "tap in" tight
fit. This was clamped overnight. The next day a light tap with a hammer broke
the joint with absolutely no damage to the wood. I think library paste would
have done a better job. Where did I go wrong? I can send pictures of the bad
joint.

It sounds as thoough one side of the maple may have had a coat of wax,
silicone spray or some other kind of contaminat. That sounds unkike
any experience I have ever had with Gorilla glue. Guess it could be a
bad batch. Also, I have heard that there is a shelf life of one-two
years on a bottle so maybe yours is old stock? Is there a chance you
squeezed all the glue out when you clamped? That's bout all the ideas
I can come up with. Unless the bottom of the rabbet was not square
with the 1/4. It won't bridge a large gap very well. If you used a
wobble dado blade, it leaves the bottom of the joint rather rounded.



On 20 Aug 2003 19:38:11 GMT, reg (Gfretwell) wrote:

OK I tried this stuff again. I was using hard maple, I wet it down good. I
glued both sides and seated a 1x2 into a 1/4" rabit that was a "tap in" tight
fit. This was clamped overnight. The next day a light tap with a hammer broke
the joint with absolutely no damage to the wood. I think library paste would
have done a better job. Where did I go wrong? I can send pictures of the bad
joint.

reg (Gfretwell) wrote in
:

OK I tried this stuff again. I was using hard maple, I wet it down
good. I

Why did you wet it?
I never wet wood. Used gorilla glue in some wood repair. There's
no way those pieces of wood are coming apart :-)


ken

"Ken Yee" wrote in message


OK I tried this stuff again. I was using hard maple, I wet it down
good. I

Why did you wet it?
I never wet wood. Used gorilla glue in some wood repair. There's
no way those pieces of wood are coming apart :-)


Read the directions on the bottle. Gorilla Glue and or polyurethane glue
cures in the presence of moisture. Adding water speeds cure time.

"Leon" wrote in message
m...

"Ken Yee" wrote in message


OK I tried this stuff again. I was using hard maple, I wet it down
good. I

Why did you wet it?
I never wet wood. Used gorilla glue in some wood repair. There's
no way those pieces of wood are coming apart :-)


Read the directions on the bottle. Gorilla Glue and or polyurethane glue
cures in the presence of moisture. Adding water speeds cure time.


But adding too much water, especially with a tight-grain wood like maple,
causes the glue to foam into nothingness and never get into the pores. If
the wood has 7-8% moisture content I've never had to add moisture and it has
always held fine for me even in some very difficult situations.
--
John McGaw
[Knoxville, TN, USA]

Return address will not work. Please
reply in group or through my website:
http://johnmcgaw.com

Why did you wet it?

It said to on the bottle?

The first joints I made were dry and they snapped clean too. (edge to edge) I
haven't seen any wood damage in any of the failed joints. So much for "the
joint is stronger than the wood".
BTW my white glue experiment came out exactly the same. Is this just a hard
maple problem?

"Gfretwell" wrote in message
...
Why did you wet it?

It said to on the bottle?

The first joints I made were dry and they snapped clean too. (edge to
edge) I
haven't seen any wood damage in any of the failed joints. So much for "the
joint is stronger than the wood".
BTW my white glue experiment came out exactly the same. Is this just a
hard
maple problem?

It is an end grain to side grain problem..the way you are trying to glue the
joint. Try glues on the maple, side grain to side grain and you will
find that is not a maple or glue problem.

Try glues on the maple, side grain to side grain and you will
find that is not a maple or glue problem.

I have some failed side to side failures you can look at too. That was what
started this.
The "end grain" is in a mortise that is actually 3/8" deep" (I said 1/4
earlier).
These are typical joints I see everywhere.
I am about to shoot some stainless screws into these joints to save my $60 glue
up. :-)
So far the glue up is holding but the cut off pieces will easily fail

BTW this is Gorrila Glue's answer
"From: (Judy Tracy)
To:

As far as we know, that wasn't a bad lot, but other than sending you another
bottle to try it again, I can't be of any more help. Most of the time the
glue fails, it has to do with moisture.
Judy

reg (Gfretwell) wrote in message ...
Why did you wet it?

It said to on the bottle?

The first joints I made were dry and they snapped clean too. (edge to edge) I
haven't seen any wood damage in any of the failed joints. So much for "the
joint is stronger than the wood".
BTW my white glue experiment came out exactly the same. Is this just a hard
maple problem?

I think there may be a couple things going on here. First, an end
grain joint is inherently weak. I know, I know, one side is edge
grain, but a joint hath two sides, and is only as strong as its
weakest component. Second, and this is speculative because I obviously
didn't see you glue the joint, it sounds like, perhaps because of your
prior troubles, you may have used TOO much water. As others have
indicated, PU works best in the presence of MOISTURE. I've seen people
really dousing the wood prior to using this stuff (again, I'm not
saying YOU did this). Just a very light misting of water from a spray
bottle is MORE than enough.

For an end grain joint like this, I would use epoxy. Or some
mechanical assistance.

reg (Gfretwell) wrote in message ...
Why did you wet it?

It said to on the bottle?

The first joints I made were dry and they snapped clean too. (edge to edge) I
haven't seen any wood damage in any of the failed joints. So much for "the
joint is stronger than the wood".
BTW my white glue experiment came out exactly the same. Is this just a hard
maple problem?

One other thing: If it's hard maple, my experience with that wood has
been that, particularly when it's sanded, it can become almost
"burnished" so that it does not absorb stain, for example, easily.
I'm wondering whether whatever quality that causes that also affects
its "glue-ability?"

Sounds like operator error...;~) But I cannot imagine that happening 2
times in a row. Probably bad or old product. I use the stuff and it works
great. Things to keep in mind.

DO NOT over tighten your clamps. Always add water to the mating side. Be
certain that your surfaces are as flat as you can possibly make them.

Again, your glue must be bad for it to fail so miserably.




"Gfretwell" wrote in message
...
OK I tried this stuff again. I was using hard maple, I wet it down good. I
glued both sides and seated a 1x2 into a 1/4" rabit that was a "tap in"
tight
fit. This was clamped overnight. The next day a light tap with a hammer
broke
the joint with absolutely no damage to the wood. I think library paste
would
have done a better job. Where did I go wrong? I can send pictures of the
bad
joint.

OK, operator error like another poster indicated. end grain to long grain
is not going to be a strong joint with out a mortise and tennon, biscuit,
dowel or screws to back up the glue.



"

Too much 'wet'??

--
Tim
--------
See my page @ http://www.wood-workers.com/users/timv/ (seriously needs
updating)

Don't like poly glue much but do have uses for it once and awhile. Never had
a problem with it's strength myself. But then I just dampen one side of the
joint and only apply glue to the other side. I believe that is what the
directions on the container calls for and it works pretty well for me.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Gfretwell" wrote in message
...
OK I tried this stuff again. I was using hard maple, I wet it down good. I
glued both sides and seated a 1x2 into a 1/4" rabit that was a "tap in"
tight
fit. This was clamped overnight. The next day a light tap with a hammer
broke
the joint with absolutely no damage to the wood. I think library paste
would
have done a better job. Where did I go wrong? I can send pictures of the
bad
joint.

I just dampen one side of the
joint and only apply glue to the other side. I believe that is what the
directions on the container calls for

"...for hardwoods like oak or maple lightly dampen both surfaces"

The first time (edge to edge joint) I wiped them with a damp rag. The joint I
pictured was misted with a spray a bottle.
Everything was cured overnight.
The only things common are the wood itself and the glue. I have a dialog going
with gorillaglue.com.
Today I am going to glue up some other types of wood with this same glue.

Makes you wonder why did you ask!

I ask because I don't know.
At this point I am wondering wheter the best answer might be to ignore the
common wisdom of having well manicured surfaces and to scuff up the wood with a
chipped tooth table saw blade where it mates. (and I just threw one of those
away)

Someone here mentioned a possibility-that the end grain absorbed the
glue. I haven't run into that before but the picture did look as
though the end grain was mighty porous.

On 21 Aug 2003 16:01:32 GMT, reg (Gfretwell) wrote:

I just dampen one side of the
joint and only apply glue to the other side. I believe that is what the
directions on the container calls for

"...for hardwoods like oak or maple lightly dampen both surfaces"

The first time (edge to edge joint) I wiped them with a damp rag. The joint I
pictured was misted with a spray a bottle.
Everything was cured overnight.
The only things common are the wood itself and the glue. I have a dialog going
with gorillaglue.com.
Today I am going to glue up some other types of wood with this same glue.

"Gfretwell" wrote in message
...
I just dampen one side of the
joint and only apply glue to the other side. I believe that is what the
directions on the container calls for

"...for hardwoods like oak or maple lightly dampen both surfaces"

The first time (edge to edge joint) I wiped them with a damp rag. The
joint I
pictured was misted with a spray a bottle.
Everything was cured overnight.
The only things common are the wood itself and the glue. I have a dialog
going
with gorillaglue.com.
Today I am going to glue up some other types of wood with this same glue.

Perhaps this is nothing new, but the joint has to be beyond perfect. Not a
hair (real hair) width's crack anywhere. Lots of clamp pressure, too.
--
Jim in NC--

Perhaps this is nothing new, but the joint has to be beyond perfect. Not a
hair (real hair) width's crack anywhere. Lots of clamp pressure, too.

I certainly am getting all sides of this. :-)
"It's too tight"
"It's too loose"
"Too wet"
"Too dry"


I think I am just going back to good old yellow glue.

I think I am just going back to good old yellow glue.

That's my favorite!

If it ain't broke..................
--
Jim in NC--

To heck with it!! Use titebond!!


"Gfretwell" wrote in message
...
OK I tried this stuff again. I was using hard maple, I wet it down good. I
glued both sides and seated a 1x2 into a 1/4" rabit that was a "tap in"
tight
fit. This was clamped overnight. The next day a light tap with a hammer
broke
the joint with absolutely no damage to the wood. I think library paste
would
have done a better job. Where did I go wrong? I can send pictures of the
bad
joint.

I've used GG for a number of outdoor applications and have had no problem.
Remember that per the instructions, apply the glue lightly to one of the two
surfaces and apply water lightly to the other. The glue draws its moisture
from that water, and will expand to about 4x its original volume. Then clamp
tightly for 1-4 hours. The end grain to end grain joint isn't very strong,
but it should have held better than what you've described if the glue was
properly applied.

Bob
..
"Gfretwell" wrote in message
...
OK I tried this stuff again. I was using hard maple, I wet it down good. I
glued both sides and seated a 1x2 into a 1/4" rabit that was a "tap in"
tight
fit. This was clamped overnight. The next day a light tap with a hammer
broke
the joint with absolutely no damage to the wood. I think library paste
would
have done a better job. Where did I go wrong? I can send pictures of the
bad
joint.

I tried the glue on the liner of my eyeglass case. I moistened one side and gorilla the opposite side. I clamped the 2 sides together. I thought great! The next morning the liner popped open and came right apart. Gorilla glue is deficient! Im very disappointed. 😕

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...ck-144291-.htm

On 6/15/2021 11:45 AM, nancy wrote:
I tried the glue on the liner of my eyeglass case. I moistened one side
and gorilla the opposite side. I clamped the 2 sides together. I thought
great! The next morning the liner popped open and came right apart.
Gorilla glue is deficient! Im very disappointed. 😕


Were both surfaces clean? Moistened with what?