Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work I
usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they use in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one or more of these almost every day. The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for the height. Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15 degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that would help much either. Suggestions welcome. Norm |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
Do you have a wood lathe? It is a simple matter to cut tapers with it,
checking the fit as you go. Without a lathe I would use a coarse half round rasp to do the job. Bugs |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
I'm not sure what angle it is, but I've seen a drill bit that was designed
to cut candle holes. It might do for what you want (sorry, but I don't know where I saw it). You might also be able to modify a spade bit to the shape that you want with careful grinding of the edges to form the correct taper. -- Charley "Norm Dresner" wrote in message ... It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work I usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they use in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one or more of these almost every day. The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for the height. Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15 degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that would help much either. Suggestions welcome. Norm |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
Norm Dresner wrote:
It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work I usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they use in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one or more of these almost every day. The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for the height. Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15 degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that would help much either. Suggestions welcome. Norm How about a base made of 2 layers. the bottom layer would have an appropriatly sized hole to fit the bottom portion of the cups. dave |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
A strait hole will hold them just fine. Don't overcomplicate this. "Norm Dresner" wrote in message ... It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work I usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they use in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one or more of these almost every day. The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for the height. Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15 degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that would help much either. Suggestions welcome. Norm |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
"Norm Dresner" wrote in message
... It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work I usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they use in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one or more of these almost every day. The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for the height. Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15 degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that would help much either. Suggestions welcome. Why not epoxy some spare cups to a board, and then just drop (stack) your working cups into the fixed ones? |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
"Bugs" wrote in message
ups.com... | Do you have a wood lathe? It is a simple matter to cut tapers with it, | checking the fit as you go. Without a lathe I would use a coarse half | round rasp to do the job. | Bugs Alas, no. I have a radial arm saw, mini table saw, 9" band saw, bench drill press, ... but no lathe. Norm |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
"Greg Neill" wrote in message
... | "Norm Dresner" wrote in message | ... | It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work I | usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they use | in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint | thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one | or more of these almost every day. | | The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's | tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which | there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would | work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that | was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for | the height. | | Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I | could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these | seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more | elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15 | degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that | would help much either. | | Suggestions welcome. | | Why not epoxy some spare cups to a board, and then just drop | (stack) your working cups into the fixed ones? That's the simplest solution of all. Also, if I do want to get ambitious, modifying a spade bit is also a good suggestion. Thanks Norm |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
Norm Dresner wrote: | Why not epoxy some spare cups to a board, and then just drop | (stack) your working cups into the fixed ones? That's the simplest solution of all. But not the most elegant! I've done just a bit of googling and haven't found what I'm (you're) looking for. They make small tapered bits for pilot holes, and I've found some larger ones made for metal, but no dedicated ww'ing bits. I've got to figure that somebody makes them. Don't chair makers need bits like these? Also, if I do want to get ambitious, modifying a spade bit is also a good suggestion. Probably the least expensive as well. Now I want to find the real McCoy. JP |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
Fill spare cup with cement. Leave a threaded metal rod centered in the
concrete. You could do this by putting into a scrap board and balancing over the cup. When dried, glue some sandpaper to the outside of the cup. Chuck in the DP and Sand to size. However, I agree with the comment that you are over-thinking. A round hole should work fine. |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
FriscoSoxFan wrote:
However, I agree with the comment that you are over-thinking. A round hole should work fine. I'll third that emotion. I offered a suggestion earlier only because the OP seemed intent on having a tapered hole for the cups. I don't think it is at all necessary. Dave |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
i love the concrete idea.
