Just curious as to the trade-offs between these 2 DW screw types. The
coarse thread seem much faster when putting together something, but I wonder
what I am giving up.

I know that real wood screws are better, but sometimes a DW will suffice.
Thanks.

"Buck Turgidson" wrote in message
news:Ob1cg.78151$gE.18334@dukeread06...
Just curious as to the trade-offs between these 2 DW screw types. The
coarse thread seem much faster when putting together something, but I
wonder what I am giving up.

I know that real wood screws are better, but sometimes a DW will suffice.
Thanks.


Strength is what you give up when using any dry wall screw except when
hanging sheet rock.

I believe the fine thread DW screws are for steel studs.

--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

On Sun, 21 May 2006 13:12:21 -0400, "Buck Turgidson"
wrote:

Just curious as to the trade-offs between these 2 DW screw types. The
coarse thread seem much faster when putting together something, but I wonder
what I am giving up.

I know that real wood screws are better, but sometimes a DW will suffice.
Thanks.



Course thread is better for soft woods. Fine thread requires more
turns, less force, to drive them home.

wrote:
I believe the fine thread DW screws are for steel studs.

Walk into any hardware store or big box store and
look at what it says on the boxes. They all say
that fine threads are for steel studs and coarse
threads are meant for wood.

using DW screws for wood, one would best use
coarse threads, especially for soft woods, but
fine threads seem ok for hard woods. (Note my use
of hard and soft here mean density not type of tree)

Leon wrote:

Strength is what you give up when using any dry wall screw except when
hanging sheet rock.

You know everyone says that they're really brittle, but I've never
snapped or broken a drywall screw. In my experience the driver head
cams out first.

I believe there is a place for drywall screws with sheet goods, as the
threads are sharper and finer than most wood screws, which seems to
leave more material to grip the screw. I built a really crude set of
shelves to support my home theater receiver, VCR, DVD player, etc. using
MDF and butt joints with drywall screws. No glue even. So far it's
held up for about 5 years.

Chris

"Buck Turgidson" wrote in message
news:Ob1cg.78151$gE.18334@dukeread06...
Just curious as to the trade-offs between these 2 DW screw types. The
coarse thread seem much faster when putting together something, but I
wonder what I am giving up.

I know that real wood screws are better, but sometimes a DW will suffice.

I assume you're talking the generic, rather than actual drywall screws.
Most all of the newer screws follow the pattern of what originally arrived
on the scene as drywall screws.

Finer threads for denser material, as indicated, but flake and chipboard are
something else. .

Big disadvantage to the actual drywall screw is that it lacks a smooth shank
to pull up the piece being attached, a shortcoming which can even overcome a
careless clamp job. This shank is also where they pick up what seems, in
the main, to be a bad rap about breaking off. You can actually bend
non-drywall types now, so the smaller section under the head versus the old
style screw is less of a snap factor.

"Chris Friesen" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:

You know everyone says that they're really brittle, but I've never snapped
or broken a drywall screw. In my experience the driver head cams out
first.

They are brittle and made to go into soft construction grade material. I
discovered dry wall screw in the late 70's and broke plenty. Caming out is
a problem also and it typically is the only thing that protects the screw
from breaking.


I believe there is a place for drywall screws with sheet goods, as the
threads are sharper and finer than most wood screws, which seems to leave
more material to grip the screw. I built a really crude set of shelves to
support my home theater receiver, VCR, DVD player, etc. using MDF and butt
joints with drywall screws. No glue even. So far it's held up for about
5 years.

Lots of people get the same results with the cheapo plastic bagged screws
offered at the Borg. Proper screws bought in quantity are inexpensive. Why
not use the correct screw?

"Leon" wrote in message

offered at the Borg. Proper screws bought in quantity are inexpensive.
Why
not use the correct screw?


And I, for one, won't be buying any more Rockler screws ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/6/06

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

And I, for one, won't be buying any more Rockler screws ...


Arguably, anyone shopping at Rockler gets screwed....

"George" George@least wrote in message
...

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

And I, for one, won't be buying any more Rockler screws ...


Arguably, anyone shopping at Rockler gets screwed....


I always felt that way however now that there is a store in Houston I get
all kinds of 25% off coupons and their sales tend to be pretty good. The
Quart TiteBond III for $6.99 is a good deal and 1/2 off all screws including
Kreg is not bad. I have never bought their house brand screws, I only use
McFeeley unless I buy Kreg.

Buck Turgidson wrote:

Just curious as to the trade-offs between these 2 DW screw types. The
coarse thread seem much faster when putting together something, but I
wonder what I am giving up.

I know that real wood screws are better, but sometimes a DW will suffice.
Thanks.

I've always found that coarse drywall screws break coarsely and fine drywall
screws break finely.