Recently while I was traveling in a foreign country (Italy if it matters), I
had occasion to need to make the 1-1/2" knife blade on my pocket knife as
sharp as possible -- ideally "scalpel sharp". It's night-time (about 10 pm
local time) in an urban area and we're heading back to our lodging. There
are no nearby open stores. [Note: there was an open pharmacy but it's just
that -- they don't carry razor blades there].

I finally decided to use a stone, brick, concrete, or similar surface as a
sharpening stone -- and I didn't have any facility for either flattening
whatever I choose or even measuring flatness except by eye or feel. I
finally found a small area on the corner of a stone building that felt
smooth and flat enough and I used some available moisture to perform a
honing operation until the blade felt smooth and sharp enough -- measured
totally qualitatively by running it across the surface of my thumb-nail.

We went back to the lodging, boiled water which we used to "sterilize" the
blade and performed our makeshift surgery fairly successfully -- the blade
was, in fact, sharp enough that there was no pain when used to create a 1/2"
long, ~1/8" deep incision into a section of calloused skin and the
underlying healthy tissue.

Enough of the medical saga and onto the real question: Are there any
suggestions for sharpening a blade under these conditions that would have
been either easier or better than what I did?

TIA
Norm

On 11/25/05 10:07 AM, in article
, "Norm Dresner"
wrote:

Recently while I was traveling in a foreign country (Italy if it matters), I
had occasion to need to make the 1-1/2" knife blade on my pocket knife as
sharp as possible -- ideally "scalpel sharp". It's night-time (about 10 pm
local time) in an urban area and we're heading back to our lodging. There
are no nearby open stores. [Note: there was an open pharmacy but it's just
that -- they don't carry razor blades there].

I finally decided to use a stone, brick, concrete, or similar surface as a
sharpening stone -- and I didn't have any facility for either flattening
whatever I choose or even measuring flatness except by eye or feel. I
finally found a small area on the corner of a stone building that felt
smooth and flat enough and I used some available moisture to perform a
honing operation until the blade felt smooth and sharp enough -- measured
totally qualitatively by running it across the surface of my thumb-nail.

We went back to the lodging, boiled water which we used to "sterilize" the
blade and performed our makeshift surgery fairly successfully -- the blade
was, in fact, sharp enough that there was no pain when used to create a 1/2"
long, ~1/8" deep incision into a section of calloused skin and the
underlying healthy tissue.

Enough of the medical saga and onto the real question: Are there any
suggestions for sharpening a blade under these conditions that would have
been either easier or better than what I did?

TIA
Norm



Sharpen the blade at home before you leave on the trip? Then be sure to put
the knife in your checked baggage, of course. Sounds like you did a pretty
good job.

On a side note, a good friend and fellow modeler is a Captain with Delta,
who used to fly with a full toolbox to work on things in his hotel room at
night. He's now not allowed to fly with the dangerous #11 Xatco blades, etc.
--
Thanks!

Brian Ehni

"Brian Paul Ehni" wrote in message
...
On 11/25/05 10:07 AM, in article
, "Norm Dresner"
wrote:



Sharpen the blade at home before you leave on the trip? Then be sure to
put
the knife in your checked baggage, of course. Sounds like you did a pretty
good job.

On a side note, a good friend and fellow modeler is a Captain with Delta,
who used to fly with a full toolbox to work on things in his hotel room at
night. He's now not allowed to fly with the dangerous #11 Xatco blades,
etc.
--
Thanks!

Brian Ehni

Fortunately the blade was reasonably sharp before we left on the trip and I
had no expectation of ever needing to do that sort of thing by myself or I
would have at least packed a single-edge razor blade or two into the checked
luggage.

Norm

Brian Paul Ehni wrote:

On a side note, a good friend and fellow modeler is a Captain with Delta,
who used to fly with a full toolbox to work on things in his hotel room at
night. He's now not allowed to fly with the dangerous #11 Xatco blades, etc.

Just think what might happen it he took control of the aircraft!

Kevin Gallimore

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"Norm Dresner" wrote in message

Fortunately the blade was reasonably sharp before we left on the trip

If that's the case, the first thing that comes to mind is using a leather
belt as a razor strop ... that was the way we touched up our pocket knives
to skin all those rabbits and squirrels as a kid. It's worked for a
multitude of barbers to this day.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/05

"Norm Dresner" wrote: (clip) Are there any suggestions for sharpening a
blade under these conditions that would have been either easier or better
than what I did?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Possibly finding another building with an even smoother stone to finish up.
;-) Actually, you might have been able to improve things slightly by
stropping the blade on a leather belt or shoe. Or stroking it on the side
of a glass tumbler.