standard tapers in machine tooling, including reamers, are Morse, Browne & Sharpe, Jarno, American National Standard Machine Tapers, American National Standard Taper Pipe. After consulting about seventeen cross-referenced tables I realized these won't help. large = expensive anyways. You could get an entire concrete truck delivered to the country. I've never even tried reaming wood. what am i doing? ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
This is not expert advise. If u want, take a paddle bit, and grind the
angle /^\ from|^|. Then, or at the same time, grind a sharp cutting arriss on the 2 side that touch first as it rotates. Maybe 45°. If you predrill, maybe with a hole saw, then you are cutting only on the side, and do not need to retain any front cutting edge. I can't think of the cutting edge on the face, don't know if thos lips are essential.^---^ ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
Norm Dresner wrote: It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work I usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they use in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one or more of these almost every day. The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for the height. Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15 degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that would help much either. Suggestions welcome. Build a tray to hold however many cups you need with a little room between each cup. The rim of the cups should be just a little higher than the top edge of the tray. Use a carpet tack, or similar, and nail the cups to the bottom of the tray, cups spaced as required. Pour plaster into the tray up to the top edge. Let set, pull carpet tacks, remove cups (no need to grease them - they'll pop out easily). R |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
Norm Dresner wrote:
snip I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15 degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that would help much either. Suggestions welcome. Norm There are 15 deg. tapered (chamfer) router bits readily available... http://www.infinitytools.com/products.asp?dept=1011 -- JeffB remove no.spam. to email |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
|
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
I suggested (again) grinding the sides on the tapered the paddle bit. That
may not do anything but squeek. If you were intent, (not that crazy) you may have to take a dremel tool, and grind a groove. Grind it on the face, parallel to the side you tapered, again on the side that first touches as the bit spins, so that the cutting chips curl around backward and break off. It has to give the leading edge of the chip encouragement to separate, or rip. It ain't rocket science. And the difference between failure and success can be very minor indeed. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
"bent" wrote in message ... I suggested (again) grinding the sides on the tapered the paddle bit. That may not do anything but squeek. If you were intent, (not that crazy) you may have to take a dremel tool, and grind a groove. Grind it on the face, parallel to the side you tapered, again on the side that first touches as the bit spins, so that the cutting chips curl around backward and break off. It has to give the leading edge of the chip encouragement to separate, or rip. It ain't rocket science. And the difference between failure and success can be very minor indeed. I use a spade bit, which I presume is the same, modified to the standard taper taper for making the holes in candlesticks. 7/8 taper 3/4. Quick grind job and a deburr was all it took. |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole -- UPDATE
After much consideration, I finally decided to try out the new RTV casting
stuff I have. I'm going two ways: 1. I made a negative mold with a bottom section of a cup upside down in a cylindrical hole. I'm going to pour RTV into this and use the rubber directly as a holder for the cups. 2. I took some Sculpey clay formed a base and then drove the bottom of the cup into it to form the master from which I'll pour RTV to make new molds. Assuming none of this works, I'll probably take a few used cups, cut them down, and glue them onto a plywood base which I'll use as holders for new cups. I'd love to have actually been able to drill a tapered hole into a block of wood but it's really infeasible and most of the other suggestions are sort of like taking a shotgun to a fly. Thanks for all the brainpower that went into this. Norm |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
Jay Pique wrote:
Norm Dresner wrote: | Why not epoxy some spare cups to a board, and then just drop | (stack) your working cups into the fixed ones? That's the simplest solution of all. But not the most elegant! I've done just a bit of googling and haven't found what I'm (you're) looking for. They make small tapered bits for pilot holes, and I've found some larger ones made for metal, but no dedicated ww'ing bits. I've got to figure that somebody makes them. Don't chair makers need bits like these? Also, if I do want to get ambitious, modifying a spade bit is also a good suggestion. Probably the least expensive as well. Now I want to find the real McCoy. JP Chairmakers bits http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/clifton_bits.htm someone else used to carry them, but I can't find my link nor did I see them at Lee Valley. If this bit isn't big enough then you'ld have to get or make a reamer. http://www.greenwoodworking.com/reamer.htm Joe |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole -- UPDATE
