I have 2 Dewalt 80t blades. Both blades have lost there sharpness IMO to
soon. About 150-200 cuts per blade. I am cutting soft pine for trim. My Q
is, how many cuts should I get before having them sharpened?

"J.F. Kirkland III" wrote in message
...
I have 2 Dewalt 80t blades. Both blades have lost there sharpness IMO to
soon. About 150-200 cuts per blade. I am cutting soft pine for trim. My
Q is, how many cuts should I get before having them sharpened?


I don't know about DeWalt but you will literally get 10's of thousands of
cuts out of a Forrest.

That said, I highly suspect that since you are cutting pine that your blades
may simply be dirty. Pitch build up on a blade will greatly reduce their
cutting ability and smoothness. Get some CMT Formula 2050, a biodegradable
cleaner specifically made to clean bits and blades QUICKLY.

J.F. Kirkland III wrote:
I have 2 Dewalt 80t blades. Both blades have lost there sharpness IMO to
soon. About 150-200 cuts per blade. I am cutting soft pine for trim. My Q
is, how many cuts should I get before having them sharpened?

I've several DeWalt blades including the one that came w/ the chop saw.
As Leon says, they'll stay sharp for a much longer time than
that---I've used this saw for several years between sharpenings on
everything from hardwood trim to the finish work on the old barn which
is 90+ yr old SYP (translation--harder than rocks w/ _lots_ of pitch)
and most of it is dirt-encrusted as well and have made literally
thousands of cuts w/ no real problems of excessively dulling the
blade(s).

Something just ain't right here--can you describe the problem? Soft
pine, other than the gumming problem, should have no discernible effect
on the blade in any short period of time. If it's burning, it's
probably either pitch or you're simply not cutting fast enough. If
it's something else, repost more details and somebody will have ideas...

yea, it's smoking when I try and cut. Seem's as if it is not getting enough
power to the saw. Sound's like it! Should I try a specific gauge extension
cord?
"dpb" wrote in message
oups.com...

J.F. Kirkland III wrote:
I have 2 Dewalt 80t blades. Both blades have lost there sharpness IMO to
soon. About 150-200 cuts per blade. I am cutting soft pine for trim.
My Q
is, how many cuts should I get before having them sharpened?

I've several DeWalt blades including the one that came w/ the chop saw.
As Leon says, they'll stay sharp for a much longer time than
that---I've used this saw for several years between sharpenings on
everything from hardwood trim to the finish work on the old barn which
is 90+ yr old SYP (translation--harder than rocks w/ _lots_ of pitch)
and most of it is dirt-encrusted as well and have made literally
thousands of cuts w/ no real problems of excessively dulling the
blade(s).

Something just ain't right here--can you describe the problem? Soft
pine, other than the gumming problem, should have no discernible effect
on the blade in any short period of time. If it's burning, it's
probably either pitch or you're simply not cutting fast enough. If
it's something else, repost more details and somebody will have ideas...

On Mon, 10 Jul 2006 16:46:21 GMT, "J.F. Kirkland III"
wrote:

yea, it's smoking when I try and cut. Seem's as if it is not getting enough
power to the saw. Sound's like it! Should I try a specific gauge extension
cord?
[...snip...]

If you want to make a test, try using no extension cord and see what
the effect is.

I vote for gummed up blade as well. There are lots of cleaners, I use
Simple Green. I soak it for about 30 minutes and then scrub with a
toothbrush. I favor the yellow kind because I hate the odor of the
green stuff.

On Mon, 10 Jul 2006 14:20:27 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


"J.F. Kirkland III" wrote in message
m...
I have 2 Dewalt 80t blades. Both blades have lost there sharpness IMO to
soon. About 150-200 cuts per blade. I am cutting soft pine for trim. My
Q is, how many cuts should I get before having them sharpened?


I don't know about DeWalt but you will literally get 10's of thousands of
cuts out of a Forrest.

I'd love that to be true. I don't know what it actually is, but
whatever it is is a lot more than 150-200.


That said, I highly suspect that since you are cutting pine that your blades
may simply be dirty. Pitch build up on a blade will greatly reduce their
cutting ability and smoothness. Get some CMT Formula 2050, a biodegradable
cleaner specifically made to clean bits and blades QUICKLY.


Pine's not the only wood that leaves a deposit. Many others do too.
And the pitch they leave on the blade is visible. No guesswork there.

