"TD" wrote in message
...
For some very bad reasons my table saw table has been neglected for a
couple of years. As a result it is rusted in spots.
What is the best way to get it back in top shape?
Steel wool? Sand paper? or some other neat trick.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Tom


I just gave my Powermatic 65 a good going over with WD-40 and a ROS with 220
grit paper. Looks like a million bucks. Finish up with paste wax.

TD wrote:

For some very bad reasons my table saw table has been neglected for a
couple of years. As a result it is rusted in spots.
What is the best way to get it back in top shape?
Steel wool? Sand paper? or some other neat trick.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Tom

Kind'a hard to say, depends on the rust, how deep it is. Wool or paper
will work but start high and if it doesn't work go a little lower. The
lower you go the deeper the scratch marks in the top. If you have to get
down to 220 or 180 grit you may want buff out some of the scratches with
finer grits.

Finish with wax and buff.

Kevin

On Sat, 12 Jul 2003 14:21:56 -0700, TD Crawled
out of the shop and said. . .:

For some very bad reasons my table saw table has been neglected for a
couple of years. As a result it is rusted in spots.
What is the best way to get it back in top shape?
Steel wool? Sand paper? or some other neat trick.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Tom


That depends greatly on the saw itself

if its a Craftsman, WD-40 and a scotch-brite pad, followed by JPW.

if its a Unisaw, its a lost cause, and should be sent to me to be
properly destroyed

Traves

[posted and mailed]

TD wrote in :

For some very bad reasons my table saw table has been neglected for a
couple of years. As a result it is rusted in spots.
What is the best way to get it back in top shape?

I tried several methods, but found that the best was to use an "abrasive
block". Very fast at removing the rust, doesn't damage the table, plus you
can use to maintain the table in the future. You can get a set of three
from Highland Hardware for $15 (www.highlandhardware.com, search for "rust
eraser"). When the table is clean use your choice of protectants - Top-Cote
spray, paste wax, etc.

Here's the description from the website:

Silicon carbide abrasive mixed throughout each rubbery Rust Eraser block
scrubs rust, corrosion or tarnish off any metal in a hurry and leaves a
beautiful polish. The resilient consistency of the 3" x 2" x 3/4" blocks
lets them mold themselves to fit contoured surfaces, and cushions so that
even 60 grit won't cause deep scratches. These are the fastest, most cost-
effective hand tools we know of for eliminating rust and stains on tools,
rules, clamps & hardware. Set includes one each of Coarse (60 grit), Medium
(120 grit) and Fine (240 grit) Rust Erasers.

I just want to say thanks for all your suggestions.
Your input was very helpful.
Thanks Tom

The "wipe on poly" would be so thin that you would scratch off most of
the protection after one session on the saw. Cleaning the resulting mess
would be too horrible for words.

Stick with TopCote and never look back...

Friends don't let friends use poly....

David Dube wrote:

This may be a silly question... what's the downside of using a wipe on polyurethane?
That should keep the moisture out for a long time... no? A coat of wipe on wouldn't be
too thick either... there must be a good reason why not to do this... was hoping someone
could educate me...