Last week I received my Rikon 18" band saw equipped with a 5/8" blade. Who
knows what brand. Any way I got the saw up and running and was not
disappointed in the performance of the blade contrary to what some here have
witnessed with their blades. Not great but it had no drift and cut
relatively cleanly.

Yesterday I put my new 1" wide Timber wolf blade on the saw and it cut OK,
certainly not any smoother than the OEM blade but tracked straight also.
But there is this clicking noise as the back of the blade whacks the rear
bearing. Click, click, click... So I go around to the side and notice that
the blade moves forward and backward a good 1/16 inch with each revolution
of the blade. I know it is with each revolution because I see the weld spot
with each click. I used a white pencil to mark the high spot while the saw
was running.

I called Timberwolf and talked to Tom and he indicated that he has heard of
2 other instances of this happening with a Rikon band saw. In particular
the new model. Not to slam Rikon he asked me to take the Timberwolf blade
and cut it open at the weld and check to see if the back of the band is
straight. He indicated that a tape measure should be straight enough to
help indicate a bow in the back of the blade. My son noticed that the blade
bowed about 2' down from the weld. a 2' steel rule confirmed the bow to be
about 1/16", 2' up from the weld. I relayed this to Tom. I noticed that
the weld, before cutting the lower part of the band was off set about 1/16".
So I put the 3/4" Timberwolf blade on. Same problem. Wobble from front to
back. I installed the 1/2" blade. Same problem but not as bad. Installed
the 1/4" blade, same problem about as bad as the 1/2" blade. I reinstalled
the OEM blade and it tracks nice and straight by comparison.

I called Tom back and he is skeptical that there could be 4 bad blades in 4
different sizes and I totally agreed. He is going to do some checking in
the morning and send me out a new 1" blade.

I called Rikon and mentioned the problem. Rod at Rikon asked if the
original blade tracked OK, I said Yes. Then asked if the new blade tracked
OK. I said No. Then he asked of the new blade was a Timberwolf. Yes, I
said. He indicated that Timberwolf makes their blades a little long and
that they needed to initially be tensioned tighter than the indicator points
out before proceeding to the flutter test. Sooooo. I go out and adjust the
tension on the 3/4" blade to the tension that a 1-1/4 blade would take
trying to get the wobble out. Damn tight basically. That did not help at
all. So I put the OEM blade back on and again it tracks fine. Once again I
put the 3/4" Timber wolf blade on and it continues to wobble front to back.
So this time I take the white pencil and turn the saw on and gently let the
pencil mark the back of the blade and turn the saw off. In the exact spot
that my son saw the high spot on the 1" blade I see the pencil mark on the
3/4" blade. 2' up from the weld. I'm betting that the other 2 blades have
a high spot 2' up from the weld. BTY, I measured the length of the 1" blade
that I cut open. It was 141-15/16" long. It was short the width of the
blade I used to cut the blade open. It appears that this blade is exactly
the stated length, 142".

I was beginning to suspect the Rikon saw and Rod at Rikon indicated that he
would walk me through changing the camber of the wheels to fix the problem
if the extra tension did not work out. I am thinking that the Timberwolf
blades are the problem as 2 of them have the high spots 2' up from the
welds. I am guessing that their jig may be out of calibration and badly.

Tomorrow I plan to buy another blade, different brand, and see what happens.

Any thoughts?

"Leon" wrote in message

Tomorrow I plan to buy another blade, different brand, and see what
happens.

I've been having good luck with Lenox blades ... FWIW.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message

Tomorrow I plan to buy another blade, different brand, and see what
happens.

I've been having good luck with Lenox blades ... FWIW.

Buying Locally? I need 142".

I had the exact same problem with two Timberwolf blades I purchased last
year. No more Timberwolf blades will be installed on my Jet 18, they just
ain't worth the hassle. I've been using Woodcraft's house brand since and
have not had any problems, they cut fine and are half the price. --dave




"Leon" wrote in message
t...
Last week I received my Rikon 18" band saw equipped with a 5/8" blade.
Who knows what brand. Any way I got the saw up and running and was not
disappointed in the performance of the blade contrary to what some here
have witnessed with their blades. Not great but it had no drift and cut
relatively cleanly.