The bottom rim of many ceramic things - coffee cups come to mind,
are similar to ceramic crock sticks. A stroke or two on the
inside rim of a glass and a honing stroke on a belt of leather
boot top should get you "operating".

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Norm Dresner" wrote in message
...
Recently while I was traveling in a foreign country (Italy if it
matters), I had occasion to need to make the 1-1/2" knife blade
on my pocket knife as sharp as possible -- ideally "scalpel
sharp". It's night-time (about 10 pm local time) in an urban
area and we're heading back to our lodging. There are no nearby
open stores. [Note: there was an open pharmacy but it's just
that -- they don't carry razor blades there].

I finally decided to use a stone, brick, concrete, or similar
surface as a sharpening stone -- and I didn't have any facility
for either flattening whatever I choose or even measuring
flatness except by eye or feel. I finally found a small area on
the corner of a stone building that felt smooth and flat enough
and I used some available moisture to perform a honing operation
until the blade felt smooth and sharp enough -- measured totally
qualitatively by running it across the surface of my thumb-nail.

We went back to the lodging, boiled water which we used to
"sterilize" the blade and performed our makeshift surgery fairly
successfully -- the blade was, in fact, sharp enough that there
was no pain when used to create a 1/2" long, ~1/8" deep incision
into a section of calloused skin and the underlying healthy
tissue.

Enough of the medical saga and onto the real question: Are
there any suggestions for sharpening a blade under these
conditions that would have been either easier or better than
what I did?

TIA
Norm

Norm Dresner wrote:
Recently while I was traveling in a foreign country (Italy if it
matters), I had occasion to need to make the 1-1/2" knife blade on my
pocket knife as sharp as possible -- ideally "scalpel sharp". It's
night-time (about 10 pm local time) in an urban area and we're
heading back to our lodging. There are no nearby open stores. [Note:
there was an open pharmacy but it's just that -- they don't
carry razor blades there].
I finally decided to use a stone, brick, concrete, or similar surface
as a sharpening stone -- and I didn't have any facility for either
flattening whatever I choose or even measuring flatness except by eye
or feel. I finally found a small area on the corner of a stone
building that felt smooth and flat enough and I used some available
moisture to perform a honing operation until the blade felt smooth
and sharp enough -- measured totally qualitatively by running it
across the surface of my thumb-nail.
We went back to the lodging, boiled water which we used to
"sterilize" the blade and performed our makeshift surgery fairly
successfully -- the blade was, in fact, sharp enough that there was
no pain when used to create a 1/2" long, ~1/8" deep incision into a
section of calloused skin and the underlying healthy tissue.

Enough of the medical saga and onto the real question: Are there any
suggestions for sharpening a blade under these conditions that would
have been either easier or better than what I did?

TIA
Norm

I often use the top edge of a car window to touch up my knives . The milled
edge makes an *excellent* finish hone ...

--
Snag aka OSG #1
'76 FLH "Bag Lady"
BS132 SENS NEWT
"A hand shift is a manly shift ."
shamelessly stolen
none to one to reply

On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 16:07:44 GMT, "Norm Dresner"
wrote:

Recently while I was traveling in a foreign country (Italy if it matters), I
had occasion to need to make the 1-1/2" knife blade on my pocket knife as
sharp as possible -- ideally "scalpel sharp". It's night-time (about 10 pm
local time) in an urban area and we're heading back to our lodging. There
are no nearby open stores. [Note: there was an open pharmacy but it's just
that -- they don't carry razor blades there].

I finally decided to use a stone, brick, concrete, or similar surface as a
sharpening stone -- and I didn't have any facility for either flattening
whatever I choose or even measuring flatness except by eye or feel. I
finally found a small area on the corner of a stone building that felt
smooth and flat enough and I used some available moisture to perform a
honing operation until the blade felt smooth and sharp enough -- measured
totally qualitatively by running it across the surface of my thumb-nail.

