I misread something in the Finch book about this, and realize there's
nothing in there whatsoever about applying a finish to the plane.

Is it just not done? I can understand that, because an oil might affect
the wood being planed, and a shellac or lacquer would wear off the sole
eventually anyway.

What about tung oil? Or (polymerized) linseed oil? What about paste
wax, seems like that would be a win?

Now I've done this, I can appreciate the beauty of the Knight planes and
I'm teetering on the edge of getting one. Just have to overcome an
inherent resistance to significant purchases, but when I do one of those
jointers with a japanese blade is mine.

er
--
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Is it just not done? I can understand that, because an oil might affect
the wood being planed, and a shellac or lacquer would wear off the sole
eventually anyway.

What about tung oil? Or (polymerized) linseed oil? What about paste
wax, seems like that would be a win?

Now I've done this, I can appreciate the beauty of the Knight planes and
I'm teetering on the edge of getting one. Just have to overcome an
inherent resistance to significant purchases, but when I do one of those
jointers with a japanese blade is mine.

finish on a plane is more to keep the wood from getting grungy and
make it look/feel nice. no finish on the sole but wax. oil and wax is
a good combo. I found this cool oil/wax mix that makes a good finish.
but at 28.00 a quart it is not practical for just a tool.

Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes

Steve knight wrote:
Is it just not done? I can understand that, because an oil might affect
the wood being planed, and a shellac or lacquer would wear off the sole
eventually anyway.

What about tung oil? Or (polymerized) linseed oil? What about paste
wax, seems like that would be a win?

Now I've done this, I can appreciate the beauty of the Knight planes and
I'm teetering on the edge of getting one. Just have to overcome an
inherent resistance to significant purchases, but when I do one of those
jointers with a japanese blade is mine.


finish on a plane is more to keep the wood from getting grungy and
make it look/feel nice. no finish on the sole but wax. oil and wax is
a good combo. I found this cool oil/wax mix that makes a good finish.
but at 28.00 a quart it is not practical for just a tool.

Hey, Thanks...

I have tung oil and paste wax. I'll try that.

er
--
email not valid

Steve knight wrote:

finish on a plane is more to keep the wood from getting grungy and
make it look/feel nice. no finish on the sole but wax. oil and wax is
a good combo. I found this cool oil/wax mix that makes a good finish.
but at 28.00 a quart it is not practical for just a tool.

Hmm, I have linseed oil and a beeswax stick. Dissolving the beeswax in
the linseed oil sounds tasty and would make a nice smelling plane.

er
--
email not valid

Here's a list of recipes I collected from the 'net, for different finishes and greases,
If you have a local farmer's market, you can buy beeswax from the honey sellers.
you may want to copy and paste into a notepad or print it... though it still hasn't
been organised.

These were my search terms, I still got several finishing solutions as well:

"Beeswax as a lubricant"

"Beeswax as a lubricant for metal"

"Beeswax as a grease for metal"

"Beeswax used as grease"

"Beeswax formula for grease"

"Beeswax grease formula"

"uses for Beeswax"
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
One way to clean beeswax is to filter it using charcoal, diatomaceous earth,
and clay. Another way to clean (not quite as thorough) is to strain the melted
wax with cheesecloth, hosiery, or better yet, an old sweatshirt, fleece side up.
No bleach is used in Lumina's beeswax.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dear Cole Hardware,
Your hardware 'Tips' page is very informative. Reading your Beeswax
as a lubricant brought to mind a variation I've used for years.
If pure beeswax is too viscous (heavy) for a particular use try 50%
beeswax melted together with 50% motor oil. The best weathering oil
I've found for outdoor use is "Automotive Refrigeration Oil" available
at auto-supply stores. It's a high purity, high temperature oil that is very
clear and about #30 weight.
Heat oil in a double boiler (over a hot water bath ... not an open flame)
then add beeswax. Stir till melted then pour into a container like a tuna can
and allow to harden. It hardens to the consistency and texture of shoe
polish.
It makes a thin grease with very high film strength and it STAYS where
you put it. Perfect for low-speed, high load applications such as gate
hinges, hand tools joints (pliers, hedge clippers, etc). It appears to last
much longer than conventional greases when used outdoors. It's hard to
"flow" into a narrow joint, so the tool, hinge, etc should be first warmed
slightly (and carefully) with a propane torch, hair drier, etc. -MikeH via e-mail
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Basic Paste Polish
10oz. Beeswax
1 pint Solvent (turpentine or white spirit)