Cleaning is good.

Leon wrote:

Get some CMT Formula 2050, a biodegradable cleaner specifically made
to clean bits and blades QUICKLY.

I recently got some of this at the local Woodcraft store. As I
recall it was something like $11 for a bottle with about 8-10 ounces
in it. It does indeed seem to do the job on all the saw blades and
router bits I've used it on.

One thing I've noticd though, is this stuff smells exactly like
Formula 409. I haven't gotten around to trying it, but when I run out
of the CMT Formula 2050, I'm going to give Formula 409 a try.

"Bob Moos" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:

Get some CMT Formula 2050, a biodegradable cleaner specifically made
to clean bits and blades QUICKLY.

I recently got some of this at the local Woodcraft store. As I
recall it was something like $11 for a bottle with about 8-10 ounces
in it. It does indeed seem to do the job on all the saw blades and
router bits I've used it on.

One thing I've noticd though, is this stuff smells exactly like
Formula 409. I haven't gotten around to trying it, but when I run out
of the CMT Formula 2050, I'm going to give Formula 409 a try.


Probably not the same. ;~) It also smells like Fast Orange hand cleaner.
LOL

Bob Moos wrote:

I recently got some of this at the local Woodcraft store. As I
recall it was something like $11 for a bottle with about 8-10 ounces
in it. It does indeed seem to do the job on all the saw blades and
router bits I've used it on.

One thing I've noticd though, is this stuff smells exactly like
Formula 409. I haven't gotten around to trying it, but when I run out
of the CMT Formula 2050, I'm going to give Formula 409 a try.


Get an automobile oil change pan (big enough bottom to let a 10" blade
lay flat).

Put blade in pan add 1/2" of simple green.

Let stand 24-48 hours, then scrub with a soft bristle brush.

BTW, that nice red teflon finish they put of Freud blades comes right
off along with all the gunk.

DAMHIKT.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Bob Moos wrote:

I recently got some of this at the local Woodcraft store. As I
recall it was something like $11 for a bottle with about 8-10 ounces
in it. It does indeed seem to do the job on all the saw blades and
router bits I've used it on.

One thing I've noticd though, is this stuff smells exactly like
Formula 409. I haven't gotten around to trying it, but when I run out
of the CMT Formula 2050, I'm going to give Formula 409 a try.


Get an automobile oil change pan (big enough bottom to let a 10" blade
lay flat).

Put blade in pan add 1/2" of simple green.

Let stand 24-48 hours, then scrub with a soft bristle brush.

BTW, that nice red teflon finish they put of Freud blades comes right
off along with all the gunk.

DAMHIKT.

Lew

the lid to a 5 gallon plastic pail is just about right for a 10" blade.
hot water by itself will clean most wood residue off in a few minutes.
if that doesn't get it all a little laundry detergent will.

I don't get it about all of the oven cleaner/ specialty solvent/ toxic
chemicals people use to clean wood pitch off of saw blades.

wrote in message
ups.com...

the lid to a 5 gallon plastic pail is just about right for a 10" blade.
hot water by itself will clean most wood residue off in a few minutes.
if that doesn't get it all a little laundry detergent will.

I don't get it about all of the oven cleaner/ specialty solvent/ toxic
chemicals people use to clean wood pitch off of saw blades.

The advantage to Formula 2050 is that it is safe to handle and is bio
degradable and fast. It is common to have a clean blade in 10 minutes with
out having anything but the cleaner and a paper towel. I spray around the
teeth and immediately start wiping the blade clean with a paper towel.
Other items work just as well but are IMHO slower and more trouble.

J.F. Kirkland III wrote:
yea, it's smoking when I try and cut. Seem's as if it is not getting enough
power to the saw. Sound's like it! Should I try a specific gauge extension
cord?
....

As Jim suggested, try w/o an extension cord--if there's any difference
whatsoever, that's certainly dead-certain indication that what you're
using is too small/long. I rarely if ever run the chop-saw off an
extension, but it ought to be a 14 ga _minimum_.

What size material are you cutting? Another possibility is the saw is
out of alignment?
What is the actual saw (make/model)? Maybe somebody has something on a
specific saw. I've the original 12" DeWalt (although the current one
looks to still be essentially identical) and after all these years and
the abuse it's received it is still dead-on. That doesn't say there's
not something going on or if you have a different saw.