We went back to the lodging, boiled water which we used to "sterilize" the
blade and performed our makeshift surgery fairly successfully -- the blade
was, in fact, sharp enough that there was no pain when used to create a 1/2"
long, ~1/8" deep incision into a section of calloused skin and the
underlying healthy tissue.

Enough of the medical saga and onto the real question: Are there any
suggestions for sharpening a blade under these conditions that would have
been either easier or better than what I did?

TIA
Norm

After your sharpening, I would have stropped it on a leather belt or
boot.

"Leo Lichtman" writes:

Possibly finding another building with an even smoother stone to finish up.

And remember not to skip a grit! :-)

Now where did I put that 220 building......

--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 16:07:44 GMT, "Norm Dresner"
wrote:

Recently while I was traveling in a foreign country (Italy if it matters), I
had occasion to need to make the 1-1/2" knife blade on my pocket knife as
sharp as possible -- ideally "scalpel sharp". It's night-time (about 10 pm
local time) in an urban area and we're heading back to our lodging. There
are no nearby open stores. [Note: there was an open pharmacy but it's just
that -- they don't carry razor blades there].

I finally decided to use a stone, brick, concrete, or similar surface as a
sharpening stone -- and I didn't have any facility for either flattening
whatever I choose or even measuring flatness except by eye or feel. I
finally found a small area on the corner of a stone building that felt
smooth and flat enough and I used some available moisture to perform a
honing operation until the blade felt smooth and sharp enough -- measured
totally qualitatively by running it across the surface of my thumb-nail.

We went back to the lodging, boiled water which we used to "sterilize" the
blade and performed our makeshift surgery fairly successfully -- the blade
was, in fact, sharp enough that there was no pain when used to create a 1/2"
long, ~1/8" deep incision into a section of calloused skin and the
underlying healthy tissue.

Enough of the medical saga and onto the real question: Are there any
suggestions for sharpening a blade under these conditions that would have
been either easier or better than what I did?

TIA
Norm

The unglazed bottom ring of a porceline coffee cup is one of my old
standbys

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

Norm Dresner wrote:
Recently while I was traveling in a foreign country (Italy if it
matters), I had occasion to need to make the 1-1/2" knife blade on my
pocket knife as sharp as possible -- ideally "scalpel sharp".

I have a folding diamond hone by DMT approx. 5"x1"x1/2". (The handles
fold over the sharpening surface. You should carry one in your fanny
pack or lugage.

Ted

har har.

my dad was denied access to his airplane because his keys included a
craftsman folding pliers/screwdriver thing with no knife blade.
He was the pilot and sole occupant of his 1941 Taylorcraft.

"axolotl" wrote in message
...
Brian Paul Ehni wrote:

On a side note, a good friend and fellow modeler is a Captain with Delta,
who used to fly with a full toolbox to work on things in his hotel room
at
night. He's now not allowed to fly with the dangerous #11 Xatco blades,
etc.

Just think what might happen it he took control of the aircraft!

Kevin Gallimore

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Newsgroups
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Keywords:
In article 3gHhf.22879$sg5.645@dukeread12, "DanG" wrote:
The bottom rim of many ceramic things - coffee cups come to mind,
are similar to ceramic crock sticks. A stroke or two on the
inside rim of a glass and a honing stroke on a belt of leather
boot top should get you "operating".

Inside of a toilet tank? Or the cover?

Doug White

On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 16:07:44 GMT, "Norm Dresner"
wrote:

Recently while I was traveling in a foreign country (Italy if it matters), I
had occasion to need to make the 1-1/2" knife blade on my pocket knife as
sharp as possible -- ideally "scalpel sharp". It's night-time (about 10 pm
local time) in an urban area and we're heading back to our lodging. There
are no nearby open stores. [Note: there was an open pharmacy but it's just
that -- they don't carry razor blades there].

I finally decided to use a stone, brick, concrete, or similar surface as a
sharpening stone -- and I didn't have any facility for either flattening
whatever I choose or even measuring flatness except by eye or feel. I
finally found a small area on the corner of a stone building that felt
smooth and flat enough and I used some available moisture to perform a
honing operation until the blade felt smooth and sharp enough -- measured
totally qualitatively by running it across the surface of my thumb-nail.

We went back to the lodging, boiled water which we used to "sterilize" the
blade and performed our makeshift surgery fairly successfully -- the blade
was, in fact, sharp enough that there was no pain when used to create a 1/2"
long, ~1/8" deep incision into a section of calloused skin and the
underlying healthy tissue.