Seems you're going to an awful lot of trouble. You never did explain, what
is wrong with a strait hole? Itll hold the cups just fine. "Norm Dresner" wrote in message ... After much consideration, I finally decided to try out the new RTV casting stuff I have. I'm going two ways: 1. I made a negative mold with a bottom section of a cup upside down in a cylindrical hole. I'm going to pour RTV into this and use the rubber directly as a holder for the cups. 2. I took some Sculpey clay formed a base and then drove the bottom of the cup into it to form the master from which I'll pour RTV to make new molds. Assuming none of this works, I'll probably take a few used cups, cut them down, and glue them onto a plywood base which I'll use as holders for new cups. I'd love to have actually been able to drill a tapered hole into a block of wood but it's really infeasible and most of the other suggestions are sort of like taking a shotgun to a fly. Thanks for all the brainpower that went into this. Norm |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole -- UPDATE
CW wrote:
Seems you're going to an awful lot of trouble. You never did explain, what is wrong with a strait hole? Itll hold the cups just fine. "Norm Dresner" wrote in message ... After much consideration, I finally decided to try out the new RTV casting stuff I have. I'm going two ways: 1. I made a negative mold with a bottom section of a cup upside down in a cylindrical hole. I'm going to pour RTV into this and use the rubber directly as a holder for the cups. 2. I took some Sculpey clay formed a base and then drove the bottom of the cup into it to form the master from which I'll pour RTV to make new molds. Assuming none of this works, I'll probably take a few used cups, cut them down, and glue them onto a plywood base which I'll use as holders for new cups. I'd love to have actually been able to drill a tapered hole into a block of wood but it's really infeasible and most of the other suggestions are sort of like taking a shotgun to a fly. Thanks for all the brainpower that went into this. Norm The OP's last statement takes the cake! He claims that all the suggestions are like taking shotgun to a fly, yet he is talking about RTV and molds! A straight hole would have sufficed and he has been told that here, repeatedly... remind me never to respond to him if he asks another question about ANYTHING. Dave |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole -- UPDATE
David wrote:
The OP's last statement takes the cake! He claims that all the suggestions are like taking shotgun to a fly, yet he is talking about RTV and molds! A straight hole would have sufficed and he has been told that here, repeatedly... remind me never to respond to him if he asks another question about ANYTHING. Frankly, there were a fair number of suggestions that required a fair amount of effort and probably buying new tools. I love wood, but I also love being efficient. Making a holder for paint and glue cups...the thing ain't going to be looking good for long, so why go to the effort? The only reason I mentioned a wood frame, was to keep some wood in the project. Otherwise, I would take the foam box from a dozen eggs and pour in some plaster around the cups. That's as high tech as the thing needs to get. You know, a kindergarten project. R |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole -- UPDATE
"David" wrote in message
... | CW wrote: | | | The OP's last statement takes the cake! He claims that all the | suggestions are like taking shotgun to a fly, yet he is talking about | RTV and molds! A straight hole would have sufficed and he has been told | that here, repeatedly... remind me never to respond to him if he asks | another question about ANYTHING. | | Dave I've tried straight holes. Unless the block is almost as high as the plastic cup, it's worthless. That's why I want a tapered hole. Norm |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole -- UPDATE
Norm Dresner wrote:
"David" wrote in message ... | CW wrote: | | | The OP's last statement takes the cake! He claims that all the | suggestions are like taking shotgun to a fly, yet he is talking about | RTV and molds! A straight hole would have sufficed and he has been told | that here, repeatedly... remind me never to respond to him if he asks | another question about ANYTHING. | | Dave I've tried straight holes. Unless the block is almost as high as the plastic cup, it's worthless. That's why I want a tapered hole. Norm and yet you didn't respond on this thread when I suggested that you add a second layer with smaller holes for the bottom of the cups to sit in. that's going to solve your problem if you don't like having only a straight hole at the top. 2 straight holes of different diameters, spaced apart a bit will accomplish the same thing. I quit. Dave |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole -- UPDATE
Norm Dresner wrote:
2. Have you ever bought a new tool and then looked for a project to use it on? Norm I learned not to do that. dave |
#28
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
Subject
Time to find a buddy who has a machine shop and barter. What you want is very easy to make if you have access to a small metal working lathe and a "Bridgeport" (universal) milling machine. Many years ago I needed exactly what you are looking for to install tapered thru hulls in boats. My friend, also a boater, had a machine shop and came to the rescue. Lew |
#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
A universal milling machine is a type of horizontal mill, not a Bridgeport.
