I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why, with
the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my router
table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a straight
bit. Right?

FoggyTown

foggytown wrote:
I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why,
with the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my
router table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a
straight bit. Right?

FoggyTown

Right

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

foggytown wrote:
I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why, with
the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my router
table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a straight
bit. Right?

FoggyTown

Keep in mind that the rotation of the router bit will try to push the
material sideways. Either way is a good way to lose a finger though. I
prefer the tablesaw. The resistance is directly against you instead of
sideways. AND, your router may not be comfortable making the cuts in
one pass. You may have to take a little at a time to complete your
cuts. OH! and tear-out! I'd like to see a comparison between box joints
that were cut on a TS vs Router table.

Tom in KY, A tablesaw would just be so much easier, wouldn't it?

You may want to make or buy a jig like they use on ROUTER WORKSHOP. Makes
life a whole lot simpler.

"foggytown" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why, with
the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my router
table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a straight
bit. Right?

FoggyTown

Yep. Works great.

"foggytown" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why, with
the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my router
table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a straight
bit. Right?

FoggyTown

"foggytown" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why, with
the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my router
table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a straight
bit. Right?

FoggyTown


I built a micro=adjustable jig out of Shopsmith, and it works great!
Although, if you are using plywood, it will tear out = hardwood is not
problem..joints are tight, fitting, and look like they were handcut...

http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--

Middle-schoolers used it with great success.

If you build your own, remember that the height of the straddle fence should
be no more than the thickness of the thinnest wood you'll work on it. Other
than that, piece of cake, and "micro" adjustments are made with the tap of a
hammer. Fence toward bit makes looser, fence away makes tighter.

"Tom Woodman" wrote in message
...
You may want to make or buy a jig like they use on ROUTER WORKSHOP.
Makes life a whole lot simpler.

"foggytown" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why, with
the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my router
table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a straight
bit. Right?

FoggyTown

You may find that the spiral upcut bits help (but not eliminate) tearout.
They certainly perform better than 1 or 2 flute straight bits.

Something like

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...168,46171&ap=1


cheers ...

brian

foggytown wrote:
I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why, with
the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my router
table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a straight
bit. Right?

FoggyTown

Spiral bits make a big difference. They significantly reduce tear-out, and I
highly recommend that you use one. Another thing that you should do is to
make a fresh backer board, so your first cut puts a hole in it exactly the
size of your router bit cut. With this backer board in place, all box joint
cuts with that router bit set at that height will have minimum tear-out. If
you change any settings, make a new backer board. The backer board holds the
wood fibers in place around the edge of the cut instead of letting the
router bit tear them out.

--
Charley


"Brian Hoyt" wrote in message
...
You may find that the spiral upcut bits help (but not eliminate) tearout.
They certainly perform better than 1 or 2 flute straight bits.

Something like

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...168,46171&ap=1


cheers ...

brian

foggytown wrote:
I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why, with
the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my router
table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a straight
bit. Right?

FoggyTown