Hello,

I spent the weekend tuning up my shop and I purchased a the polycarb jointer
jig with magnets from Woodcraft to reset my knives. I have a Sunhill
jointer (like Jet/Grizzly, etc) and the knives are held in place with a
magnet piece that has screws that bind the knives/magnet into place in the
cutterhead. The two pieces sit on a couple of springs (I assume to help
align the knife).

One thing I noticed is that the springs were so strong that the knife
assembly pushed up on my magnet jig. So I ended up lining up the jig first
(on TDC - true dead center) and then putting a block on top of the jig to
hold it down, sliding the knife assembly underneath so the tip of the knife
lined up with the mark on the jig and then secured it.

Once I installed all 3 knives I did the board slide test (as described in
the archives). I put a mark on the board, set the board on the outfeed
table, over the cutterhead as well, and lined the mark up to the end of the
table. As I rotated the cutterhead (using the belt) I found that one knife
moved it about 1/8", the 2nd knife about 1/16" and the third just barely
touched it. Oh, I should probably point out that I aligned the outfeed
table to the first knife before checking the other three (hoping they would
match). So at this point I do get nice flat boards when run through the
jointer, but logic says one of my knives is working harder than the other 2.

So, since I'm not really using the magnets to set the knives (I have to push
down on the jig to keep the springs from pushing the jig up), it's acting as
more of a flat hold down. Ugh.

Here's my question: Is it possible to remove the springs without affecting
the performance of the jointer? By removing the springs it seems that the
jig would perform as it was designed -- to hold the knife assembly UP not
push it down -- thus I would be exerting less pressure on the knives and I
assume I would be able to align them more precisely.

Or do I just keep aligning them over and over until they match with the push
test? I'm I dreaming that that's possible?

Thanks,
Mike

I think you didn't need to buy the magnet. The springs do the same
thing...keep the blade pushed up against an object that is flush with the
outfeed table. You put a straight steel rule on the outfeed table and let
the blade touch it at specified distance from the edge of the outfeed table
which represents TDC. You're probably right, though...since ya already
spent those bucks, can remove the springs if you want.

Did you plane a board yet? I can usually tell if the blades are alligned
just by the nice smooth sound of the machine. Unalligned blades make more
noise and vibration even when newly sharp.
The board test is not always accurate since the blade can slip on the board
a bit .

"Mike in Idaho" wrote in message
...
Hello,

I spent the weekend tuning up my shop and I purchased a the polycarb
jointer
jig with magnets from Woodcraft to reset my knives. I have a Sunhill
jointer (like Jet/Grizzly, etc) and the knives are held in place with a
magnet piece that has screws that bind the knives/magnet into place in the
cutterhead. The two pieces sit on a couple of springs (I assume to help
align the knife).

One thing I noticed is that the springs were so strong that the knife
assembly pushed up on my magnet jig. So I ended up lining up the jig
first
(on TDC - true dead center) and then putting a block on top of the jig to
hold it down, sliding the knife assembly underneath so the tip of the
knife
lined up with the mark on the jig and then secured it.

Once I installed all 3 knives I did the board slide test (as described in
the archives). I put a mark on the board, set the board on the outfeed
table, over the cutterhead as well, and lined the mark up to the end of
the
table. As I rotated the cutterhead (using the belt) I found that one
knife
moved it about 1/8", the 2nd knife about 1/16" and the third just barely
touched it. Oh, I should probably point out that I aligned the outfeed
table to the first knife before checking the other three (hoping they
would
match). So at this point I do get nice flat boards when run through the
jointer, but logic says one of my knives is working harder than the other
2.

So, since I'm not really using the magnets to set the knives (I have to
push
down on the jig to keep the springs from pushing the jig up), it's acting
as
more of a flat hold down. Ugh.

Here's my question: Is it possible to remove the springs without
affecting
the performance of the jointer? By removing the springs it seems that the
jig would perform as it was designed -- to hold the knife assembly UP not
push it down -- thus I would be exerting less pressure on the knives and I
assume I would be able to align them more precisely.

