What's the best way to mount adjustable shelves inside a wood cabinet?
The shelves were made from 3/4" birch plywood.

I was going to drill holes for shelf pins, with a jig made from peg
board. These would be the pins with a flat protrusion on which the
shelf rests. But then there's also the type of pin that's recessed into
the bottom of the shelf (I assume a router is used to cut out the
groove in the shelf bottom). This type would prevent the shelf from
moving laterally.

Another problem is that I made a stupid newbie mistake and cut the
shelves a bit too narrow for the space they're going into. I lined up
the saw on the wrong side of the line and the shelves are about 1/4"
too narrow (1/8" on either side). Will this affect the stability of the
pins or put excessive stress on the wood near each pin hole? if
something heavy is placed on the shelf? If so, is there a solution
besides cutting new shelves (there are only two, so it's not too big of
a deal). Maybe I can glue a 1/4" strip of wood to one side of each
shelf to widen it. Or maybe there's some kind of nylon or steel
spacer/extender that I can place in between the shelf edge and the
vertical member?

wrote in message
a deal). Maybe I can glue a 1/4" strip of wood to one side of each
shelf to widen it. Or maybe there's some kind of nylon or steel
spacer/extender that I can place in between the shelf edge and the
vertical member?

A strip of wood or just finish the shelve ends off with veneer stripping. If
you feel that you're still not adding enough for the mistake, you can veneer
them again.

In article . com,
wrote:
What's the best way to mount adjustable shelves inside a wood cabinet?
The shelves were made from 3/4" birch plywood.

I was going to drill holes for shelf pins, with a jig made from peg
board. These would be the pins with a flat protrusion on which the
shelf rests. But then there's also the type of pin that's recessed into
the bottom of the shelf (I assume a router is used to cut out the
groove in the shelf bottom). This type would prevent the shelf from
moving laterally.

Another problem is that I made a stupid newbie mistake and cut the
shelves a bit too narrow for the space they're going into. I lined up
the saw on the wrong side of the line and the shelves are about 1/4"
too narrow (1/8" on either side). Will this affect the stability of the
pins or put excessive stress on the wood near each pin hole? if
something heavy is placed on the shelf? If so, is there a solution
besides cutting new shelves (there are only two, so it's not too big of
a deal). Maybe I can glue a 1/4" strip of wood to one side of each
shelf to widen it. Or maybe there's some kind of nylon or steel
spacer/extender that I can place in between the shelf edge and the
vertical member?


Look for the style of pin that is an 'L' shape with the round pin
formed on the vertical leg of the 'L' Looks something like ' -L '
in cross section. The flat metal part is roughly 1/16" in thickness
so they will help take up some of the side to side play in your shelves
(Assuming that visually the shelves are OK with you. Remember when the
shelves are in use the gap may well be out of sight anyway. )
--
No dumb questions, just dumb answers.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland -

wrote:
What's the best way to mount adjustable shelves inside a wood cabinet?
The shelves were made from 3/4" birch plywood.

Best depends on mission...

Some methods:

Shelf pins work great in cabinetry and the holes aren't that intrusive.

Metal tracks are easiest to install and stronger than pins, but are very
visible and maybe considered a tad ugly. These are best left for
utility type stuff, like commercial shelving.

In finer furniture, I prefer to cut hardwood strips, drill 1" to 1 1/2"
holes, the actual size and spacing dependent on specifics, and rip the
strips in half. the strips are then glued to the inside corners of the
shelves. The strips are strong,are barely visible, and pretty if you
can actually see them.



I was going to drill holes for shelf pins, with a jig made from peg
board. These would be the pins with a flat protrusion on which the
shelf rests. But then there's also the type of pin that's recessed into
the bottom of the shelf (I assume a router is used to cut out the
groove in the shelf bottom). This type would prevent the shelf from
moving laterally.

Yup on all of that. The bottom groove can also be cut on a table saw
with a dado set.

Another problem is that I made a stupid newbie mistake and cut the
shelves a bit too narrow for the space they're going into. I lined up
the saw on the wrong side of the line and the shelves are about 1/4"
too narrow (1/8" on either side).
---
Maybe I can glue a 1/4" strip of wood to one side of each
shelf to widen it.

How about 1/8" on each side? Add a 1/8" strip, trim it nicely, and
you'd think it belongs there! G

Three 1/8" strip methods:

1.) Glue a 1/4" part to each end, and recut the shelf
2.) Rip off 1/8" strips and hand sand smooth with a wood sanding block
3.) Buy 1/8" thick "craft wood" in home centers or hobby shops.

Barry

On Wed, 03 Jan 2007 12:15:52 GMT, B A R R Y wrote:

wrote:
What's the best way to mount adjustable shelves inside a wood cabinet?
The shelves were made from 3/4" birch plywood.
.... snip
In finer furniture, I prefer to cut hardwood strips, drill 1" to 1 1/2"
holes, the actual size and spacing dependent on specifics, and rip the
strips in half. the strips are then glued to the inside corners of the
shelves. The strips are strong,are barely visible, and pretty if you
can actually see them.



