Years ago our family lived in a house in the suburbs. I did my woodworking
in the basement, including sprayed finishes. I used polyurethane
exclusively. Once I built a canopy cradle for our firstborn. I laid the
polyurethane on so thick that years later somebody parked it next to a
heater outlet in the house that the finish blistered. Sawdust getting
dragged through the house and fumes coming up from the basement were a
couple of reasons why we moved to the country.

Now, years later I am getting back into woodworking. The woodshop is now
located on the second floor of an old carriage house next to the main house
here here. Because of the age of the carriage house I will never be able
to keep the dust down. So, I would like to get away from sprayed urethane
and try spraying fast drying clear lacquers.

I haven't been able to keep up with the latest advances in finishes. I am,
however, really concerned about water spotting problems that I have read
about when using lacquer finishes for tabletops and so forth. Can anybody
recommend a fast drying, state-of-the-art, lacquer that has either a
minimal, or no water spotting problems?

Thank you in advance for the help.

I am using Sherwin Williams product called CAB-Acrylic Lacquer. It is
about 50 dollars a gallon.

"Ken Wood" wrote in message
. 167...
Years ago our family lived in a house in the suburbs. I did my
woodworking
in the basement, including sprayed finishes. I used polyurethane
exclusively. Once I built a canopy cradle for our firstborn. I laid the
polyurethane on so thick that years later somebody parked it next to a
heater outlet in the house that the finish blistered. Sawdust getting
dragged through the house and fumes coming up from the basement were a
couple of reasons why we moved to the country.

Now, years later I am getting back into woodworking. The woodshop is now
located on the second floor of an old carriage house next to the main
house
here here. Because of the age of the carriage house I will never be able
to keep the dust down. So, I would like to get away from sprayed urethane
and try spraying fast drying clear lacquers.

I haven't been able to keep up with the latest advances in finishes. I
am,
however, really concerned about water spotting problems that I have read
about when using lacquer finishes for tabletops and so forth. Can anybody
recommend a fast drying, state-of-the-art, lacquer that has either a
minimal, or no water spotting problems?

Thank you in advance for the help.

I also use the same product @ 30.00 Per Gallon
Good product dry's fast and dry's hard, is also self sealing

wrote in message
.net...
I am using Sherwin Williams product called CAB-Acrylic Lacquer. It is
about 50 dollars a gallon.

"Ken Wood" wrote in message
. 167...
Years ago our family lived in a house in the suburbs. I did my
woodworking
in the basement, including sprayed finishes. I used polyurethane
exclusively. Once I built a canopy cradle for our firstborn. I laid the
polyurethane on so thick that years later somebody parked it next to a
heater outlet in the house that the finish blistered. Sawdust getting
dragged through the house and fumes coming up from the basement were a
couple of reasons why we moved to the country.

Now, years later I am getting back into woodworking. The woodshop is now
located on the second floor of an old carriage house next to the main
house
here here. Because of the age of the carriage house I will never be able
to keep the dust down. So, I would like to get away from sprayed
urethane
and try spraying fast drying clear lacquers.

I haven't been able to keep up with the latest advances in finishes. I
am,
however, really concerned about water spotting problems that I have read
about when using lacquer finishes for tabletops and so forth. Can
anybody
recommend a fast drying, state-of-the-art, lacquer that has either a
minimal, or no water spotting problems?

Thank you in advance for the help.

Thanks to all for the help.

You have given me some places to start.

You guys are just the people I needed for advice last weekend. In the
past I have used Sherwin Williams Nitrocelulose lacquer. Worked great.
Recently I switched to their waterborne lacquer and corresponding
sealer. I am using a Sharpe HVLP conversion gun. Right now I am
spraying the base cabinets for a new kitchen. Since they are not seen
after completion (exterior is hidden by other cabinets and interior is
filled with drawers)I am using them to get experience with the new
product. I had two problems that puzzle me. My sequence of operations
was:
Sand to 220
Wet to raise the grain
Sand lightly to 220
Spray water soluble analine dye to color the wood.
Wait 24 hrs
Spray sealer
Sand LIGHTLY to 220 --- THIS TOOK OFF SOME OF THE DYE -- Not a
real problem because it will not be seen
Spray 3 coats of lacquer - 1/2 hour apart with hand sanding to 400

grit between coats. I was using 65 psi
air pressure, 15 psi fluid pressure at
the tip,fluid wide open, reasonable fan

width, gun at about 10-12 inches from

the surface.
wait 24 hours
Light rubout with steel wool using Murphy soap for a carrier.



Questions:
Do I need 2 coats of sealer or 1 heavier coat to prevent sanding
out the dye?

The final finish is acceptable, but has a very fine orange peel
finish. Does this relate to the sealer being too thin, or
something in my technique?

Are the settings right for my gun??

Thanks,
Len
------------------------

wrote:

wait 24 hours
Light rubout with steel wool using Murphy soap for a carrier.

I thought you weren't supposed to use steel wool with any water-based
finish due to the possibility of rust?

You can't use steel wook or tack rags in the finishing process - under
the lacquer etc... But, after it is hard there is no problem with it.

Len
------------
Charlie M. 1958 wrote:
wrote:

wait 24 hours
Light rubout with steel wool using Murphy soap for a carrier.

I thought you weren't supposed to use steel wool with any water-based
finish due to the possibility of rust?

wrote in message
ups.com...

You can't use steel wook or tack rags in the finishing process - under
the lacquer etc... But, after it is hard there is no problem with it.


I don't use steel wool, but I do use a tac cloth every time I paint a car.
I have never had a problem in doing so. I know there is a lot of
conversation around here about tac clothes, but I shoot a lot more paint
than most here and like I said - I have never had a problem using them.

--

-Mike-

The tack rag comment only applies to water borne products. Are you
using water borne stuff on cars?

Len
--------
Mike Marlow wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...

You can't use steel wook or tack rags in the finishing process - under
the lacquer etc... But, after it is hard there is no problem with it.


I don't use steel wool, but I do use a tac cloth every time I paint a car.
I have never had a problem in doing so. I know there is a lot of
conversation around here about tac clothes, but I shoot a lot more paint
than most here and like I said - I have never had a problem using them.

--

-Mike-

wrote in message
oups.com...

The tack rag comment only applies to water borne products. Are you
using water borne stuff on cars?


That would be an oops on my part. Didn't realize the comment was specific
to water borne products.

--

-Mike-