This simple blend makes an easy to use paste polish for furniture. The
quantity of solvent can be varied to produce polishes of different consistencies;
less solvent will make a firmer polish. Melt the wax and slowly raise the
temperature to about 160F. Heat the solvent to a similar temperature and then
blend it with the melted wax. Carefully pour the mixture into a container, leave
to cool and set, then close the container securely.
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Artists' Varnish

3 parts in volume of finest turpentine spirit
1 part in volume of pure bleached beeswax.

Heat the wax and turpentine to 160 degrees F. Mix thoroughly until cool. Wax
varnish has a beautiful non-glossy sheen. It is easy to remove from a painting
or plaque without damaging the paint, though it yellows a little faster then most
other varnishes so you will have to clean your painting sooner (after ten to
fifteen years). However, it gives a period effect that is hard to duplicate with
modern materials.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Basic Beeswax Wood Polish

1-1/2 parts Turpentine or white spirits
1 part Beeswax

Heat the wax to 160 degrees F. Heat the solvent to 160 degrees and add to
the wax. Mix until cool, then transfer to final containers.
The ratio of solvent to beeswax determines whether this is a paste wax or a
liquid polish. Other ingredients are often added such as pigments, lemon oil,
linseed oil, or tung oil. More volatile solvents such as naptha aare also added
or substituted to make a faster-drying, thinner polish Carnauba wax is often
added to make a harder, shinier finish.
Classically, on "raw" wood the paste polish is applied warm, so the turpentine
soaks into the pores of the wood and pulls some beeswax with it. Excess polish
is brushed or scraped off. When dry, the resultant wax film is polished with brisk
rubbing. This beeswax and turpentine polish may be "renewed" many times by
brisk polishing. When more wax is finally necessary, though, it is best to remove
as much of the old wax as possible before applying more polish. Old wax will
often "gum up" and make polishing more difficult.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Beeswax makes a superior polish for wood and leather. For recipes calling for
shredded wax, grate the wax into shavings with a cheese/vegetable grater.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Leather Dressing

5-6 oz. Beeswax
8 oz. tallow
8 oz. neatsfoot oil

This is not a polish. It is a lotion that conditions and waterproofs smooth leather
superbly. Heat ingredients together to 160 degrees F. Mix thoroughly and pour
into containers.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~Roughly equal parts of beeswax and olive oil melted together is all that has
been needed for centuries to make a salve that helps prevent and heal chapping
and rough skin. Olive oil has been mixed with beeswax for centuries, and is good
for dry skin that needs to be softened. In modern times odorless/colorless
mineral oil has been mixed with beeswax to make a soft, flexible coating that is
not absorbed by the skin and repels water yet is removed easily with soap and
water.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gun Grease
First, I have to give you the standard warning. All the ingredients are flammable.
You can get burned making this stuff. Under the right circumstances you could
burn down the house, as well as getting an "owie". The following directions are
for information only - not to be followed. If you disregard this warning, don't call
me with any sad stories about how it came out, how poorly it worked for you or
how it ruined your gun, your wife left you or the dog got the runs after eating your
years supply. You have been warned!

