I'm using a shelving jig, like the one in the link below, to drill holes for
some adjustable shelves.
However, I'm getting some tearout on almost all the holes.

I'm using solid WOak this time, but, I've had similar issues in the past
drilling these into ROak ply.

The self-centering bit contains a 1/4" spur point bit.

Has anyone else experienced this?
If so, how have you reduced or eliminated it.

Many ThankX,
Ron

The jig:
http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/32991b-lg.jpg

Drill the holes through masking tape stuck to the wood?

Ron wrote:
I'm using a shelving jig, like the one in the link below, to drill holes for
some adjustable shelves.
However, I'm getting some tearout on almost all the holes.

I'm using solid WOak this time, but, I've had similar issues in the past
drilling these into ROak ply.

The self-centering bit contains a 1/4" spur point bit.

Has anyone else experienced this?
If so, how have you reduced or eliminated it.

Many ThankX,
Ron

The jig:
http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/32991b-lg.jpg

Ron (in ) said:

| I'm using a shelving jig, like the one in the link below, to drill
| holes for some adjustable shelves.
| However, I'm getting some tearout on almost all the holes.

| Has anyone else experienced this?
| If so, how have you reduced or eliminated it.

1/4" spiral upcut carbide bit in a plunge router (first choice); and
1/4" carbide lipped brad point bit in a DP (second choice)

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 21:36:57 -0500, "Ron"
wrote:

I'm using a shelving jig, like the one in the link below, to drill holes for
some adjustable shelves.
However, I'm getting some tearout on almost all the holes.

Have you checked to see if the bit is sharp? I can pretty much
guarantee that it's not.

I'm using a shelving jig, like the one in the link below, to drill holes
for
some adjustable shelves.
However, I'm getting some tearout on almost all the holes.

Have you checked to see if the bit is sharp? I can pretty much
guarantee that it's not.

Brand new.

Just bought the 1/4" bit since I purchased a 5mm one my mistake a while ago,
but, got the same results with it.

| Has anyone else experienced this?
| If so, how have you reduced or eliminated it.

1/4" spiral upcut carbide bit in a plunge router (first choice); and
1/4" carbide lipped brad point bit in a DP (second choice)

I'll try swapping the bit in the jig with a new brad point bit I have.
Just may need to find an extra hand first, as it's spring loaded.

I'll try some tape as well..

ThankX All,
Ron

Ron (in ) said:

||| Has anyone else experienced this?
||| If so, how have you reduced or eliminated it.
||
|| 1/4" spiral upcut carbide bit in a plunge router (first choice);
|| and 1/4" carbide lipped brad point bit in a DP (second choice)
|
| I'll try swapping the bit in the jig with a new brad point bit I
| have. Just may need to find an extra hand first, as it's spring
| loaded.
|
| I'll try some tape as well..

Ron...

Brad points come in flavors and _lipped_ brad point bits are noticably
better at preventing tear out because the sharp "lip" slices the wood
fibers at the circumference of the hole before the stock-removing
portion even touches the wood. The result is a particularly
clean-edged hole.

See
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42240
for a look at my favorites. I've been using a set of these for about
two years and think they're great.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto