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#1
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MDF table top
"Fred McClellan" wrote in message ... Hi all . . . I need to build a new model airplane building table; my old hollow-core door lash-up finally sagged after a year's use. The table needs to be dead flat. The way I build the model airplanes is to top the table with a sheet of 1/2" foam building insulation, lay the plans on the foam, cover the plans with waxed paper, and build the various parts of the model directly over the plans. The foam insulation sheet is so I use T-pins to hold the wood parts in place during frame-up. No need for drawers or storage; the table is strictly for building the airframe. There will never be any weight to speak of on the building bench, other than the airframe, hand tools, bottle of Titebond, etc. Nothing heavy at all; the model I'm working on now will weigh about 30 pounds ready-to-fly. Finished models won't ever be placed on the building table, only the major sub-assemblies like the right wing, left wing, fuselage, or tail feathers. I need the work surface to be 30" wide x 6' long to handle any model I'll likely build in the near future. The table has to come apart from time to time so I can regain floor space for doing things like rigging the paint tent, checking the CG on a completed model, etc. Which in turn means the building bench can't be built like one would build a regular wood working bench, I gotts to break it down and stash it in the corner from time to time. The question is, using 1/2" MDF for the work surface, how much support will be needed to insure it doesn't droop over time ? I thought a pair of 2x6s length wise, 10" in from the front and rear edge, a 2x4 frame with 2x4 legs, and I'm done. Sound ok, or did I miss something ? I know a sheet of 3/4" MDF would be better and that laminating two 3/4" MDF sheets would be best, but that sort of weight impacts the bit about having to take it apart now and then; without a chain fall, that is. g Cheers, Fred McClellan the dash plumber at mindspring dot com |
#2
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MDF table top
That will work just fine. Use folding legs and tilt it up, fold the legs and
lean against a wall. Quick and easy. "Fred McClellan" wrote in message ... Hi all . . . I thought a pair of 2x6s length wise, 10" in from the front and rear edge, a 2x4 frame with 2x4 legs, and I'm done. Sound ok, or did I miss something ? I know a sheet of 3/4" MDF would be better and that laminating two 3/4" MDF sheets would be best, but that sort of weight impacts the bit about having to take it apart now and then; without a chain fall, that is. g Cheers, Fred McClellan the dash plumber at mindspring dot com |
#3
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MDF table top
I know a sheet of 3/4" MDF would be better and that laminating two 3/4" MDF sheets would be best, but that sort of weight impacts the bit about having to take it apart now and then; without a chain fall, that New Yankee workshop has plans and a show on making a sturdy, lightweight table with retractable wheels, you may want to look at that for ideas. He uses 1/2 inch MDF for the top and "hollow door like construction" piece under it for support. The best part is after the mdf gets messed up it is easily replaced, protecting the table itself. You don't need the strength to handle the weight Norm's does, so you can make things smaller. |
#4
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MDF table top
Look at David Marks web site for his torsion table.
Grant JEL wrote: I know a sheet of 3/4" MDF would be better and that laminating two 3/4" MDF sheets would be best, but that sort of weight impacts the bit about having to take it apart now and then; without a chain fall, that New Yankee workshop has plans and a show on making a sturdy, lightweight table with retractable wheels, you may want to look at that for ideas. He uses 1/2 inch MDF for the top and "hollow door like construction" piece under it for support. The best part is after the mdf gets messed up it is easily replaced, protecting the table itself. You don't need the strength to handle the weight Norm's does, so you can make things smaller. |
#5
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MDF table top
make the top a 'torsion box'
it'll be lighter so you can move it around if you want, and it will be flatter and stronger. "Fred McClellan" wrote in message ... Hi all . . . I need to build a new model airplane building table; my old hollow-core door lash-up finally sagged after a year's use. The table needs to be dead flat. The way I build the model airplanes is to top the table with a sheet of 1/2" foam building insulation, lay the plans on the foam, cover the plans with waxed paper, and build the various parts of the model directly over the plans. The foam insulation sheet is so I use T-pins to hold the wood parts in place during frame-up. No need for drawers or storage; the table is strictly for building the airframe. There will never be any weight to speak of on the building bench, other than the airframe, hand tools, bottle of Titebond, etc. Nothing heavy at all; the model I'm working on now will weigh about 30 pounds ready-to-fly. Finished models won't ever be placed on the building table, only the major sub-assemblies like the right wing, left wing, fuselage, or tail feathers. I need the work surface to be 30" wide x 6' long to handle any model I'll likely build in the near future. The table has to come apart from time to time so I can regain floor space for doing things like rigging the paint tent, checking the CG on a completed model, etc. Which in turn means the building bench can't be built like one would build a regular wood working bench, I gotts to break it down and stash it in the corner from time to time. The question is, using 1/2" MDF for the work surface, how much support will be needed to insure it doesn't droop over time ? I thought a pair of 2x6s length wise, 10" in from the front and rear edge, a 2x4 frame with 2x4 legs, and I'm done. Sound ok, or did I miss something ? I know a sheet of 3/4" MDF would be better and that laminating two 3/4" MDF sheets would be best, but that sort of weight impacts the bit about having to take it apart now and then; without a chain fall, that is. g Cheers, Fred McClellan the dash plumber at mindspring dot com |
#6
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MDF table top
[posted and mailed]
Fred McClellan wrote in : Hi all . . . I need to build a new model airplane building table; my old hollow-core door lash-up finally sagged after a year's use. The table needs to be dead flat. This is overkill for what you need, but it might give you ideas for making a torsion box: http://tinyurl.com/kcxf http://www.diynet.com/DIY/episode/0,...K-409,FF.shtml |
#7
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MDF table top
On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 05:22:33 GMT, "CW"
wrote: That will work just fine. Use folding legs and tilt it up, fold the legs and lean against a wall. Quick and easy. Thought so. That's the way the main work bench is made, except with hinges at the wall and removable front legs. Thanx. Cheers, Fred McClellan the dash plumber at mindspring dot com |
#8
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MDF table top
On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 14:32:46 GMT, Patrick Fitzgerald
wrote: [posted and mailed] Fred McClellan wrote in : Hi all . . . I need to build a new model airplane building table; my old hollow-core door lash-up finally sagged after a year's use. The table needs to be dead flat. This is overkill for what you need, but it might give you ideas for making a torsion box: http://tinyurl.com/kcxf http://www.diynet.com/DIY/episode/0,...K-409,FF.shtml Yeah, it's prolly a bit on the weighty side, but I'll chew on making it lighter one way or t'other. Thanks for the links, although I suspect in the long run all you've done is get me in more trouble with The Redhead Herself. I mean, damn ! Lookit all the stuff to be built ! g Cheers, Fred McClellan the dash plumber at mindspring dot com |
#9
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MDF table top
On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 04:36:18 GMT, "Rob V"
wrote: Ideally - do a torsoin box w/ 2 peices of 1/2 in MDF. (1 for the top and 1 for the bottom) Better yet - do 1/2 melimine on top and mdf on the bottom w/ 1/2 mdf for stretchers inside. Yeah - found the links to the torsion box episodes. Looks like The Building Table Du Jour, alright. Just wondering how heavy that thing is, and whether I can rig a chain fall to the rafters when it comes time to move it, without pulling the roof down . . . g Cheers, Fred McClellan the dash plumber at mindspring dot com |
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