Yesterday I put my new 1" wide Timber wolf blade on the saw and it cut OK,
certainly not any smoother than the OEM blade but tracked straight also.
But there is this clicking noise as the back of the blade whacks the rear
bearing. Click, click, click... So I go around to the side and notice
that the blade moves forward and backward a good 1/16 inch with each
revolution of the blade. I know it is with each revolution because I see
the weld spot with each click. I used a white pencil to mark the high
spot while the saw was running.

I called Timberwolf and talked to Tom and he indicated that he has heard
of 2 other instances of this happening with a Rikon band saw. In
particular the new model. Not to slam Rikon he asked me to take the
Timberwolf blade and cut it open at the weld and check to see if the back
of the band is straight. He indicated that a tape measure should be
straight enough to help indicate a bow in the back of the blade. My son
noticed that the blade bowed about 2' down from the weld. a 2' steel
rule confirmed the bow to be about 1/16", 2' up from the weld. I relayed
this to Tom. I noticed that the weld, before cutting the lower part of
the band was off set about 1/16".
So I put the 3/4" Timberwolf blade on. Same problem. Wobble from front
to back. I installed the 1/2" blade. Same problem but not as bad.
Installed the 1/4" blade, same problem about as bad as the 1/2" blade. I
reinstalled the OEM blade and it tracks nice and straight by comparison.

I called Tom back and he is skeptical that there could be 4 bad blades in
4 different sizes and I totally agreed. He is going to do some checking
in the morning and send me out a new 1" blade.

I called Rikon and mentioned the problem. Rod at Rikon asked if the
original blade tracked OK, I said Yes. Then asked if the new blade
tracked OK. I said No. Then he asked of the new blade was a Timberwolf.
Yes, I said. He indicated that Timberwolf makes their blades a little
long and that they needed to initially be tensioned tighter than the
indicator points out before proceeding to the flutter test. Sooooo. I go
out and adjust the tension on the 3/4" blade to the tension that a 1-1/4
blade would take trying to get the wobble out. Damn tight basically.
That did not help at all. So I put the OEM blade back on and again it
tracks fine. Once again I put the 3/4" Timber wolf blade on and it
continues to wobble front to back. So this time I take the white pencil
and turn the saw on and gently let the pencil mark the back of the blade
and turn the saw off. In the exact spot that my son saw the high spot on
the 1" blade I see the pencil mark on the 3/4" blade. 2' up from the weld.
I'm betting that the other 2 blades have a high spot 2' up from the weld.
BTY, I measured the length of the 1" blade that I cut open. It was
141-15/16" long. It was short the width of the blade I used to cut the
blade open. It appears that this blade is exactly the stated length,
142".

I was beginning to suspect the Rikon saw and Rod at Rikon indicated that
he would walk me through changing the camber of the wheels to fix the
problem if the extra tension did not work out. I am thinking that the
Timberwolf blades are the problem as 2 of them have the high spots 2' up
from the welds. I am guessing that their jig may be out of calibration
and badly.

Tomorrow I plan to buy another blade, different brand, and see what
happens.

Any thoughts?

In article ,
"Leon" wrote:

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message

Tomorrow I plan to buy another blade, different brand, and see what
happens.

I've been having good luck with Lenox blades ... FWIW.

Buying Locally? I need 142".

All I can get locally, is a selection of Starrett band saw blades. I
bought a 1/4" one and it's fine by me...I have NO idea how Starrett
stacks up. It could even be a 'badge engineering' thing...branding for
sale.

On Fri, 10 Feb 2006 03:19:51 GMT, "Dave Jackson"
wrote:

I had the exact same problem with two Timberwolf blades I purchased last
year. No more Timberwolf blades will be installed on my Jet 18, they just
ain't worth the hassle. I've been using Woodcraft's house brand since and
have not had any problems, they cut fine and are half the price. --dave

For some reason woodcraft marks the timberwolf blades up by about
100%. Perhaps it has something to do with having a house brand.

Watching this with interest as I'm about to order my first "real" band
saw.


-Leuf

"Leon" wrote in message

Buying Locally? I need 142".

Unfortunately no, the old fashioned way ... on the phone. I wish Iturra
would hurry up and get that website up and running.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

I've always used Delta brand bandsaw blades available in local stores
and have not had any problems with them. I was tempted to try another
brand, ie Timberwolf, when I decided to do some major resawing. Some
years back there were several positive posts here about Timberwolf.

Another thought... "Name brand" products that have proven quality
often change the product to increase profit (at the expense of
quality). Unfortunately, that is so common today compared to 30-40
years ago.

