A couple of years ago I bought a Woodpeck PRL 621 Router Lift. It's a long
story but I got injured and haven't cut any wood for years. Tonight I
pulled out a new lock miter bit and started working on a project. I cut
"side A" with no problem (stock flat on the table). I went to cut side "B"
(stock vertical) and ran into big trouble. After a lot of trial and a lot
of error I noticed that the router lift was moving downward when I ran the
stock through. It doesn't move when the router is on (no stock going
throug) but the vibration of putting stock through makes the lift drop down
as the cut is made. Obviously this is not acceptable. How do I go about
fixing this? Did I get a bad router lift? Can it be corrected? How?

Ben Darby wrote:
It doesn't move when the router is on (no stock going
throug) but the vibration of putting stock through makes the lift drop down
as the cut is made. Obviously this is not acceptable. How do I go about
fixing this? Did I get a bad router lift? Can it be corrected? How?

I was always under the impression that no matter which router
thingamajig you used, you still had to set the shaft lock so the router
couldn't go up and down. Is the routerlift different?

I haven't seen one of these so don't know how it works but, according to the
website, it is supposed to have an automatic brake. Sounds like it is not
working. Suggest you call the manufacturer.

"Ben Darby" wrote in message
...
A couple of years ago I bought a Woodpeck PRL 621 Router Lift. It's a
long
story but I got injured and haven't cut any wood for years. Tonight I
pulled out a new lock miter bit and started working on a project. I cut
"side A" with no problem (stock flat on the table). I went to cut side
"B"
(stock vertical) and ran into big trouble. After a lot of trial and a lot
of error I noticed that the router lift was moving downward when I ran the
stock through. It doesn't move when the router is on (no stock going
throug) but the vibration of putting stock through makes the lift drop
down
as the cut is made. Obviously this is not acceptable. How do I go about
fixing this? Did I get a bad router lift? Can it be corrected? How?

I have the "Plungelift" model (http://www.woodpeck.com/plungelift.html)
which just has 1 leadscrew. It doesn't have a lock of any kind for the
height adjustment. I stayed up late working on this problem and ended up
taking the lead screw assembly apart. It's not very impressive but it does
get the job done I suppose. I found that I could tighten the adjustment
screw to change the amount of friction on it. Friction is the only thing
holding the lead screw in place when you route. I can't seem to find a
happy medium between being too tight and too loose. I went for more on the
tight side to be safe. That makes it hard to adjust long distances

What I'd like to know is if anyone else has this router lift and how it's
worked out for you. Any issues?

I think it's really sturdy and well made but would like to see some sort of
locking mechanism on the lead screw.

The router has a plunge lock, right? Use it.

"Ben Darby" wrote in message
...
I have the "Plungelift" model (http://www.woodpeck.com/plungelift.html)
which just has 1 leadscrew. It doesn't have a lock of any kind for the
height adjustment. I stayed up late working on this problem and ended up
taking the lead screw assembly apart. It's not very impressive but it
does
get the job done I suppose. I found that I could tighten the adjustment
screw to change the amount of friction on it. Friction is the only thing
holding the lead screw in place when you route. I can't seem to find a
happy medium between being too tight and too loose. I went for more on
the
tight side to be safe. That makes it hard to adjust long distances

What I'd like to know is if anyone else has this router lift and how it's
worked out for you. Any issues?

I think it's really sturdy and well made but would like to see some sort
of
locking mechanism on the lead screw.