A couple of times I've seen Norm (genuflect) give a project a coat or
two of finishing oil and THEN suggest that a couple coats of
polyurethane on top of that wouldn't go amiss. Somehow that just
doesn't seem very right, but I don't know why. Of course he tends to
coat almost EVERYTHING with poly. I think he gets off on the vapors.

FoggyTown

One of his heavy sponsors is PARKS, three guesses what they make.
Dave

"Dave W" wrote in message
...
One of his heavy sponsors is PARKS, three guesses what they make.
Dave


Thinner, Thinner, Thinner?

I suspect he is using MinWax for the finishes.

"FoggyTown" wrote in message
oups.com...
A couple of times I've seen Norm (genuflect) give a project a coat or
two of finishing oil and THEN suggest that a couple coats of
polyurethane on top of that wouldn't go amiss. Somehow that just
doesn't seem very right, but I don't know why. Of course he tends to
coat almost EVERYTHING with poly. I think he gets off on the vapors.

Never watched Norm, but I do it occasionally on butternut or some other
woods that respond really well to BLO. Unfortunately BLO does almost
nothing to protect the wood, so I will put pu over the oil.

"FoggyTown" wrote in message
oups.com...
A couple of times I've seen Norm (genuflect) give a project a coat or
two of finishing oil and THEN suggest that a couple coats of
polyurethane on top of that wouldn't go amiss. Somehow that just
doesn't seem very right, but I don't know why. Of course he tends to
coat almost EVERYTHING with poly. I think he gets off on the vapors.

FoggyTown


The oil is fine for a finish as long as you are very careful not to spill or
scratch the surface. The poly is stronger protection.

On Thu, 23 Nov 2006 13:50:57 +0000, Leon wrote:

"Dave W" wrote in message
...
One of his heavy sponsors is PARKS, three guesses what they make.
Dave


Thinner, Thinner, Thinner?

I suspect he is using MinWax for the finishes.

Actually Parks is a division of Zinnser, which sells several polyurethane
finishes under the "Parks" brand. But I doubt that that's why he uses it.


--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

B A R R Y wrote:

A very common, classic finish on white oak is a rubbing with BLO,
followed by sprayed nitrocellulose lacquer. Sitckley calls it
"Limestone Oak."

I stumbled into finishing white oak with BLO.

Very happy with results.

Rather than use something like poly, lacquer or shellac, used bees wax
cut 1:1 with turps over the BLO.

IMHO, looks quite nice; however, piece is in a home occupied by adults
and will not be exposed to tough duty.


Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
B A R R Y wrote:

A very common, classic finish on white oak is a rubbing with BLO,
followed by sprayed nitrocellulose lacquer. Sitckley calls it
"Limestone Oak."

I stumbled into finishing white oak with BLO.

Very happy with results.

Rather than use something like poly, lacquer or shellac, used bees wax
cut 1:1 with turps over the BLO.

IMHO, looks quite nice; however, piece is in a home occupied by adults
and will not be exposed to tough duty.


Lew

Sorry - what's BLO? I know tung, danish, blends.

FoggyTown

I think it was "FoggyTown" who stated:


Sorry - what's BLO? I know tung, danish, blends.

Boiled Linseed Oil

No need to be sorry . . . TLAs and ETLAs can take some getting used
to; I know, I've worked for IBM thirty years . . . .

Don
--
"What do *you* care what other people think?" --Arline Feynman

Don Fearn wrote:
I think it was "FoggyTown" who stated:


Sorry - what's BLO? I know tung, danish, blends.

Boiled Linseed Oil

No need to be sorry . . . TLAs and ETLAs can take some getting used
to; I know, I've worked for IBM thirty years . . . .

Don
--

TLAs? ETLAs? IBM?

FoggyTown

I think it was "FoggyTown" who stated:


Don Fearn wrote:
I think it was "FoggyTown" who stated:


Sorry - what's BLO? I know tung, danish, blends.

Boiled Linseed Oil

No need to be sorry . . . TLAs and ETLAs can take some getting used
to; I know, I've worked for IBM thirty years . . . .

Don
--

TLAs? ETLAs? IBM?

TLA = Three Letter Acronym (like "IBM" ;^)

ETLA = Extended TLA, where three aren't enough.

In my years at IBM, I actually ran into nested TLAs where one or more
of the letters stood for another TLA and sometimes the nesting went
three levels. I can't think of any examples; this whole topic is
making my brain hurt.