I have the older Rikon 18" and had the same problem with a 1" blade. The blade
was longer then all the blades I have also. The clicking sound was there also. I
tried to file the weld joint to see if that helped and it didn't. No more
timber wolf blades for me either. All the other blades I have work great.


"Leon" wrote:

Last week I received my Rikon 18" band saw equipped with a 5/8" blade. Who
knows what brand. Any way I got the saw up and running and was not
disappointed in the performance of the blade contrary to what some here have
witnessed with their blades. Not great but it had no drift and cut
relatively cleanly.

Yesterday I put my new 1" wide Timber wolf blade on the saw and it cut OK,
certainly not any smoother than the OEM blade but tracked straight also.
But there is this clicking noise as the back of the blade whacks the rear
bearing. Click, click, click... So I go around to the side and notice that
the blade moves forward and backward a good 1/16 inch with each revolution
of the blade. I know it is with each revolution because I see the weld spot
with each click. I used a white pencil to mark the high spot while the saw
was running.

I called Timberwolf and talked to Tom and he indicated that he has heard of
2 other instances of this happening with a Rikon band saw. In particular
the new model. Not to slam Rikon he asked me to take the Timberwolf blade
and cut it open at the weld and check to see if the back of the band is
straight. He indicated that a tape measure should be straight enough to
help indicate a bow in the back of the blade. My son noticed that the blade
bowed about 2' down from the weld. a 2' steel rule confirmed the bow to be
about 1/16", 2' up from the weld. I relayed this to Tom. I noticed that
the weld, before cutting the lower part of the band was off set about 1/16".
So I put the 3/4" Timberwolf blade on. Same problem. Wobble from front to
back. I installed the 1/2" blade. Same problem but not as bad. Installed
the 1/4" blade, same problem about as bad as the 1/2" blade. I reinstalled
the OEM blade and it tracks nice and straight by comparison.

I called Tom back and he is skeptical that there could be 4 bad blades in 4
different sizes and I totally agreed. He is going to do some checking in
the morning and send me out a new 1" blade.

I called Rikon and mentioned the problem. Rod at Rikon asked if the
original blade tracked OK, I said Yes. Then asked if the new blade tracked
OK. I said No. Then he asked of the new blade was a Timberwolf. Yes, I
said. He indicated that Timberwolf makes their blades a little long and
that they needed to initially be tensioned tighter than the indicator points
out before proceeding to the flutter test. Sooooo. I go out and adjust the
tension on the 3/4" blade to the tension that a 1-1/4 blade would take
trying to get the wobble out. Damn tight basically. That did not help at
all. So I put the OEM blade back on and again it tracks fine. Once again I
put the 3/4" Timber wolf blade on and it continues to wobble front to back.
So this time I take the white pencil and turn the saw on and gently let the
pencil mark the back of the blade and turn the saw off. In the exact spot
that my son saw the high spot on the 1" blade I see the pencil mark on the
3/4" blade. 2' up from the weld. I'm betting that the other 2 blades have
a high spot 2' up from the weld. BTY, I measured the length of the 1" blade
that I cut open. It was 141-15/16" long. It was short the width of the
blade I used to cut the blade open. It appears that this blade is exactly
the stated length, 142".

I was beginning to suspect the Rikon saw and Rod at Rikon indicated that he
would walk me through changing the camber of the wheels to fix the problem
if the extra tension did not work out. I am thinking that the Timberwolf
blades are the problem as 2 of them have the high spots 2' up from the
welds. I am guessing that their jig may be out of calibration and badly.

Tomorrow I plan to buy another blade, different brand, and see what happens.

Any thoughts?

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

Unfortunately no, the old fashioned way ... on the phone. I wish Iturra
would hurry up and get that website up and running.


I see Woodcraft stocks a house brand in the length that I need. I think I
am going to pick one up and see how it does. If I get straight tracking I
am going to rule out the BS. and I'll call Inturra and order some. I
Googled the group and found that there are several complaints about
Timberwolf since last summer. I had to go back to 2003 to get good
responses. Since the 142" appears to be unique to the Rikon I suspect a
large batch was made up and they were not welded properly or aligned
correctly or perhaps they weld them up as ordered and all of mine were made
at the same time which would explain a lot.

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
I've always used Delta brand bandsaw blades available in local stores
and have not had any problems with them. I was tempted to try another
brand, ie Timberwolf, when I decided to do some major resawing. Some
years back there were several positive posts here about Timberwolf.