You're quite right though, a custom made cutter would be easy enough. Now, can he pay for it. "Lew Hodgett" wrote in message ink.net... Subject Time to find a buddy who has a machine shop and barter. What you want is very easy to make if you have access to a small metal working lathe and a "Bridgeport" (universal) milling machine. Many years ago I needed exactly what you are looking for to install tapered thru hulls in boats. My friend, also a boater, had a machine shop and came to the rescue. Lew |
#30
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
"Norm Dresner" wrote in message ... (SNIP) I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15 degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that would help much either. Suggestions welcome. 14 degree dovetail router bits are available from most router bit suppliers. 14 degrees is ~15 degrees ? Earl Creel |
#31
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
CW wrote:
A universal milling machine is a type of horizontal mill, not a Bridgeport. Right you are, guess I've been away from machine tools too long. You're quite right though, a custom made cutter would be easy enough. Now, can he pay for it. The operative word is barterG. Lew |
#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole -- UPDATE
"David" wrote in message
... | | The OP's last statement takes the cake! He claims that all the | suggestions are like taking shotgun to a fly, yet he is talking about | RTV and molds! A straight hole would have sufficed and he has been told | that here, repeatedly... remind me never to respond to him if he asks | another question about ANYTHING. | | Dave Step 1. Drill one hole (1-7/8") with a Forstner bit Step 2. Take one paint cup and cut it down to ~1/2" high Step 3. Glue to the bottom of the hole. This completes the mold Making the holders: Mix 1/2 oz each of 2 chemicals and pour into mold. Wait 4 hours and remove completed holder. This ain't rocket science. It's simple, The holders are perfectly shaped every time and because they're rubber they grip the cups. Of course, there's still one thing I didn't accomplish: Learning how to drill a tapered hole! LOL But we'll leave that for the next time I guess. Norm |
#33
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole -- UPDATE
On Mon, 13 Mar 2006 16:10:00 GMT, "Norm Dresner" wrote: After much consideration, I finally decided to try out the new RTV casting stuff I have. I'm going two ways: 1. I made a negative mold with a bottom section of a cup upside down in a cylindrical hole. I'm going to pour RTV into this and use the rubber directly as a holder for the cups. 2. I took some Sculpey clay formed a base and then drove the bottom of the cup into it to form the master from which I'll pour RTV to make new molds. Assuming none of this works, I'll probably take a few used cups, cut them down, and glue them onto a plywood base which I'll use as holders for new cups. I'd love to have actually been able to drill a tapered hole into a block of wood but it's really infeasible and most of the other suggestions are sort of like taking a shotgun to a fly. Thanks for all the brainpower that went into this. Norm If you really just have to overkill this and spend some money, go buy some chairmaker's spoon bits. They make tapered holes. They also cost about $60-$80 apiece . cdo |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole -- UPDATE
Norm Dresner wrote:
"David" wrote in message ... | | The OP's last statement takes the cake! He claims that all the | suggestions are like taking shotgun to a fly, yet he is talking about | RTV and molds! A straight hole would have sufficed and he has been told | that here, repeatedly... remind me never to respond to him if he asks | another question about ANYTHING. | | Dave Step 1. Drill one hole (1-7/8") with a Forstner bit Step 2. Take one paint cup and cut it down to ~1/2" high Step 3. Glue to the bottom of the hole. This completes the mold Making the holders: Mix 1/2 oz each of 2 chemicals and pour into mold. Wait 4 hours and remove completed holder. This ain't rocket science. It's simple, The holders are perfectly shaped every time and because they're rubber they grip the cups. Of course, there's still one thing I didn't accomplish: Learning how to drill a tapered hole! LOL But we'll leave that for the next time I guess. You were told several ways to cut a tapered hole. Whether you learned anything from this thread is another question. R |
#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Creating a tapered hole
On Sun, 12 Mar 2006 15:25:36 GMT, "Norm Dresner"
wrote: It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work I usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they use in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one or more of these almost every day. The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for the height. Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15 degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that would help much either. I know this is a little late, but who says the support has to completely surround the cup? 3-4 short 3/4" square pieces with 15 degree cuts on the ends glued around the cup. -Leuf |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
What to use to drill hole in steel door? | Home Repair | |||
Inner Diameter of Hole Too Large for Press Fit | Metalworking | |||
2" hole in a 3x2x1/8 rectangular tube | Metalworking | |||
Cosmetic Aluminum 'Hole Plugging' Help Needed | Metalworking | |||
How straight are drilled holes? Was Need to drill 1" deep .138 hole Thank you! | Metalworking |