Enough of the medical saga and onto the real question: Are there any
suggestions for sharpening a blade under these conditions that would have
been either easier or better than what I did?

TIA
Norm
In a pinch, freshly broken glass can provide a cutting edge.
Grandfather used to use a piece of glass to finish wooden handles,
also to remove the glaze and improve the grip after much use.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message

The unglazed bottom ring of a porceline coffee cup is one of my old
standbys

Gunner

Works best if you mount the knife on linear bearings...

I have a sandstone (figured naturally) water catcher to put my cups on - shop and house.
I sharpen and clean the bottoms of the cups that way for the medium work and then to the
ceramic rods. Those are only in the shop.

Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 16:07:44 GMT, "Norm Dresner"
wrote:


Recently while I was traveling in a foreign country (Italy if it matters), I
had occasion to need to make the 1-1/2" knife blade on my pocket knife as
sharp as possible -- ideally "scalpel sharp". It's night-time (about 10 pm
local time) in an urban area and we're heading back to our lodging. There
are no nearby open stores. [Note: there was an open pharmacy but it's just
that -- they don't carry razor blades there].

I finally decided to use a stone, brick, concrete, or similar surface as a
sharpening stone -- and I didn't have any facility for either flattening
whatever I choose or even measuring flatness except by eye or feel. I
finally found a small area on the corner of a stone building that felt
smooth and flat enough and I used some available moisture to perform a
honing operation until the blade felt smooth and sharp enough -- measured
totally qualitatively by running it across the surface of my thumb-nail.

We went back to the lodging, boiled water which we used to "sterilize" the
blade and performed our makeshift surgery fairly successfully -- the blade
was, in fact, sharp enough that there was no pain when used to create a 1/2"
long, ~1/8" deep incision into a section of calloused skin and the
underlying healthy tissue.

Enough of the medical saga and onto the real question: Are there any
suggestions for sharpening a blade under these conditions that would have
been either easier or better than what I did?

TIA
Norm


The unglazed bottom ring of a porceline coffee cup is one of my old
standbys

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

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http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

Gerald Miller wrote:

On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 16:07:44 GMT, "Norm Dresner"
wrote:

Recently while I was traveling in a foreign country (Italy if it matters),
I had occasion to need to make the 1-1/2" knife blade on my pocket knife
as
sharp as possible -- ideally "scalpel sharp". It's night-time (about 10
pm
local time) in an urban area and we're heading back to our lodging. There
are no nearby open stores. [Note: there was an open pharmacy but it's
just that -- they don't carry razor blades there].

I finally decided to use a stone, brick, concrete, or similar surface as a
sharpening stone -- and I didn't have any facility for either flattening
whatever I choose or even measuring flatness except by eye or feel. I
finally found a small area on the corner of a stone building that felt
smooth and flat enough and I used some available moisture to perform a
honing operation until the blade felt smooth and sharp enough -- measured
totally qualitatively by running it across the surface of my thumb-nail.

We went back to the lodging, boiled water which we used to "sterilize" the
blade and performed our makeshift surgery fairly successfully -- the blade
was, in fact, sharp enough that there was no pain when used to create a
1/2" long, ~1/8" deep incision into a section of calloused skin and the
underlying healthy tissue.

Enough of the medical saga and onto the real question: Are there any
suggestions for sharpening a blade under these conditions that would have
been either easier or better than what I did?

TIA
Norm
In a pinch, freshly broken glass can provide a cutting edge.
Grandfather used to use a piece of glass to finish wooden handles,
also to remove the glaze and improve the grip after much use.

If you want to be hardcore you could learn how to knap a blade out of a
bottle http://www.geocities.com/knappersanonymous/bottle.html.

Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Gerald Miller

In a pinch, freshly broken glass can provide a cutting edge.
Grandfather used to use a piece of glass to finish wooden handles,
also to remove the glaze and improve the grip after much use.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

My dad used several different shaped peices of broken glass to
scrape gun stocks prior to refinishing them. This was about
60 yrs ago.
...lew...

On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 16:21:48 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Norm
Dresner" quickly quoth:

Fortunately the blade was reasonably sharp before we left on the trip and I
had no expectation of ever needing to do that sort of thing by myself or I
would have at least packed a single-edge razor blade or two into the checked
luggage.

