This is mostly a "ME TOO" post. You've gotten some good feedback already.

I also have a TS that allows the miter gauge to rattle in the groove in certain places. Build a
sled and you'll never have to worry about it again.

I second dumping the thin kerf blade. I also have an inexpensive saw (begin drive-by....until next
weekend when I pick up all 460 lbs of my Jet 3hp beauty...end drive-by) and went the thin kerf route
myself for a while. Then picked up an Oldham signature blade at the WW show a few years back, and
was very pleasantly surprised at how much it improved my cuts. It's a good blade for the money, and
takes an eighth kerf. Stabilizer/silencer that came with it may have helped too. I haven't tried
any of the Freud blades, but some folks swear by them.

The way you describe only the last inch or two being off, makes me think that it is the blade
deflecting just a bit. The other possible cause of deflection that comes to mind is in the case of
the table saw if it is made out of thin sheet metal. I don't suppose there are any loose screws or
anything in the actual arbor/motor mounting assembly to the table top, are there?

Hope something in here helps.

Regards,
Roy



On Sun, 25 Jun 2006 09:30:43 -0400, "Sheckster" wrote:

I am asking for some expert and experienced help because I cannot cut a true
or repeatable 90 degree cut on my tablesaw.

I have been trying to cut some quartersawn white oak( 3/4" thick and 4"
wide) to final dimensions but cannot get a true 90 cross cut. If I do luck
out and get one, the next cut is a fraction of a degree off from a true
right angle.

Out of frustration I even bought an Incra miter fence (to replace the cheesy
Sear one) and spent all morning aligning it only to find I still can't make
the 90 cut. The cuts start out true but seem to wander toards to outside of
the blade at the end of the cut (last 1 to 1-1/2 ")

Some data:
Craftsman 10" contractor saw
Freud Diablo think kerf blade
Incra Miter fence

I did:
Make sure the blade is aligned to the miter slots
Set the Incra miter gauge perpendicular to the blade.
Clamp the wood to the fence to avoid movement
I don't force the wood too fast
Joined bothedges of teh board so I know I am not transferring one inacuracy
to another.


Apprecaite your advice or thoughts on how to tackle this. Thanks
Ken in Virginia Beach