Or do I just keep aligning them over and over until they match with the
push
test? I'm I dreaming that that's possible?

Thanks,
Mike

I have had my jointer for about 3 months now and have not yet had to change
the blades. When do you decide it's time to make a change (replace/flip
them)? About how much wood does a blade handle (feet of material)? I
realize that the hardness of the material will make a difference. I am
using Ulmo (sp?) which is softer than maple I believe. Do I look for
certain marks or shininess on the surface?

Brian

"T Clapp" wrote in message
...
| I think you didn't need to buy the magnet. The springs do the same
| thing...keep the blade pushed up against an object that is flush with the
| outfeed table. You put a straight steel rule on the outfeed table and
let
| the blade touch it at specified distance from the edge of the outfeed
table
| which represents TDC. You're probably right, though...since ya already
| spent those bucks, can remove the springs if you want.
|
| Did you plane a board yet? I can usually tell if the blades are alligned
| just by the nice smooth sound of the machine. Unalligned blades make more
| noise and vibration even when newly sharp.
| The board test is not always accurate since the blade can slip on the
board
| a bit .
|
| "Mike in Idaho" wrote in message
| ...
| Hello,
|
| I spent the weekend tuning up my shop and I purchased a the polycarb
| jointer
| jig with magnets from Woodcraft to reset my knives. I have a Sunhill
| jointer (like Jet/Grizzly, etc) and the knives are held in place with a
| magnet piece that has screws that bind the knives/magnet into place in
the
| cutterhead. The two pieces sit on a couple of springs (I assume to
help
| align the knife).
|
| One thing I noticed is that the springs were so strong that the knife
| assembly pushed up on my magnet jig. So I ended up lining up the jig
| first
| (on TDC - true dead center) and then putting a block on top of the jig
to
| hold it down, sliding the knife assembly underneath so the tip of the
| knife
| lined up with the mark on the jig and then secured it.
|
| Once I installed all 3 knives I did the board slide test (as described
in
| the archives). I put a mark on the board, set the board on the outfeed
| table, over the cutterhead as well, and lined the mark up to the end of
| the
| table. As I rotated the cutterhead (using the belt) I found that one
| knife
| moved it about 1/8", the 2nd knife about 1/16" and the third just
barely
| touched it. Oh, I should probably point out that I aligned the outfeed
| table to the first knife before checking the other three (hoping they
| would
| match). So at this point I do get nice flat boards when run through
the
| jointer, but logic says one of my knives is working harder than the
other
| 2.
|
| So, since I'm not really using the magnets to set the knives (I have to
| push
| down on the jig to keep the springs from pushing the jig up), it's
acting
| as
| more of a flat hold down. Ugh.
|
| Here's my question: Is it possible to remove the springs without
| affecting
| the performance of the jointer? By removing the springs it seems that
the
| jig would perform as it was designed -- to hold the knife assembly UP
not
| push it down -- thus I would be exerting less pressure on the knives
and I
| assume I would be able to align them more precisely.
|
| Or do I just keep aligning them over and over until they match with the
| push
| test? I'm I dreaming that that's possible?
|
| Thanks,
| Mike
|
|
|
|

In my case (I've only been woodworking for 1.5 years) I was stupid enough to
run some MDF on my jointer. Since then I've learned that not only are there
harsh glues in MDF you also get bits of rock and other crap. Ugh.

Needless to say I have some minor (they are minor) nicks in my knives now --
very easy to see on the wood, you get nice little inverted grooves (probably
2 thou. wide is all -- but they're visible). I was trying to slide one of
my knives perpendicular to the tables (sideways I guess you could say) so
that the nicks no longer line up and hopefully remove some of the grooves as
a result.

Mike


"Brian in Vancouver, BC" wrote in message
news:rqnPb.59337$De.19730@edtnps84...
I have had my jointer for about 3 months now and have not yet had to
change
the blades. When do you decide it's time to make a change (replace/flip
them)? About how much wood does a blade handle (feet of material)? I
realize that the hardness of the material will make a difference. I am
using Ulmo (sp?) which is softer than maple I believe. Do I look for
certain marks or shininess on the surface?