Out of curiosity, what was your reason for intentionally cutting
through calloused skin into healthy tissue with your knife, Norm?
(I've accidentally done that removing callouses, but never on
purpose.)

Your sharpening method was fine, BTW. Whatever works, BUT, you might
want to include a 1200 grit diamond plate on your next trip. Diamond
removes metal quickly (for chip removal) and sharpens VERY fast.

I own both DMT and EzeLap plates, preferring the pricier DMTs.
A Grizzly diamond cone comes in handy for edge tools.
www.dmtsharp.com www.ezelap.com

DMT sells some handy pocket-sized hones. Minsharp and Diafold.
http://www.allprotools.com/store/dmt_index.htm

I have 2 600 grit 2x6" diamond plates for home and shop use, with
which I start any knife or cutter edge. 600 will do in a pinch on the
road and for most non-surgical uses. It's perfect for kitchen knives.

Alternatively, carry a pack of Scary Sharp(tm) paper with you and use
any flat surface under it.
http://www.shavings.net/SCARY.HTM#original


-
In nature's infinite book of secrecy a little I can read. -Shakespeare
------
http://diversify.com Website Application & Database Development

In article XqNhf.209841$ir4.110405@edtnps90, Ted Edwards says...

Norm Dresner wrote:
Recently while I was traveling in a foreign country (Italy if it
matters), I had occasion to need to make the 1-1/2" knife blade on my
pocket knife as sharp as possible -- ideally "scalpel sharp".

I have a folding diamond hone by DMT approx. 5"x1"x1/2". (The handles
fold over the sharpening surface. You should carry one in your fanny
pack or lugage.

Second this. Those things work *great*.

I have a coarse, medium, and fine set for work. I do
my pocketknife whenever it needs it.

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 16:21:48 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Norm
Dresner" quickly quoth:

Fortunately the blade was reasonably sharp before we left on the trip and
I
had no expectation of ever needing to do that sort of thing by myself or I
would have at least packed a single-edge razor blade or two into the
checked
luggage.

Out of curiosity, what was your reason for intentionally cutting
through calloused skin into healthy tissue with your knife, Norm?
(I've accidentally done that removing callouses, but never on
purpose.)

I had an infected "hangnail" that was spreading to the adjacent fingertip
and the only way to treat it is to drain the infected area. It's exactly
what a surgeon did in an ER for me at home a few years ago.


Your sharpening method was fine, BTW. Whatever works, BUT, you might
want to include a 1200 grit diamond plate on your next trip. Diamond
removes metal quickly (for chip removal) and sharpens VERY fast.

Actually, I just realized that there's probably a diamond "emery" board in
my wife's cosmetic bag!


I'm not going to change what I carry because of a very unusual occurrence.
If we all did that, the plane would never get off the ground.

Norm

On Sun, 27 Nov 2005 16:49:38 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Norm
Dresner" quickly quoth:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
Out of curiosity, what was your reason for intentionally cutting
through calloused skin into healthy tissue with your knife, Norm?
(I've accidentally done that removing callouses, but never on
purpose.)

I had an infected "hangnail" that was spreading to the adjacent fingertip
and the only way to treat it is to drain the infected area. It's exactly
what a surgeon did in an ER for me at home a few years ago.

Good reason. Ouch! Whuffo you let it get infected, huh, huh, huh?
gd&r


Your sharpening method was fine, BTW. Whatever works, BUT, you might
want to include a 1200 grit diamond plate on your next trip. Diamond
removes metal quickly (for chip removal) and sharpens VERY fast.

Actually, I just realized that there's probably a diamond "emery" board in
my wife's cosmetic bag!

While it might work once, you'll have to buy her another one when
you're done. But if it's anything like the one Mom gave to me, it
won't be allowed on the airplane. It had a point and was 6" of metal.
My sharp 9" pencil sailed right through. Go figure...


I'm not going to change what I carry because of a very unusual occurrence.
If we all did that, the plane would never get off the ground.

That's what the PTB want: total control of the population.
(Powers That Be)


---
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http://diversify.com Web Applications

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Nov 2005 16:49:38 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Norm
Dresner" quickly quoth:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
Out of curiosity, what was your reason for intentionally cutting
through calloused skin into healthy tissue with your knife, Norm?
(I've accidentally done that removing callouses, but never on
purpose.)