First I decide whither it is going to be winter or summer Gun Grease. Then I
decide just how hot or cold it is going to be. I'm always wrong, so I just follow
the rule of thumb. For midsummer, use the whole ingot of beeswax. For spring
or fall, 3/4 will do, while only half is needed for winter grease. Whack the ingot
into the chosen size.
Put the coffee can on the stove on a low to medium fire. Those that are real
careful might make a double boiler using a 3 pound coffee can about a quarter
full of water, instead of just working directly on the burner. (You're not really
doing this, are you? I told you not too!)
Dump in all the Crisco, then add the beeswax. Watch it melt. The wax will
melt slower than the Crisco. Stir the stuff until the wax is melted and mixed well
with the Crisco. Add a dollop of Olive Oil. (About an inch out of a 8-1/2 oz bottle)
Turn off the heat and stir until everything is well mixed. Pour into molds or
whatever you are planning to store it in.
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Outdoor finish
I cannot give exact proportions of the ingredients, but it goes something like this:
1 lb beeswax
1 cup diesel oil
3/4 cup linseed oil
1/4 cup carbolineum

Procedu
heat diesel oil and linseed oil adding beeswax scales or small píeces to aid
melting. Add carbolineum to obtain dark wax if desired. When mixture is
blended and wax melted, put a feww drops on cold metal pan or can lid. When
cold, try for appropriate texture by rubbing between fingers. The right
consistency should be like that of light grease, not paste. If finger test shows
too thick, add some linseed or diesel and test again. If finger test shows too
runny, add some wax and test again. Once the right texture is achieved, let cool.
Application:
using clean cloth (old socks are perfect)spread light coat of wax over surface
and rub until smooth and non tacky. Wood will acquire fine lustre as more
rubbings are applied. In my experience, even dark wax with carbolineum
(a messy, guey stuff)will not stain after proper rubbing. Making wax too thick will
leave surface tacky, sticky, and impossible to polish.
For outdoor window frames and moldings, this wax is great. It could even be
made so thin and runny that application with a brush is easier. Always wipe off
excess as thick coats will remain sticky and collect dirt.
Keep wax in air tight container to prevent solvent evaporation.
Warning: only raw wood should be polished with wax, because wood fibers
will absorb the solvents. If varnished surfaces are waxed, the result is not at all
the same.
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I like to melt beeswax and Vaseline together. Add the Vaseline until it is the
consistency you want when you let it harden. It makes good lip balm, boot
treatment (to waterproof and polish oil tanned leather boots) and anything else
you want to oil and polish. I've also done it with neetsfoot oil instead of Vaseline
for leather and it worked fine, but no better than the Vaseline does.
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The list of commonly used bullets lubes over the years is interesting:
US Army 1855 - 1 part beeswax, 3 parts tallow
US Army 1861 - 8 parts beeswax, 1 part tallow
US Army 1873 - 8 parts bayberry wax, 1 part graphite
US Army 1880 - Japan wax
Sharps Rifle Co. 1878 - 1 part beeswax, 2 parts sperm oil.
Maynard Rifle 1890 - 1 part beeswax, 3 parts tallow
Marlin Firearms Co. 1891 - 1 part beeswax, 4 parts tallow
S&W 1891 - tallow
H.M. Pope 1900 - 3 parts mutton tallow, 2 parts bay wax, 1 part beeswax, 1 part
steam cylinder oil, .2 of 1 part Acheson graphite. (The bay wax can be omitted)
A large Police Dept. 1962 - 1 part beeswax, 1 part paraffin wax, 1 part cosmoline.
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Beeswax Furniture Polish
Beeswax has been used in furniture polish for centuries, and you can use it to
make some yourself.
Ingredients:
1/4 cup of liquid soap (not dish detergent)
1/4 lb grated beeswax
1/2 cup hot water
1 cup turpentine
Procedu
Dissolve the soap in the water and keep it warm (a minute or so in the microwave
will re-warm it, if required).
Melt the beeswax and turpentine together in a double boiler.
Slowly pour the soap mixture into the wax mixture, stirring constantly until the
mixture is thickened and slightly cooled. Pour into wide-mouthed jars and seal
with a lid once thoroughly cooled.
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Leather Waterproofer
This beeswax based water proofer is perfect for protecting leather shoes and
boots (not suede!) from water damage.
Ingredients:
2 parts (by weight) beeswax
1 part tallow or mutton fat (mutton preferred)
Procedu
Melt ingredients together in a double boiler and pour into wide-mouthed jar or
tin and let cool.
To use, rub the results (when they are cool) into leather and leave for 8 to 12