-Don
--
"What do *you* care what other people think?" --Arline Feynman

Don Fearn wrote:

: TLA = Three Letter Acronym (like "IBM" ;^)

: ETLA = Extended TLA, where three aren't enough.

: In my years at IBM, I actually ran into nested TLAs where one or more
: of the letters stood for another TLA and sometimes the nesting went
: three levels. I can't think of any examples; this whole topic is
: making my brain hurt.


I'd be interested in seeing some of those.


There's also recursive acronyms, where one of the letters
stands for the overall acronym, e.g., SAAB (Saab Automobile
Aktiebolaget), and VISA (VISA International Service Association).


And there's a type I don't know the name of, but where one
of the words represented in the acronym appears elsewhere in the
overall term. ADAP (a chain of East Coast auto parts
dealers) was originally American Discount Auto Parts,
but was later renamed ADAp Discount Auto Parts.

-- Andy Barss

Andrew Barss (in ) said:

| And there's a type I don't know the name of, but where one
| of the words represented in the acronym appears elsewhere in the
| overall term. ADAP (a chain of East Coast auto parts
| dealers) was originally American Discount Auto Parts,
| but was later renamed ADAp Discount Auto Parts.

Linux is not unix :-)

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

FoggyTown wrote:

A couple of times I've seen Norm (genuflect) give a project a coat or
two of finishing oil and THEN suggest that a couple coats of
polyurethane on top of that wouldn't go amiss.

Don't take Norm's advice on _anything_ to do with finishing.

That said, many variations of "shellac over oil" are well-established
and sensible techniques. Using yucky poly instead maybe not so much...

Andrew Barss wrote:

There's also recursive acronyms, where one of the letters
stands for the overall acronym, e.g., SAAB (Saab Automobile
Aktiebolaget), and VISA (VISA International Service Association).

GNU is Not Unix :-).

--
It's turtles, all the way down

Amen to that Barry!
I had rubbed down a dried linseed finish with quad fine steel wool, blown
it off & applied a thin final coat. I wrapped the steel wool pad in the
cloth & left it to dry, thank goodness, on the outdoor cement patio. You
guessed it in the morning there lied the blackened debris. The steel wool
acting as a catalyst.
BCinBC
"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 23 Nov 2006 13:23:11 -0600, Don Fearn
wrote:


Boiled Linseed Oil

It's cheap too, available at any hardware or paint store, and home
centers, at ~ $5/qt or $11/gal. Do not be swayed by boutique brands
of boiled linseed oil.

DO lay rags flat to dry, hang them in open air, or drop them in a
bucket of water. This is the stuff your shop teacher warned you about
when he mentioned "spontaneous combustion", and he wasn't kidding.

"B Crawford" wrote in
newskEjh.97919$hn.60156@edtnps82:

Amen to that Barry!
I had rubbed down a dried linseed finish with quad fine steel wool,
blown
it off & applied a thin final coat. I wrapped the steel wool pad in
the cloth & left it to dry, thank goodness, on the outdoor cement
patio. You guessed it in the morning there lied the blackened debris.
The steel wool acting as a catalyst.
BCinBC

Well, the steel wool was actually a fuel, too. We used it frequently in
my younger days as a campfire starter, with a wooden match.

Patriarch

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 23 Nov 2006 13:23:11 -0600, Don Fearn
wrote:


Boiled Linseed Oil

It's cheap too, available at any hardware or paint store, and home
centers, at ~ $5/qt or $11/gal. Do not be swayed by boutique brands
of boiled linseed oil.

DO lay rags flat to dry, hang them in open air, or drop them in a
bucket of water. This is the stuff your shop teacher warned you
about when he mentioned "spontaneous combustion", and he wasn't
kidding.

Patriarch wrote:

Well, the steel wool was actually a fuel, too. We used it frequently in
my younger days as a campfire starter, with a wooden match.

I avoid steel wool like it was the plague.

If you use it outside, you are almost guaranteed to have some of the
residue turn into rust spots.

Much prefer either bronze wool of a 3M pot scrubber.

Lew

I want to design a garage/workshop about 24'x30'. It will have a slab
on grade, It will have a 10'x10' bay door. Otherwise it would be a
very basic platform build with 10ft ceiling, trusses with 3:12. I
will design the trusses for our local snow loads.

Has anybody got an autocad compatible digital design that I could use
for a starting point? Reasonable price paid.

tbuckley^canada.com
^ = @