I had an infected "hangnail" that was spreading to the adjacent fingertip
and the only way to treat it is to drain the infected area. It's exactly
what a surgeon did in an ER for me at home a few years ago.

Good reason. Ouch! Whuffo you let it get infected, huh, huh, huh?
gd&r


I hadn't been aware of anything wrong in the morning and around noon
something slammed against my finger. It hurt but again I didn't notice
anything until about 5 PM it was starting to really hurt and swell up. I
tried some antibiotic cream but it couldn't get in there and by 11 PM we cut
it open to let it drain.

Yes, OUCH!

Norm

Has he finished them yet?

"Gerald Miller" wrote: In a pinch, freshly broken glass can provide a
cutting edge. Grandfather used to use a piece of glass to finish wooden
handles, also to remove the glaze and improve the grip after much use.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I can see how a broken glass edge might make an excellent scraper, but for
surgery, I doubt it.

Actually, obsidian glass is used to make a very fine edged scalpel for
surgery on eyes and other very small parts as it can cut a very clean
(no tearing) cut with almost no resistance.

Jim

Leo Lichtman wrote:
"Gerald Miller" wrote: In a pinch, freshly broken glass can provide a
cutting edge. Grandfather used to use a piece of glass to finish wooden
handles, also to remove the glaze and improve the grip after much use.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I can see how a broken glass edge might make an excellent scraper, but for
surgery, I doubt it.

"James Askew" wrote: Actually, obsidian glass is used to make a very fine
edged scalpel for surgery on eyes and other very small parts as it can cut
a very clean (no tearing) cut with almost no resistance.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I was referring to the edge *as broken.* Thanks for the info. I'm sure
most of us didn't know that obsidian was used to make fine scalpels.

On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 18:10:38 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:


"Gerald Miller" wrote: In a pinch, freshly broken glass can provide a
cutting edge. Grandfather used to use a piece of glass to finish wooden
handles, also to remove the glaze and improve the grip after much use.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I can see how a broken glass edge might make an excellent scraper, but for
surgery, I doubt it.

Ever heard of obsidian scalpals? See:
http://www.gc.maricopa.edu/earthsci/...e/obsidian.htm

Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On 26 Nov 2005 19:12:15 -0800, jim rozen
wrote:

In article XqNhf.209841$ir4.110405@edtnps90, Ted Edwards says...

Norm Dresner wrote:
Recently while I was traveling in a foreign country (Italy if it
matters), I had occasion to need to make the 1-1/2" knife blade on my
pocket knife as sharp as possible -- ideally "scalpel sharp".

I have a folding diamond hone by DMT approx. 5"x1"x1/2". (The handles
fold over the sharpening surface. You should carry one in your fanny
pack or lugage.

Second this. Those things work *great*.

I have a coarse, medium, and fine set for work. I do
my pocketknife whenever it needs it.

Depends on the blade. Diamond is good for restoring an edge -- but a
good blade should not need edge reshaping very often, maybe every few
months with frequent use.

A smooth hard steel rod works well. Leather strop works well for a
very fine edge, but not an edge durable enough for a pocket blade.
I like a crock stick, and I second Gunner's approached of unglazed
porcelain as a very servicable field expedient -- if the edge is in
reasonably good shape to begin with. If coffee is only available in
plastic cups, then chip the urinal....

On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 18:10:38 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:


"Gerald Miller" wrote: In a pinch, freshly broken glass can provide a
cutting edge. Grandfather used to use a piece of glass to finish wooden
handles, also to remove the glaze and improve the grip after much use.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I can see how a broken glass edge might make an excellent scraper, but for
surgery, I doubt it.

Believe it. The trick is in getting a edge rather than a shear
break. Whacking a pane on a rock as if to slice the rock with the
pane can result in sharp shards. This is best done holding the
pane in cloth because smaller shards will fly. The cloth also
makes the process quiet if that matters.

On Tue, 29 Nov 2005 00:50:10 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On 26 Nov 2005 19:12:15 -0800, jim rozen
wrote:

In article XqNhf.209841$ir4.110405@edtnps90, Ted Edwards says...

Norm Dresner wrote:
Recently while I was traveling in a foreign country (Italy if it
matters), I had occasion to need to make the 1-1/2" knife blade on my
pocket knife as sharp as possible -- ideally "scalpel sharp".

