I find when ripping 1"kiln dried birch my blade does a bit of wandering. I
tried a 36 tooth flat tooth for ripping and a 40 tooth atb for comparison
and they both do it. Both blade a sharp. Is this normal, would blade
stabilizers help prevent this? Does not do it with pine.

"mark" wrote in message
...
I find when ripping 1"kiln dried birch my blade does a bit of wandering. I
tried a 36 tooth flat tooth for ripping and a 40 tooth atb for comparison
and they both do it. Both blade a sharp. Is this normal, would blade
stabilizers help prevent this? Does not do it with pine.

If you are using a thin kerf blade consider stabilizers. Is the board flat?
Are you using feather boards in front of the blade? Is the fence parallel
to the blade?

"Leon" wrote in message
. net...

"mark" wrote in message
...
I find when ripping 1"kiln dried birch my blade does a bit of wandering. I
tried a 36 tooth flat tooth for ripping and a 40 tooth atb for comparison
and they both do it. Both blade a sharp. Is this normal, would blade
stabilizers help prevent this? Does not do it with pine.

If you are using a thin kerf blade consider stabilizers. Is the board
flat? Are you using feather boards in front of the blade? Is the fence
parallel to the blade?

Are you sure that it is the blades? If both blades wobble would check to
make sure that it isn't the saw. Have you given the saw a tune-up?

"mark" wrote in message
...
I find when ripping 1"kiln dried birch my blade does a bit of wandering. I
tried a 36 tooth flat tooth for ripping and a 40 tooth atb for comparison
and they both do it. Both blade a sharp. Is this normal, would blade
stabilizers help prevent this? Does not do it with pine.

Even cheap, thin blades should not wander. Wobble maybe but wander? Review
your ripping technique. DAGS - Check your blade - fence alignment. Get a
good quality ripping blade.

Dave



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mark wrote:
I find when ripping 1"kiln dried birch my blade does a bit of wandering. I
tried a 36 tooth flat tooth for ripping and a 40 tooth atb for comparison
and they both do it. Both blade a sharp. Is this normal, would blade
stabilizers help prevent this? Does not do it with pine.

I have to compensate for the flexibility of the fence on my proxxon
table saw, usually by clamping a piece of stock to the table behind it.

And, like Leon says, use a featherboard or similar to keep the board up
against the fence.

er
--
email not valid

The blade does not wander at all in soft wood or even thinner birch but the
thick 1" birch which actually bogs the motor down tend to make the blade
wander. I will try the feather board idea.

"Enoch Root" wrote in message
...
mark wrote:
I find when ripping 1"kiln dried birch my blade does a bit of wandering.
I
tried a 36 tooth flat tooth for ripping and a 40 tooth atb for comparison
and they both do it. Both blade a sharp. Is this normal, would blade
stabilizers help prevent this? Does not do it with pine.

I have to compensate for the flexibility of the fence on my proxxon
table saw, usually by clamping a piece of stock to the table behind it.

And, like Leon says, use a featherboard or similar to keep the board up
against the fence.

er
--
email not valid

If the motor bogs, feed slower. If the wood burns at that slow feed rate,
get a blade with less teeth.

"mark" wrote in message
...
The blade does not wander at all in soft wood or even thinner birch but
the
thick 1" birch which actually bogs the motor down tend to make the blade
wander. I will try the feather board idea.

"Enoch Root" wrote in message
...
mark wrote:
I find when ripping 1"kiln dried birch my blade does a bit of
wandering.
I
tried a 36 tooth flat tooth for ripping and a 40 tooth atb for
comparison
and they both do it. Both blade a sharp. Is this normal, would blade
stabilizers help prevent this? Does not do it with pine.

I have to compensate for the flexibility of the fence on my proxxon
table saw, usually by clamping a piece of stock to the table behind it.

And, like Leon says, use a featherboard or similar to keep the board up
against the fence.

er
--
email not valid