Another thought... "Name brand" products that have proven quality
often change the product to increase profit (at the expense of
quality). Unfortunately, that is so common today compared to 30-40
years ago.

I agree. Or the welder had an off day.

Leon wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message
...
Unfortunately no, the old fashioned way ... on the phone. I wish Iturra
would hurry up and get that website up and running.


I see Woodcraft stocks a house brand in the length that I need. I think I
am going to pick one up and see how it does. If I get straight tracking I
am going to rule out the BS. and I'll call Inturra and order some. I
Googled the group and found that there are several complaints about
Timberwolf since last summer. I had to go back to 2003 to get good
responses. Since the 142" appears to be unique to the Rikon I suspect a
large batch was made up and they were not welded properly or aligned
correctly or perhaps they weld them up as ordered and all of mine were made
at the same time which would explain a lot.

I've only one Timberwolf blade, which I bought a month or so ago (105"
6tpi 3/8") for my Grizzly G0555 bandsaw, and it works very well for me.
It tracks true, without any drift.

-jav

"Javier" wrote in message
...

I've only one Timberwolf blade, which I bought a month or so ago (105"
6tpi 3/8") for my Grizzly G0555 bandsaw, and it works very well for me.
It tracks true, without any drift.

Like every thing, mistakes can be made. I suspect that the 105" is a common
size that may have been in stock for some time. I have read a lot of
complaints about Timberwold blades bought in the last 6 months and the rep
did admit that they were having trouble with some of the 1" blades. His
first suggestion was to cut my blade open to see if the back was straight.
It was pretty straight but had a high spot in a similar location to the high
spot on my 3/4" blade. With my Rikon being relative new and using a unique
length my Timberwolf blades may have been made for my order and all made
incorrectly. I think I just got a bad batch. But I need to try another
brand to rule out the Band Saw although another brand blade does fine.

Leon wrote:
Last week I received my Rikon 18" band saw equipped with a 5/8" blade. Who

I called Timberwolf and talked to Tom and he indicated that he has heard of
2 other instances of this happening with a Rikon band saw. In particular
the new model.

I don't know if this is any help, but I have the Rikon 18" bandsaw
(although it might be the "older" one. At the time of purchase
[November 2005] I was told that Rikon was coming out with a new one
soon).

I use a 1/2 Timberwolf and it tracks great and I don't get a clicking
sound.

But I will fire it up again tonight without the dust collector on to
make sure. I have certainly never noticed a clicking, bad tracking or
any other defect.

And, the tension I put on it is very low.. definitely below the 1/2"
mark on the tensioning gauge. I want so say that it's tensioned around
the 1/4 mark, but I'm not sure.

I have timberwolf blades, haven's noted significant tracking problems
and love the way they actually cut and they seem to last. Have had
delta, olson blades which were just awful.
MBR

I have been using the Lennox baldes also, and have been very happy with
them. There is a guy here who welds them up for small guys like me, and
for the lumber mills. There was another post here recently about the
Timberwolf blades breaking. I asked him about them. He said that they
are more popular back east (I am in Oregon), and that they did have a
bit of a reputation for quality control problems. I have never used
one, and don't plan to.
robo hippy

"Leon" wrote in message

I suspect that the 105" is a common
size that may have been in stock for some time.

You're right ... 105" is the common length for Delta, Jet and Sears 14"
bandsaws with riser installed ... and maybe Grizzly?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

Swingman wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message

I suspect that the 105" is a common
size that may have been in stock for some time.

You're right ... 105" is the common length for Delta, Jet and Sears 14"
bandsaws with riser installed ... and maybe Grizzly?

It would appear to be the case. The G0555 with the riser installed uses
105" blades.

-jav

"Swingman" wrote in message
...



I learned today that Circle Saw makes BS blades. I ordered one this morning
and will pick it up after 3. 142" x 3/4" 3tpi, $18.99.

I do not know if it is any good but maybe it will indicate where my tracking
problem is.

"robo hippy" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have been using the Lennox baldes also, and have been very happy with
them. There is a guy here who welds them up for small guys like me, and
for the lumber mills. There was another post here recently about the
Timberwolf blades breaking. I asked him about them. He said that they
are more popular back east (I am in Oregon), and that they did have a
bit of a reputation for quality control problems. I have never used
one, and don't plan to.
robo hippy


I do not think it is a blade problem as much as, like you said, a quality
control problem when welding.

"bf" wrote in message
oups.com...

I don't know if this is any help, but I have the Rikon 18" bandsaw
(although it might be the "older" one. At the time of purchase
[November 2005] I was told that Rikon was coming out with a new one
soon).

I believe you have the 10-240 model. the new model came out in late January
and is now the 10-345.

I use a 1/2 Timberwolf and it tracks great and I don't get a clicking
sound.

The clicking I hear is the back of the blade hitting the thrus bearing.


But I will fire it up again tonight without the dust collector on to
make sure. I have certainly never noticed a clicking, bad tracking or
any other defect.

I am sure your blade is doing fine. It is obvious, autibly and visibly.
I do not think Timberwolf is a bad blade although I have never use them
before. I think in this instance it is a QC problem.


And, the tension I put on it is very low.. definitely below the 1/2"
mark on the tensioning gauge. I want so say that it's tensioned around
the 1/4 mark, but I'm not sure.

My blades look like they flutter at the tight setting.

"Leon" wrote in message
. com...

"bf" wrote in message
oups.com...

I don't know if this is any help, but I have the Rikon 18" bandsaw
(although it might be the "older" one. At the time of purchase
[November 2005] I was told that Rikon was coming out with a new one
soon).

I believe you have the 10-240 model. the new model came out in late
January and is now the 10-345.

I use a 1/2 Timberwolf and it tracks great and I don't get a clicking
sound.

The clicking I hear is the back of the blade hitting the thrus bearing.


But I will fire it up again tonight without the dust collector on to
make sure. I have certainly never noticed a clicking, bad tracking or
any other defect.

I am sure your blade is doing fine. It is obvious, autibly and visibly.
I do not think Timberwolf is a bad blade although I have never use them
before. I think in this instance it is a QC problem.


And, the tension I put on it is very low.. definitely below the 1/2"
mark on the tensioning gauge. I want so say that it's tensioned around
the 1/4 mark, but I'm not sure.

My blades look like they flutter at the tight setting.

Leon-
I've got the same flutter problem with my 1" TW blade on my Rikon though it
doesn't click. It does cut quite well. The original blade had a kink in it
that I was unable to get out....my fault in transporting the saw.

How far forward can you adjust the side thrust bearings on the new model? I
can only get about 9/16" coverage before the bearing block hits the guard.
This leaves nearly 1/4" of blade behind the gullet not supported by the
bearings.

Which model mobile base did you get and from who(m)?

Gary

On 10 Feb 2006 08:44:11 -0800, "gadgetman"
wrote:

I have timberwolf blades, haven's noted significant tracking problems
and love the way they actually cut and they seem to last. Have had
delta, olson blades which were just awful.
MBR
==============
After using my "little" Sears `12 in bandsaw for almost 40 years (with
Timberwolf blades exclusively for at least the last 20 years ..) I
finally though it was about timne to get a "little" better Bandsaw...

I do very little resawing (naturally I don't ..who does with a 12 in
craftsman) and really do not wish to buy a 14 inched and add a
riser...So I was thinking about The Jets and the Rikons... NOW you
guys tell me I will also have (or maybe have ) problems with the brand
of Blades I have been using for a long long time...

DUH... back to the drawing boards I guess...

Bob G.

hello,

I have a 1" timberwolf on my HF raised BS and am more than happy with it!

cyrille

"GeeDubb" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
. com...

"bf" wrote in message
oups.com...

I don't know if this is any help, but I have the Rikon 18" bandsaw
(although it might be the "older" one. At the time of purchase
[November 2005] I was told that Rikon was coming out with a new one
soon).

I believe you have the 10-240 model. the new model came out in late
January and is now the 10-345.

I use a 1/2 Timberwolf and it tracks great and I don't get a clicking
sound.

The clicking I hear is the back of the blade hitting the thrus bearing.


But I will fire it up again tonight without the dust collector on to
make sure. I have certainly never noticed a clicking, bad tracking or
any other defect.

I am sure your blade is doing fine. It is obvious, autibly and visibly.
I do not think Timberwolf is a bad blade although I have never use them
before. I think in this instance it is a QC problem.


And, the tension I put on it is very low.. definitely below the 1/2"
mark on the tensioning gauge. I want so say that it's tensioned around
the 1/4 mark, but I'm not sure.

My blades look like they flutter at the tight setting.

Leon-
I've got the same flutter problem with my 1" TW blade on my Rikon though
it doesn't click. It does cut quite well. The original blade had a kink
in it that I was unable to get out....my fault in transporting the saw.

How far forward can you adjust the side thrust bearings on the new model?
I can only get about 9/16" coverage before the bearing block hits the
guard. This leaves nearly 1/4" of blade behind the gullet not supported by
the bearings.

Which model mobile base did you get and from who(m)?

Gary

I get my Timberwolf blades thru a local company that buys bulk blade stock
from them and welds them up to any size. Love the blades altho I have had
one problem with a blade breaking which had nothing to do with Timberwolf
but the company I bought it from. Of course they replaced it but not the
kind of sound I enjoy coming out of my saw unexpectedly. For a second I
thought one of my ex-wives had finally taken a shot at me. BTW, Timberwolf
does provide special tensioning instructions as they do run under less
tension than a normal blade.

"robo hippy" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have been using the Lennox baldes also, and have been very happy with
them. There is a guy here who welds them up for small guys like me, and
for the lumber mills. There was another post here recently about the
Timberwolf blades breaking. I asked him about them. He said that they
are more popular back east (I am in Oregon), and that they did have a
bit of a reputation for quality control problems. I have never used
one, and don't plan to.
robo hippy

"Bob G." wrote in message
...
After using my "little" Sears `12 in bandsaw for almost 40 years (with
Timberwolf blades exclusively for at least the last 20 years ..) I
finally though it was about timne to get a "little" better Bandsaw...

LOL. Well my Craftsman 12" BS was only 23 years old. I did in deed do some
slow resawing with it, 5" Maple. Did I say slow?

I do very little resawing (naturally I don't ..who does with a 12 in
craftsman) and really do not wish to buy a 14 inched and add a
riser...So I was thinking about The Jets and the Rikons...


That was my idealogy. I refuse to believe that the Timberwolf blades are
bad. Have you ever opened up a bag of peanuts and a few in the bag are just
rottin? I am thinking a bad batch of which I got 4.
Anyway I had a new blade made up today locally and I picked it up today. No
wobble. So in this case my problem with blade wobble seems to point towards
these 4 Timberwold blades. Timberwolf is sending me a new 1" blade and I am
betting it will be just fine.

NOW you
guys tell me I will also have (or maybe have ) problems with the brand
of Blades I have been using for a long long time...

I think it is an unfortunate fluke.

Let me tell you that I nave been dealing with Rikon and Timberwolf and both
parties are genuinely interested in solving the problem. The fact that
another, 3rd brand blade tracks well on the Rikon BS is a relief to me.
That said Rod with Rikon seems eager to help with saw adjustments if they
are needed. I did not want to do any adjustments until I tried the 3rd
brand blade.

"GeeDubb" wrote in message
...
Leon-
I've got the same flutter problem with my 1" TW blade on my Rikon though
it doesn't click. It does cut quite well. The original blade had a kink
in it that I was unable to get out....my fault in transporting the saw.


How far forward can you adjust the side thrust bearings on the new model?
I can only get about 9/16" coverage before the bearing block hits the
guard. This leaves nearly 1/4" of blade behind the gullet not supported by
the bearings.

On a 1" blade I can move the side bearings up past the bottom of the gullet.
Too far actually, so the forward travel is plenty. The bearings are lower
than the front bottom of the guard. The guard is cut higher at the back. I
would gladly supply you with a picture if you like.


Which model mobile base did you get and from who(m)?

I bought the Rockler universal base that you supply the wood to complete. I
think it is on sale right now for about $37.

On Fri, 10 Feb 2006 14:54:30 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


"Swingman" wrote in message
...

Unfortunately no, the old fashioned way ... on the phone. I wish Iturra
would hurry up and get that website up and running.


I see Woodcraft stocks a house brand in the length that I need. I think I
am going to pick one up and see how it does. If I get straight tracking I
am going to rule out the BS. and I'll call Inturra and order some. snip
Leon, at the local Woodcraft store (Raleigh, NC) their 'own' brand is
actually Timberwolf - I don't know if this is universally true.

Tom

"TWS" wrote in message
...


Leon, at the local Woodcraft store (Raleigh, NC) their 'own' brand is
actually Timberwolf - I don't know if this is universally true.