Whatever it is, I still don't much think the blades themselves should
be showing actual loss in sharpness after only a few cuts in soft
pine--it's something else or a remediable problem that's causing
excessive blade wear/binding.

Too much pitch perhaps? Get some Simple Green and clean the blade it does
wonders...
BB

"dpb" wrote in message
ups.com...

J.F. Kirkland III wrote:
yea, it's smoking when I try and cut. Seem's as if it is not getting
enough
power to the saw. Sound's like it! Should I try a specific gauge
extension
cord?
...

As Jim suggested, try w/o an extension cord--if there's any difference
whatsoever, that's certainly dead-certain indication that what you're
using is too small/long. I rarely if ever run the chop-saw off an
extension, but it ought to be a 14 ga _minimum_.

What size material are you cutting? Another possibility is the saw is
out of alignment?
What is the actual saw (make/model)? Maybe somebody has something on a
specific saw. I've the original 12" DeWalt (although the current one
looks to still be essentially identical) and after all these years and
the abuse it's received it is still dead-on. That doesn't say there's
not something going on or if you have a different saw.

Whatever it is, I still don't much think the blades themselves should
be showing actual loss in sharpness after only a few cuts in soft
pine--it's something else or a remediable problem that's causing
excessive blade wear/binding.

Earlier poster suggested using hot water and laundry detergent to clean
blades. What about just slipping them into the dishwasher? Has anyone
tried this? Dumb idea?

"James Silcott" wrote in message
...
Earlier poster suggested using hot water and laundry detergent to clean
blades. What about just slipping them into the dishwasher? Has anyone
tried this? Dumb idea?


Think rust.

"James Silcott" wrote in message
...
Earlier poster suggested using hot water and laundry detergent to clean
blades. What about just slipping them into the dishwasher? Has anyone
tried this? Dumb idea?


Yes - the dishwasher soap is fairly caustic and would probably cause
problems. It actually will eat at glass if you have very sof****er. Also a
problem with rust???

Just use Simple Green - not expensive and not caustic.

BB

OK
I plug it in w/ no ext. cord, lot's more power. Gonna' try blade cleaning
in the am

I'm gonna' have to use an ext. cord though. Any suggestions there? Is
there a chart that would help me out w/ this and other "Power Tools"?
"BB" wrote in message
news:d20tg.15098$Wh7.2814@trnddc07...

"James Silcott" wrote in message
...
Earlier poster suggested using hot water and laundry detergent to clean
blades. What about just slipping them into the dishwasher? Has anyone
tried this? Dumb idea?


Yes - the dishwasher soap is fairly caustic and would probably cause
problems. It actually will eat at glass if you have very sof****er. Also a
problem with rust???

Just use Simple Green - not expensive and not caustic.

BB

"J.F. Kirkland III" said:

OK
I plug it in w/ no ext. cord, lot's more power. Gonna' try blade cleaning
in the am

I'm gonna' have to use an ext. cord though. Any suggestions there? Is
there a chart that would help me out w/ this and other "Power Tools"?

Losses (voltage drop) in the extension cord depend on the length and
wire gauge of the cord and the tool's amperage draw.

Google with keywords: Extension Cord Voltage Drop

You will get several hits containing tables that show you the voltage
drop for your particular parameters. Select a gauge and length that
yields less than 5% drop for the amperage your saw draws.

Bottom line - use the heaviest gauge cord you can find that is no
longer than absolutely necessary.

J.F. Kirkland III wrote:
OK
I plug it in w/ no ext. cord, lot's more power. Gonna' try blade
cleaning
in the am

I'm gonna' have to use an ext. cord though. Any suggestions there?

Go to Home Depot and buy a 25 ft, molded cord set.

Try to find a 10-2 with ground.

Forget about the ends, anything will do.

Cut of the female and hard wire into saw.

If the male plug matches your receptacle, you're done.

If not, whack it off and wire in the correct one.

A molded cordset is the lowest cost way to buy a piece of wire.

Been doing it for a long time.

Have fun.

Lew

"J.F. Kirkland III" said:

OK
I plug it in w/ no ext. cord, lot's more power. Gonna' try blade cleaning
in the am

I'm gonna' have to use an ext. cord though. Any suggestions there? Is
there a chart that would help me out w/ this and other "Power Tools"?

Check ABPW. I just posted a chart that may help you out