I need to attach 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" square oak ballisters to the outside of a
1-1/2" x 12" oak stringer (interior open-riser stairs). I'll use a Fuller
drill/countersink to drill the ballisters, predrill the stringer, and use a
Fuller plug cutter for plugs to hide the screws.

I'm looking at the #10 (or #12) x 2-1/2" FSL screws from McFeely's (sq
drive). Are these the best screws for the job (one of the highest torque
values to prevent snapping)? Would #12 be better than the #10's in this
case?

Thanks for any advice,
-Lance

"Lance" wrote in
:

I need to attach 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" square oak ballisters to the outside
of a 1-1/2" x 12" oak stringer (interior open-riser stairs). I'll use
a Fuller drill/countersink to drill the ballisters, predrill the
stringer, and use a Fuller plug cutter for plugs to hide the screws.

I'm looking at the #10 (or #12) x 2-1/2" FSL screws from McFeely's
(sq drive). Are these the best screws for the job (one of the highest
torque values to prevent snapping)? Would #12 be better than the
#10's in this case?

Thanks for any advice,
-Lance




Call McFeeley's. They'll know, and tell you.

Patriarch

Lance wrote:
I need to attach 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" square oak ballisters to the
outside of a 1-1/2" x 12" oak stringer (interior open-riser
stairs). I'll use a Fuller drill/countersink to drill the
ballisters, predrill the stringer, and use a Fuller plug cutter
for plugs to hide the screws.

I'm looking at the #10 (or #12) x 2-1/2" FSL screws from McFeely's
(sq drive). Are these the best screws for the job (one of the
highest torque values to prevent snapping)? Would #12 be better
than the #10's in this case?

Steel screws will corrode in and discolor oak. Use bronze or
stainless steel. Brass is a weaker alternative. Bronze and brass
(especially) screws should be tightened by hand...OK to power drive a
steel one, remove and replace.


--

dadiOH
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