I have a folding diamond hone by DMT approx. 5"x1"x1/2". (The handles
fold over the sharpening surface. You should carry one in your fanny
pack or lugage.

Second this. Those things work *great*.

I have a coarse, medium, and fine set for work. I do
my pocketknife whenever it needs it.

Depends on the blade. Diamond is good for restoring an edge -- but a
good blade should not need edge reshaping very often, maybe every few
months with frequent use.

A smooth hard steel rod works well. Leather strop works well for a
very fine edge, but not an edge durable enough for a pocket blade.
I like a crock stick, and I second Gunner's approached of unglazed
porcelain as a very servicable field expedient -- if the edge is in
reasonably good shape to begin with. If coffee is only available in
plastic cups, then chip the urinal....

The upper lip of most toilet tanks is unglazed..
Another poster reminded me of it..and I had to go check both of
mine..and indeed, I freshed an edge on one of the three knives I
normally carry on the edge of the guest bathroom terlet.

Now in a hotel..commercial fixtures..I couldnt say.

Gunner


"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

On Tue, 29 Nov 2005 01:02:01 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 18:10:38 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:


"Gerald Miller" wrote: In a pinch, freshly broken glass can provide a
cutting edge. Grandfather used to use a piece of glass to finish wooden
handles, also to remove the glaze and improve the grip after much use.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I can see how a broken glass edge might make an excellent scraper, but for
surgery, I doubt it.

Believe it. The trick is in getting a edge rather than a shear
break. Whacking a pane on a rock as if to slice the rock with the
pane can result in sharp shards. This is best done holding the
pane in cloth because smaller shards will fly. The cloth also
makes the process quiet if that matters.



Yall may find this of interest..some of us survivalists tend to delve
into the estoteric....

http://www.geocities.com/knappersanonymous/bottle.html
http://cavemanchemistry.com/cavebook/chstone3.html


Btw..the second link has other interesting things on it..recommended

Gunner, who never could flake worth a damn using deer antler..


"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

In article , Gunner Asch says...

Gunner, who never could flake worth a damn using deer antler..

You should go talk to my brother. He does that sort of thing...

http://www.ele.net/workshop99/images99.htm

He used to have to haul trashcan loads of stone debris to the
dump from his house in tucson....

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 29 Nov 2005 00:50:10 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On 26 Nov 2005 19:12:15 -0800, jim rozen
wrote:

In article XqNhf.209841$ir4.110405@edtnps90, Ted Edwards says...

Norm Dresner wrote:
Recently while I was traveling in a foreign country (Italy if it
matters), I had occasion to need to make the 1-1/2" knife blade on my
pocket knife as sharp as possible -- ideally "scalpel sharp".

I have a folding diamond hone by DMT approx. 5"x1"x1/2". (The handles
fold over the sharpening surface. You should carry one in your fanny
pack or lugage.

Second this. Those things work *great*.

I have a coarse, medium, and fine set for work. I do
my pocketknife whenever it needs it.

Depends on the blade. Diamond is good for restoring an edge -- but a
good blade should not need edge reshaping very often, maybe every few
months with frequent use.

A smooth hard steel rod works well. Leather strop works well for a
very fine edge, but not an edge durable enough for a pocket blade.
I like a crock stick, and I second Gunner's approached of unglazed
porcelain as a very servicable field expedient -- if the edge is in
reasonably good shape to begin with. If coffee is only available in
plastic cups, then chip the urinal....

The upper lip of most toilet tanks is unglazed..

In this country, yes. In Italy, some toilets weren't obvious how to
dismantle them.

Great Link!

Thanks for that one.

Adam Smith,
Midland, ON, Canada
"jim rozen" wrote in message
...
In article , Gunner Asch
says...

Gunner, who never could flake worth a damn using deer antler..

You should go talk to my brother. He does that sort of thing...

http://www.ele.net/workshop99/images99.htm

He used to have to haul trashcan loads of stone debris to the
dump from his house in tucson....

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

Thanks, Gunner. cavemanchemistry.com is a really interesting site.

On 2 Dec 2005 09:04:52 -0800, wrote:

Thanks, Gunner. cavemanchemistry.com is a really interesting site.


btw..I used httTracker to suck down the entire section. Took a
while..lots of data there.

Gunner, who will burn it to cd

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner