I've discovered my blade goes about .005 out of parallel with the miter
groove as it is lowered from an ALMOST fully raised position. I can
align it dead on raised, then lower it and it's .005 out.

Looking for recommendations on where to set it. I could misalign by
about .002 in the other direction while fully raised that way when it
is lowered it comes within .003

I've read of other guys with this problem and even the replacement saw
had the same problem. BTW, I've already exchanged the saw once for a
Blade Trunion clearance issue issue. This saw isn't going back.

Or should I just leave it as is. I'm a weekend warrior basically doing
projects for the house and family.

I've posted a full review on my General International Contractor Saw
experience

http://home.wavecable.com/~m9er

Mike

"MJN" wrote in message
I've discovered my blade goes about .005 out of parallel with the miter
groove as it is lowered from an ALMOST fully raised position. I can
align it dead on raised, then lower it and it's .005 out.

I've had that happen on a table saw. When it does, I leave the blade
(properly aligned) at the height where I'd most use it. That, for most cases
is the carbide teeth just above 3/4" at the top of the arc of the blade.

Are you sure that's it, or are you measuring blade runout because
it's rotated some by the lowering?

With wood, I wouldn't be too concerned about 5 one-thousandths of
an inch!

"MJN" wrote in message
oups.com...
I've discovered my blade goes about .005 out of parallel with
the miter
groove as it is lowered from an ALMOST fully raised position.
I can
align it dead on raised, then lower it and it's .005 out.

Looking for recommendations on where to set it. I could
misalign by
about .002 in the other direction while fully raised that way
when it
is lowered it comes within .003

I've read of other guys with this problem and even the
replacement saw
had the same problem. BTW, I've already exchanged the saw once
for a
Blade Trunion clearance issue issue. This saw isn't going back.

Or should I just leave it as is. I'm a weekend warrior
basically doing
projects for the house and family.

I've posted a full review on my General International
Contractor Saw
experience

http://home.wavecable.com/~m9er

Mike

Pop wrote:
Are you sure that's it, or are you measuring blade runout because
it's rotated some by the lowering?

With wood, I wouldn't be too concerned about 5 one-thousandths of
an inch!

That's 2+ passes with a hand plane...some people are that picky.

Chris

"Pop" wrote in message
news:PEZMf.2294$SJ2.401@trndny01...
Are you sure that's it, or are you measuring blade runout because it's
rotated some by the lowering?

With wood, I wouldn't be too concerned about 5 one-thousandths of an inch!

Well while I agree that .005" is not much it can mean the difference in
whether you have to do something to remove saw tooth marks after the cut or
not. Its pretty borderline at that amount.

Looks like you want a much more expensive and capable saw to me.

Pop


"MJN" wrote in message
oups.com...
There is a little more........when tilted 45 degrees, the blade
goes
out by .012. I did the Tie bar check which I've read about in
these
forums and there appears to be some mis-alignment there. Using
a flat
pane of glass, I detect rocking on two opposite corners of the
glass.