Do you have a link or some pictures of that method? I'm having a hard
time visualizing it (probably too early in the morning), but this sounds
intriguing.

Thanks



+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

Another problem is that I made a stupid newbie mistake and cut the
shelves a bit too narrow for the space they're going into. I lined up
the saw on the wrong side of the line and the shelves are about 1/4"
too narrow (1/8" on either side). Will this affect the stability of the
pins or put excessive stress on the wood near each pin hole? if
something heavy is placed on the shelf? If so, is there a solution
besides cutting new shelves (there are only two, so it's not too big of
a deal). Maybe I can glue a 1/4" strip of wood to one side of each
shelf to widen it. Or maybe there's some kind of nylon or steel
spacer/extender that I can place in between the shelf edge and the
vertical member?

I have glued a 1/4" strip on when I made the same mistake. It was in a
place where it wouldn't be seen, or I would have replaced the shelf.

Properly you should cut your piece cross grain so it moves the same as
shelf; but if your house is airconditioned and humidified you can probably
get away with cutting with the grain, which would be rather stronger.

"Toller" wrote:


Another problem is that I made a stupid newbie mistake and cut the
shelves a bit too narrow for the space they're going into. I lined up
the saw on the wrong side of the line and the shelves are about 1/4"
too narrow (1/8" on either side). Will this affect the stability of the
pins or put excessive stress on the wood near each pin hole? if
something heavy is placed on the shelf? If so, is there a solution
besides cutting new shelves (there are only two, so it's not too big of
a deal). Maybe I can glue a 1/4" strip of wood to one side of each
shelf to widen it. Or maybe there's some kind of nylon or steel
spacer/extender that I can place in between the shelf edge and the
vertical member?

I have glued a 1/4" strip on when I made the same mistake. It was in a
place where it wouldn't be seen, or I would have replaced the shelf.

Properly you should cut your piece cross grain so it moves the same as
shelf; but if your house is airconditioned and humidified you can probably
get away with cutting with the grain, which would be rather stronger.

You forgot to quote this part of the OP's message: "The shelves were
made from 3/4" birch plywood." So better to rip the 1/4" strip.

--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

"alexy" wrote in message
...
"Toller" wrote:


Another problem is that I made a stupid newbie mistake and cut the
shelves a bit too narrow for the space they're going into. I lined up
the saw on the wrong side of the line and the shelves are about 1/4"
too narrow (1/8" on either side). Will this affect the stability of the
pins or put excessive stress on the wood near each pin hole? if
something heavy is placed on the shelf? If so, is there a solution
besides cutting new shelves (there are only two, so it's not too big of
a deal). Maybe I can glue a 1/4" strip of wood to one side of each
shelf to widen it. Or maybe there's some kind of nylon or steel
spacer/extender that I can place in between the shelf edge and the
vertical member?

I have glued a 1/4" strip on when I made the same mistake. It was in a
place where it wouldn't be seen, or I would have replaced the shelf.

Properly you should cut your piece cross grain so it moves the same as
shelf; but if your house is airconditioned and humidified you can probably
get away with cutting with the grain, which would be rather stronger.

You forgot to quote this part of the OP's message: "The shelves were
made from 3/4" birch plywood." So better to rip the 1/4" strip.

You are right! Sorry. And if he is putting veneer across the front, it
will somewhat hide the addition.

--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked
infrequently.

"Mark & Juanita" wrote in message
...
Do you have a link or some pictures of that method? I'm having a hard
time visualizing it (probably too early in the morning), but this sounds
intriguing.

Thanks


If you send a valid email address to I can sent a picture
of a bookshelf support strip that probably matches his description (will
remove books and the shelf to take the picture).....I inherited a 100yr old
bookshelf from my Grandmother that uses something similar....At least on
mine you have two strips center drilled then center ripped..now you have
four strips.... front and back on both the left and right sides of the
bookshelf get the strips. Make wood support bars with matching rounded ends
(to fit the half round holes).....Then each shelf has the corners notched to
fit around the original half strip.....a picture would be
clearerG...anyway its pretty sharp and very functional.....and the only
way I'll ever build adjustable shelves in the future...my last bookshelf I
use pins and holes but never again.... Rod

B A R R Y wrote:


In finer furniture, I prefer to cut hardwood strips, drill 1" to 1 1/2"
holes, the actual size and spacing dependent on specifics, and rip the
strips in half. the strips are then glued to the inside corners of the
shelves. The strips are strong,are barely visible, and pretty if you
can actually see them.

Trying to picture this. Do you then use a cleat with rounded ends
between these two strips, with shelves, notched for the strips,
resting on the cleats?
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

Mark & Juanita wrote:

Do you have a link or some pictures of that method? I'm having a hard
time visualizing it (probably too early in the morning), but this sounds
intriguing.

Unfortunately, I don't. I'll be glad to try to provide a clearer example.

For a 3/4" thick shelf:

- Make a to 3/8" thick strip of hardwood about 1 1/2" wide.
- Drill 3/4" holes down the center of the strip, spaced where you'd like
to provide shelf options. Say... 5" apart.
- Rip the strip in half
- Glue each half to the inside end of the case, with the "half holes"
facing each other and at the same level front to back.
- Cut the shelf to the inside width of the case, minus ONE strip
thickness (3/8")and a hair.

--- From here, we have two options ----

#1:
- Mark the ends of the shelves with the appropriate radius (3/4"), and
round 3/8" of each end to mate with the "half holes"
- Install "spring strips" made of brass, or any other springy metal to
approximately center the shelf. These have to be almost flush when
installing the shelf in the case. Loose hardwood wedges can also
perform this task
- Slip the shelf into one end, and carefully pop the other end in

#2
- Make 3/8" thick "crossmembers" that fit into the holes.
- Notch the ends of the shelves square to clear the rails.
- Add a thin strip to the bottom of each shelf to contain the crossmember

The shelves can be slid to one side, removed and reconfigured at will.

I got this idea from some antique "side-by-sides" (mini desk & cabinet)
I saw at an estate auction. The method is too time consuming for
cabinetry, but looks much better in fine furniture than metal pins and
holes.

On a side note, drilling a series of holes in a planed tubafour, then
ripping it down the center, makes a GREAT glue-up bed for pipe clamps

alexy wrote:
B A R R Y wrote:


In finer furniture, I prefer to cut hardwood strips, drill 1" to 1 1/2"
holes, the actual size and spacing dependent on specifics, and rip the
strips in half. the strips are then glued to the inside corners of the
shelves. The strips are strong,are barely visible, and pretty if you
can actually see them.

Trying to picture this. Do you then use a cleat with rounded ends
between these two strips, with shelves, notched for the strips,
resting on the cleats?

That's one way of hanging the shelf. I described the other in another
follow-up.

On Wed, 03 Jan 2007 19:08:06 GMT, B A R R Y wrote:

Mark & Juanita wrote:

Do you have a link or some pictures of that method? I'm having a hard
time visualizing it (probably too early in the morning), but this sounds
intriguing.

Unfortunately, I don't. I'll be glad to try to provide a clearer example.

For a 3/4" thick shelf:

- Make a to 3/8" thick strip of hardwood about 1 1/2" wide.
- Drill 3/4" holes down the center of the strip, spaced where you'd like
to provide shelf options. Say... 5" apart.
- Rip the strip in half
- Glue each half to the inside end of the case, with the "half holes"
facing each other and at the same level front to back.
- Cut the shelf to the inside width of the case, minus ONE strip
thickness (3/8")and a hair.

--- From here, we have two options ----

#1:
- Mark the ends of the shelves with the appropriate radius (3/4"), and
round 3/8" of each end to mate with the "half holes"
- Install "spring strips" made of brass, or any other springy metal to
approximately center the shelf. These have to be almost flush when
installing the shelf in the case. Loose hardwood wedges can also
perform this task
- Slip the shelf into one end, and carefully pop the other end in

#2
- Make 3/8" thick "crossmembers" that fit into the holes.
- Notch the ends of the shelves square to clear the rails.
- Add a thin strip to the bottom of each shelf to contain the crossmember

The shelves can be slid to one side, removed and reconfigured at will.
... snip


Thanks. That's much clearer. Also, thanks to Rod & Betty Jo for the
offer to provide a picture (e-mail on the way).



+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 3 Jan 2007 08:46:57 -0800, "Rod & Betty Jo"
wrote:

That's exactly what I'm talkin' about!!!

Just for grins, do you happen to know what area the bookshelf
originated from? The items I've seen this on in my area seem to be
local, southern New England items. I've not seen the method in any
books, so I wonder how often it was used.

Once you've seen it, pins look really, really bad. Once you've done
it once... G

She passed away nearly 30 years ago so I can't ask but I would expect
Indiana.....At least that is where she was raised, first set up house and
where her piano was built. The bookshelf itself is a interesting piece, just
enough detail to make it unique and either the glue failedg or it is held
together with just joinery since it can be pretty much disassembled board by
board ( haven't moved it for at least 20 years)....It was apparently built
for a corner (or it is half of a matching bookshelf) since one side is flat
where-as the other is not....Not sure of the wood (fairly dark stain and
probably darker with age) but the face frame has a very nice grain pattern,
maybe a walnut something?....eventually I'd like to build a copy including
the joinery. Rod