Brian

Thanks, good point. In fact, since I have access to a machine shop I
probably could have made a nice flat aluminum bar with cuttouts for my
wrench, but ah well -- I only spent $30. I'll have to try removing the
springs and see if that makes it easier.

Although, if one blade is more proud than the others, technically speaking
it should wear faster and eventually be in line with the other 2 anyway...

Mike

"T Clapp" wrote in message
...
I think you didn't need to buy the magnet. The springs do the same
thing...keep the blade pushed up against an object that is flush with the
outfeed table. You put a straight steel rule on the outfeed table and let
the blade touch it at specified distance from the edge of the outfeed
table
which represents TDC. You're probably right, though...since ya already
spent those bucks, can remove the springs if you want.

Did you plane a board yet? I can usually tell if the blades are alligned
just by the nice smooth sound of the machine. Unalligned blades make more
noise and vibration even when newly sharp.
The board test is not always accurate since the blade can slip on the
board
a bit .

"Mike in Idaho" wrote in message
...
Hello,

I spent the weekend tuning up my shop and I purchased a the polycarb
jointer
jig with magnets from Woodcraft to reset my knives. I have a Sunhill
jointer (like Jet/Grizzly, etc) and the knives are held in place with a
magnet piece that has screws that bind the knives/magnet into place in
the
cutterhead. The two pieces sit on a couple of springs (I assume to help
align the knife).

One thing I noticed is that the springs were so strong that the knife
assembly pushed up on my magnet jig. So I ended up lining up the jig
first
(on TDC - true dead center) and then putting a block on top of the jig
to
hold it down, sliding the knife assembly underneath so the tip of the
knife
lined up with the mark on the jig and then secured it.

Once I installed all 3 knives I did the board slide test (as described
in
the archives). I put a mark on the board, set the board on the outfeed
table, over the cutterhead as well, and lined the mark up to the end of
the
table. As I rotated the cutterhead (using the belt) I found that one
knife
moved it about 1/8", the 2nd knife about 1/16" and the third just barely
touched it. Oh, I should probably point out that I aligned the outfeed
table to the first knife before checking the other three (hoping they
would
match). So at this point I do get nice flat boards when run through the
jointer, but logic says one of my knives is working harder than the
other
2.

So, since I'm not really using the magnets to set the knives (I have to
push
down on the jig to keep the springs from pushing the jig up), it's
acting
as
more of a flat hold down. Ugh.

Here's my question: Is it possible to remove the springs without
affecting
the performance of the jointer? By removing the springs it seems that
the
jig would perform as it was designed -- to hold the knife assembly UP
not
push it down -- thus I would be exerting less pressure on the knives and
I
assume I would be able to align them more precisely.

Or do I just keep aligning them over and over until they match with the
push
test? I'm I dreaming that that's possible?

Thanks,
Mike

On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 05:32:48 GMT, "Mike in Idaho" wrote:

Thanks, good point. In fact, since I have access to a machine shop I
probably could have made a nice flat aluminum bar with cuttouts for my
wrench, but ah well -- I only spent $30. I'll have to try removing the
springs and see if that makes it easier.

Although, if one blade is more proud than the others, technically speaking
it should wear faster and eventually be in line with the other 2 anyway...

Mike

nope. it'll just get dull faster and thump the wood even harder....

Mmmm...good point. Guess I'll go back and realign them again.

Mike

"Bridger" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 05:32:48 GMT, "Mike in Idaho" wrote:

Thanks, good point. In fact, since I have access to a machine shop I
probably could have made a nice flat aluminum bar with cuttouts for my
wrench, but ah well -- I only spent $30. I'll have to try removing the
springs and see if that makes it easier.

Although, if one blade is more proud than the others, technically
speaking
it should wear faster and eventually be in line with the other 2
anyway...

Mike

nope. it'll just get dull faster and thump the wood even harder....