hours, then buff with a soft cloth.
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A metal preservative
Screws, nails, or metal parts will not rust readily if immersed in molten beeswax
and left until the temperature of the metal reaches that of the molten wax. The
metal will absorb some of the wax and become rust resistant. For this to work,
it is important for the metal to remain in the molten wax long enough to attain
the proper temperature. Otherwise there will be only a surface coating of wax
which will wear of quickly.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A metal polish
To make a protective coating and polish for metal, mix turpentine (8 parts),
beeswax (1 part),and boiled linseed oil (1/2 part)*. This mixture also makes a
good lubricant for saw blades and tablesaw tops.
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A wood polish
There are various proportions of beeswax with boiled linseed oil and/or
turpentine that make a good polish. It may take some experimentation to find
a consistency that you like. To make a paste, mix 1 part beeswax, 2 parts
turpentine, and 2 parts linseed oil. A larger proportion of beeswax will make a
mixture that is stiffer, perhaps too stiff.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Working Safely with Beeswax, before you melt your first block of beeswax
you should be aware of the
following:
Beeswax does not boil - it just gets hotter and hotter until it ignites.
Beeswax, like other waxes, is flammable and will ignite if it reaches a high
enough temperature. The safest way to melt it is to use a double boiler, or
set it in a pot inside a pot of water. Don't melt it in the microwave; the uneven
heating can result in areas in the wax hot enough to catch fire. Do not place a
pot of beeswax directly on the stove.
One approach that works very well is to use an old crock pot or deep fryer
(often available at second hand stores) as your heat source. Put some water
into it, set it to a temperature below the boiling point of water, and set a clean
juice can of wax in the water. Using one of these small appliances allows you
to do your work away from the kitchen if you wish to, and eliminates the risk
of starting a fire by dripping wax on a hot stove element.
Melted beeswax is hot and will burn skin if it comes in contact. It is a good
idea to use oven mitts when pouring or stirring the wax.
Large pieces of wax will melt from the bottom up, and the melted wax will
expand. Molten wax can "errupt" from a pot of what looks like solid wax. Keep
a distance away from the pot until there is melted wax on the top of the mass.
To measure a small amount of unmelted wax, grate it or scrape it off the
block of wax with a knife to obtain the amount you need.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Removing Beeswax Spills
Okay, so you took all the usual precautions but somehow you've gotten wax
on your clothes or carpet. Now what? Here are a few tips that may help:
Use Cold
Your first step, whenever possible, should be to put it into the freezer. This
helps in two different ways:
Frozen beeswax is brittle, and flexing fabric with beeswax on and in it after
freezing the garment will often cause much of the wax to crumble away.
Beeswax shrinks when it gets cold. This can cause it to pull awat from
inflexible surfaces. This is also why putting a candle holder in the freezer can
be a great way to get the remains of a candle out of your favourite candle holder.
Use Heat If the cold approach leaves some wax or if it cannot be used, the next
step is to use heat. Before you apply any heat though, carefully remove any
surface wax that you can so that the heat does not simply melt the wax into
whatever it is on.
When that is done, place something absorbant (paper towels, an old t-shirt
that you don't care about anymore, etc.) over the stain and apply heat using a
hair drier or an iron. As the wax melts some of it should soak into your absorbent
material. Move to a clean spot and do it again. Repeat for as many times as you
can still get some wax into it.

....hope this helps,

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

AAvK wrote:
Here's a list of recipes I collected from the 'net, for different finishes and greases,
If you have a local farmer's market, you can buy beeswax from the honey sellers.
you may want to copy and paste into a notepad or print it... though it still hasn't
been organised.

[Big snip of things piped through /bin/cat into a file for future reference]

Wow, thanks. I knew there was a reason I got this stick. I was in a
bead store with LOML getting pliers, fretsaw blades, and ogling the
venetian glass. I saw a (large) stick of beeswax and missed the smell
and sound of crouching next to the hives watching the little buggers work.

Happy Soltice

er
--
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