I am asking for some expert and experienced help because I cannot cut a true
or repeatable 90 degree cut on my tablesaw.

I have been trying to cut some quartersawn white oak( 3/4" thick and 4"
wide) to final dimensions but cannot get a true 90 cross cut. If I do luck
out and get one, the next cut is a fraction of a degree off from a true
right angle.

Out of frustration I even bought an Incra miter fence (to replace the cheesy
Sear one) and spent all morning aligning it only to find I still can't make
the 90 cut. The cuts start out true but seem to wander toards to outside of
the blade at the end of the cut (last 1 to 1-1/2 ")

Some data:
Craftsman 10" contractor saw
Freud Diablo think kerf blade
Incra Miter fence

I did:
Make sure the blade is aligned to the miter slots
Set the Incra miter gauge perpendicular to the blade.
Clamp the wood to the fence to avoid movement
I don't force the wood too fast
Joined bothedges of teh board so I know I am not transferring one inacuracy
to another.


Apprecaite your advice or thoughts on how to tackle this. Thanks
Ken in Virginia Beach

"Sheckster" wrote in message
news:cewng.58157$9c6.10830@dukeread11...

Some data:
Craftsman 10" contractor saw
Freud Diablo think kerf blade
Incra Miter fence

I did:
Make sure the blade is aligned to the miter slots
Set the Incra miter gauge perpendicular to the blade.
Clamp the wood to the fence to avoid movement
I don't force the wood too fast
Joined bothedges of teh board so I know I am not transferring one
inacuracy to another.

Most likely its the think kerf blade that is causing your problems. Thin
kerf blades flex easily.

"Sheckster" wrote in message

Joined bothedges of teh board so I know I am not transferring one
inacuracy
to another.

Your problem may be cumulative, and the above may be another source of your
problem.

Jointing both edges of the wood will not guarantee parallel edges, and
without parallel edges you won't measure a 90 a degree cut from both edges.

Jointing one edge, then ripping the opposite, is the correct method ...
assuming your table saw is aligned correctly.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 6/21/06

I had a Sears for many years. The miter slot on the left side of the
blade had some slop, in the middle of the table, you may want to check
yours.

I've not used the Incra, or found a miter gauge thats accurate enough
for cabinet work. Make a miter sled.

As also mentioned, and I agree, a thin kerf blade should not be used
for your application.


Sheckster wrote:
I am asking for some expert and experienced help because I cannot cut a true
or repeatable 90 degree cut on my tablesaw.

I have been trying to cut some quartersawn white oak( 3/4" thick and 4"
wide) to final dimensions but cannot get a true 90 cross cut. If I do luck
out and get one, the next cut is a fraction of a degree off from a true
right angle.

Out of frustration I even bought an Incra miter fence (to replace the cheesy
Sear one) and spent all morning aligning it only to find I still can't make
the 90 cut. The cuts start out true but seem to wander toards to outside of
the blade at the end of the cut (last 1 to 1-1/2 ")

Some data:
Craftsman 10" contractor saw
Freud Diablo think kerf blade
Incra Miter fence

I did:
Make sure the blade is aligned to the miter slots
Set the Incra miter gauge perpendicular to the blade.
Clamp the wood to the fence to avoid movement
I don't force the wood too fast
Joined bothedges of teh board so I know I am not transferring one inacuracy
to another.


Apprecaite your advice or thoughts on how to tackle this. Thanks
Ken in Virginia Beach

This is mostly a "ME TOO" post. You've gotten some good feedback already.

I also have a TS that allows the miter gauge to rattle in the groove in certain places. Build a
sled and you'll never have to worry about it again.

I second dumping the thin kerf blade. I also have an inexpensive saw (begin drive-by....until next
weekend when I pick up all 460 lbs of my Jet 3hp beauty...end drive-by) and went the thin kerf route
myself for a while. Then picked up an Oldham signature blade at the WW show a few years back, and
was very pleasantly surprised at how much it improved my cuts. It's a good blade for the money, and
takes an eighth kerf. Stabilizer/silencer that came with it may have helped too. I haven't tried
any of the Freud blades, but some folks swear by them.

The way you describe only the last inch or two being off, makes me think that it is the blade
deflecting just a bit. The other possible cause of deflection that comes to mind is in the case of
the table saw if it is made out of thin sheet metal. I don't suppose there are any loose screws or
anything in the actual arbor/motor mounting assembly to the table top, are there?

Hope something in here helps.

Regards,
Roy



On Sun, 25 Jun 2006 09:30:43 -0400, "Sheckster" wrote:

I am asking for some expert and experienced help because I cannot cut a true
or repeatable 90 degree cut on my tablesaw.

I have been trying to cut some quartersawn white oak( 3/4" thick and 4"
wide) to final dimensions but cannot get a true 90 cross cut. If I do luck
out and get one, the next cut is a fraction of a degree off from a true
right angle.

Out of frustration I even bought an Incra miter fence (to replace the cheesy
Sear one) and spent all morning aligning it only to find I still can't make
the 90 cut. The cuts start out true but seem to wander toards to outside of
the blade at the end of the cut (last 1 to 1-1/2 ")

Some data:
Craftsman 10" contractor saw
Freud Diablo think kerf blade
Incra Miter fence

I did:
Make sure the blade is aligned to the miter slots
Set the Incra miter gauge perpendicular to the blade.
Clamp the wood to the fence to avoid movement
I don't force the wood too fast
Joined bothedges of teh board so I know I am not transferring one inacuracy
to another.


Apprecaite your advice or thoughts on how to tackle this. Thanks
Ken in Virginia Beach

I might as well try using a wet fish in my cast-Al guides.



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

"Sheckster" wrote in message
news:cewng.58157$9c6.10830@dukeread11...
snip
The cuts start out true but seem to wander toards to outside of
the blade at the end of the cut (last 1 to 1-1/2 ")

You've gotten some excellent advice so far but the above statement
points to another possibility - arbor movement. With the saw
unplugged remove the throat plate and try to move the blade from
side to side. You're not looking for blade flex here but rather if the
arbor is moving in and out of it's mountings. No movement is good.
Any movement means either that the bearings are bad or that you
have a loose mechanism that holds the arbor the the bearing. Often
this is just a setscrew which is easily tightened.

Art

Thx for all the great tips and gouge. I've rechecked the arbor and it tight
so the blade must be a bit flexible. Alignment too.

Reverted to my old cross cut sled and it worked like a charm. So much for
$100+ off the shelf stuff. Like you all said, make it yourself and you'll
know it works.

Appreciate the goups help and advice.


"Wood Butcher" wrote in message
. ..

"Sheckster" wrote in message
news:cewng.58157$9c6.10830@dukeread11...
snip
The cuts start out true but seem to wander toards to outside of
the blade at the end of the cut (last 1 to 1-1/2 ")

You've gotten some excellent advice so far but the above statement
points to another possibility - arbor movement. With the saw
unplugged remove the throat plate and try to move the blade from
side to side. You're not looking for blade flex here but rather if the
arbor is moving in and out of it's mountings. No movement is good.
Any movement means either that the bearings are bad or that you
have a loose mechanism that holds the arbor the the bearing. Often
this is just a setscrew which is easily tightened.

Art