MDF table top
 

"Fred McClellan" wrote in message
...
Hi all . . .

I need to build a new model airplane building table; my old
hollow-core door lash-up finally sagged after a year's use.

The table needs to be dead flat. The way I build the model airplanes
is to top the table with a sheet of 1/2" foam building insulation, lay
the plans on the foam, cover the plans with waxed paper, and build the
various parts of the model directly over the plans. The foam
insulation sheet is so I use T-pins to hold the wood parts in place
during frame-up.

No need for drawers or storage; the table is strictly for building the
airframe.

There will never be any weight to speak of on the building bench,
other than the airframe, hand tools, bottle of Titebond, etc. Nothing
heavy at all; the model I'm working on now will weigh about 30 pounds
ready-to-fly. Finished models won't ever be placed on the building
table, only the major sub-assemblies like the right wing, left wing,
fuselage, or tail feathers.

I need the work surface to be 30" wide x 6' long to handle any model
I'll likely build in the near future.

The table has to come apart from time to time so I can regain floor
space for doing things like rigging the paint tent, checking the CG on
a completed model, etc. Which in turn means the building bench can't
be built like one would build a regular wood working bench, I gotts to
break it down and stash it in the corner from time to time.

The question is, using 1/2" MDF for the work surface, how much support
will be needed to insure it doesn't droop over time ?

I thought a pair of 2x6s length wise, 10" in from the front and rear
edge, a 2x4 frame with 2x4 legs, and I'm done.

Sound ok, or did I miss something ?

I know a sheet of 3/4" MDF would be better and that laminating two
3/4" MDF sheets would be best, but that sort of weight impacts the bit
about having to take it apart now and then; without a chain fall, that
is.

g
Cheers,
Fred McClellan
the dash plumber at mindspring dot com

MDF table top
 

That will work just fine. Use folding legs and tilt it up, fold the legs and
lean against a wall. Quick and easy.
"Fred McClellan" wrote in message
...
Hi all . . .

I thought a pair of 2x6s length wise, 10" in from the front and rear
edge, a 2x4 frame with 2x4 legs, and I'm done.

Sound ok, or did I miss something ?

I know a sheet of 3/4" MDF would be better and that laminating two
3/4" MDF sheets would be best, but that sort of weight impacts the bit
about having to take it apart now and then; without a chain fall, that
is.

g
Cheers,
Fred McClellan
the dash plumber at mindspring dot com

MDF table top
 

I know a sheet of 3/4" MDF would be better and that laminating two
3/4" MDF sheets would be best, but that sort of weight impacts the bit
about having to take it apart now and then; without a chain fall, that


New Yankee workshop has plans and a show on making a sturdy, lightweight
table with retractable wheels, you may want to look at that for ideas. He
uses 1/2 inch MDF for the top and "hollow door like construction" piece
under it for support. The best part is after the mdf gets messed up it is
easily replaced, protecting the table itself. You don't need the strength
to handle the weight Norm's does, so you can make things smaller.

MDF table top
 

Look at David Marks web site for his torsion table.

Grant



JEL wrote:


I know a sheet of 3/4" MDF would be better and that laminating two
3/4" MDF sheets would be best, but that sort of weight impacts the bit
about having to take it apart now and then; without a chain fall, that

New Yankee workshop has plans and a show on making a sturdy, lightweight
table with retractable wheels, you may want to look at that for ideas. He
uses 1/2 inch MDF for the top and "hollow door like construction" piece
under it for support. The best part is after the mdf gets messed up it is
easily replaced, protecting the table itself. You don't need the strength
to handle the weight Norm's does, so you can make things smaller.

MDF table top
 

make the top a 'torsion box'
it'll be lighter so you can move it around if you want, and it will be
flatter and stronger.

"Fred McClellan" wrote in message
...
Hi all . . .

I need to build a new model airplane building table; my old
hollow-core door lash-up finally sagged after a year's use.

The table needs to be dead flat. The way I build the model airplanes
is to top the table with a sheet of 1/2" foam building insulation, lay
the plans on the foam, cover the plans with waxed paper, and build the
various parts of the model directly over the plans. The foam
insulation sheet is so I use T-pins to hold the wood parts in place
during frame-up.

No need for drawers or storage; the table is strictly for building the
airframe.

There will never be any weight to speak of on the building bench,
other than the airframe, hand tools, bottle of Titebond, etc. Nothing
heavy at all; the model I'm working on now will weigh about 30 pounds
ready-to-fly. Finished models won't ever be placed on the building
table, only the major sub-assemblies like the right wing, left wing,
fuselage, or tail feathers.

I need the work surface to be 30" wide x 6' long to handle any model
I'll likely build in the near future.

The table has to come apart from time to time so I can regain floor
space for doing things like rigging the paint tent, checking the CG on
a completed model, etc. Which in turn means the building bench can't
be built like one would build a regular wood working bench, I gotts to
break it down and stash it in the corner from time to time.

The question is, using 1/2" MDF for the work surface, how much support
will be needed to insure it doesn't droop over time ?

I thought a pair of 2x6s length wise, 10" in from the front and rear
edge, a 2x4 frame with 2x4 legs, and I'm done.

Sound ok, or did I miss something ?

I know a sheet of 3/4" MDF would be better and that laminating two
3/4" MDF sheets would be best, but that sort of weight impacts the bit
about having to take it apart now and then; without a chain fall, that
is.

g
Cheers,
Fred McClellan
the dash plumber at mindspring dot com

MDF table top
 

[posted and mailed]

Fred McClellan wrote in
:

Hi all . . .

I need to build a new model airplane building table; my old
hollow-core door lash-up finally sagged after a year's use.

The table needs to be dead flat.

This is overkill for what you need, but it might give you ideas for making
a torsion box:

http://tinyurl.com/kcxf
http://www.diynet.com/DIY/episode/0,...K-409,FF.shtml

MDF table top
 

On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 05:22:33 GMT, "CW"
wrote:

That will work just fine. Use folding legs and tilt it up, fold the legs and
lean against a wall. Quick and easy.

Thought so. That's the way the main work bench is made, except with
hinges at the wall and removable front legs.

Thanx.

Cheers,
Fred McClellan
the dash plumber at mindspring dot com

MDF table top
 

On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 14:32:46 GMT, Patrick Fitzgerald
wrote:

[posted and mailed]

Fred McClellan wrote in
:

Hi all . . .

I need to build a new model airplane building table; my old
hollow-core door lash-up finally sagged after a year's use.

The table needs to be dead flat.

This is overkill for what you need, but it might give you ideas for making
a torsion box:

http://tinyurl.com/kcxf
http://www.diynet.com/DIY/episode/0,...K-409,FF.shtml


Yeah, it's prolly a bit on the weighty side, but I'll chew on making
it lighter one way or t'other.

Thanks for the links, although I suspect in the long run all you've
done is get me in more trouble with The Redhead Herself.

I mean, damn ! Lookit all the stuff to be built !
g
Cheers,
Fred McClellan
the dash plumber at mindspring dot com

MDF table top
 

On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 04:36:18 GMT, "Rob V"
wrote:

Ideally - do a torsoin box w/ 2 peices of 1/2 in MDF. (1 for the top and 1
for the bottom)

Better yet - do 1/2 melimine on top and mdf on the bottom w/ 1/2 mdf for
stretchers inside.



Yeah - found the links to the torsion box episodes.

Looks like The Building Table Du Jour, alright.

Just wondering how heavy that thing is, and whether I can rig a chain
fall to the rafters when it comes time to move it, without pulling the
roof down . . .
g
Cheers,
Fred McClellan
the dash plumber at mindspring dot com