Went to Sears awhile ago. Their blades for a jointer look identical to
the blades that came off my vintage craftsman jointer with one
exception, the ones at sears are 1/16 of an inch shorter. In my old
manual for this jointer, it says to let the blade overhang the
cutterhead 1/16 of an inch on each side. I could nto do that with
these. I am thinking it still might work. They are 24.99. What do you
think?

"stryped" wrote in message
ups.com...
Went to Sears awhile ago. Their blades for a jointer look identical to
the blades that came off my vintage craftsman jointer with one
exception, the ones at sears are 1/16 of an inch shorter. In my old
manual for this jointer, it says to let the blade overhang the
cutterhead 1/16 of an inch on each side. I could nto do that with
these. I am thinking it still might work. They are 24.99. What do you
think?


I think you should take up stamp collecting as a hobby.

In article . com, "stryped" wrote:
Went to Sears awhile ago. Their blades for a jointer look identical to
the blades that came off my vintage craftsman jointer with one
exception, the ones at sears are 1/16 of an inch shorter. In my old
manual for this jointer, it says to let the blade overhang the
cutterhead 1/16 of an inch on each side. I could nto do that with
these. I am thinking it still might work. They are 24.99. What do you
think?

I think that you need to experiment -- and *think* -- a little bit before
posting. _Of_course_ they'll work.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

But the manual said it was very important to have 1/16 inch of the
knife stick out of the cutterhead on each end. There is no way to do
this
Doug Miller wrote:
In article . com, "stryped" wrote:
Went to Sears awhile ago. Their blades for a jointer look identical to
the blades that came off my vintage craftsman jointer with one
exception, the ones at sears are 1/16 of an inch shorter. In my old
manual for this jointer, it says to let the blade overhang the
cutterhead 1/16 of an inch on each side. I could nto do that with
these. I am thinking it still might work. They are 24.99. What do you
think?

I think that you need to experiment -- and *think* -- a little bit before
posting. _Of_course_ they'll work.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Top posting corrected so that the exchange flows naturally

"stryped" wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
In article . com, "stryped" wrote:

the ones at sears are 1/16 of an inch shorter. In my old
manual for this jointer, it says to let the blade overhang the
cutterhead 1/16 of an inch on each side. I could nto do that with
these.

I think that you need to experiment -- and *think* -- a little bit before
posting. _Of_course_ they'll work.

But the manual said it was very important to have 1/16 inch of the
knife stick out of the cutterhead on each end. There is no way to do
this

You forgot the "think" part of Doug's advice. Why do you think they
said to have them stick out 1/16" at each end?

Hint 1) If the original ones don't stick out of one end, what has
happened at the other end?

Hint 2) Can you think of any possible negative effects from your
answer to #1?

Hint 3) What negative effects do you think will happen if there is
only a 1/32" overhang?

If you can't figure this out, you will be pretty unhappy with this
hobby--all too often, you have to make a judgement and figure out how
to do something because something else didn't work exactly to plan (in
my case, always due to wood movement, never a measurement or cutting
error on my own partg). Wanting to follow directions is good, but
being slave to them to the extent shown in this question indicates the
wrong mindset/personality type for this hobby, IMHO.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

stryped wrote:
Went to Sears awhile ago. Their blades for a jointer look identical to
the blades that came off my vintage craftsman jointer with one
exception, the ones at sears are 1/16 of an inch shorter. In my old
manual for this jointer, it says to let the blade overhang the
cutterhead 1/16 of an inch on each side. I could nto do that with
these. I am thinking it still might work. They are 24.99. What do you
think?

Beware of Sears jointer knives. DAGS on Jo4hn and jointer. I wrote a
series of posts a year or two ago. I bought some Sears knives that were
..008" thicker at one end which is more than enough to send them flying.
If you need that kind of excitement, OK, but I would measure first.

You can get quality knives in that size from Freud and others (DAGS
jointer knives) and they might even have the proper overhang. Even
cutting the size of the knives will make Sears extra money.
twitch,
jo4hn

Read the manual again and I am confident that you will finfd it says 1/16"
overhang on outside edge .... to allow for rebating. Think about it. What is
the point of having overhang on the fence side?

"stryped" wrote in message
ps.com...
But the manual said it was very important to have 1/16 inch of the
knife stick out of the cutterhead on each end. There is no way to do
this
Doug Miller wrote:
In article . com,
"stryped" wrote:
Went to Sears awhile ago. Their blades for a jointer look identical to
the blades that came off my vintage craftsman jointer with one
exception, the ones at sears are 1/16 of an inch shorter. In my old
manual for this jointer, it says to let the blade overhang the
cutterhead 1/16 of an inch on each side. I could nto do that with
these. I am thinking it still might work. They are 24.99. What do you
think?

I think that you need to experiment -- and *think* -- a little bit
before
posting. _Of_course_ they'll work.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.