You aren't going to touch HSS with a file. All you will do is produce a
shiny spot and dull the file. A cutting tool has to be harder than what it
is cutting. do you use wooden chisels?
"Gerald Ross" wrote in message
...
At first I thought about easing a file into the bit while turning, but
that scared me. I would instead chuck the bit and using a protective
surface on the bottom of the router and file a notch, turn the bit 180
degrees and repeat. Then change the bit height and do it again until
all the desired notches are in. This would dull that spot so not sure
how well it would cut wood.

Igor wrote:

I am looking for a source for a steel v-groove router bit. 1/4" shank,
60 degree
angle, 1/2" diameter.

I want HS steel instead of carbide because I want to deface the cutting
edges so that
the groove has a rough finish, not smooth. I called MLCS and they very
kindly,
helpfully told me that I cannot do this to their carbide bits -- carbide
pieces would
break off.

BTW, also welcome would be suggestions as to how to best deface the bit.
The result
I am trying to get is a great number of "steps" -- as if, instead of a
bevel, there
were steps that were each maybe 1/128" high and deep. (_As if_, not
actually; I
don't plan to make exactly that many cuts or space them that carefully.)
Any other
idea as to how to achieve this result would be welcome. A challenge is
that this
ribbed bevel needs to be at the bottom of a straight 7/8" deep channel.

Thanks for any help.

--

Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
...........................................
I'm an influential person,
gravitationally speaking.


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On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 00:47:24 GMT, "CW" wrote:

Buy a carbide bit of the V profile you want. Draw up the modifications you
want done. Take it to a tool grinder (a real one that does tools for machine
shops, not your local saw shop). They will grind any profile you want and it
will not chip.

That is a very interesting approach. I realized that I have this old Craftsman
(sorry for the spelling) moulding head that holds three blades/knives. It would
work, in theory -- it is would cut deep enough, unlike a standard setup on a bench
shaper. Maybe I could have knives made for it rather than altering the router bit.
Do I look for "Tool Grinders" in the Yellow Pages? Or, does anyone know of an
on-line or mail order source for such a thing? I have detailed CAD/dxf drawings of
profile.

Thanks.

The molding head would be the best choice. For that type of profile, it is
far more efficient. Yes, look in the Yellow Pages under "grinding, tool and
cutter".
"Igor" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 00:47:24 GMT, "CW" wrote:

Buy a carbide bit of the V profile you want. Draw up the modifications
you
want done. Take it to a tool grinder (a real one that does tools for
machine
shops, not your local saw shop). They will grind any profile you want and
it
will not chip.

That is a very interesting approach. I realized that I have this old
Craftsman
(sorry for the spelling) moulding head that holds three blades/knives. It
would
work, in theory -- it is would cut deep enough, unlike a standard setup on
a bench
shaper. Maybe I could have knives made for it rather than altering the
router bit.
Do I look for "Tool Grinders" in the Yellow Pages? Or, does anyone know
of an
on-line or mail order source for such a thing? I have detailed CAD/dxf
drawings of
profile.

Thanks.

On Sat, 12 Jul 2003 00:19:06 GMT, "CW" wrote:

The molding head would be the best choice. For that type of profile, it is
far more efficient. Yes, look in the Yellow Pages under "grinding, tool and
cutter".

No luck in the Yellw Pages but having some luck at Thomas Register. I think. Not
100% sure if the companies I am finding are right, but I'll check on Monday. Thanks.

BTW, I also found a company that makes "roughers" and burrs, or some such.
http://www.midwestcuttingtools.com/burrs.htm
Designed to rough-up surfaces, and they have 60 deg bits, so I could use the standard
router bit and then the rougher. That is now Plan B.

CW wrote:

The molding head would be the best choice. For that type of profile, it is
far more efficient. Yes, look in the Yellow Pages under "grinding, tool and
cutter".

How would a molding head work for making a v-groove with lines it? If
the groove is just stepped, that would work. But if you want a
v-groove with raised lines (or even cut in lines), a molding head
won't be able to do that since it doesn't move in the same direction
as the material.

No. A rougher is a type of milling cutter. They have "teeth" on the flutes
to break up chips. They are used to rough out a shape before the finish
cuts.
"Igor" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 12 Jul 2003 00:19:06 GMT, "CW" wrote:

The molding head would be the best choice. For that type of profile, it
is
far more efficient. Yes, look in the Yellow Pages under "grinding, tool
and
cutter".

No luck in the Yellw Pages but having some luck at Thomas Register. I
think. Not
100% sure if the companies I am finding are right, but I'll check on
Monday. Thanks.

BTW, I also found a company that makes "roughers" and burrs, or some such.
http://www.midwestcuttingtools.com/burrs.htm
Designed to rough-up surfaces, and they have 60 deg bits, so I could use
the standard
router bit and then the rougher. That is now Plan B.

On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 17:50:49 -0700, "Kevin P. Fleming" wrote:

CW wrote:

The molding head would be the best choice. For that type of profile, it is
far more efficient. Yes, look in the Yellow Pages under "grinding, tool and
cutter".

How would a molding head work for making a v-groove with lines it? If
the groove is just stepped, that would work. But if you want a
v-groove with raised lines (or even cut in lines), a molding head
won't be able to do that since it doesn't move in the same direction
as the material.

Of course, you are correct. But my original idea -- not actually stated here -- was
to approximate many steps. A rough surface would be good enough for the prototype,
and a $14 router bit seemed a good way to go. Anyway, I sort of backed into a
solution. Thanks.