Thanks for the heads up. On the on line site the blades look different
than the Timberwolf blades and I bought their house brand locally some years
ago and they too looked different. Anyway the local store did not have any
house brand in stock. They referred me to another local shop make me a
blade today and fortunately for me it tracks fine.

"Bruce Barnett" wrote in message

According to the Iturra catalog, (and perhaps someone can confirm this)
most dealers cannot use the name "Timberwolf" for legal
reasons. I'm not certain because "Timberwolf" isn't mentioned by name.
Iturra sells the blades, and calls them somthing else as well.

It's very confusing to me, specially when someone says Timberwolf
blades suck, and the PS Wood from Woodcraft are great.

LOL ... the one thing American public education system is really good at
fostering is gullibility.

It's all about marketing. After all, Eggland's Best eggs are _perceived_ by
many to be worth a dollar +/- more a dozen than any other commercially
produced egg because of the packaging and stamp.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

I had the same problem about 8 or 9 years ago. I bought a couple of the 3/4
resaw blades and they had bad welds then, they sent replacements and they
were the same. The blades cut fast, but the surface is not nearly as good
as "The Woodslicer" from Highland Hardware - about $30 each. Anytime I have
serious work and need the best finish, I use a woodslicer, Currently my
last Timberwolf is on the saw for cutting firewood to length for my
woodstove, and is great for getting turning stock ready for the lathe.

HTH,
Mike

I just found (Google) the old thread about this. It is dated Nov 8, 1998.

I used to post here a a fair amount, now I just lurk mostly.


Mike

Doh!

Should have looked on the next page....

I wrote bandsaw blade 'thesis' on Jan 8, 1999 and it addresses the
problems with the Suffolk blades.

not sure if this link will work.. but here it is anyhow.

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.w...f 99d0b3d845a

"Leon" wrote in message
. com...

"GeeDubb" wrote in message
...
Leon-
I've got the same flutter problem with my 1" TW blade on my Rikon though
it doesn't click. It does cut quite well. The original blade had a kink
in it that I was unable to get out....my fault in transporting the saw.


How far forward can you adjust the side thrust bearings on the new model?
I can only get about 9/16" coverage before the bearing block hits the
guard. This leaves nearly 1/4" of blade behind the gullet not supported
by the bearings.

On a 1" blade I can move the side bearings up past the bottom of the
gullet. Too far actually, so the forward travel is plenty. The bearings
are lower than the front bottom of the guard. The guard is cut higher at
the back. I would gladly supply you with a picture if you like.


Which model mobile base did you get and from who(m)?

I bought the Rockler universal base that you supply the wood to complete.
I think it is on sale right now for about $37.

Thanks Leon. I've got a Rockler base on another tool and don't care for it
much. The wheel surfaces are too hard and slide on my epoxied floor too
easily.

If you could send me a photo of the bearing/guide set up I'd appreciate it.
I'd ask you to post it on ABPW but Qwest drops them quickly or doesn't post
them at all most of the time. (Usenet Replayer is my friend!)

Gary (grwilliams at qwest dot net)

Please keep us informed.
I have used Timberwolf blades for years on my 18" Jet bandsaw
and never have had a problem.
Dave

Leon wrote:
"bf" wrote in message
oups.com...

I don't know if this is any help, but I have the Rikon 18" bandsaw
(although it might be the "older" one. At the time of purchase
[November 2005] I was told that Rikon was coming out with a new one
soon).

I believe you have the 10-240 model. the new model came out in late January
and is now the 10-345.

I use a 1/2 Timberwolf and it tracks great and I don't get a clicking
sound.

The clicking I hear is the back of the blade hitting the thrus bearing.


ok.. I'm just trying to help here.. I did fire mine up again, and there
was no clicking.
I don't mean to state the obvious.. but can you back off on the thrust
bearing?
I also didn't mean to say that I didn't believe you were having a
problem.. I was just trying to share my experience. Let us know how it
works out.

"bf" wrote in message
oups.com...

ok.. I'm just trying to help here.. I did fire mine up again, and there
was no clicking.
I don't mean to state the obvious.. but can you back off on the thrust
bearing?
I also didn't mean to say that I didn't believe you were having a
problem.. I was just trying to share my experience. Let us know how it
works out.

Yes I can back off on the thrust bearing however the bearing becomes
ineffective then. Basically the blade simply flexes and does not touch the
bearing. The clicking is coming from the blade back not being flat. It
clicks as it hits the bearing with each revolution. 2 other "Cheap" brand
blades do not have this problem.